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Canbus SB2240 and SB2209 3D printer Install, Thoughts & Tips from BigTreeTech (BTT) 

Kapman's Basement Workshop
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This video details the install or retrofit of a Voron 2.4 core-xy 3d printer to canbus via the BigTreeTech SB2204 / SB2209 and the BTT U2C Canbus interface ( can bus ) for the Raspberry Pi 4. This shows how to update and configure Klipper onto these cards, mounting, cables, umbilical and reconfiguration of the printer.cfg files.
Extra special note:
If you are using the SB2240 and you are getting under voltage errors in Klipper, please have a look at this to resolve them:
github.com/Esoterical/voron_c...
Special note:
Correction, at about 9:41 in the video I state I'm going to flash the u2c but instead I just flash the SB2240. That's exactly what I did, but my voice over is incorrect. Please ignore what my narration states until I can fix and upload a newer video.
A Raspberry PI 4 or CM 4 are highly recommended. People have reported communication issues with the Raspberry PI 3. Devices more powerful than a Raspberry PI 4 are probably fine as well.
Resources used (I receive commissions that directly contribute to content creation on this site):
The BigTreeTech SB2240 / SB2209 & U2C: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=189092...
U2C: amzn.to/40K6mG5
SB2240: amzn.to/3Nor9Mq
SB2209: amzn.to/3n6m0y1
The pre-crimped connectors and wires I used: amzn.to/3NszA9H
The filament: amzn.to/3LDNiVG
The military green ABS and black ASA filament: www.paramount-3d.com/?ref=o45...
BigTreeTech github instructions: github.com/bigtreetech/EBB/tr...
Voron Startup instructions and checks: docs.vorondesign.com/build/st...
Instagram: / kapmansbasementworkshop

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4 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 376   
@KarmicJustice10424
@KarmicJustice10424 11 месяцев назад
I'm building this now, modernizing my Voron 2.4R2 but using a BTT Manta M8P. Thanks for the great video as usual!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
Thank you! The Manta is a very nice controller.
@navigas93
@navigas93 Год назад
This is just the perfect video, as I am about to order the electronics for my V2.4 R2 350 build. Amazing!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Good luck with your build and thanks for watching!
@schnibie1991
@schnibie1991 Год назад
I got the ez octopus max board and the sb2040, directly connected via Canbus ( no in-between board needed) . Love it.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
It's a great way to get this working. Super convenient.
@mobri2a
@mobri2a Год назад
+1 - ended up with the exact same precrimped kit. Which was really fortunate, as I was able to wire a Klicky probe to the Bltouch connector.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
That kit saved me! Thanks for the comment and watching!
@joshuabauer2297
@joshuabauer2297 Год назад
Great video. Thanks for going over this. You did however forget to mention the chamber thermistor built into the board on pin PA2. Overall great and has helped me out.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
You are correct, I completely forgot about that! Thank you!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I just enabled it. Interesting point. The diagram for connections for the SB2209 has PA2 listed. I don't see it on the SB2240 document in github. But it works with the SB2240 as well. Thank you again!
@joshuabauer2297
@joshuabauer2297 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop not a problem. I have mine setup with an octopus in bridge mode and used the chamber thermistor as TH0 for benchtesting. But having a inbuilt chamber thermistor on the board is a handy feature that doesn't seem to be well documented unless you look at the pins file.
@bobwtech
@bobwtech Год назад
​@@joshuabauer2297 If you look at the circuit board they put that thermistor right next to the driver chip. I think their intention was to monitor the driver temp. During a print, I found it's a much higher reading than my seperate chamber thermistor located on the back gantry.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
I just found this message. Thank you for posting this. I was worried the interior temps were getting too high! I need to install one just for these readings.
@stevehanwright481
@stevehanwright481 Год назад
I like your style,, I seem to be following many of you build mods.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching!
@stevehanwright481
@stevehanwright481 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I'm just following your work flow here and i see you had a EBB36 and now you have switched to this setup whats the reasoning please
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
The ebb36 has been great. No problems with it. But I was interested in the design of this and the 2240 motor driver. So I decided to give it a try. I would still fully recommend the ebb36, but I think for some, this might be an easier option with the face plate mounting and the clearance it provides in the back with so few wires back there. I have plans for the ebb36 in another printer if I can get around to building it. I think it’s a great controller board.
@ruivasconcelos3880
@ruivasconcelos3880 Год назад
I bought one back in January and arrived last week, waiting to work on it then you made this video, so super timing.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Hopefully you find the video useful. Good luck with your build!
@anaszeitouni809
@anaszeitouni809 Год назад
great video and beautifully explained thank you
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Thank you for the kind words and for watching!
@dfarr2004
@dfarr2004 4 месяца назад
Love the video man, and really got a kick out of the face burner comment @24:34
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 4 месяца назад
Thank you very much for the kind words!
@fraenker
@fraenker Год назад
Could've saved me some hassle. Was doing the mod this weekend with a friend on my voron (but used RJ11 directly, instead of the U2C). All doing fine now. I've still watched your video tho. Well done. :)
@levih.4252
@levih.4252 Год назад
Were you able to use the RJ11 on the MCU (which one? a Octopus 1.1?) without the use of a U2C? I am looking to go CAN BUS and was curious why a U2C is needed if the Octopus 1.1 has a CAN BUS port.
@fraenker
@fraenker Год назад
@@levih.4252 Yup, I'm running it on the RJ11 port on an Octopus 1.1 without U2C.
@levih.4252
@levih.4252 Год назад
@@fraenker Thanks for the quick response..... Any special settings? Do you mind sharing what you did? It would be greatly appreciated.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Thank you for the kind words and watching!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Glad I could help
@grathado28
@grathado28 11 месяцев назад
i was getting cpu issues untill i cam across your vid lol i used just your config for the nano helped bunch lol
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
I'm super glad it was helpful!
@ronspencer8329
@ronspencer8329 Год назад
Great video! I wish you could do a video on canbus/canboot setup for the manta m8p.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
It's a good suggestion, but I don't have one. If I get one, I'll publish it. However, you should be able to do exactly the same thing I did in this video if you choose to use the U2C like I did.
@davegomez9798
@davegomez9798 Год назад
I put this in like 6 weeks ago, agree on the pre crimped connectors, as I killed quite a few trying from scratch, either by not having strain relief with wire wrap not being correct length or just so fiddly. As for the adxl, might work via usb, but not so much via canbus, as it faulted out at about 60hz, not very usable. Everything else has been zero issues though with probably a couple hundred hours of printing time.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Thanks for the feedback. How do you haave this connected? To the Pi or the MCU?
@davegomez9798
@davegomez9798 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop to a orange pi 4 via a dedicated canbus connection , btt u2c eb36/42.
@KennethScharf
@KennethScharf 5 месяцев назад
I'm guessing the reason people have reported com issues with the RP3 is that they were running the CAN at 1mhz. Most of the CAN videos I've seen recommended running it at 250khz, which would probably work OK with the RPi 3. I'm thinking of using this or a similar can toolhead board on my Enderwire. I'm going to use the Taichi hot end with two M4 extruders for a dual color set up. Since my Stealthburner won't have a clockwork2 in it, I would run the 4 wire motor cable along one of the Bowden tubes back to the M4. The other M4 would be wired to my SKR Mini v3. I could wire the CAN cable along the other Bowden tube and then down to the MCU along with the other M4 motor cable. Then I wouldn't need an XZ drag chain. I also might try running the toolhead with a USB cable rather than CAN, an switch to CAN if it gives issues. I've heard you can use CAT5,6, or 7 cable (which ever has stranded wire) for the connection.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 5 месяцев назад
Reach out to me on Discord.
@GuidoHendriks1990
@GuidoHendriks1990 Год назад
Great video. I have an EBB36 with wire loom as well as the printed parts. Have been procrastinating for months to put it on. But now I wonder if I should skip and and go straight for the SB2209/2240. What are your thoughts considering you have experience with both?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
They both work really well. But the SB series eliminate alot of the wires that need to reach around the back of the print head where a Voron has very limited space. It also allows you to easily pull off the Stealthburner shroud without trying to unplug wires that are hard to reach around the back of the print head. But the EBB36 can be used with any print head you choose. With the SB22xx series, it must be stealthburner. Performance wise, they are both great. Hopefully this helps.
@austinlankford1082
@austinlankford1082 10 дней назад
If you try to use "CTRL + V" to paste in a terminal on Linux, you will get that wrapper around whatever you are trying to paste. You can use "CTRL + Shift + V" to paste correctly.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 дней назад
I did not knnow this. Great tip. Thank you!
@ddotaliaswalker
@ddotaliaswalker Год назад
Yep, that is a gamechanger. I have a flatflex cable for the x/y axis as the wiring but it is still not as nice as having ONE cable to fix the whole situation at best.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I'm really happy with Can Bus. I plan to use it on all my future printers.
@ddotaliaswalker
@ddotaliaswalker Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop One more question: How to wire the xy endstops at the xy-axis joint at best? I mean there would be a cablechain left to get the switches connected.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@ddotaliaswalker The y endstop gets relocated to the right XT motor/gantry joint. There are multiple mods for that. My other canbus video has links to the mods I used. The x endstop moves to the print head (there are 2 screw holes in the StealthBurner carriage for this purpose. If you relocate, the xy cable chains can disappear. But there are mods to go canbus and keep the cable chains for both the XY endstops and if you choose, the canbus wires. Or, if you are feeling adventurous, go sensorless. I originally relocated for a while and just recently switched to sensorless. If you choose to do this, I would go one mod at a time. Either canbus 1st or sensorless 1st.
@jimmy.deejay
@jimmy.deejay Год назад
Thank you! i greatly appreciate if you can do a BTT SKR3 EZ with Mellow Fly-SB2040 install.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
If I get one….thanks for watching!
@spottedowl
@spottedowl 6 месяцев назад
Thanks for the great video. Regarding the connectors and wiring. The thermistor coming from my DragonFly has the wrong connector and I'm in the same boat as you were. I bought the kit you mentioned in your video. The pre-crimped wires are smaller than the thermistor wires coming from the hotend. Did you splice them in to bypass the crimping? Was worried from a safety perspective on the different gauge wires.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 6 месяцев назад
I used the MX3 connector that came with the kit. It's larger to support he amperage and wattage of the heater. If I remember correctly.
@davidchavarria
@davidchavarria Год назад
Question on the end of the cable did you cut the ends off for the U2C and use one of the connectors, like the 4pin?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I cut the end off and used the U2C screw terminals. I hate crimping connectors....
@macdox69
@macdox69 Год назад
Just installed this on my new Voron and I found the connectors just too small for me both for eyes and in hand. Purchased pre-wired micro JST connectors and spliced them to larger wires. Not as nice, but works and was just too frustrating trying to crimp those micro JSTs. Working well, the one gotcha I see a lot of people doing is placing the heat sink at the wrong location.(Correct in this video)
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I had the same problem. At the end of the video and at least once or twice I made the same recommendation. The pre-crimped kit even came with heat shrink tubing. I'm pretty sure the PA-09 isn't the right tool either. That said, this SB2240 is nicely designed. Now that it's in, I like it a lot! Thanks for the helpful comments and watching!
@macdox69
@macdox69 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Luckily I had that connector kit already on hand before the board arrived. Even with a smaller crimper I see this as a struggle for most people. They are just so small, just trying to hold and get wire sheath in properly is incredibly difficult. If they could find a way to use standard JST normally used on 3D printers, this board would be perfect. IMHO Your other videos on CanBus sure helped a lot. I think you might be right on continuing to use the USB-adapter to simplify things. I have mine working straight CANbus, I'm rethinking using the U2C approach to avoid any hassles in the future.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@macdox69 I agree 100%. Thank you!
@macdox69
@macdox69 11 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Seems the newer version that uses the RP2040 has bigger PH 2.0 connectors. It also says it has software CANBUS. Curious what implications if any that has.
@rfgame3457
@rfgame3457 Год назад
Like you see in the video there is not enough space to plug/unplug TH0 wire(Lucky you with pt100). I have created pull request to the EBB repo with modified SB parts for better access.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
That's cool. Thank you for doing that. I hope it's adopted.
@sronnie
@sronnie Год назад
I’ve used them. Works great!
@brianalsum7706
@brianalsum7706 Год назад
Thank you for your previous replies however Im wanting to make sure I get the connection to my U2C board done correctly. How did you make the canbus umbilical to the U2C board connection? I thinking of using the 4 pin square black connect. On the umbilical there is the obvious red and black wires for GND and VIN, but then the green and yellow wires that where already terminated are CAN but what color is can high and what color is can low?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Yellow is usually high. But to be 100 sure, I would check the pinouts for the canbus board. I will check for you, but later today.
@KennethScharf
@KennethScharf 3 месяца назад
I went through some hell getting my Mellow-Fly SB2040 working on klipper. My problem was that all of the GPIO pin names had to be lower case, I was entering them in UPPER case because that's how they appeared in the documentation.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 3 месяца назад
I did not realize they were case sensitive. I cannot believe I have not run into this. Thank you for posting this!
@KennethScharf
@KennethScharf 3 месяца назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop The code that checks for this is in python. I'm sure it could be rewritten to be case insensitive.
@eagle4lebress110
@eagle4lebress110 Год назад
Good morning, good video, very useful, but why did you change the EBB36 of the previous video from the canbus
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I wanted to give this a try. I liked the way this installs. The EBB3 has been great, I have no complaints about it. A super nice device. I plan on using it for another build soon.
@paulstephenson5311
@paulstephenson5311 Год назад
Thank you for yet another useful video. I've bought the kit and it now comes with pre-terminated wires. Why have they moved the X axis end-stop switch to the toolhead?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
That's good it comes with pre-terminated wires. It's only if you want to use it. You can still use your old endstop switch and location if you like. Many who choose canbus go umbilical to get all the wires off the gantry. They will also move the y-endstop to the back of the gantry. But you can choose to not do that. Have a close look in the video. There are no cable chains on the x or y axis. To do that, the x endstop need to move to the tool head. Thanks for watching!
@paulstephenson5311
@paulstephenson5311 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for the clarification. Moving both end stops make sense and is something that I am going to do. I'll have to do some research and find the optimum spot for the Y switch.
@MrTrockc
@MrTrockc Год назад
Great video! I've done the install and found the Pi3 was too slow to communicate with it (with BTT U2C canbus) and had to upgrade to Pi4. and yes, the connectors are awful to crimp!! Found it easier (but still tricky) to solder the wires. So far it's been a good upgrade.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Yes, I'm using a Pi4, a CM4 actually. Thank you for the comments and watching!
@thomasfjen
@thomasfjen Год назад
You can play a bit with your busspeed and txquelen settings, it's working fine for me with a waveshare can hat on pi 2.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@thomasfjen that's good to know as well. The waveshare can hat is a great device as well. I have nothing but good things to say about it. I love the way it mounts and takes up no additional space under the printer.
@lewiss66
@lewiss66 3 месяца назад
You installed the canbus firmware via canboot. Is it the same procedure with using the new katapult ap ? Thanks for your video !
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 3 месяца назад
I would follow this guide.
@steveharmancambridge
@steveharmancambridge 2 месяца назад
Great video, this is going to be really useful - thanks. Something that my tiny brain can't get quite around and I couldn't find an answer online - these boards are often described as "SB2240 and SB2209". Does that mean there are two different _versions_ one SB2240 and another SB2209? Or is it a board with a combination of both? The other part to that is.... assuming there _are_ two different boards, what's the decision-making-process for choosing between them? Thanks again.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 2 месяца назад
Those are two different versions. The only real difference is the stepper motor driver on each circuit board. It will be either the 2209 or the 2240. The 2240 runs a little cooler. I have both and they run great. However, some have had undervoltage errors with the SB2240. The general recommendation is to go with the SB2209.
@3dprint4u
@3dprint4u 9 месяцев назад
Great video, going for the SB2209 RP2040 on my Trident, when u flashed canboard i didn´t see the jumper anymore on the 120R pin. Shouldn´t it be there?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
I am honestly not sure. But when flashing I was using USB. So I don't think it was a requirement until actually using canbus.
@Levisgil47
@Levisgil47 Год назад
Hello, thanks for the video. I went with the fysetc kit that includes the spider ctrl board and I Wonder if all those mods you showed will work with my board. I did see some equivalent extension boards like canbus, input shaker, Tap, on fysetc side but not sure if they stack up with BTT ones. Could you help out? Thanks
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
The only items I have from Fysetc is the Spider controller (which has been great) and a PEI flexible bed pate (also great). Everything I show in this video is working with the spider controller. However, since I use the U2C connected to the Pi, technically I'm actually bypassing the spider for canbus. Input shaper & Tap are probably just fine from them. I'm sure their canbus board is good as well. But if it needs to be flashed, I would follow their guide to build and install as it might have a difference cpu when running make.
@chucktaylor5878
@chucktaylor5878 Год назад
I am wondering if you could somehow use the 3do nozzle camera with this canbus.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I don't think you can use this with canbus. However, the canbus hardware will work over USB. Some people run power and a USB cable to these canbus controllers. So if you could get a very small usb hub circuit of some kind, you might be able to run a single USB cable to the print head and then connect both devices to USB. Although another option is 2 USB cables to the print head.
@sandervanvoxel3d
@sandervanvoxel3d Год назад
This is so good!! How is the process different from just connecting the SB2240 straight to the CAN0 RJ11 connector on the Bigtreetech Octopus (so without the U2C) Hope to hear from you
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I wish I could tell you based on experience, but I'm using a Spider on this printer. That said, I'm 90% sure this is the same for the most part. I used the U2C "as is" from the factory, so it's not really a factor here in terms of work beyond plugging it in and your Octopus provides that U2C functionality. Have a look at the very 1st link on this page: github.com/Esoterical/voron_canbus . I believe this is what you are looking for.
@sandervanvoxel3d
@sandervanvoxel3d Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thanks for the reaction! So basically you expect I can follow your guide, but just skip the U2C section?? Also, any reason you chose for the DFU update route, instead of the CANboot option? Hope to hear from you and thanks in advance
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@sandervanvoxel3d I choose the DFU route to keep the software installation simpler initially. When I need to upgrade that software in the future, I plan on connecting my laptop and using the DFU method again. Note that I stated "initially" as there is a tradeoff here. Some may not see using DFU again in the future as "simpler" but instead as more work. So CANboot is a little more work up front, but should simplify future upgrades. It's really just up to you. Also, in thinking about your question and situation above, I think I would follow the Esoterical documentation and use my video when you need/want to see some of those steps when applicable.
@cbean2307
@cbean2307 Год назад
Any clue as to why I have no can0 file? In reference to about the 15 minute mark. Folder is even empty when I run an ls command. Thanks!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Yes. You never had any canbus devices installed previously. It's normal. Perhaps my choice of words in the video was not ideal. So in your case, simply create the file. More details at 11:30 into this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jgE3XMM9PBk.html
@justinsfunthings8263
@justinsfunthings8263 5 месяцев назад
I always use tab autocomplete for things, less typing and less chance of a typo.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 5 месяцев назад
That's a good tip. Thanks!
@SneakyFrog
@SneakyFrog Год назад
I see you had a hard time putting the CAN bus terminator. The most underrated 3D Printer tool is a pair of tweesers ;)
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Believe it or not, I tried tweezers, but I was not successful with those either. I’m all thumbs!
@sronnie
@sronnie Год назад
I am lost on what in my kit is a canbus terminator. I have something that looks like a jumper with a long flat plastic piece on one end. It fits but the flat plastic bit keeps the SB access door from closing. What am I doing wrong?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
It’s just a jumper on the termination pins. I believe it’s labeled "120".
@richardclinton8408
@richardclinton8408 Год назад
I'm about halfway through on this, was curious how you connected the canbus cable that comes with the kit to the u2c? Did you cut it and crimp it to fit one of the square plugs on the u2c? And also, when I should connect it during this video? Also, just as a side note, they seem to be supplying precrimped wires now with the kit.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
It's cool that they are supplying per-crimped wires now! I eliminated the plug on the end that connects to the U2C, stripped the wires and used the screw terminals on the U2C. I was so tired of crimping by then....:) I had it connected and powered so I could build and install the software onto the controller. Essentially it needs to be plugged in and powered so you can set the controller into DFU mode. One other thing. In the video, I state I'm installing software to the U2C, but then if you follow thew video, I don't install any software onto the U2C. And in fact, to this day I never have. Please ignore what a say right there and what the title screen states. The directions however are correct if you just continue to follow through.
@richardclinton8408
@richardclinton8408 Год назад
@Kapman's Basement Workshop I read that in the description about the u2c, just was confused on when to connect the canbus to the u2c. That was only part i was unsure about. Also, did you use 120r jumpers on the u2c and 2240? I'm starting from a fresh install of everything. I should go pi image with fluidd, octopus, then this video, then config stuff if I'm thinking correct...
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@richardclinton8408 Yes, I installed the jumpers in both places (120r) to properly terminate the canbus network. I would do that right away just to make sure you get the cleanest signal possible for canbus.
@brianalsum7706
@brianalsum7706 Год назад
I've been all over the Voron-Stealthburner Github page and can not find that small adapter plate stl file. Got a link? Also for using tap where does it plug in and what what voltage do you set the Prox voltage to on the SB2240? I just want to confirm before I release the magical blue smoke! Great videos
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Here is the spacer you were looking for: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/STLs/Clockwork2/%5Ba%5D_pcb_spacer.stl The SB2240 and SB2209 are powered by 24v straight from the power supply. If any of your fans need 5v or 12v, that needs to get set on the board they are connected to that gets mounted into the SB cowl. Each fan output can be set individually. TAP will plug into any of the ports designed to handle switches, but I used: PB9 For all the TAP wires, I need to go back in and look as I've forgotten. But depending on the optical sensor on TAP there is a good chance it needs to be connected to 5v. Let me know if you need the full wiring for TAP. I'll need to go back and look.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Actually, in the BTT Manual for the SB2240 and 2209. Page 7 shows the pinout. PB9 is a pin where the BLTouch would normally be connected. That is where I connected TAP. PB9 is there as well as the needed 5v. I hope that helps. Thanks!
@djmulder
@djmulder 6 месяцев назад
beh I don't have that spacer to mount it to the stealthburner.. what's the height of it? I have some plastic spacers that would easily fit.. can print it later then
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 6 месяцев назад
If you previously built the stealth burner, you probably already have that part printed. Any spacer will do as long as it does not short anything and allows you to secure the circuit board.
@dougbower2884
@dougbower2884 5 месяцев назад
Can you provide the location of the Canbus adapter plate that is mounted on the other side of the circuit board? I have been through the entire git repository for Stealthburner and cannot find it. Thanks!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 5 месяцев назад
In the Voron design git hub, Voron-Stealthburner/STLs/Clockwork2/[a] _pcb_spacer. Stl
@otann
@otann Год назад
Thank you for the instructions! This was an inspiration for me to get the SB2209. I am not quite sure I understand how do you flash the bios? After connecting the usb cable from the Pi to the U2C and pressing the boot, do you then connect the SB2240 to the U2C? Do you ever flash the new firmware to U2C? And if this is out of the box U2C, should it be flashed?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
So you just touched on a problem with the video that I did not notice until it was too late. I did not flash the U2C, I used it as it came out of the package. No flashing was needed. But you need to flash the SB2240. For that, plug in the USB cable into the SB2240, as the video actually does show (the section is titled incorrectly), boot it into DFU mode and flash it. Once done, you can plug it into the U2C and you should be good to go on the rest of the video which is really just configuration. My apologies for that.
@otann
@otann Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thank you! I flashed it and it is showing in Klipper now in the temperature section. Everything looks so clean without the cable chains! However I ran into some problems. Hotend heater and thermistor seem to work, I tried to heat it up to 50C, but both fans and tap doesn't work. I checked voltage, polarity, for fans, tried to connect them without LEDs, but nothing helped. Tap I tried to connect to different pins (PB5, PB6, PB7) but it does not trigger. Do you know what might be the problem? Or how to debug if the board works correctly? It scares me to but the chains and all all the wiring back 8-E
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@otann If you are sure the wires are all connected correctly to the proper pins, I would assume either the printer.cfg settings are incorrect, or possibly that the connectors are not crimped/assembled correctly (I struggle with crimping). Those are the only issues I can think of. In my case, I had TAP set to pin: can0:PB5 and the "probe" section in my printer.cfg file reflects that. For the fans: [heater_fan hotend_fan] ## Hotend Fan - FAN0 Connector pin: can0: PA0 max_power: 1.0 heater: extruder heater_temp: 50.0 [fan] ## Print Cooling Fan - FAN1 Connector pin: can0: PA1 max_power: 1.0 kick_start_time: 1.0 off_below: 0.10 I'm not sure what else I can suggest. It's most likely just wiring or printer.cfg configuration. I wish I could provide better help here.
@otann
@otann Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop You provided a ton of help, I am incredibly grateful 🙌 I ran out of crimping terminals and gave up on this board. Also tried to check voltages with the multimeter, but I am not very experienced with it to fully understand what's going on. When I set housing fan to 50% then I see half of the voltage on the fan pins. But I don't see any change in voltage on the SB2209 board. So I assumed I accidentally fried it somehow. But in the end I got Mellow SB2040. It has less features of course (you can't change fan's voltage with jumpers) but it uses much more available connectors - JST PH2.0, way more easy to crimp. And it is smaller, and companion plate is compatible with non-can breakout board. Without your video I would not even be even aware of the CAN and umbilical approach, so huge thanks again. You are making great content!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@otann I'm sorry it didn't work for you. But I'm sure the Mellow will work out great.
@theamzngq
@theamzngq Год назад
Thanks! Where did you end up running the umbilical? I don't see it attached to the back of the flying gantry in the final shot, unless I'm just missing it.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I switched it during this upgrade. I'm now running it through the top, rear air filter screen. I'll post a video of that soon. But there is STL out there for that (if you wish to get rid of that air filter) or you can just run it through the right rear gantry like I did on the previous canbus video.
@MichaelBack-tk9xj
@MichaelBack-tk9xj Год назад
Can you Share the STL for the Top Exit of the cable please ?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@MichaelBack-tk9xj I'll share it, but it currently has a problem. I loaded someone elses STL file into tinkercad to modify it and tinker cad slightly corrupts the file around the screw holes. I have no idea why. I was going to load it into something else to modify it, but have not gotten to it yet. I'll post a link today and post a message here when done. It's ugly, but not visible and works. You might need to enlarge the hole/holes slightly.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@MichaelBack-tk9xj www.printables.com/model/438412-air-filter-back-plate
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Did you post a link to an stl file? I think that is what I see in RU-vid, but for some strange reason I cannot get to your actual comment! Any chance you can post again?
@framespersecondfps5256
@framespersecondfps5256 Год назад
I have this added to my cart but was looking for a review before buying. Thanks again for a wonderful review. One question though, is it really mandatory/necessary to buy U2C for this to work or can it be connected directly to mcu rather than pi?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
You can connect it to the MCU if the MCU supports canbus. In my case, I like the idea of using 2 USB ports on the pi. 1 for mcu, the other for canbus. I like to think it provides more bandwidth. Is it needed? Probably not. This will absolutely connect to the MCU that supports canbus. Also, Thank you!
@framespersecondfps5256
@framespersecondfps5256 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your time and effort. I'm using BTT octopus V1.1. I guess it has a can bus port
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@framespersecondfps5256 That should work just fine. Thanks for watching!
@framespersecondfps5256
@framespersecondfps5256 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Does this apply to Mellow CAN Board too?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@framespersecondfps5256 I don't believe which can board you use really matters, they should all work with Octopus canbus interface as long as you get the cable correct. That said, I have no experience with the Mellow board.
@flpsht
@flpsht 4 месяца назад
Hello @kapman, i'm having major issues with the 2240 board, its giving me the "undervoltage" error, and according to A LOT of research, its a wide spread issue.. : / How are your fearing with this board? have you done anything in your cfg to get it to work?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 4 месяца назад
The SB2240 has been flawless for almost a year. And then, two weeks ago I started getting under voltage errors. I started re terminating anything that provided power to canbus and the SB2240. Turns out that placing a new terminator (plug) on the end of the canbus cable from the SB2240 that plugged directly into the U2C fixed it. I used the largest 4 wire connector that came with the kit. That one change fixed it immediately. The U2C is still powered by DC from the power supply to the U2C screw terminals. It's been running great ever since.
@ftlw1433
@ftlw1433 3 месяца назад
So did you leave Hall effect sensors in. I’m trying to decide wether to order mechanical x endstop, or leave the Hall effect sensor pod in my printer since it does x and y
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 3 месяца назад
I don’t. I also went sensorless in another video. So I got rid of all micro switches. I do have the one optical switch in Tap.
@ftlw1433
@ftlw1433 3 месяца назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop everyone says go sensorless, but I’m a little nervous.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 3 месяца назад
@@ftlw1433 , Everyone makes it sound like it will destroy your printer. It won't as long as you follow Klipper's tuning instructions. But I know some have reliability problems with it if It stops too early when homing. But lowering the sensitivity takes care of it.
@petarbajai
@petarbajai 4 месяца назад
just a question, how can you flash the canbus controller if the h/l wire is not connected to the u2c board? I only see the 24 volt wires and the USB C connector on the U2C board After pressing boot and reset, did you connect a USB cable to the Canbus controller?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 4 месяца назад
Yes, you flash it with the USB cable and your PC/laptop/mac or Pi.
@imabeapirate
@imabeapirate Год назад
what standard is that canbus cable? i've never seen that connector before.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I honestly don't know. BTT sells it and so far it's been a great cable. I have noticed on Aliexpress other companies seem to use that connector as well.
@etx007blue2
@etx007blue2 6 месяцев назад
How do I connect the CAN cable supplied from the BTT 2209 board to the U2C module? there is no instruction anywhere.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 6 месяцев назад
You have many choices. But I simply used the screw terminals on the U2c.
@MikeysLab
@MikeysLab Месяц назад
make -j like make -j7, instead of just make, will make it build a LOT faster
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Месяц назад
This is a great tip. Thank you!
@jaredlewis2961
@jaredlewis2961 10 месяцев назад
So with the per-crimped wires suggestion, how did you connect those to the existing wires? For example the Heater cartridge or the Heater TH?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
I cut off the existing connector on the TH for example, place heat shrink tubing on the wires, solder the pre-crimped wire onto the newly cut wire and then shrink the heat shrink. I've been told the newer kits come with pre-crimped connectors.
@jaredlewis2961
@jaredlewis2961 10 месяцев назад
@KapmansBasementWorkshop makes sense. I just got the SB2209 and did not come with any pre-crimped wires. Did you do the same for your hotend heater cartridge wires as well?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
@jaredlewis2961 Actually, I can’t look at the printer right now, I believe I treated that one a little differently. I think I built an adapter cable for it. My hot end wires were too short to reach. I trimmed one of the precrimped wires and attached a connector on the other end to plug the hot end cable into….
@slipespesialisten1178
@slipespesialisten1178 Год назад
Loving all your videos, they have been of great help in my quest of building my Voron :) I just installed the SB2240 and have had problems with TMC extruder undervoltage errors ever since. I swapped out the extruder motor and the error went away but now when I try to push speeds it is back again. Have you had this error?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I have not, however I spent some time searching this morning and there are others that do. It appears the solution is: in the extruder section of the printer.cfg, add this: driver_tpfd: 0 Thanks!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I believe it actually gets added to the [tmc2240 extruder] section....
@slipespesialisten1178
@slipespesialisten1178 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Hi and thank you for answering :) Tried the driver_tpfd: 0 fix and it does not work. I will try to up the voltage on my PSU to see if that does help now. And I am waiting for an answer from TMC on what the 2240 is fuzzy about. I was wondering if it reacts to the drop it self or if it reacts based upon when the driver gets under a specific Volt. I have read everything I can find and I have also contacted BTT. So the adventure has started. Up til now it has not been a nice one, but let's hope it ends well :) Untill now it seems the SB2209 is the safest bet by a long shot :)
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@slipespesialisten1178 What is the actual error message you are getting? Can you paste the actual message here?
@slipespesialisten1178
@slipespesialisten1178 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop TMC "extruder" reports error: GSTAT: 00000004 uv_cp=1(Undervoltage)
@bobwtech
@bobwtech Год назад
So I'm assuming you have the SB2240 with the TMC2240 driver, not the SB2209, with the TMC2209 driver? Hence, the changes for SPI vs UART? What made you decide to use the TMC2240 board? Been considering going to a serial toolhead but still a bit uncertain.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I went with the 2240 because it supposedly runs a little cooler that the 2209 and honestly I wanted to try something a little different. I run 2209s everywhere else and they are great!
@bobwtech
@bobwtech Год назад
​@Kapman's Basement Workshop Just finished installing the SB2240 on my Voron2.4 thanks to you. The only problem I had was the U2C was in permanent DFU mode irregardless of the boot switch. Updating its firmware solved that. How do you like the horizontal Z drag chain? I found my umbilical can get stuck behind the stock setup.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@bobwtech Glad to hear it's working for you! The drag chain is ok and so far, works well. But if you choose to do that, you will need to use the thinner drag chain that is used on the x & y axis to replace the wider chain on z. Also, you will need to be careful at how you size it when the gantry is very close to the bed. It needs to be as long as it can be for maximum flexibility so it does not impact the rear of the gantry while not touching the wiring or motor on the left side of the gantry. I think a few people have found they could not use it because when printing the 1st layer, there wasn't enough space for the chain to fully compress which slightly lifted the rear of the gantry. I don't have that problem, but there are some that have. So it works well, but please be careful.
@bobwtech
@bobwtech Год назад
@Kapman's Basement Workshop I saw your pictures were on the Printables website. They were helpful! I made the non-klicky gantry + lower mount and positioned them similar to yours. I noticed you use the bottom frame mount on the gantry as well. Seems like that would limit the lower travel, although improving the maximum. Using the smaller chain with the total links you used, I have no problems. One mod I made to the bottom mount stl is I offset the chain towards the front by 4mm. If you line up the top mount to the cl of the gantry and the bottom to the cl of the frame, it skews the chain. Probably not a big deal.... BTW, this was my first print with CANBUS. Millons if frames transfered and no can0 errors 🙂.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@bobwtech You are right about the mount limiting lower travel. In my case, it did not seem to be an issue. But I have learned since that for some it has been. It's great news that you got you 1st print under canbus! Canbus is a major modification for a printer so congratulations are due! Thank you for the feedback and comments!
@gjmi72
@gjmi72 Год назад
I want this 😁 but the space behind the fan now holds the usb interface for my 3do nozzle cam…..hmmmm … time to get creative!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Have a look at my other Canbus video. It uses the ebb36 which mounts behind the extruded motor. It works great!
@PhilippensTube
@PhilippensTube Год назад
I've looked a few guides about adding CAN bus to the toolhead. But everyone seems to be using the USB to CAN bus interface. Why is there no love for the Waveshare CAN hat for the raspberry Pi? Is the USB interface easier or better? It seems to me that a hat is more convenient.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I'm not sure why, but in my 1st canbus video I certainly use it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jgE3XMM9PBk.html
@PhilippensTube
@PhilippensTube Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Oh, great! Thanks.
@skyrim4713
@skyrim4713 Год назад
Is the Umbilical mount stl included with the stealtburner stl ?..
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
No, but it is included in the Github for the SB hardware from BTT.
@TheHopson
@TheHopson 7 месяцев назад
I’m using a btt pad 7 with a octopus pro ez board. Will I need a u2c module to connect to my ebb sb2209?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 7 месяцев назад
You can connect the SB2209 through the Octopus. But, some people claim better reliability through the U2C. I would try it. If you have issues, then adopt a U2C.
@Peace11uehman
@Peace11uehman 9 месяцев назад
Did you cut and shorten your Canbus cable? Ever since I did wire management i get the under voltage error.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
I did shorten the cable from the end that connects to the U2C. When do you get the error?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
I was getting an undervoltage error on my y-axis recently, unrelated to Canbus. I ended up lowering the current to the motor and the problem went away.
@Dbauer50
@Dbauer50 11 месяцев назад
How are the pre-crimped connector wires holding up with the chamber heat so far? I have this setup and having the same issue as you, can't see them well enough to crimp them. lol.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
They are working well. I have had no trouble with them. Also, the crimps are much better than any I have ever done before.
@Dbauer50
@Dbauer50 11 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Great thanks for the info. I bought the wire kit you mentioned so will do it the same way. any soldering tips for them since it is a cramped space for the wires already?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
@@Dbauer50 I measured and then cut and soldered prior to installing the cables. Also, make sure you have heat shrink tubing on hand!
@ljuboizsiska5448
@ljuboizsiska5448 Год назад
I have SB 2240 on V2,4 and Trident. What do I need to do to be able to use the input shaper I used before switching to canbus? By the way, your videos are excellent and have been useful to me on many occasions, including when assembling the SB 2240.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
In your printer.cfg file you need a few lines like this (these are my actual values for the SB2240): [adxl345] cs_pin: can0: PB12 spi_software_sclk_pin: can0: PB10 spi_software_mosi_pin: can0: PB11 spi_software_miso_pin: can0: PB2 axes_map: x,-y,z [resonance_tester] accel_chip: adxl345 probe_points: 175,175,20 # xy&z coordinates based on your printer size. I used this for a 350mm 2.4. Once in the file, restart Klipper and you should be able to run Klipper's resonance testing just as the instructions state. Thank you very much for the kind words and for watching!
@ljuboizsiska5448
@ljuboizsiska5448 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your answer. You are a kind person. I assume that since I had to completely reinstall klipper and did not reinstall imput shaper before mounting the SB 2240, there is no difference in the software installation itself? Should I just follow the instructions from the Klipper Documentation?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@ljuboizsiska5448 I believe that is correct. When I run it, I just follow the Klipper docs. It has been a while since I installed Klipper from scratch....
@ljuboizsiska5448
@ljuboizsiska5448 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your help! I installed the imput shaper on V2.4 and Trident following the instructions on the Klipper Documentation and everything works flawlessly. I know I'm boring but one more question; In the fluidd interface, I get a warning that updates are available. Is the update process the same as without canbus?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@ljuboizsiska5448 Yes, the update process is exactly the same, nothing changes. Update just like you did before. I'm glad this is working for you!
@michaelrobinson9643
@michaelrobinson9643 11 месяцев назад
How have you done the labelling on your cables?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
I didn't. The lengths are so short on the tool head and easy to trace. I did not bother. Also, for the canbus cable, I felt the colors were quite clear so I left those alone as well. It's only 4 wires. This isn't the best answer, but so far it's working for me.
@germanigortsev1361
@germanigortsev1361 Год назад
U2C not required, you can connect directly to Octopus or Manta via CAN and Canboot
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
True, but I don't have an Octopus or Manta. But I know many have had trouble with timeouts using those and other methods I have found this to be completely reliable. A dedicated connection to the MCU and another dedicated connection to canbus. It works well for me. Thanks for the comment and watching!
@Tifidy
@Tifidy Год назад
Is 2240 compatible with manta m8p 1.1 with cm1
@finnpanvig_org
@finnpanvig_org 6 месяцев назад
You seems to skip the part where you connect your U2C to your PI and Mainboard. I am going to order U2C for my setup since I can not get the ebb sb2209 to work when connecting it directly to my octopus 1.1 can bus RJ12 connector. The problem is that the bigtreetech website illustrates the usage of U2C being connected to the USB-C port on my Octopus and that USB is already taken by my raspberry PI. So where do you connect the U2C to your mainboard?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 6 месяцев назад
I connect the U2C to the pi vis a USB port. And then I connect the U2C directly to the SB2209. The mainboard is being used just as it originally was with it's own USB connection to the PI. The mainboard is just not involved in canbus in the setup I'm using. Many people have had difficulty with the setup you tried. So my connections are: Pi USB -> U2C USBC U2C canbus -> SB2209 canbus Pi USB - MCU USBC In addition, you need to connect power to the U2C. I got the power directly from the powersupply. I did not configure the MCU for canbus at all. It's simply running as it always has (with the extruder motor removed). Eric Zimmerman has a diagram of how I set this up as well. Have a look here under "Connecting all the things": github.com/EricZimmerman/VoronTools/blob/main/EBB_CAN.md Eric is using a different canbus mcu, but just replace the EBB36 in the photo with your SB2209. And be very careful with the power connections. Let me know how this works out for you.
@finnpanvig_org
@finnpanvig_org 6 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you very much. I appreciate the fast response and I will definitely follow this description.
@finnpanvig_org
@finnpanvig_org 6 месяцев назад
Ok I am now testing with U2C but that seems to fail in same way. I keep getting "No such device" when I attempt to pull an ID with "~/klippy-env/bin/python ~/klipper/scripts/canbus_query.py can0". Besides enabling the 120R Resistor on the EBB itself which exact resistor(s) do I need to enable on the U2C board when I use the black 4 pin 3mm CAN_OUT as output for the CAN cable?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 6 месяцев назад
On the U2C there are 2 terminating resistors where I placed a jumper. I assume you installed the firmware on the SB2209. Then unplug the usb cable and power cycle the SB2209. Make sure the canbus cable is fully connected, including 24v. I would then reboot the pi. You should see it appear then.
@eraldylli
@eraldylli Месяц назад
Is that adaptor for the pcb different from the one furnished by the Voron team in the SB project? They seem to be identical, but Im not entirely sure.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Месяц назад
Yes, it is the same adapter 3d print
@eraldylli
@eraldylli Месяц назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Cool, thanks.
@fiqabumm1
@fiqabumm1 Год назад
hi i want to install the firmware via pc for now. do i still need to insert the canbus terminator ?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I don’t believe it’s required at this point, but I would do it anyway just so you don’t forget to later.
@GrumpyDave1
@GrumpyDave1 11 месяцев назад
I would be curious to know what connector you used on the U2C to connect the canbus to your SB. The reason being that there are JST connectors as well as the Molex ones for connecting canbus clients. I am assuming due to the power requirements that you need to use the Molex.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
I actually used the screw terminals on the U2C. No connectors.
@GrumpyDave1
@GrumpyDave1 11 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop In your video the green power rail is used to connect to power. So how are you powering the SB2240/2209. Is it powered directly from the PSU? Hence the question about the Molex. I was under the impression that you use the power rail to connect to the PSU and the molex to connect both power and can h/l, to the SB
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
@@GrumpyDave1 I have done it 2 different ways. Both work. 1. 24v + and - wires from the PSU into the screw terminals on the U2C and using the same screw terminals for the power wires on the canbus cable. 2. Canbus power directly to the psu screw terminals. And a 24v cable from PSU screw terminals to the U2C screw terminals. I don't think this last cable was needed, but I connected it just in case. They both work fine.
@GrumpyDave1
@GrumpyDave1 11 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop So I decided to go with PSU to green power connectors on the U2C and Molex for the power and canh/l to the SB2040. I do like your way to avoid having to crimp a molex. I assume you used the screw terminal on the U2C for the can h/l?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
@@GrumpyDave1 Yes, I used the screw terminals for H & L. I've never fully mastered the art of crimping those connectors and I had to cut the connector that was on the cable to feed it through my intended path. So I just skipped crimping outright. I'm sure the Molex option is just fine, possibly better in the long run. Thanks for the questions and comments!
@germanigortsev1361
@germanigortsev1361 Год назад
Where I can check image of of your printer without X zip chains. Im building new Voron now and maybe skeep some steps with zip chains
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Are you just asking for a photo of my printer?
@germanigortsev1361
@germanigortsev1361 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I found some videos already with UMBILICAL mod its what im asked, I think will install zip chains any way because UMBILICAL not useful. I will install EBB2209 with zip chains
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@germanigortsev1361 That is a good solution.
@Rmilyard
@Rmilyard Год назад
Do you need to flash the u2c v2.1?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
No need to flash the u2c as it comes with the software installed. My video unfortunately states I am about to flash it, but I actually doesnt if you watch it. I’m flashing the actual Canbus board. my narration is off.
@grasstreefarmer
@grasstreefarmer Год назад
Everyone seems to be very excited about canbus tooheads and the reduced wiring sounds nice. I however am very hesitant to move the extruder driver from the basement of the printer into the hot chamber. I run a very warm chamber (actively heated, shhhh, don't tell) so I'm concerned about how long it will live. Am I worrying about nothing? Also, I have over 3500 hours of print time on my V2.4 and I have had no issues with wiring and have not been able to find any appreciable wear on the wires in the cable chains.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
In this case, I don't think you would gain any real advantage to switch to canbus. I certainly would not consider it until your current harness starts having trouble. Canbus adds software complexity. And I agree with you, I would worry about the driver overheating. Some have started to attach additional fans to the side of their print heads to keep the driver cooler. I have not had that problem, but I'm also running a motor that works with very low current and my printer struggles to hit 60c internally..
@really559
@really559 Год назад
Do you have a link to the kit you are talking about in the video?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
If you are referring to the pre-crimped wires, have a look at this video's description. I have a link posted there. I've got links to everything I used for this conversion. If for some reason you cannot get to it, let me know and I'll post something here. Thanks!
@really559
@really559 Год назад
@Kapman's Basement Workshop thanks. I guess after watching the video I thought there was a kit with the umbilical in it. Your videos are really good. I'm inspired to move to sensorless homing, a tap, and canbus
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@really559 I'm sorry to say, there is no kit that I am aware of. But lots of STL.... Thank you for the kind words and comments!
@marsb3306
@marsb3306 Год назад
If you’re using the PT1000 your settings are wrong. Rtd_nominal should be 1000. Reference should be 4300
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
You are correct. I might have spliced the wrong video in. I did actually correct it. I will place a note on the video about this being incorrect. Thanks for pointing this out!
@alvinnoboa8694
@alvinnoboa8694 Год назад
how is going for you? in discord they said that the sb2240 have a problem with undervoltage. thinking to get one
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I have not had that problem. But if you are worried, there is the 2209 version.
@Rmilyard
@Rmilyard Год назад
You have any good pics how wired all up? I am building new LDO 2.4r2 rev c right now.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
it's just 4 wires. 24v+ and 24v- to the power terminals/power supply and then the 2 H & L wires to the H&L terminals on the U2C (or waveshare hat or any other device you choose to use). I don't have any photos. I could take some if needed, but you would need to wait a little while as I'm currently trying to rewire my printer. I have made sooo many changes, it needs some work in that area.
@VACInc
@VACInc Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop 24v- or Ground to the U2C? Also are you jumping it off the power supply or the controller board? (I'm technically out of 24V- terminals but I suppose I could piggyback a terminal already in use
@artemnikitin2806
@artemnikitin2806 Год назад
man, it would be so cool if someone would just release a "no connector" board only with bare solder pads for the fans. also, revo6 hotend has shorter heater/thermistor cables they don't go around the back of those boards and have to splice extensions.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
That's actually a good idea....
@becauseican2607
@becauseican2607 6 месяцев назад
I soldered cables directly to the sb2240
@AdamDeBeers
@AdamDeBeers Год назад
Hello sir, I do have a feeling ERCF video is coming soon, right? 😎 Have a great day.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
It may be an alternative to the ERCF that I am starting to test....Thank you!
@richardclinton8408
@richardclinton8408 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I'm very interested in ERCF or an equivalent so whatever you put together, I'm keen to watch!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@richardclinton8408 I've got all the parts, now I just need some time to build it....
@richardclinton8408
@richardclinton8408 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Story of my life too ha. What is mmu? or are you waiting for the video to reveal it?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@richardclinton8408 mmu? If it was something I said, I most likely managed to mispronounce MCU. I get tongue tied quite often.
@justinsfunthings8263
@justinsfunthings8263 5 месяцев назад
Hey quick question, I am doing my first voron 2.4 build. I bought the electronics for canbus, with the intention of going straight to canbus out of the box and skipping all the cabling and chains etc., but i don't have any printed parts -- are they 100% necessary to get going?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 5 месяцев назад
You can start building the Voron Frame, Install the linear rails, prepare the bed and even install Klipper on the main MCU, Pi and the canbus controllers. But beyond that, you really need the 3d printed parts. They are required to build the gantry and install any stepper motors and just about everything else. The 3d parts are critical. I wish you a great build!
@justinsfunthings8263
@justinsfunthings8263 5 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop to be clear, I meant printed parts for canbus -- I have a complete set of printed parts for the standard LDO kit :) I just mean going canbus specifically, are there printed parts specific to canbus that I would absolutely need?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 5 месяцев назад
@@justinsfunthings8263, Sorry about that. Yes, there are parts that you will need. If using a U2C, you want to print a DIN mount for it, and the umbilical mounts for the tool head and depending on how you choose to mount, the back of the gantry for the umbilical mount. You also need the mount for the canbus controller on the tool head. If you can't print or purchase those, I think you can get by without the u2c mount, but I think you will need to have the parts for the toolhead.
@justinsfunthings8263
@justinsfunthings8263 5 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop gotcha -- i found the parts i need to print. I'm going to throw a hail mary and print them out of PLA+ or PETG on my old printer, which should last long enough to print out the replacements using ABS on the new machine. thanks for the reply!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 4 месяца назад
@@justinsfunthings8263 , go for PETG for the interior parts. The inside of that printer will be between 60c and 70c.
@TheCyclingConquistador
@TheCyclingConquistador Год назад
Have you been getting the undervoltage error, my board was fine for a few weeks now i get this error all the time and i cant print anything?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I have not had any issues with the SB2240, I was having this issue with the XY motors. I'm 90% sure it's unrelated. If you are having the issue with the SB2240, please have a look at this: github.com/Esoterical/voron_canbus/blob/main/toolhead_flashing/common_hardware/BigTreeTech%20SB2209%20and%20SB2240/SB2240%20Stepper%20Configuration%20and%20Undervoltage.md For the x & Y motors, the problem cleared when I slightly lowered the current I had running to the xy motors when sensorless homing (which was quite a but higher than most people run theirs at).
@TheCyclingConquistador
@TheCyclingConquistador Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop yeah i already updated my cfg with Esoterical config but no fix yet, thanks.
@Nick-wl4qr
@Nick-wl4qr 11 месяцев назад
Have you run into the undervolatage error? Seems to be common
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
It does seem to be common. But I have not run into that error on the extruder with canbus.
@errorstudios8014
@errorstudios8014 Год назад
What is that green ABS?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Military Green from Paramount3d
@powersv2
@powersv2 3 месяца назад
Im going to hotglue my dupont connectors.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 3 месяца назад
Are they popping off?
@8BitLife69
@8BitLife69 10 месяцев назад
You didn't show what you hooked up to the U2C. How is it hooked up? I don't understand how there is no guide, or anyone in the discord willing to help.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
I simply used the screw terminals for 24v + and - and the hi/lo signals for canbus. For the 24v, I have the wires coming directly from the power supply and the power wires from the SB cable connected to the same screw terminals. I also have a USB cable from the U2C to the Pi. If you send me a message on discord, I'll take a photo and send to you once a print completes.
@mr.rajikon3911
@mr.rajikon3911 Год назад
Hi, so im installing the sb2240 directly to my btt octopus without the 2209. I can't figure out or find documentation on where to install the canbus cable wires on the octopus... could you please point me in the right direction? Thank you.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I would go to the BTT GitHub and look at the pinout diagram for your Octopus version. I believe this is the pinout for 1.0: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20Octopus%20-%20PIN.pdf
@mr.rajikon3911
@mr.rajikon3911 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop sorry for the billion questions but at 18:59 do you copy the data from the btt github into your regular printer.config file? if so, where? does it matter? do i make sure basic none canbus info for the extruder hot end etc.. in the printer config are deleted before continuing to input the new info? sorry a little confused at the steps in-between the editing portion. hope my question is clear...
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@mr.rajikon3911 All you need to do is copy and past the parts from the BTT file that apply to your printer and paste or possibly update/replace the pre-existing items in your current printer.cfg. Then save and restart Klipper. This can be done from the Fluidd/Mainsail UI. SO for example, your current printer.cfg file has pins configured for your extruder motor. You should comment those out and add the the code from the BTT file.
@mr.rajikon3911
@mr.rajikon3911 Год назад
​@@KapmansBasementWorkshop When you place the sb2240 in DFU mode, do you have the 5v jumper in? Or are you placing it into DFU mode with the 25v canbus plug attached?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@mr.rajikon3911 Have a look at this: github.com/bigtreetech/EBB/blob/master/EBB%20SB2240_2209%20CAN/Build%20Guide/EBB%20SB2240%202209%20CAN%20v1.0%20Build%20Guide.pdf If you follow through, if using DFU mode it shows exactly how to proceed. It depends on if you are using canboot or not. If not using canboot, start on page 33.
@ReneWilsonSC
@ReneWilsonSC 10 месяцев назад
Did you go strictly by the instructions in the wiring? I am seeing some differences in what you wired vs what I see in the instructions.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
I might have made some changes. Many of the switch type and sensing inputs are very flexible in how they can be used. Are there any areas of concern?
@ReneWilsonSC
@ReneWilsonSC 10 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Just the wiring of in general, according to the pdf, the 24v VIN on diagram is far right but the labels say its far left, for probe, it states GPIO, gnd, blank, 5v, blank, but then it appears that you have used the far right three which kinda makes sense to me because it appears that the first pin (from right to left) is the actual 5v. so I am just confused on what the right wiring is for the SB2209 is.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
@@ReneWilsonSC If you tell what items you are interested in, I can come back with where I wired it. Keep in mind, even with my glasses on, I have a hard time reading these depending on the size of the labeling. I might have made a few mistakes, but most pins are pretty flexible as long as they are setup correctly. Also, in some cases, if a wire was not long enough to get where I initially wanted, I will tend to look for a place it can fit. A switch will work on any set of pins as long as it was designed for a switch. You just need to get the correct pins entered for that switch in the printer.cfg file.
@ReneWilsonSC
@ReneWilsonSC 10 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I would of liked to seen the actual wiring part with explanation for instance I see your using the PT100/PT1000 port. What exactly are you using with that? I have a Rapido hotend and I am putting the thermistor in the TH0 slot so what am I missing.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
@ReneWilsonSC The Rapido (what I used) comes with a PT1000. So I followed the SB instructions on setting that up. I won’t be able to take a photo until next week….
@jaredlewis2961
@jaredlewis2961 10 месяцев назад
SO you only edited the make menuconfig for klipper. Did you install canboot as well?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
I did not install canboot. While if it's pre-installed, I'll use it, when it's not, I will just re-flash when needed using my laptop.
@jaredlewis2961
@jaredlewis2961 10 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have been working on getting the SB2209 setup over the last two days and think I may have a bad cable. When searching for the UUID, nothing is found and also when putting the SB2209 in DFU mode, the Pi doesnt see it.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
@@jaredlewis2961 Sounds like your USB cable might be power only and not a data cable. I cannot remember if the SB came with one, but I would try that 1st. If not, use the one that you know works from your cell phone or elsewhere.
@jaredlewis2961
@jaredlewis2961 10 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop it was the SB2209 board, it was bad. How did you connect the CanBus cable to the U2C?Picture would be great if possible.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 10 месяцев назад
@@jaredlewis2961 I used the screw terminals on the U2C. But there are many other options as well. Instead of slack, I’ll post a photo on my GitHub and post a link here…once this print completes….
@theamzngq
@theamzngq Год назад
Question: how would this process be different when using can hat RS485? I had it configured to use a HUVUD controller and I'm making the switch, but not sure how to proceed with the can hat...
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I also used the can hat from waveshare in my 1st canbus video. I don't think it would really be any different. Just make sure the canhat is configured to run as fast as the SB22XX and you should be fine. You will still need to build and download the software onto the SB22XX just as you would in this video, but configure canhat as you would in the previous video making sure the speed settings match. If you are using an Octapus, you might want to try eliminating the canhat and just connect the SB to the Octapus. Thanks for watching!
@theamzngq
@theamzngq Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop trying to flash via my computer and USB-C, but no dice. I wasn't able to see the SB22XX in the lsusb command, so I'm trying this way, but getting "failed to download" error...
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@theamzngq If you cannot see it using lsusb, it must not be in DFU mode. Did you hold down boot and while holding boot press the reset button on the SB?
@theamzngq
@theamzngq Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yes, and both LEDs are lit. When I was trying via the PI, it's only connected to the can hat via the can H & L wires, no other connections. Should it still be visible? Also, I noticed that when I power it off and back on, both LEDs are already lit...should that be?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@theamzngq I think I'm going to take my words back. I think you going to need to connect a USB-c cable from the SB22XX to your PI to program this properly.
@pdongy
@pdongy 11 месяцев назад
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've gone through three of these on exchanges and I can't get any of them to show up with the lsusb command😢
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
I would check the following: 1. Test the USB cable with your laptop and some other external device to make sure it good and works with data. Some are only for power or broken. 2. Did you flash Klipper onto the SB2209? 3. Is the SB2209 powered? 4. If using a u2c, is it powered? 5. Try rebooting the PI Those are the only issues I can think of where this might go wrong.
@pdongy
@pdongy 11 месяцев назад
@KapmansBasementWorkshop The sb 2209 won't show up, so I can't install Klipper on it. That is the issue. The only thing I can think of is that I installed something wrong on the pi. I also noticed I don't see my main board through Mainsail anymore, I think my problems are a little deeper than a bad cable or hardware
@vitaly182
@vitaly182 11 месяцев назад
очень полезное видео, и все по делу! а где файлы скачать для печати?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 11 месяцев назад
I think this is what you are looking for: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/STLs/Clockwork2/%5Ba%5D_pcb_spacer.stl
@vitaly182
@vitaly182 11 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop спасибо большое
@noelh.5182
@noelh.5182 9 месяцев назад
Is it possible to connect two sb 2240 boards at the same time?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
Yes, it is. One of the key benefits of canbus.
@noelh.5182
@noelh.5182 9 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thanks for the fast answer. I am building a Voron Tridex with two printheads. So it’s good two know.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
Sounds like a fun build!
@alidaf-YT
@alidaf-YT Год назад
Is this compatible with Voron TAP?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Yes,it is. In fact, in the video, I’m using it with tap. TAP connects directly to the SB2240.
@alidaf-YT
@alidaf-YT Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for that. Does the TAP need to be 24V or can the 5V one be used?
@smithrb
@smithrb Год назад
Howdy, great video. I've setup my SB2240 the same as you, but I have a PT100 vice the PT1000. But my klipper fails to start with the following complaint: "TMC extruder failed to init: Unable to write tmc spi 'extruder' register DRV_CONF". I use a different name than you use for "can0". Mine is "SB2240" instead. My PT100 is 2 wire and the dip switches are set accordingly. Any idea what might be wrong on my end?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I don't believe this has anything to do with the PT100. In looking up the register at TMC, it seems related to the Motor driver chip on your extruder/SB2240. I don't understand exactly what the problem is, but this is what I would look at: 1. Make sure the pins you have selected in the printer.cfg file for the extruder motor are all correct. 2. Make sure 24v power is connected and you can measure the voltage on the extruder end with a volt meter. 3. If both 1 & 2 are ok, then power off the printer fully. Shut it down gracefully and then unplug it and any other external power connections you might be using such as possibly an external power supply to the Pi. Wait 5 or 10 minutes and then repower & restart and see if it goes away.
@smithrb
@smithrb Год назад
More info: I commented out the below, restart, and Klipper reports "pin PB13 is reserved for spi2" [extruder] step_pin: SB2240: PD0 dir_pin: SB2240: PD1 enable_pin: !SB2240: PD2 rotation_distance: 22.6789511 #Bondtech 5mm Drive Gears gear_ratio: 50:10 #BMG Gear Ratio microsteps: 32 full_steps_per_rotation: 200 #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.75 heater_pin: SB2240: PB13 sensor_type: MAX31865 sensor_pin: SB2240: PA4 #spi_bus: spi1 #rtd_nominal_r: 100 #rtd_reference_r: 430 #rtd_num_of_wires: 2 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 250 max_power: 1.0 min_extrude_temp: 200
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@smithrb Ok, so here is my extruder section: [extruder] step_pin: can0: PD0 dir_pin: can0: PD1 enable_pin: !can0: PD2 max_extrude_only_distance = 101 rotation_distance: 22.71559155358142 gear_ratio: 50:10 microsteps: 16 full_steps_per_rotation: 200 nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.75 heater_pin: can0: PB13 sensor_type:MAX31865 sensor_pin: can0: PA4 spi_bus: spi1 rtd_nominal_r: 1000 rtd_reference_r: 4300 rtd_num_of_wires: 2 min_temp: 10 max_temp: 280 max_power: 1.0 min_extrude_temp: 200 pressure_advance: 0.028 And then my 2240 extruder section: [tmc2240 extruder] cs_pin: can0: PA15 spi_software_sclk_pin: can0: PB10 spi_software_mosi_pin: can0: PB11 spi_software_miso_pin: can0: PB2 driver_TPFD: 0 interpolate: false run_current: 0.40 hold_current: 0.30 stealthchop_threshold: 0 Does your tmc2240 extruder section look like mine?
@smithrb
@smithrb Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop It does. I confirmed both sections between yours and mine. I get this after a restart: MCU 'SB2240' shutdown: Thermocouple reader fault Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the config, and restart the host software. Printer is shutdown
@smithrb
@smithrb Год назад
The way I read the BTT EBB 2240 Manual (PT Table on Page 7) regarding PTs is that for a PT100, the switch settings are 1 on, 2 on, 3 on, 4 off. For a PT1000, (which I do not have) the switch settings are 1 on, 2 on, 3 off, 4 on assuming you have a 2 wire PT1000. 1 off, 2 off, 3 off, 4 on if you have a 4 wire.
@vitaly182
@vitaly182 8 месяцев назад
можете выложить printer.cfg файл настроенный?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 8 месяцев назад
Absolutely. github.com/Kapman1/Sensorless...
@vitaly182
@vitaly182 8 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop спасибо большое! да благословит тебя бог 3д печати, да будет твоя печать всегда прекрасна! 😇
@chriswoods9857
@chriswoods9857 9 месяцев назад
Im confused. You never shown where to plug the board from the head to the u2c. I cannot find on the BTT GitHub page which port it needs to be in. There are a few to use. Both of the lights on the canbus board on the print head are on as well...i cant get it into boot mode. Grrrr this stuff is never as easy as people show it on RU-vid lol :) I am learning little by little each day tho!
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
I went back and looked and you are correct. I don't. I simply used the 4 screw terminals on the u2c. 24v to the u2c screw terminals from the power supply and the 4 conductors from the canbus cable from the SB also to the same screw terminals. I hope this helps.
@chriswoods9857
@chriswoods9857 9 месяцев назад
Thanks! I have been working on it all night. Haven't went to bed yet. Now I can go back to that step and complete it. Thanks again!
@vhopesanddreams1064
@vhopesanddreams1064 3 месяца назад
I cannot get this to work. I get "no such device" when i run the canbus query
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 3 месяца назад
I would guess a bad connection or canbus isn't running. Since this video came out, there is now a really good guide out there. Have a look at this and follow it through from the beginning: canbus.esoterical.online/
@user-go5kt3tn6g
@user-go5kt3tn6g 9 месяцев назад
Hello, counld you please help: I am building almost the same config: octopus v1,1 + u2c + ebb 2240 I have already flashed u2c, also katapult (canboot) klipper is flashed on octopus and pi4b (no config yet). When octopus is connected to pi4, ls /dev/serial/by-id shows me serial. But when I connect like it is shown by BTT: from octopus to u2c USB A and from pi4 to u2c, ls /dev/serial/bu-id show no serial. Do yo uknow how to fix this? Thanks
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
Just making sure. In my case, I connected octopus (spider in my case) to the pi via usb. Then I also connected the u2c to another pi usb. Then connect the ebb or sb2240 to the u2c via a 4 conductor cable.
@user-go5kt3tn6g
@user-go5kt3tn6g 9 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Got it, Thank you for explpanation. Btt has some fiferrent connection method, their picture shows to connect as I mentioned Octopus with u2c and pi with u2c, but is is not working. I will try your method.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
@@user-go5kt3tn6g I believe this method is better. More reliable and provides more bandwidth overall.
@user-go5kt3tn6g
@user-go5kt3tn6g 9 месяцев назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop you mean that method tha tBTT offers? I have found how to make it work, I suppose
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 9 месяцев назад
Yes, compared the the bit illustration.
@mr.rajikon3911
@mr.rajikon3911 Год назад
Is the orange pi4 compatible with this setup?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
It should be. I see no reason why it won’t work.
@mr.rajikon3911
@mr.rajikon3911 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop 4:18 i cannot locate this "card adapter" on the voron stealthburner STl site. could you please post a direct link to it? is this required? i have everything i need to start this build but this part.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@mr.rajikon3911 I would say it's required. Here is the link: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/STLs/Clockwork2/%5Ba%5D_pcb_spacer.stl
@jamesash7368
@jamesash7368 Месяц назад
I can't even count the amount of times I've tried to get onto a netwprk.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Месяц назад
Hopefully just your own.
@Arek_R.
@Arek_R. Год назад
So it's designed specifically for SB but then doesn't come with standard revo voron heater/NTC connectors? Shame...
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
I think it’s purely a space issue. The standard connector is very large and SB doesn’t have the space. So as designed, it fits right in with no modifications or printing of new parts. It’s really nicely designed for SB. So while I found crimping the connectors tough, I’m not trying to say anything really negative as they probably made the right trade offs here as with any design. Honestly the quick disconnect of the SB face plate and the tons of expansion it provides and greatly reduced wiring are big wins. Thanks!
@Arek_R.
@Arek_R. Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop You're right the connectors e3d chose are big
@owned323
@owned323 3 месяца назад
The new version does, wired up my Rapido V2 PT1000 no prob and no crimping needed.
@lukas20073
@lukas20073 Год назад
i bought one
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Have a look at the tip at the end of the video if you have not installed it yet. Thanks for watching!
@lukas20073
@lukas20073 Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Hello only received)
@davidbucek
@davidbucek Год назад
This video is weird and for some users confusing 9:31 connected u2c via usb-c in DFU mode... compiled fw etd and then set BTT board to DFU and flashing ...weird why? :)
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
You are correct. I just went back to that section and reviewed that video. There is some weirdness in that section. I did not actually flash the U2C. I connected it to the Pi via USB-c and then flashed the BTT main board, not the U2c. In fact, I never flashed the u2c. The video shows the correct path, but my narration isn't correct. I need to put in a warning and need to figure out how to overwrite the video with a corrections.....
@davidbucek
@davidbucek Год назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thank you for this, your videos are very nice and simple. It probably must be also connected 24V for flashing or jumper on BTT can board, this isnt mensioned i think.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@davidbucek Yes, I had it connected to 24v through the canbus cable. The manual does not state this explicitly, but it assumes it as well.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@davidbucek One more thing. The manual states that Klipper does not support the 2240. But it seems to now as I used Klipper and not a special build. The code was merged into Klipper from BTT by the time I installed this.
@antivanity
@antivanity Год назад
Glad i found this thread, i also found that very confusing and came here for comfirmation. Thanks.
@SirValak
@SirValak 5 месяцев назад
Anyone having issues with EBB SB2209 CAN with to high temperature? It runs around 85-90c and the chip is rated to 85c. My pankake extruder motor stops extruding around 10hr prints. It simply stops extruding no error, no clogs.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop 5 месяцев назад
Is it possible to drop the current to the motor slightly? Or install a larger heat sink on the motor driver chip? I have not had this happen to me.
@SirValak
@SirValak 4 месяца назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop it must be something else on my machine
@SirValak
@SirValak 4 месяца назад
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop good idea, will try and add a bigger heatsink
@gjmi72
@gjmi72 Год назад
I have an interesting problem. I installed the sb2240. Now the can bus communication randomly fails while probing when heatbed is pwm powered. 230v heatbed switched with a SSR. When 0% or 100% no issue. When pwm controlled, most times I get a “communication timeout while homing”. The canbus cable does not have shielding, I suspect there is some interference. Might also be the MCU (octopus max ez) I will investigate further, but if anyone has thoughts on this, please let me know.
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Is this using the BTT canbus cable or something else? I previously used an old Ethernet cable that had a significant number of twists. I believe the BTT cable does as well, but I have not seen the inside of that. I have not had any electrical interference so far. Does the canbus cable run close to or next to the heatbed wires? Can they be moved away?
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
Also, some cat5 ethernet cable actually has metal shielding in addition to the twists. There is also canbus cable that is shielded.
@gjmi72
@gjmi72 Год назад
Yes, the BTT cable. It does not seem to have many twists. I will try a shielded cable and/or use a slower canbus speed. Also I’ll hook op my scope. Thanks!
@gjmi72
@gjmi72 Год назад
Signal looks clean on a scope, rise and fall times are excellent, termination is good. Timing looks a bit unstable. But I’m not a CAN expert. I found out that I have a 550Mhz processor and klipper config defaults to 400Mhz. Perhaps that does something. Or the Armbian OS on an orangePI 5 is the problem. Scheduling between controlling pwm and homing….. Many things to check…
@KapmansBasementWorkshop
@KapmansBasementWorkshop Год назад
@@gjmi72 One thought, have you just tried increasing the transmit buffer size? Also, try switching the USB cable to canbus on the PI or to the MCO (if running canbus through the MCU) to the USB3 port. I use a Pi4 and run this through the USB3 port. I have heard that some who don't and use the slower ports have some trouble.
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