This is glorious, been searching for "candle making with soy wax flakes" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Peyaniel Psychological Predominance - (do a search on google ) ? It is an awesome exclusive guide for discovering the trick to be a candle maker for profit minus the headache. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my partner got cool success with it.
I just got back into candle making & use them to heat my cabin when the temp drops. Never thought I'd need heat in Hawai'i, but up around 3000'+ elevation by Kilauea, it's been low 50's to high 40's at night this winter. I love it. The dogs hate it. I got outvoted. So my first batch looked great initially. They pushed up like a choc chip.The temp was dropping when I was pouring. 30 minutes later they sunk below the pour. The wax wasn't very hot, the jars were mid 60°. Came here for a tip & makes sense. Next batch I'll do an afternoon one. Now I'm wondering if elevation or humidity play any part...🤔 Next rabbit hole please 🫤
So the heat does not burn off the top layer of scent that your customer would be sniffing? Hmmm. Poke a whole then do a second pour for optimal cold throw. But hey maybe I'm wrong. Still learning.....
Mine don't necessarily have holes, more like they are all sinking in toward the middle. I used a torch to lightly melt it as shown and it worked! However, my wicks were starting to slightly burn no matter how I melted the wax.
I don't actually get too many sinkholes with soy, that wax does not expand and shrink too much at all which is great. For soy I try to add my FO a little lower just because it takes so long to cool and that cooling time is just time to let scent leak out.
Thank you so much! I need to ask, how many hours do I have to leave my candles dry (soy wax) before fixing the holes? For example, I make candles today and fix them tomorrow? Thank you :)
Hey Jeff! I love your page and follow all your great videos!! Quick question for you....Weve been making soy 464 candles for almost a year...love the wax and make in mason jars 16 oz. The challenge we are having is the candles look great most of them :) ...a few have a sink wholes here and there. We just made a big order for a market we are selling at and out of 70 candles maybe 10 had sink whole so we poked relief wholes in them and heatguned the tops. Now the out side of the jars have wet spots that is just so displeasing looking :( we heated up the jar but the wetspots keep coming back....ugg. For the other 60 candles the jars look beautiful and the tops are super smooth. Long story short if we poke wholes/heatgun those just to make sure there is not a hidden sink whole we are afraid we will have all our candles with those displeasing wetspots on the out side of the jar! Do you think we are okay not poking wholes in the tops of the 60 that look really good or should we heatgun/poke just to make sure? Do you poke relief wholes in all your candles even if they look super smooth on the top? Thank you so much for any insight/recommendations!!
Hi Jeff, do you fix the candles before they completely dry? Thanks for the suggestion to do a brief second blast to smooth the tops. Thank you 🙏🏻 again for all your helpful solutions. You’re a gem!
Standley Handcrafted thanks for your reply, Jeff! I appreciate it. That is what I did earlier today. The second blast for 5 seconds is helpful! I don’t know why I’m getting sinkholes because I do pour at a lower temp. Happy Holidays to you and your family!🙏🏻💗🕯🎄
Thanks for the info, have you tried putting jars in warm water trays as they cure? How about a low level vibration as used in deeper concrete pours, construction background, let me know if you have attempted or heard of these before as I will attempt when weather gets warm as I work in garage. Thank you forwardly.
I don’t think vibration would work as a method. The cratering occurs over time as the inside of the candle is still liquid when the top cools. Vibration wouldn’t affect that. A warm water bath sounds interesting and could work.
Hey I’ve tried Everything you just mentioned: a cooler wax pour, poke with a chop stick, a heat gun ( which always catches my Wick on fire ; (it looks like a used candle after that) …. Interestingly, occasionally one will not have a slump and I don’t know why . …because they’re all poured the same and I’ll get one that doesn’t get a sinkhole… like a minor miracle if there such a thing. My problem is that I’ll pour them in color stripes and if I have to reheat them sometimes the color stripes blur together too much or blur together on one side only which is not very attractive. So , My final fix more often than not is to Simply fill in the Sinkhole with more wax..
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the videos. Could you tell me what size wood wick you use for the 8 oz. jar that you are using? I have learned so much from your video's. I am selling only locally. I have made candles for a long time for just myself, but recently found myself unable to work outside of the house due to an illness. I thought I would lose my mind if I didn't find something that I could do. This fits my abilities and I have family help to do local shows in the Fall. Thanks again, you helped me up my game!
I know this comment is a year later, but absolutely not. I tried a hair blower and all it did was make a mess. There is too much air flow through them and they splatter the melted wax all over the jar, yourself, and everything around it. I ended up just buying a heat gun from Harbor Freight and it works just fine.
As a preventive measure do you recommend just doing this technique to all your batches? Or do you have someone else become a quality control "customer"?
How do I choose a heat gun for this? What temp do I need to get to? Aren’t there ones with different temperatures, or dual settings? Is there any benefit to having a dual temp heat gun?
Well, not sure what to say about this suggestion to warm the candleholder first before pouring. I put my jar in the oven at 170° for about 10 minutes just to heat it up. Took it out and poured my candle solution into the warm jar. The result looks awful. I still have dipping all around the candle it is not smooth on the top. UGH....
Hi, thanks for the awesome videos! You've helped me get started in candle making. I have a question about the IGI 6006 parasoy wax. I've made my candles with this wax and I tested my candle by burning it, but after I've burned it for the first time there's a weird texture at the top after it's cooled down. Is this normal?
For some reason I can't post a picture, but I was thinking it might be from burning the candle for too long? After its cooled after burning it looks like craters at the top of the candle.
I heated a jar with left-over candle wax, took it out of the water and stuck the wooden wick in there. I came back the next morning and there was a sinkhole so big I saw spelunkers in there. So there was no pouring and the jar itself was hot from the bain-marie it was in. How do I prevent these?
Wouldn't it also be a good idea to have them cool slowly? Like put them in a warm place or put a box over them? I'm trying out this wax and that is what I have found that has helped. But I'm having Wick issues. Could you tell me the best wicks for these? I know CD wicks are good and the https
Thanks Jeff that's very helpful. I'm thinking about switching from GB464 to IGI6006 and I learned that sink hole will be a problem. This video is just what I needed. Do you recommend a mini heat gun or a heavy duty one?
I might have a sinkhole in mine. I'm also seeing separation from the glass. Should I just completely melt my candle down and let it cool as slowly as possible over a radiator overnight?
No not at all. I made a video showing the heat gun on top for several minutes and the candle still had great hot throw. You won’t lose much oil at all.
When I fix my sink holes when using GB444 wax, my wax melts and slides down in between the candle and jar. Then it really makes the candle look awful. Am I heating the top too long? Or am I waiting to long when the candle is curing?
So I did what you suggested with the heat gun but now they starting to look like they have these crackling lines in them with these frozen look 🤦🏾♀️ I have no idea on how to fix this matter. Please I need your advice 🙏🏽
Standley Handcrafted I used the candle science golden brand 464 soy wax and the black dye cubes I don’t know if I used too much color dye for it but when I did the same for my tin candles but the time time I tried it for the glass jars they just look crazy 😕
Do you have a recommendation for temps? I’ve read about some crafters heading to a certain temp, putting at a certain temp and cooling at a controlled temp. I’ve poured fast at high n low temps as well as pouring in layers and I always get sinkholes and air bubbles. Super newbie, I’ve mostly combined old candles together with new wicks before I spend $ on wax and supplies. TIA!
@@GhanaGirlLovesChrist hi it worked but it takes a bit of a time and you have to put it on high heat lowest fan and a bit further from your candle or iT will make a huge mess
Michelle Sills Thank you so much! I use HTP wicks in one jar and I absolutely love wood wicks. I prefer the ones from Lone Star Candle. Both work great for IGI6006
Hi there! Quick question. When you are using this heat gun, are you ALWAYS using the high setting (or at least when this video was shot)? I am looking to purchase a heat gun and am flooded with options. Any help you can provide would be appreciated! Thank you
Ahhhh ok! Thanks! I’m using an LX18 wick in the 8oz jelly and I love it but want to add the wood wicks to some of them. Do you know how if I would have to wick up (wood wicks that is) if I use them in 100% soy candles?
You can't exactly just poke holes in candle that your planning on sailing....Don't do that ...just do it the right way. If your pouring and cooling is good this won't happen..
@@ElizabethDermody That’s incorrect. Harder waxes will have sinkholes and even pouring cooler you still need to check for sinkholes. This particular wax being one of them. Especially in taller or narrow jars. Poking holes exposes them more so you can fill them in and make them 100% for sale.
Many thanks, I've been looking for "candle making party" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Cenadoelyn Candle Contemplation - (search on google ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my friend got cool results with it.
Do you heat your jars before pouring? I am testing this by putting my jars in warm water before pouring at 65-55 degrees. The warm jar has 0 sink holes and a neat finish. The other two look like hill tops😂😂
