I'm actually seriously considering (and have been for awhile) painting under a camera. The biggest issue is it's gotta be low latency, and I've got some of the problems Jeremy does with hand tremors.
Sounds like you've sorted your printer issues out, but if you ever have problems in future, the Atlas supports discord will sort you out. They do the presupports for a lot of STL patreons, and will help anyone to troubleshoot and dial in their printers. General advice I can give would be that lift speeds are typically best either really slow (sub 40), or really fast (180/240+) - 90 is in a bit of a grey zone. Great video though!
Finally we arrived at miniature painting muk bang. Feel the thrill of acquiring and painting a whole, new army without having to do it yourself and all within the span of one video. What a time to be alive.
With my Mono X I print very quickly. 1.0s exposure time and and 20s bottom layer with Siraya Tech resin. I usually get miniatures done in 2 hours or less. Black Magic Craft, You should probably use PTFE to help with the FEP sticking and yeah slowing the Lift Speeds helps with it as well. I also have to say my firmware is a custom firmware Anycubic gave me for my Mono X so not sure if that is the specific reason for my prints being able to print so quickly.
The REALLY lazy fast way is printing symbols on paper and cutting them out, using that instead of models 😀 Not much fun though, but at least you can play.
I can't believe how much work you put into these videos man!! It blows my mind. Not to mention the editing, sound and post production work. Stay classy mate. Your awesome.
2.5s layer time is... kinda short, specially for medium and large format printers. It makes sense if it's a Mono screen, but only on translucent resins. I've had more luck in the 2.7-2.8 range on the same resin you're using. Though I only do like 4-5 bottom layers at 35-38s, 55 seems like a lot; though that's not a big deal and highly depends on the printer. 1.8-2.5s layer time is absolutely possible with transparent or translucent ABS like resins, at least that's been my experience; if it's warm, cold resin makes things difficult. Good luck!
Ideal exposure times vary significantly even between printers of the same brand because they're manufactured cheaply and tolerances deviate quite a lot. My original photon required about 16s exposure for the same resin that other people used 6s exposure. That said, I assume he was pretty underexposed for this print.
I think in general most people overexpose to avoid failures. I’ve found this resin on this printer to give the best detail around 2.5/2.6. I went through a bottle of zMUD beige and got best detail and no over exposure over 3 seconds.
Hey mate. If you have the luxury of time (ha!) I'd love to see you run with your initial vibe and paint up some minis in a colour scheme outside of the 'default expected' theme.
considering that was such a whipshit project those turned out really nice. I wonder how many DMs don't even enjoy their games cause they are tired from working the night before though?.. that could be a whole video I think.
This is so cool, I got my 1st 3d printer last week (photon mono) after eyeballing how cool archvillian models were on your channel, I've been having a great time with it (lots of learning from fails), however watching this I think my exposure time has been waaay to high, I saw someone say 10s for minis, absolutely gonna try it with 2.5s see what happens haha
Oh also when I’ve been printing them I usually have it a lot slower than you, like half the speed and I’ve only had like 2 failures (upped the first layer cure time fixed it)
Doing an entire Abyssal Dwarf Army for Kings of War....all 3d printed all handmade bases ala Geek and Gaming. The hardest part has by far been the printing with all the mishaps I've had and having to fix my printer. I'm still missing 3 large models because my Mono is too small for such big pieces and would take forever. The painting has been easy going...lots of air brush rattle cans and soon to be dry brushing followed by an oil wash....I hope it ends up looking decent!
Bless you. I get so discouraged by folks on RU-vid 3d printing and never having (or at least showing) the failures. I feel like a noob when I STILL get failed prints, after a year or more of printing. Thanks for showing the successes and the failures
@@techbeef Yeah that should be how it goes. A lot of effort to get it set up initially then very little failure because it's all already correct. I'm assuming James struggles with supports as thats the only way I can see failures happening once the printer & resin are calibrated.
You should do this challenge again. A new army. 24 hours. OPR. Get hold of ARMYPAINTER new speedpaints. And have a 3 colour minimum. Maybe do it as 12 print and cure time. 24 hours to prime, paint AND base.
OPR is Amazing, I tried to get into Age of Sigmar with my gf after 13 Years of not playing Tabletop and the new Ruleset is Coplicated as hell. I get that it's probably great if you are already invested and know what you are doing, but just for some casual rounds here and there it's a lot. OPR can be learned in one day and they even offer a Point Calculator to make your of Weapons, Units and Spells and I love it. I've been spending weeks designing my own Units, giving them names and making fancy Stat Cards for them.
Yeah, lift speed can cause a whole ton of issues. Since I reduced mine significantly (90 is crazy to me tho, mine is at 35. But then, I have a Gen1 Photon, the Mono X might be different in that regard), I barely have ANY failures at all any more, even on delicate bits and supports. BTW, you could've probably fit another 6-8 models on that plate with a little bit of plate tetris.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE wear safety glasses whenever you have resin out in the open (like when you remove your models from the printer). All it takes is for something to fall from the build plate, into the vat and you'll get resin in your eyes and have life long health issues. Make it a habit like a seatbelt and it won't feel like a hassle. Same goes for a vapor ventilator. You may not mind the smell or be using a low odour resin, but prolonged exposure to VOCs is terrible for you. You only get one set of eyes and lungs folks, take care of them
Love that RU-vid folks are really starting to show people the advantages of 3D Printing. Most vids out there are don't get into 3d printing its to hard its really complex its dangerous they aren't detailed enough blah blah blah. Once you get just the basics down you can be ripping out 2000 point 40k armies in a week if not sooner depending on model points cost. And the DND, Pathfinder and any tabletop game potential is absolutely insane. You can get whole adventure sets, warbands, skirmish groups done in a day and be ready to play the next day or that night if you go unpainted but what heathens play with grey minis.
You have multiple machines that you use for your 3D prints, I assume printing, cleaning and UV proving, exactly which do you have please. You essential equipment takes me to amazon but to an out of stock item right now so it would be nice to hunt around. Many thanks for the awesome videos, ideas and encouragement.
Quick guide to painting cyberpunk miniatures: 1) Give them a zenithal highlight in 2 contrasting, bright colors (for example: Light blue and neon pink) 2) Give it a dark wash 3) Give it a light dry brush Boom perfectly serviceable minis for a cyberpunk setting
If you spray WD-40 Specialist Dry Lube With PTFE on a paper towel and coat the resin tray before adding the resin, it will stop the sticking. I had a few failed prints till I learned about that, now it only fails when I run out of resin, runing lift speed at 80 and never sticking. Also mix in 10-20% Siraya Tech Tenacious wiht the standard grey resin and models won't be so brittle.
I’m not convinced about the PTFE. There’s a lot of argument for it being snake oil or a bandaid, BUT I did order a bottler on Tenacious the other day to mix in.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial PTFE lube is recommended against by most manufacturers/professional printers. It's essentially the same material as the FEP anyway, it only lasts for a few prints, and can mix with and degrade resin properties. If prints are failing there is a different issue, and PTFE just adds another variable to go wrong.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial The amount I've used is very small, on a paper towel wiped on the bottom of the tray, doubt I'll ever use the entire can. I don't leave resin in the tray after my print has fininshed, it stopped the sticking that I was running into when I first started, never found any issues using it. The tenacious has made a huge diffrence though, I was running into swords snapping when removing the supports, went to a 50/50 mix and you can bend the weapons without breaking. Use a 10% for walls, floors and such but I go back to 50/50 for characters.
You should... Well not really just a joke ofc.. Make an april fools video where you try to make a burrito in 10 minutes. Make the seasoning like the painting part while expressing the joy.
Ah god, I always procrastinate on my RPGs. We don't use minis, but I draw a lot of the NPCs in our games and do all the maps, and always find myself cramming up to the last minute. I really need to manage my time better.
When I get around to painting some of my Robot Legion minis after printing them, I'm thinking about metallic or iridescent colors, maybe tryout some color shifting paints if I can get some.
I always get support failures using the presupported onepagerules mini's. 50% fail rate. I have 90% success if I support stuff myself. I like the models though.
I dislike most pre supported minis. They are either WAY over supported or the person who did the supports used all heavy supports. I think that there are far too many people out there who need to spend some time watching the 3D Printing Pro and adopting his support paradigms.
not sure if you gonna read this or even if it is a problem in your current videos, but i watched the video in 1,5x speed and it felt completly normal, so theres a lot of wasted time in this video i dont usually watch speeded up videos, just to be clear nice video tho
Apropos of CP:Red, y'all going to try the table top skirmish version when it's out? Cyberpunk Red: Combat Zone? I've been playing with the beta rules and it's pretty awesome! Plus it just uses the current and future minis from MFC for CP: Red.
If you're having trouble with the center of your plate for the mono x there are a few things you can try. I had a series of blunders for this printer as well. 1. You're Fep may be damaged, or its not tuned properly. If its the same one that came with the unit, its MOST Likely over-tightened, and cannot be tuned further. You'll have to buy a new fep. I've got recommendations if you need them, 2. Your plate isn't level, this one is a trick specifically because you may be doing an excellent job in the leveling process, however, you're not locking down the plate on the armature the same way if you've taken it off since then. You'll note that when you put the plate on and turn the knob, it may move slightly There are a few printed remedies for this as 'upgrades' to your machine. 3. You're resin isn't warm enough. Depending on what you're using, it may just be meh resin. I use Elego ABS like Grey or Siraya tech Navy Blue. Both good results. -- Hapy to connect with you over discord if needed
I actually changed the FEP and haven’t had an issue with the center since. Don’t know if it’s the lift speed or that, but things are working better now regardless.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial lift speed / vroom settings do have an impact. I'm not sure if I'm just lucky or not. I've found the mono x to be very machine specific in terms of settings and... 'results'. Awesome to hear that yours are getting better! I look forward to. More content!
Heyo , no doubt you probably tried it with yours but on my HalotOne printer i had issues with adhesion in the middle and after trying a bunch of suggestions it was the derpiest simplest thing, re-tension my FEP...... that solved it... though as an aid i also always wipe down the fep with PTFE dry lubricant spray whenever i drain the vat and clean everything, every little helps right? :) good fun stuff though man, those late night 'ooh i could just do XYZ' are the bane of my GM'ing existence.. but it keeps me on my toes!
I have a dumb question... Do you simply super glue the mini on a stick? I ask this because I've done that before and I often have terrible removing them later... At least not without snapping off a thin leg or joint or accidentally cutting off a toe. I'm just wondering if there's a glue that's easy to remove later but strong enough that I can flip the mini upside down without falling off the stick. I've tried poster tack and double sided tape as well, but they don't work any better.
I sometimes glue, but yea it can be sketch to remove. I mostly use double sided tape. In general I often glue to bases before paint just cause I can then attach the base to something with less worry.
I know you mentioned things failing in the center of the print bed - myself and many others had the same issue on the Mono X, what potentially is the case is a warped print bed. Anycubic sent out a LOT of printers with a bed that was concave so the middle was sunken in compared to the sides, just enough so things would fail.
Wish I had the money for a resin printer. There are so many cool artists out there I want to support and buy their STLs while being able to print out cool miniatures for my D&D games.
failures in the middle happens because that's where the fep lifts the most (being far away from the edges). you can get a few more prints by lowering lifting speed and raising lifting height, but at the end of the day it just means it's about time to replace the fep with a new one.
55 sec for the bottom layer?! Are you having trouble getting them off the build plate? 20 sec seems to be the sweet spot for me so the print adheres but the print still pops off the plate once I get the spatula under it
Nice job in just a day! Just a little suggestion from a guy down the road in Regina...check your room temperature when printing with resin. I built a little enclosure and added a small heater for my printer and it made a HUGE difference with reducing failures. It's hard to justify keeping an entire room at 25C to 30C for a print but it can REALLY help depending on the recommended temperature range for your resin.
You know…it’s funny you just posted this and not even thinking about it I ended up having to speed paint over 100 of my own minis. Including purchased and printed minis. Not only that, I think there’s some of the One Page Rules minis in there too. Not shown is the 3 days of non-stop (24 hours a day) mini and vehicle/terrain printing. LOVE your videos. You’re one of the creators that got me into making my own terrain/painting minis.
One thing I've learned from being a procrastinator btw: For resin prints you can **absolutely** skip priming. Takes too long to dry and airbrushing on a basecoat of regular acrylic black/zenithal works just fine and is dry in minutes. Paint grabs on to resin prints very well because the surface isn't actually smooth but made up of tiny voxel cubes. As long as you seal the minis properly, priming is not at all needed.
Upvote for Cyberpunk Red (hope we see more on that in the future), Upvote for OPR, Upvote for BMC...I need more upvote accounts :-P Great stuff as usual!
I love tight deadline videos like this! It's cool to see you what you strip down in your process to make tabletop ready minis in a short amount of time.
I'd done a 24 hour thing shortly before Covid lockdowns started though more limited in options because it was when the game store owner got a few resin printers (Most were borrowed for the contest they had)...a lot of things for going from print to table is picking your models right for it. You can also "cheat" with different options depending upon your specific choices. I went for a spectral undead force that let me spend most of my time in details...starting with a transparent/translucent blue resin option and some historical models for a force of ghostly warriors. After curing, I hit them with a mat varnish spray followed by a light blue drybrush, then it was for red glowing eyes (I filled the eyes with reaper gory red and dotted with their breast cancer awareness pink, then a smaller dot of pure white), along with some detail work with metallics and some brighter colors for gems. Had a second print run of detail pieces for the bases that were rather easy to do and mix up for the base...the original setup were for the models, second were some tombstones and similar things for the bases that mixed with some basing mix. Actual contest was starting in the evening and running the prints over night and a second print run available if we wanted it during the day of work. It was fun and exhausting there, force was still at the store last time I was there and it got me $50...which got me a pretty good D&D book
This is why I am sad GW are still pissing into the wind trying to fight 3d printing. Imagine buying STL files of your army direct from GW, printing a full Warhammer army yourself in no time at all and as large and varied as you want. It's such a wasted opportunity for them. With STLs you could easily customise your army without them having to manufacture every single configuration as a single product. I'm sure it's not as profitable for them as selling physical models on the sprue but not everyone has the patience to invest in and learn to 3d print. The physical sale market isn't going anywhere. Meanwhile people are 3d printing armies of unofficial models like this and exactly none of that money is going to GW. The way to beat 'piracy' is to offer a better service, and that's well within GW's power. (though this OPR stuff is only loosely inspired by necrons and doesn't really infringe copyright)
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial that is exactly what came to mind for me too haha, or yahoo and google. I dont think it will be to the same extent and that GW will go bust because of 3d printing, but i wouldnt be surprised if another company got very rich off this market GW neglected. Not to mention I imagine overpriced citadel resin would do just as well as overpriced citadel paints! Silly company...
