Can't Get Body Work Straight? - Try Feather Fill Polyester Primer 

Thanks for the support Jim - can beat the old long board from Hutchins. Have a good weekend :)

Great video 👍

Thanks Ron - feel free to ask any ?s no matter the video or topic - I answer 1-2 times a day :)

Thanks 👍 have a good labor day w.e.

Prices keep going up and up :)

You have a good labor day to Jim :)

Thanks PSG - have a good week :)

Thanks Erich - that's where it's from - working on hats, shirts, stickers, mixing boards, etc. Glad you like the video and always good to hear from you my friend :)

Thanks, you too my friend :)

Amen

Thanks for the sub FMC - glad you liked it and good luck on your project - super cool looking car btw - just looked it up - very cool 👍

You're welcome - glad it was on time :)

I appreciate the support AJ - I'll have to visit the UK one day - my grand parents were from Belgium and came over after WWII - opened a bar in Detroit. Must have been good times back then - 40's-60's

I appreciate the support Michael - Happy New Year 🎉

@@LakesideAutobody As a late starter in the panel repair and paint industry your videos have been both informative and enjoyable to watch. A happy new year to you too.

That's great to hear - I appreciate your support. Hope I can continue to help :)

You're welcome Michael - you're right - this stuff can really help at times :)

Thanks UPK - I ordered one of your hats but hit the order button 3 times 'cause I didn't think it was registering or going through. I only need one - hope the order got to your website - Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody hey Jerry I didn’t see the email of your purchase but I’ll check it to make sure it went through…I appreciate you Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody the order didn’t go through

@@UndergroundPaintKing I'll try it again tomorrow :)

That's a good suggestion. I'll put that on the list. For now though, try using the longest board you have with a firm backing pad - it will tell the truth every time.

You're welcome Bill :)

Good tips my friend :)

Love your Mustang!

You're welcome :)

Been working on it for long enough... Have a good labor day weekend and hope everything goes well for you this year Snake Doc :)

@@LakesideAutobody you too bud!

I think you'll really like this stuff. Let me know what you really think about it after using it. Thanks the for the kind words too Tyler :)

@@LakesideAutobody wow, I’m already done blocking out my first 3 wet coats and I must say I’m very impressed. Found a couple spots I can hit with icing, and another 3 wet coats should get it ready for 2k primer without a problem!

@@tylerfraker7716 Glad you like it. For me at a younger age, it was a life saver. When I couldn't get something straight, I would bury it with feather fill, go to lunch, come back and block sand. Things would be better. Sounds like a hack but... that's what helped me get to where I am now. Still a challenge but I've got a few more tricks now :)

I was using a 1.8mm tip and thinned it with lacquer thinner - no worries at all using lacquer thinner.

805ROADKING- You can also use Acetone to thin most ANY Polyester Primer. Sometimes it's a little cheaper than even economy thinners but either way...And DON'T forget to stir the hell out of the poly primer when you open it, and IF possible? Even take it to a paint store or HD and put it on the paint shaker for awhile providing you don't have one. Poly primers settle probably the most out of most ANY primers and paints I have come across in my 40 plus years of seeing it used, and using it personally in over my 30 years with auto restoration. Also? The actual "Feather Fill" product is NOT warm temp/hot weather friendly. IF you have to use in such, and need to prime alot? Be sure you use quart at a time and within 20-30 minutes QUICKLY (IF NOT considerably sooner) and then CLEAN YOUR GUN before mixing more as it WILL/CAN harden right there in your primer gun and ruin it. These days considering Polyester Primers myself? I prefer to sway guys away from the Feather Fill with the just the tube of liquid hardener, and highly recommend "Evercoat's SUPER BUILD high building Polyester Primer" as it is a 4 to 1 mix ratio, (like standard POLYURETHANE high build primers) as it has a 1 to 2 hour pot life, you can also mix way smaller (than a pint) amounts for spot priming and KNOW your primer WILL cure successful (and NOT have to worry about it hardening in your gun either, OR IF you add just a drop of hardener TOO much!) And yeah, SUPER BUILD is way more warm weather AND USER FRIENDLY and? I think it sands way easier than Feather Fill, and it's only like 10 dollars more a gallon, granted you gotta buy the quart of liquid hardener. LOTTA experience with these products, Lol. BEST of luck!

@@jamescon55 Thanks for the input Jim - good info :)

Absolutely. That seems to be debated a lot online. Thanks for the suggestion Borna :)

I'm going to do a video on that very soon :)

Different body shops have their own preferences about which grades of sandpaper they like to use so eventually you will develop your own style of repair.

That stuff is real good too. If you use the old style, it's good to keep it real thin - just for very small low spots or imperfections :)

Thanks Hobby A. Have a great weekend :)

Wow 3.0 tip - that's what you need too :)

Good to hear you're painting it soon - let me know how it turns out Gmguy.

Excellent idea... do you mean for say, filler hardening, primer, paint, etc ?

I figured since you’re in Michigan you have a few tips 😀

So glad you can use them - never can have enough weapons when it comes to getting panels straight :)

It really did help me out back in the 80's 'cause my filler work was subpar for sure. It allowed me to make it by though and survive! Eventually I used less and less to the point of not needing it that often anymore. It's good to know it's there though - just in case :)

Yes.... you don't want that stuff sitting in your gun - tough to clean up. Old fashioned putty is not bad if you use it the way it was intended - very lightly.

Not even.

Yes you can put spot putty or filler over the primer. You can put it on first - then block sand or block sand then fill in any low areas and pits - what ever you prefer. You can seal the primer after it dries - basically that means that if you can sand the primer then you can seal it. To be safe though follow the back of the can or the technical data sheet on the product you are using. Feel free to ask any other ?s you have and have a good week end :)

@@LakesideAutobody Appreciating all of your help so so much, you have no idea. I left a question on your mixing ratios also, i got confused on the hardner part. You have a great weekend as well Sir, you have become a huge help and asset to me.

@@brianb5779 Take a quick look at this video - if you have any more ?s just ask - Jerry ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cua8Y7hXzak.html

@@LakesideAutobody Got it,,, finally...always was so confusing till both your videos, so happy now. Ill be sharing this w others for sure

Thanks ✌

You're fine with the Evercoat light weight filler - I've used that before and it works just fine - not too pricey either. I spend around $20 on a gallon of filler - 'least I try to keep it in that range. Good idea for a video - thanks - needs to be done :)

You're right about that :)

ru-vid.com/group/PLOP9eoG14-I_dTwNiWP5XJCitguFJzZEZ

@@LakesideAutobody I believe I could, at the very least, double your production and eliminate 1/3 of your waste in a one-day tutorial. You simply don't have 55 years of experience...yet.... Wait 'til you find out how brittle feather fill gets. I did with come-backs in the '70s when it first came out.

@@busmirror Feather fill doesn't crack - I've been using it since 1984 and never seen it crack once - never. Maybe you put it on too thick, didn't prepare the surface correct or thinned it with the wrong stuff.

Good tip Von - I appreciate the support :)

Interesting - thanks for that information Russ. Have a good week :)

I used a sprayable Bondo called Upol. Used it to fix hail damage on a Mustang roof. It was a Godsend.

Yes you can paint over Evercoat SB primer surfacer. See info under description: evercoat.com/images/ePIM/original/TDS_100710_FEATHER-FILL-G2-3.2021-US-ENG.pdf

I use Auto Body Master wax and grease remover. I keep the wax and grease remover in an empty windex spray bottle and mist the rag with it - basically to pick up dust and clean it better than the air nozzle. It doesn't affect the lacquer primer. I think you're right with the acetone - that would probably "melt" it.

why are you cleaning with acetone ? I have never heard of anyone do that.

1.8mm - you can thin feather fill w/ acetone or lacquer thinner. We actually used thinner all the time at a shop I worked at - works just fine. Try a 1.8mm tip w/ a gravity fed gun :)

My honest opinion on that is both of those methods will last the same amount of time. I'm sure folks will disagree with that but that's been my experience. Now... if you can seal the back side so no moisture ever penetrates the repair or allow for drainage so the panel stays dry on the inside - it can last many years. Sealed, it will last as long as a new panel.

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks buddy.

Your correct. That red spot filler is garbage. It should never be used period.

Thanks Edmond, it does take some time and it can be frustrating around concave shapes on wheel wells for sure :)

Yes you can do that. If the primer is in good condition and he prepared the surface correctly, you'll be fine. Guys used to use feather fill in that exact way all the time where I worked and never had a problem. FF is essentially body filler that you can sprayed so in a sense, you are just putting 2K putty like Evercoat over primer which is normal.

@@LakesideAutobody Awesome and thanks! Yeah he definitely prepped the surface before he applied the primer. It sounds like it really builds up really good so enough material is there for blocking. I am not sure if I will use the Evercoat Superbuild or the Evercoat G2. But it sounds like I cannot go wrong with either of those. Thanks again!

@@VegasRT500 You're right - you can't go wrong with either. You're welcome :)

You can paint over feather fill but it's usually primed again with regular primer or like you said 2K then finish sanded and painted. Good ? Steve - have a good week my friend :)

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry appreciate the advise

It's harder than primer but not that bad really. It sands about the same as filler. Nothing miserable though for sure :)

Good ? - there's no difference. Have a good weekend Ann :)

Red works best with fiberglass fillers. Easier to tell when you have it properly mixed.

Thanks Okie-Tom - good info - have a good weekend :)

Absolutely - don't listen to any other info. Remember that stuff came out in the early eighty's or maybe even earlier. There was no epoxy primer back then. We put it straight over metal, filler, paint, lacquer primer, old primer, etc and never had issues. Just make sure the surface is prepared correctly and your good to go :)

Thanks Jerry appreciate your wisdom keep up the great videos. I will be telling all the young cats about your channel. They always ask me . How I learn . I tell them beer bbq and a love for painting your own car 😌🤘

Yes. Basically you use feather fill if your body work is a little rough - maybe you need some extra thickness to help straighten it out. Otherwise you use regular primer surfacer.

Thank you Sir

@@theroughblueram114thgen5 👍💯

Yes that is a real bummer. Try wetting a rag with wax and grease remover when you think you have it perfect. Then look right down the side of the vehicle while it's still shiny/wet that will give you a good idea if you have it or not :)

Here's a complete video on just your final coat of primer and finish sanding - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Phd8cvKmapo.html Nice to hear from you Petar :)

No - it's just the old red lacquer type putty - drys fast, convenient, works well, cheap, fast, sands easy. Just can't use a ton of it :)

@@LakesideAutobody true. Thats wby I ask

You can spray polyester primer over bare metal, or un-primed filler. Polyester primer came out long before epoxy primer and that's how it was done (20th century). If you do decide to put it over epoxy primer though, you don't have to sand it.

@@LakesideAutobody You're a choice of Polly evercoat featherfill or high build DTM

@@Supanova70 I use the Evercoat Gray Feather Fill G2 Primer Surfacer - I'm sure all of the polyester primers are very similar though so what ever you have or can get will work just fine :)

Yes it does, it is in a small tube which is clear in color like fiberglass resin hardner.

There is also the super build. It comes with a bottle of hardener at a 4:1 mix. Also sprays one color and sands another so a built in guide coat much like z-chrome.

Yes

Feather Fill is super thick primer surfacer - it's a polyester primer. It's like spraying a thin layer of filler over your body work for extra material to black sand :)

Actually this truck was a real beater but ran great so I decided to fix it up to use as a car hauler. In between other work I'll make a video using this truck - one day it'll be all done - going with the original work truck rims/center caps and beauty rings. Should look real tough when finished - you'll see it done soon :)

There were a lot of guys I worked with couldn't get bodywork straight - it's not easy. Anyone who works in a high volume body shop would agree. Most stay away from serious damage like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xbzGX4hW9qo.html

Ok

If you are trying to come up with an easy way to price stuff just figure what your time is worth. For example if you don't want to work for less than say 20/hr calc. how many hours it will take you to do this job start to finish. Say it takes 22 hours then that would be 440 for labor plus paint and materials. Paint and materials can be right around 250 for this job (easy) - so you're right in the ball park for a DIY guy. Body shops might be in the 1500 range - but it varies greatly from place to place - hope that helps a bit. You don't want to be working for nothing that's for sure - Jerry

Thanks for the great videos and the advice Jerry. Love the video with the mustang that looked like an accordion.

@@motoworks7115 You're welcome - glad you like the videos - hope to have many more - I like making them :)

You could do that if you wanted to spend the money. There is always the risk too of it rusting faster than the original because lets face it you can never coat the inside, the welds, or the seams like the factory does. Thanks for the suggestion though Eric - have a good weekend.

Work on larger dents and serious damage ✌