So at 23:35 you increase the layer time for max fan speed threshold, but that isn't used as a minimal layer time unless you also check the "Slow printing down for better layer cooling". Without that checked if just changes the part fan speed based on estimated layer time, but since both min and max fan speed are at 100%, it doesn't have any effect at all.
I bought this about a month ago for my X1C from 3DHub. I’ve seen zero difference in print quality over the factory unit. $50CAD in the trash. Won’t be buying one for my P1S.
Just got this one after your vid. Overhangs are important for me without support, so I'm highly expectant. Just with they included the manual in the box instead of a flash drive
@@3dlootlab yeah, I mainly print with sunlu pla+ with occasional petg, tpu and asa. I think there were some improvements already, because a model printed with just a few artifacts and with very limited support that wouldn't work normally in my experience
@@SneakyJoeRu Thats Great! The second wiper that came with the duct has broken for me. Its not robust. Heres a quick tip, take the stock wiper, heat it up and physically squish it to size. Its working like a charm now!
To improve overhangs, particularly at small layer heights (0.08mm), increase z hop. This fixed my overhangs breaking, where previously things like the torture toaster at 0.08mm would break numerous overhang pillars
Very interesting I have not tried changing z hop before. One thing that really helped me on the interior of domes is a thicker line width. 0.48 on a 0.4 nozzle fixed issues for me in the past.
****WIPER DURABILITY UPDATE: The provided Nylon wiper that looks resin printed, has broken after wear. So it lasted me 6 weeks of consistent printing. Note that I do not have a colour changing AMS on this printer. My opinion is the provided wiper on the BEN2C is not very robust. I shall print FDM CF Nylon wipers and provide an update on its durability.
Thank you. I recently started getting clogs in my extruder when using the holographic plate. Turns out, when changing from the texturized plate to the smooth/high temp plate, the chamber heats more as a result of the higher bed temp and the filament in the extruder softens enough to bend and clog. I refuse to open the doors in my X1C so I wondered if this duct design may have a positive effect on extruder cooling. Although it may actually not as it looks like it introduces a bit more of resistance.
Oh I have been there. Clogs when the door is closed. Yes the duct may help. But if you closed the door more for noise reduction and/or avoid drafts, then you can just increase the rear exhaust fan to cool the chamber. If you don't know, its in the Filament's Advanced section under M106. At certain temps you can adjust the exhaust in the "S" parameter.
@@3dlootlab thank you. I will up that fan for PLA; good tip. I recently installed the bento box v2 and then installed with a temperature probe/trigger to start/stop it, so it also turns on an recirculates air above a certain temperature. I know it mixes the air and evens out the temperature; my best guess is this will also help as it should reduce the temp gradient from the bed. A review of the bento box (or similar) would be cool, because somehow there isn't much of it in videos about that theme.
By the way I had THAT EXACT problem of that 4 way overhang test model colliding and being knocked off. Especially at 0.08mm. The fix is increasing z hop (I used something nuts like 2mm but you can use less) and using normal for z hop settings, to make it move vertically up. This completely fixes the issue.
Its this, but it doesn't work super well, unless you also line the back of the printer which is hard to do. Also heat lost from the glass can be helped by putting cloth on top of the machine. www.aliexpress.com/item/32880962532.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.260.23451802loCZvg
sure your settings are correct? my k1 max produces much better results with standard creality print settings. maybe outside wall first on, its bad for overhangs
It was the standard inner, outer, infill. Thought infill, inner, outer is better for like 80% overhangs. I found 70% was better than 60% at times. Maybe the K1 just has better cooling. Which would be interesting to know for sure if someone could test both same material etc. I used Melody, PLA+ white.
It does actually work and provide better overhangs for PLA and ABS. I leave it up to people if they think it's worth buying for the money. Or there are some similar free STL solutions. I may test and compare that in a future video.
i got the p1s two days ago ... so far i printed almost 40 LOL... anyways i printed some figures , they actually came out very nice, BUT on overhangs the print looks terible...also tested with a few suppports and they all look bad.. is there any solution?
Hey that's great! Welcome to the Bambu club. Depends on the incline of the overhang and what material. But here is a few tricks Very slow printing overhangs Infill, inner wall, then outer wall print order More walls may help As much cooling as possible, open the door (if you have one), full fan speeds. Remove top panel of any Print cooler. IE instead of PLA 220C, go down to 205 or lower, but lower flow to half.
You can change the air angle but not the static pressure. This is a waste. What would be better would be a second aux fan and removing the toolhead fan all together
