Hi Paule, nice video. The slight reduction of sharpness on the edges is probably not the speedbooster, it's the lens. Obviously you are using the whole lens and even a bit more as its 0.95 crop so the lens will always be a little soft especially wide open. When not using the speedbooster you are only using the central part of the lens which explains the sharper results. I use this adapter with my C70 and its amazing.
Excellent review and as I was watching this I was thinking "the 24-70 would be great with this," and then you showed the IS test! Haha. Love it. Thanks for this video
Hi Paule, great review and thanks for doing a detailed review. I'm still waiting for my Canon Speed-Booster ... Products take a while to get to New Zealand 🤪
I used the Metabones 0.64 XL for a while and it is also very good. The only issue I had was when the lens was under f2.0 it would cause a really odd soft focus look. Otherwise it was fine.
Excellent video, you touched on all the important points. I recently got this as well for the Komodo, and I am very happy - more light, wider fov for 4k 60, and IS / auto focus is great. 16-35 F4 lens works great
Hey. So I really like the idea of a 24-70 but I would like to have auto focus as well as in body stabilization as I do music video as a one man team and a lot of handheld work. I can’t for the life of me figure out which lens to pair this speed booster with on the Komodo that fits that criteria and has usable auto focus as well as stabilization. I was aiming towards the Tamron but quickly found out the auto focus doesn’t work with this adapter. I could really use any help at all! Also budget isn’t really an issue for me but I don’t want a cine lens. Thanks again and amazing In depth video!
Thanks mate. So honestly don’t use the Komodo AF for professional work. It is not reliable. For talking heads ok but with movement and different lighting the AF will struggle. If Budget isn’t an issue hire an AC on your jobs ☺️
Hello! I'm using the Canon Mount Adapter with my Komodo, pairing it with the Canon EF 16-35 Mk III F/2.8.. while zooming in with the lens it decreases exposure. This is super frustrating and I'm trying to figure out why this would be the case on a constant f/2.8 aperture lens. Any info would be helpful thank you!
I’m already working on it. I didn’t want making it too early. First of I wanted to shoot some projects and wanted to gather experience with it. But it should be online in February ☺️
Hi Paule, I want to use this with the Irix 45 mm T 1.5 - It's a big and heavy cinema lens, about 1.1 kg or 2.4 lbs, so I'm mainly concerned about the sturdiness of the mounts. I mean both the RF mount on the Komodo itself, then the other two mounts on the speedbooster. What is your take on this?
How are you getting a lesser crop in 4K mode ? A Focal Reducer reduces the focal length of the 50mm x .71 and now the 50mm is like 35.5mm. If you had used the 35.5mm lens you would get the same. Why do you have to use a lens and make it wider with a speed booster where you could just use a wider lens - Unless your goal is to get more light or brighter image !
4.01 - look at the difference in the way the face is rendered on full-frame - much flatter. Thanks for not saying the speed booster makes it full-frame. Nice review thanks.
I think that given all of the money in the world, this would be my go-to camera combo. You essentially get an ultra-portable Red full frame camera with autofocus and global shutter and compatibility with 3rd party accessories for under $7K. I hope Red releases a successor to the Komodo so that the Komodo drops a tiny bit more in price so that it's within my range.
Great review but there is one mistake. You coomparing corners in speedbooster to cropped wide lens. It's obvious that it has much softer corners than center of the optics. I think corners are not that bad if you compare to other ff camera. This is limitation of the lens itself.
Hi Paule, thanks for all these videos, good evaluations and your videos are on point with issues that help in making decisions about this equipment. This is more of a general question than related to the focal reducer, although touches on that. I have used an EOS R for a while and am very happy with the image quality. I just purchased the C70 to use as a master shot for interviews in multi cam setups with my EOS R and I feel like the C70 image has more of a flat feel to it and just doesn't have the separation of the subject from the background that I get with my EOS R with the same lens and the sharpness of the image is a bit lacking, so when I switch back and forth between the angles it just has a different feel to it that is a bit disruptive. I know some of this is related to the Super 35 vs full frame sensor but I'm wondering what your thoughts are concerning cutting in footage from the R6 and the C70, do you find the feel is different? And do you feel that the speed booster helps with making the footage more similar looking? Are there settings that you use to help if you use the camera in this way? From the R6 clip you used in this it does look a bit like the same difference. Any insight you had would be appreciated if you can speak from your experience with this. Thanks!
Hi Mate, I’ve used the R before and I think it does a lot of in camera sharpening which can’t be turned off. This is why the c70 or any Cinema camera looks softer since professional film cameras don’t do this. This way you have the flexibility to add sharpness in post to your liking. You can get the same DoF with the speedbooster yes. But hands down the c70 is a much better camera compared to the R/ R6 in terms of image quality and also how “organic” / “filmic” the footage of the c70 looks. The mirrorless cameras always look very digital
@@pauleporterdp Great, thanks for the explanation. After using these cameras I'm kind of used to the look/feel. Haven't really had any experience with the Cine cameras. Good to know. Look forward to your future videos!
I'm wondering what about if you need NDs? you'll take like screw on filters? Cause Matte Box will probably result in reflections that you don't want between the 2 glass elements. It feels like I would go with the Kippertie Revolva for NDs but then, no Focal Reducer... thoughts?
In your IS test section you said you were using a Tamron 24-70? Was this the Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2? I ask because i would like to get this lens but several people have posted on facebook saying it does not work on komodo?
Thank you for this informative video! I purchased the Canon focal reducer, partially based on this video, and couldn't be happier. That said, I have to ask you: Does the autofocus work for you on the Komodo with the Tamron 24-70mm F2.8 G2? I have that lens too, but I'm having a hard time controlling it from the Komodo or using it with Autofocus on the Komodo, both with the stock adaptor supplied with the camera and with that Canon focal reducer. For me, both the Tamron lenses (24-70mm + 70-200mm) and the Tokina 11-20mm F2.8, are stuttering when Komodo tries to control them wither through Autofocus or when driving manual focus through the Red Control app. I wonder if you are having the same issue.
Thanks man. Yes exactly it depends on the lens. My tamron AF doesn’t work at all and doesn’t matter with speedbooster or without. My sigma and canon lenses work great but the tamron doesn’t. Not sure what’s the issue but I think it’s the communication with the lens. I don’t have any other lens from another manufacturer to test. But as said canon and sigma works great.
@@pauleporterdp thanks. I spoke with Red today, and there might be good news coming soon via firmware. In the meantime, which lens do you recommend more (in terms of sharpness and overall quality) the Canon RF 24-105mm F4, or the Canon RF 35mm F1.8? Is one of them noticeably sharper?
Definitely the 35mm since it’s a prime. But there is the question do you want best image quality or maximum flexibility. :) Thanks for the info about RED :)
@@pauleporterdp I want a lens that will intercut seemlessly with my Tamron lenses, and those pack a lot of character through imperfect optics but still manage to be very sharp. I'm not sure if the 24-105 (Canon RF version) will be sharp enough to intercut with the Tamron 24-70mm G2 and 70-200mm G2, and the new Tokina 11-20mm. From the samples I saw on RU-vid, it seems sharper than the older EF versions of the Canon L 24-105 F4, but still, kind of soft. On its own I don't mind it, but unsure as for how it will intercut with my other lenses.
This is my question. Do we have to buy a ND filter for this as well or can we use the ND that I bought with the EF adapter on the Komodo? I bought the camera with that adapter w ND Or does this stack onto the canon EF adapter?
Great vid! I decided I'm going to build my whole kit one thing at a time based solely on your videos. If you never do a video about tripods, I just won't ever get one but I'll pretend like it's my "aesthetic choice".
this focal reducer + a 24-70 f2.8 L EF (and no IS), or a RF 24-70 2.8 IS for a red Komodo (and I'll be likely moving to a canon photo body to use the lens for both photo and video)?
@@pauleporterdp I'm wondering which would be better for me on a red komodo, an EF canon l 24-70 and a focal reducer (the one shown in this video) Or, a RF 24-70 L with IS