Hello Robert, Excellent, methodical, and well executed videos. Allow me to emphasize the paramount importance of properly discharging the capacitor(s), especially HV/flash caps. This is a common problem for the DIY repair... whether its for a Canon camera or any other piece of equipment. The biggest danger is when a capacitor (especially HV) improperly discharges (intentional/accidental) surging the board. The results are unpredictable and usually catastrophic especially for the ic/chip components on the board(s). Your discharge setup is simple and effective (to reduce the heat part go with a higher Watt resistor). You can also use an analog meter in DC volts setting (set scale above the cap max volt rating) Apply the probes with proper polarity as you did with the resistor/diode jig. Here you can watch is surge up and back down as it discharges. FYI, DMM's have very high impedance inputs analog meters (non FET) do not, the higher the impedance the less loading on the circuit. When in doubt just check it out your meter's input impedance spec. Have a fantastic day... keep up the awesome videos. :-)).
Thank you Les. Those are great great points about using an analog meter to discharge a capacitor, and also the difference between digital and analog meters. I appreciate you taking the time to explain it. And I'm glad that you like the videos! -Bob
Hi Robert, just wondering if you know how to fix a canon 60D that wont turn on but keeps flashing an empty battery button? The batteries are fully charged and from canon. Do you know what may be the issue that I need to repair? Thank you.
Hi Robert, very helpful video. My 60D needs a shutter replacement. Its been sitting in my closet for nearly 2 months now, without a battery. Would I still need to discharge it before working on it to be safe? I mean I would guess that after 2 months with no charge it should be without any power. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Hi Robert First of all. Thank you for the great videos and the screw schematic diagrams. Super helpful. I never handled resistors or voltage reading meters. Did you solder the LED and the 10K resistor yourself? Where can I buy the LED discharge resistor? I see that you have an online store. I actually don't mind buy it from you if you could make one for me. It saves the hassle of figuring it out and buying stuff I am not familiar with. Thank you!
Hi Robert. I have the 60D and when a flip the LCD display, sometimes the screen menu don't flip together, getting upside down. Do you know wicht the problem could be?
Hi I am looking at purchasing a damaged canon 80d. The top iso display LCD is broken and I believe I need to replace it. Does this video still apply to the newer 80d?
If you are changing out the glass over the top LCD then it should be the same process. This video shows how to do that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NFTMTU3Ye2M.html
Awesome videos, and those diagrams are just perfect. I had to disassemble my 60D for some repairs. I've re-assembled it, however I'm now having problems with the LCD swivel screen; it won't close properly! It seems as though the back panel of the camera isn't sitting quite flush. I've tried resetting it, but no luck. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hi. Yes, I had the same thing happen to me one time. What I found out on mine, was that I had to loosen the end piece on the camera that has the audio/video connections on it first, and then put the back piece on. With the end piece loosened the back piece will seat correctly. After the back piece is on you can tighten down the end piece. It worked on mine anyway. I hope it fixes yours too. -Bob
hi there robert .. oonce again i've i question … to discharge the capacitor could i simply conect any 220 volt equipement ? like a flasligth that conects to a 220v source ?
Hi. Any resistive load will work fine as long as the resistance is high enough. I would think at least 50 ohms or higher. If the resistance is too low, then you may cause damage to the capacitor. Don't use an incandescent bulb. They generally have a very low resistance when the filament is cold. Don't use a device that has a DC input, because that means it is most likely is connected to some kind of electronic components inside the device, and you could damage those components. If the input of your 220V flashlight is off of a power pack that has an AC input, then I would say it would work fine, because the power pack would most likely be a transformer. If it doesn't use a power pack, or it isn't an AC input, then I wouldn't use the flash light. One test that could help determine if something that you want to use to discharge the capacitor has electronic devices inside, is to measure the resistance in both directions. If they are the same, then it's probably a transformer or some other kind of resistive load. If the readings are different, then it probably has electronic components connected to it, and you don't want to use it.
@@Thebobfactor Hi there .. once again I've to thank you for the answer .. I'm following your video from the 60 D repair to the rules and it's amazing how it's easy to do it by following it. The flash light it's a rechargeable one .. I've looked inside and definitely had a transformer/ battery inside but it passed by a small circuit with a small led bulb that indicates it's charging .. I don't the right tools to know if the resistance it's more then 50 ohms but I think it will manage the discharge.. even it damage something inside that's no problem. Thank you so much once again !! By the way .. I'm doing it my self cause I've call the canon center and the costs will be about 220€ .. the camera costs me 150€ one year ago and the blades I've paid 4,50€ .. so it's worth trying. Cheers
@@Thebobfactor you're to kind .. latter on I'll definitely need your experience cause I'll need to clean my optical viewfinder .. but for the moment I've still so much to go through .. thank you so.much
hi robert, i have canon 60d with something weird cases, there's nothing error message on camera, but, the shutter button stuck at half mode (AF), so i cant change setting on LCD display, because on half mode (AF) the LCD goes dark the camera still working normally for taking picture, but i cant see the result directly it's not LCD blank, the LCD work normally, when i shut down the device, it's still appears "cleaning sensors" message when the knob mode i switch on video mode, the LCD work normally, and also it can record the video i've change the battery and lens, but the problem still occurs can you analyze, what part should be changed? i will purchase certain part at your direction, and i will try to repair by my self by learning your videos. thanks in advance, robert!
Is it acting like it is trying to focus when you get this error? If so, this error can happen if there is a problem communicating with the lens. Try cleaning the electrical contacts on both the lens and the camera body. If it still doesn't work, then try taking a picture with the lens in manual focus. If it works in manual focus and not in automatic focus, then it's possible that the lens has a problem inside. Try using another lens and see it that one works. Let me know what you find out.
@@Thebobfactorsi ya he probado con otro lente y hace lo mismo, osea de cada 50 fotos 25 no salen por que aparece el cartel BUSY, tengo dos cámaras iguales de las cuales ya le prove el otro lente y hace igual
@@robotledredproducciones9995 If the busy message appears while you are taking a picture, then it may be the SD card that is causing the problem. Try a different SD card and see if that fixes the problem.
@@Thebobfactors lo prove pero no ma a solucionado al 100%, mejoro un poco pero como si fuera el problema del socalo de la memoria, voy a tner que enviarla a service oficial
@@robotledredproducciones9995 Ok. I'm sorry you couldn't get it fixed. If you could let me know what the service center finds out what the problem is, I'd sure appreciate it.
I haven't worked on an 80D, but if it's similar to a 60D, then you should be able to. On a 60D the speaker is just held in place with a small sticky pad, and it's easily removable.
I would guess that they are similar, but I've never worked on a 70D before and I don't know how closely related they are. Sorry I can't help you with that.
@@Thebobfactor I finally repaired the 70D. It was different. Some more screws and a lot of more cables. I used your first and half of the second video. From there I jumped between 2-3 other tutorials. I managed to replace the shutter blades and get everything back together (besides 5 screws who live outside now). I never thought my camera would even start up. Turns out everything works! I havent really tested if the images a clear and sharp (but seems so). I am really bothered about the five screws. But I think some hold everything in place still. If anyone bothers to work on a 70D make sure to take a picture after every step. Specially with every connector cable since the front will provide you with one empty connector and you might think you missed something. You didnt. )
I have put a voltmeter on the capacitor ending as in your video and a pop and a flash later killed the camera which I found out after 6 hours of finishing the curtain replacement and reassembly. I have basically short circuit the capacitor by putting a voltmeter on it to check the charge. Now I don't know if a flash board replacement Is enough. Very disheartening. Apart from that great screw schematic.
Short circuiting the flash capacitor is never good. You don't need to use a meter on the capacitor at all, which has large test probes and makes it easier to cause a direct short circuit. Simply using the LED/Resistor assembly which I demonstrate in the video, would be better. The leads on it have a fixed spacing which makes it harder to cause a short circuit across the capacitor. However shorting out the flash capacitor across it's main post does not necessarily damage any of the other boards, or the capacitor itself. What is the camera doing when you turn it on, if anything, that makes you think you damaged a board? Replacing the curtains means you had to disconnect almost all of the flat ribbon cables. Double checking the flat ribbon cable connections would be the first place to check. The cable shown at time stamp ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_-gQbCM7QMw.html is very easy to put in backwards if you disconnected both ends of it. Next, check all of the other connectors on the boards. There are many of them and it's easy to miss one. Let me know what you find.
Robert Hosea hi Robert I have jumped the gun a bit because I hadn't put the battery lid back on. Now the camera turns on but with the error 20 message. Since it is the shutter what I had replaced, am thinking maybe I did something wrong, or bought a dud or maybe missed the cable to the shutter engine which I doubt. At this point I'll have to reopen it. Do you know much about the error 20 from your personal experience? Nice chatting Oh yeah I didn't cause a direct short instead simply put positive to positive and negative to negative at which point it made quite pop and spark. My voltmeter has 3 input for cables configuration, I wonder if that has something to do with it (the negative cable was in the COM port).
Yes, I sure have run into error message #20 before. Once when one of the curtains on the shutter was torn and it would randomly hang up. Error #20 is a general error that indicates a mechanical error. So it could be the shutter, or the mirror, or the flash popup motor, etc. All of these types of mechanical actions will send feedback to the main board. So if the connectors for the motor for the mirror, or for the shutter are disconnected, you will also get that same error. So double-check all of the connectors. Many times that's all the problem is. Did you just replace the curtains on the shutter, or did you replace the entire shutter assembly? If your meter was set to read amperage (current) and not voltage, then that would definitely cause a short across whatever you're reading. And would cause a loud pop when reading a charged capacitor. If that is what happened you may have also blown a fuse in your meter. I've done that more times then I can count. So, it's just something to check.
Robert Hosea good point about all the mechanical parts. I wasn't brave enough to change just the curtain so I had bought the whole assembly. Sounds like amp setting on the meter is the cause of the short circuit. So do you think the capacitor is fried?
It would depend on the charge of the capacitor at the time that it was shorted if there was any damage caused at all. Most capacitors can usually handle a few direct shorts, so there's a good chance it's fine. You will know right away after you have the camera running on whether it's good or bad, just by testing the flash. Most capacitors "open up" when they are damaged, so testing it by turning the camera on shouldn't cause any problems with the other circuit boards. I've tried changing just the shutter curtains out once. Just once. That was enough for me. Lol. After that I just change out the entire shutter assembly. It's so much easier and dependable that way. Plus it doesn't really cost that much more.
Hello Bob, I watched both your video’s I must say, a very good explanation. I repaired a lot of camera’s, also the 60D, but with 2 of them I left with the same problem. Perhaps you have enough experience to solve this problem. Both give an error message when inserting a new battery. It says “cannot communicate with battery”. Do you know how to solve this problem? I already cleaned the flatcable that is screwed to connector to the sensor pen of the battery, but with no result. I also tested with a mainboard of a camera without this problem, but the error stays, so it is not related to the main board. Regards, Bert Branje
Hey, thanks for watching my videos Bert. I'm glad that you like them. I actually did run into that very same problem with the battery communication one time. But, because I was trying to (unsuccessfully) track down a totally different problem with that same camera, I never did go back and figure it out. I did determine with a multi-meter, that it wasn't in the flat ribbon cable that runs from the battery connection to the circuit board on the bottom of the camera. The continuity from the battery connector to the pin on the end of the flat ribbon while it was still in the connector, was reading 100% good. And I compared that with the same readings from a working 60D. So, I figured that since I had been working on that camera so much, and handling it so much, that I must have damaged one of the other flat ribbon cables that tie into that same circuit. That's a total guess though. If you haven't already checked the continuity between the battery connection and the end of the flat ribbon on your camera, it may be worth checking. The pin on the end of the flat ribbon that runs down and connects to the battery connector is on the opposite side of pin #1. Pin #1 is indicated on the ribbon. And that's good to know that you were able to eliminate the problem being with the main board. Maybe since the flat ribbon cable for the battery monitor runs directly to the bottom circuit board (the flash board), you could also try changing that board? The only other part that I can think of is the short stubby flat ribbon cable that goes between the bottom circuit board and the main board. It's easy to install backwards. And if is, it will cause the battery indicator on the top LCD to start flashing. But, nothing else works either when that happens. So I doubt that is your problem. If I ever figure anything out on this, I will sure let you know Bert. And please let me know if you have any luck figuring it out. Bob
Hello Bob, you were right with your suggestion: the short stubby flat ribbon cable that goes between the bottom circuit board and the main board. There was some corrosion on a few contacts of the ribbon cable. I changed the ribbon cable and the battery indicator was working again. Thanks.
I am at the 4 minute mark and I am wore out just watching you. May I call you doctor ? I mean surgeon. Absolutely amazing to me what you're doing. Yes I did subscribe and hit the bell. Keith
hi i got a question Robert, i have a broken 60d which i want to turn into a little light bulb socket, how can i SAFELY discharg the voltage stored inside the camera? it does NOT need to function afterwards! I just dont want to get shocked doing it and i am a bit scared because i got shocked before taking apart a camera as a kid.... any tips? i dont have a small led and resistor like you used in the video. is there any way to discharge with household objects? i was thinking of just dropping a piece of metal onto the positive and negative pin? Thanks in advance! (also i have no experience in anything with electronis....) Have a blessed day.
I wouldn't short it out directly without discharging it. You can use pretty much anything to discharge the capacitor first, such as a 12v light bulb (not LED), or single light bulb from a string of lights, or anything similar. The resistor and LED work well because you can see the capacitor discharging. And if you're careful you can also remove the circuit boards without going near the connection points for the large capacitor, which stores the power for the flash. There should be a piece of factory installed plastic covering the capacitors solder joints on the circuit board.
Thank you for your diagram and also the full detail video. I also intend to take a part my 60D and replace a shuttle set because of the err20. Really appreciate it
Thanks Robert for some really awesome videos! I'm stuck in my troubleshooting and wondering if you have any pointers on where to look next? My 60D got water damage from when I was out in some heavy rain. I got the flashing empty battery symbol on the top display, so I thought I just needed to charge the battery and get on with it. I did that and was able to get the camera to turn on and shoot some pictures later that day. But the focus button was still wet inside and it was hard to trigger a picture. But after a while the camera shut down completely and all I would get was the flashing empty battery symbol. I dismantled the camera following your videos and when checking the power board I got only 0.8V and found some water damage, so I thought "Yes, that's it!". I ordered a replacement board but when it finally arrived it also showed the 0.8V at first and I still only got the flashing empty battery symbol. So I redid the measurements on the old board, and suddenly it was showing the expected 7.4V and everything. So now I'm back to square one, and I have no idea how to continue trouble shooting. I've measured the backup battery and it shows 2.36V, which I think is ok? Do you know any other measurements I can take, to try and figure out if some other board is broken? Our could it be that the focus button is broken or something? Nothing happens when turning on the camera, except the flashing empty battery symbol on the top LCD. And the symbol keeps flashing when I turn off the camera, I need to remove the battery to get it to stop flashing.
Hi Isac. The flashing empty battery icon can be a tough one to troubleshoot for sure, because it can be triggered by so many different things. The most common is the the power board, which you've already addressed. Something else that will cause the flashing empty battery icon, is when one of the flat ribbon cables are put in backwards. The cable that will cause that problem goes from the bottom board to the main board, and it can unfortunately be re-connected backwards. But, if you only disconnected the one end of that cable from the main board and didn't also disconnect it from the bottom board, then that won't be the problem. Here's a link to the video that shows that particular cable being disconnect from the main board: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_-gQbCM7QMw.html . Other then that, I would have to say that it's looking like a main board problem. Sorry I can't be more help.
Thanks for quick reply! I stopped dismantling the camera when I reached the power board, but think I'll continue then check if the main board has water damage as well.@@Thebobfactor
I am having trouble finding the parts to make the LED resistor mainly because the resistors are not measured in nolms. Can you provide another description? The descriptions that the local supplier has are all like this RES 5.6K 1W 5% CF.
Hi Kathleen. The 5.6K means it's 5600 ohms. The K represents 1000's. The 1W means it is a 1-watt resistor and it will handle more heat then the resistor that I used, which was a 1/4 watt. So pretty much any wattage from 1/4W on up will work. The 1-watt will work just fine. The 5% is the tolerance value. It just describes how close the actual resistance is, compared to what it says that it should be. So, a 5.6K resistor with a 5% tolerance could actually range anywhere from 5320 ohms to 5880 ohms. See if they have a 10K 1W resistor. It doesn't matter what tolerance. If they don't have it, then anything close to 10,000 ohms will work. You could even connect two of the 5.6K resistors in series for a combined total resistance of 11,200, and that would work just as good. It will just take slightly longer to discharge the capacitor. And using two resistors in series will take up more room, but that's no big deal. Let me know how you make out with it.
Thanks so much for these, Robert. I'm currently dismantling according to your videos. Can I ask you for some advice? My Canon took a swim -- about five seconds -- in some creek water that may have been a little bit brackish (because the tides had started to feed into the creek). The camera -- a Canon 60D -- turns on, but reads "Err 70." The lens works fine, and I have a replacement memory card and battery, so no issues with any of these. A repairmen quoted me at about $250 and said there could be future damage, so I'm going to throw a Hail Mary and see if I can fix it myself. I haven't removed the circuit boards yet, but everything looks dry and non-corroded. Many people online recommend bathing it in clean, freshwater. So my current thinking is: 1. Continue to remove circuit boards. 2. Flush the insides out with fresh water to hopefully remove as much salt water as I can. 3. Dry it in rice. 4. Give everything a good cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. 5. Reassemble and give it a try. Would you recommend a different order or operations? (PS: Great idea with the printed sheet to keep track of all the tiny screws.)
Hi Ken. I'd say you're on the right track there. But, don't use any water on it all. If there is any grit or sand on the CB, then use low pressure air to remove that first. Then use a circuit board cleaner spray which will evaporate quickly. With the CB cleaner you won't need to use any alcohol. An Err-70 is an "Image" error. So that could be a wide variety of things unfortunately that range from the CCD to the SD card. Was the camera turned on when it got wet? If so, then there will be a higher chance of damage to the circuit boards. Getting it completely dried out will be the first step though. Then you will know more about what's going on with it after that. Good luck with it and let me know how you do with it. Here's a link to some CB cleaner that's on Amazon. There are a lot of different brands out there though. So anything that says it will work on circuit boards should be fine. www.amazon.com/RENOWN-CONTACT-CIRCUIT-BOARD-CLEANER/dp/B00PM8TYXE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505529958&sr=8-5&keywords=circuit+board+cleaner
Thanks Robert! Good to know--I will not be using water then. The camera wasn't on when it fell into the water, but I did turn it on soon afterward, not knowing that that was something I shouldn't do. I'll buy some of this CB cleaner. I'm sure it's sufficiently dry by now. The spill was more than two weeks ago. The insides so far look great, so I'm worried I damaged the circuit breaker. Will let you know how it goes...
Hey Robert. Here's my report. I dismantled the whole camera and looked for corrosion. The insides looked clean except for two small parts. There was a tiny bit of rust/corrosion on bottom right foot of the SD Card Circuit Board Shield. Just a millimeter or two. Same thing on the right bottom corner of the shield for the Main Circuit Board. I cleaned everything as well as I could. (The corrosion didn't come off all that well with my circuit board spray, but it doesn't seem hugely important because they're just shields, right?) I turned the camera back on and I'm afraid it's acting worse. Before, the LCD screen worked (at least it communicated an error message). Now it doesn't. The ISO/Drive/AF display would read "err 70." Now all it shows is an empty battery symbol, even though both the batteries I use are fully charged. When I put the battery in the camera sounded like the shutter was acting wacky. Just kind of fluttering. I'm afraid I made my camera worse! But it was through no fault of your own--these videos are fantastic and easy to follow. Any diagnosis based on the symptoms I've described, or is it kaput?
Hi Ken. I don't think your camera is done yet. It sounds like there is moisture somewhere on one of the circuit boards. Possibly (and most likely) under one or more of the IC's, which are the square multi-pinned objects on all of the boards. You will need to dry the boards out completely using warm air. The components on the board are very sensitive to heat though, so don't get them hot at all. I have dried out boards by placing them on a forced air heating duct for a couple of hours. That method works well if there is moisture under one of the IC's because it may take a while to completely dry it out under an IC's. Give that a shot and then try it again. Let me know what you find. Good luck!
Hi Robert, great videos. One question, I have to replace the USB connector which has become loose. ( I tether it to the computer for astrophotography by cable) Which boards must I remove to get to that one? Thanks in advance.
I believe you can get access to the screws (4 of them total, 3 long screws and 1 short screw) that hold the circuit board down,by just removing the front, back, and the end cover. After disconnecting the speaker and microphone connectors, you will need to disconnect the large connector shown at time stamp 4:28 and also the connector shown at time 5:00. Both of these cables are connected to the multimedia board that the USB port is on. However, in order to free up the cables so that they can come out with the circuit board, you must remove the main LCD display, because the cables go under it. There are only four screws that hold the base bracket down for the LCD display though, and it's pretty straight forward. In addition to the screws for the multimedia board there are also two plastic alignment pins that go through the board, and you will need to lift the board up to clear the pins. There should be enough clearance between the top of the pins and the part of shutter box assembly that goes over it. I "think" that's what you would need to do to remove the board. Lol. Hopefully there aren't some hidden steps along the way that I forgot about. Good luck with it. Let me know if you have any problems.
so real thanks to this vid. you was missing a section to take out top LCD but i figured it out. i cleaned LCD panel, buttons, and was blowing every were in there. every thing looked clean so i put it back together. i lost 1 very small screw that went next to mic port, oh well. installed battery and now completely works. sweet. just after i ordered new 6D.
Good job Derek! I'm glad you were able to get the camera working again. I did start working on the top LCD repair video a few weeks ago, just haven't finished it yet. Hopefully soon though, along with a few others on different parts of the camera. I'm glad this video helped you out.
Hi Robert, I got to see your amazing precise and clear video's because I was looking for a similar video about dismantling the body of a D60 similar to the one I saw for a D7. But I see this is a bit different with bigger back and front housing than the separate bottom of the D7. The actual problem with the camera I have (and how I got to these D7 videos) is actually that the battery is not communicating with the camera software. I remember I had some warning on the back display a bit before this problem actually shut down the camera altogether. I saw it was a possible loose screw inside the camera holding the motherboard (? Sorry, I don't know the names of the parts exactly) in place, as this seemed to solve the problem for the D7 examples that I saw. The issue with my D60 is a fully charged battery not working and the display on the top of the camera has a flashing empty battery icon. I had the body checked with new fully charged batteries in a camera shop eliminating possible problems with the battery. The camera just won't turn back on. And is totally non-responsive to the on and off switch. As long as the battery is inside it keeps flashing the empty battery icon. Would you know if there is a similar solution to this problem with the D60 as with the D7? Or something else I can do myself to fix it? I am not afraid to open it up. just would like to know where to find the solution if I can up front. Thanks for your videos, I love seeing the inside of the camera and learning how this works. Appreciate any tips on this matter!
Hi. MixMoves, I've never worked on a D60. But, I would definitely suspect either the power board first, or the main board second, as being defective. I have seen that same blinking battery icon on a 60D, and it was due to a defective power board. I did have one occasion where my 60D camera wouldn't power up at all (but no blinking battery icon there), and that was simply due to a defective SD card. That was a pleasant surprise when I figured it out though. A quick look on eBay shows the power board costing around $67. But, I also see listings for working D60's in good condition at $62 w/free shipping, which would give you access to all of the parts needed if you wanted to try to figure out what the problem is with your camera. I've done it that way before quite a few times. But, then there's also been times when I did that and I ended up with two non-working cameras in the end. Lol. I'm sorry I can't be any real help to you. Let me know what you decide to do, and how it works out for you though! I'll be happy to help if I can. Good luck with it. Bob
Thanks so much for such a quick reply, Robert! And yes, I did mean it's a 60D... sorry about that mix-up. I saw some other video's where they were addressing a small pin related to shutting the battery lid that needed to be placed to the left. I don't really see how that would be the case on my 60D though. If it is the power board, is it easy and worth while to replace?
I doubt it's the pin on the battery door, or the switch that the pin pushes on. The camera won't come on at all when the battery door is open, but it doesn't display the flashing battery icon. At least not on any of mine. When it comes to power boards, it's always kind of iffy. Because the power board itself my have just quit on it's own. Or, it may have gone out because another board, such as the main board,, went bad first and shorted out the power board. Replacing the power board itself is fairly easy. Its just getting to the board that's time consuming. Here's a link to the location in this video that shows removing the power board. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_-gQbCM7QMw.html. In the video it shows removing the main board and SD card board first. But I don't think you would need to remove them in order to change out the power board. Something I've been planning on doing, is making a short video that shows how to test the voltage levels on the power board. That's something that could help you out here on determining if the board is good. Do you have a digital voltage meter? If so, I could make the short video and upload it. It might take a day or two though to do it. Bob
