I bought mine new in the early 80’s and still have it. My wife and I used it on a trip to Berlin shortly after the liberation from the Soviet Union. We took over a dozen rolls of the deserted streets in East Berlin. Life there had not yet returned to normal. It was surreal. Thank you for a great review?
Here’s how I shoot in manual mode… I commit to an aperture - F8 for example. I look through the viewfinder, hold down the preview button on the left, and adjust the shutter speed until F8 shows in the meter. It’s really not much different than metering a Leica M6 with the exception that you have to hold down the metering preview button. It’s easy once you get the hang of it.
I found an A-1 in excellent condition a few months ago. It came with the Canon 50mm f/1.4 lens. I do love this camera. The only issue that I have right now is getting the film developed. By the time I get prints back (4-12 weeks), I’ve forgotten the conditions and settings that I used for each shot. It makes it hard to relearn this film stuff. Unfortunately, developing at home isn’t an option right now. Great information. Thanks for sharing.
Really wanted an A1 in 1979 when I was 19 but at that time I couldn't even afford the box it came in! Ended up with a Zorki4 with Jupiter 50mm f2 lens. Turned out to be a good thing as it taught me all about the relationship between shutter speed, film speed, aperture, depth of field and so on. I think if I did have an A1 I'd have just left it on full 'auto' being a lazy teenager!!
I think shutter priority was important because reportage and street you could keep 1/500 consistently; however, I do still like the A-1 better. From experience, just picking it up and looking at it I felt it was more feature rich.
Reportage and street tend to go the other way around hence the history of the saying 'f8 and be there', as it gives you enough depth of field to get most shots using hyperfocal distance to pre-set your focus. However, it's always down to what works for the photographer.
I got one of these back in 1980 and still have it. It did start to suffer from the Canon cough after a few years and had that repaired, and now it is on a shelf complete with the 5fps motor drive I got for it. A year later I got the FTb-QL as a second camera body and, since I prefer using manual most times, that one became my camera of choice when doing landscapes or portraiture. I still have that one too, it's on the shelf next to the A-1.
Excellent review, thank you Gideon. I bought mine in excellent condition in 2015, used it only once very successfully and have brought it out to ginecit another go. This time by reading the manual first the came across your excellent video. Now I'm ready to go. Thanks again.
Excellent review. I bought one with the FD 50/1.4 lens at a boot sale for £45 not so long ago and it is in great condition, though it does cough at some of the slower speeds. When I first got it I felt a bit intimidated by the controls, but as you say, it is surprisingly easy to use. Keith
I really enjoyed your educational video along with your valid opinions of the A-Series Canon cameras. I used the A-1 back in the late 70’s and like most photographers, I moved over to digital, which I still enjoy with my 5D Mk2. Most recently I picked up a Canon EF and have been enjoying it along with my A-1. Both tend to make me slow down and put more thought in my photography. I’m curious about the FTb Canon and may look into getting one, just to add to my collection. Thank you again for your enlightening video.
Great video, I've just bought a mint condition A-1 with the motor wind so really useful for me. The A-1 will join my other Canon collection a AV-1, 1962 Canonet and an EF which has a solid brass top & bottom plate along with being the only Canon camera to a steel vertical shutter.
I still have my A-1 that I bought in 1982 along with a 28mm, 50mm and 70-210mm. The best addition to the A-1 that for me makes it a super handling camera is the motor drive with its 12(!) AA batteries that much improved the ergonomics and gave it a super stable platform with the weight low down and with the 70-210 its a joy to hold. At the same time I also bought a set of Cokin A filters, a Velbon VGB-3 tripod and a medium large Billingham bag, all of which are now in use with my current digital kit - not bad for stuff that is 40 years old? I've not used the A-1 for some time as digital is far more convenient than film but I am loathe to get rid of it because its still good and hold sentimental attachment.
@@gideonliddiardphotography But that is why it becomes more stable and you can pan and shoot much more steadily. My current D850 must weigh close to the same as the A-1, which is one reason I chose it and again the ergonomics and mass make for a very stable platform even with a 200-500mm zoom hand held. The main problem with the A-1 motor drive is the use of 12 AA zinc batteries that die too quickly and you have to be very conscious of corrosion.
5:15 Best battery for A-1 in my opinion is the 6V silver oxide one (V28PX/4SR44). It's a bit more expensive but it holds the voltage much better than alkaline one and these old cameras can sometimes be picky about voltage. For example if I use alkaline battery on my A-1, it might stop working after few rolls but with V28PX it keeps going.
I agree with you. We sold masses of A1’s (& AE1,AE1P) & the pretty much the only trouble we had was people using the wrong batteries. PX28 silver oxide every time
Just bought the A1, awaiting delivery. I noticed the sample shots and as a live music photographer, just wondering what film you used and TV or AV? Great video by the way
Many thanks - the film was Ilford Delta 3200, and I would have shot those using Av with the lens wide open as it was a very dimly lit venue even for the 3200 ASA film.
I was doing a lot of sport photography which influenced my choice to buy the AE-1 (over the AV-1). Later I ugraded to the A1, which gave me the best of both worlds - shutter or aperture priority. Completely agree that the A1 is a much better camera, having more functions. I still have both, but no longer use them, preferring to now use either the mechanical FTb or the later EOS 3.
The A1 was gear more towards pros while the AE1 & Program versions were more for the consumer market and the price difference at the time was around $250-$300 more for the A1. With all thats built in it is what slso makes it better
I love the FTb and the A-1 too, but the perfect combo between those is the Canon EF. You should get one! 😊👍🏻 Lovely videos on this channel. Keep it up!
The EF is a great camera (and it's on the list), the only downside is it's manual and Shutter Priority, if only it was aperture priority it would be ideal.
@@gideonliddiardphotography True. But a few things made me forgive the shutter priority: 1) It is easy to use in manual. Set the apperture and adjust the perfect shutter dial with your index finger while looking int he viewfinder. 2) it takes modern batteries and has a silicone cell lightmeter. 3) It has the tried and tested mule of a shutter - the Copal Square film plane shutter with speeds from 30 sek to 1/1000 sek. 4) It is sooo good looking! 😊👍🏻
Nice video about the a1, I’ve had one a while now and have the squeak. It’s absolutely mint and working great but needs the light seal doing. Any chance for video👍 oh and a mint motor wind as well, not that that will be getting used the price of film and developing.
Excellent review totally agree with your comments on pros and cons, I removed the bottom plate on mine and it is metal on this one, I'm using it at the moment with the 55mm 1.2 Aspherical fabulous lens
Good video. I have experience with all cameras mentioned when they were new. You are completely correct A1 walks all over those others. My best friends had all 3. I was using K1000 at the time and got used to manual everything and went full rogue Nikon with an FM2 . The one genius thing Canon did was put that little screw on grip thing. I actually have an almost perfect copy. Have not run film thru it.
Fantastic review, thank you for sharing! I'm doing some research on getting another film camera. The one I currently have is a Pentax ZX-60 that my dad got me for a high school photography class in the late 2000s (thanks dad!). Totally works, though when I was looking into getting additional lenses for it I found out about its poor lens support. (Though, definitely still keeping it)
The Minolta X700 had similar manual exposure shenanigans. It would show you the speed it thought was right for the conditions, but not the speed you had set. Otherwise a fine camera.
Well. They praise the AE-1 / program cause they’re for more around. The A-1 was more for professional users. Thus less around. So it’s easier to hype a more common camera. Even though I have the ae-1 I love it. But I went looking for a late Eos model. Cause quit simple. I have glass for it. It’s good to see people getting to, or new into film.
I remember in the UK in the late 70's and into the mid 80's this camera retailed for around £200 to £240 which was expensive.I think in Dixons it was their pride of sale.
Beware though, the 40 plus year old micro processors in A series cameras are starting to fail and cannot be repaired, no new parts.. An all electronic A1 with a bad processor is a paperweight.
@@gideonliddiardphotography Had an AE1 - gave it to my nephew. Have since got myself an EF. Fabulous presentation. Once kinda' desired the A1 but no longer - thanks
amazing video. when I put it in full auto, AV ring on A and TV on A it says EEEE EEE inside the view finder. is that normal. just got this camera today.
10:57 On the A-1, if you look closely at the “brassing” on the top, and on the bottom, you will see a difference. The top cover is plastic with a copper coating painted black. The bottom cover is indeed brass painted black. There is a distinct difference in colour between the copper on the top and the brass on the bottom. Older AE-1s also have a brass bottom while most AE-1 Programs and other A series have plastic bottoms. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YAlskPzEVDQ.htmlsi=4gf5y8EkHQwq0464
It's very easy to download a manual and use a light meter to work in manual mode, a good photographer will learn how to use manual based on light and subject, owed an A1 since 83 loads of lenses. who would not want aperture priority, even a pro works in aperture priority.
Something that doesn't seem to get much mention is that Canons are usable by left-eyed people; you don't have to cock the film advance to meter. Anything where you _do_ have to do that just means a lever to the face. Another thing to metering in manual mode: the exposure reading would flash if you were over or under. Only at the correct aperture would it be solid. That way you didn't have to take your face away from the camera. I shot a ton of manual with this camera.
No, in the user manual it explains that “1” is normal exposure. “2” is 1 stop over exposed and “4” is 2 stops over exposed. “1/2” is 1 stop under, and “1/4” is 2 stops under.
@@MikeSowsun I bought an A-1 new in 1983 and never understood Canon's decision to number the compensation dial with 1 instead of 0 like everyone else lol
You should really get your facts straight. The Canon A series were NEVER an issue with mercury batteries, they were from day one intended for the same battery you get now for them. I have had an AE-1 since 1976, same battery. I have owned every other model since and the few that use that battery never had mercury issues.
The A-1 (and A series) could use Mercury, Silver Oxide, or Alkaline PX28s without problem, given that many older 35mm cameras that took Mercury or Silver Oxide batteries can give erroneous meter readings with Alkaline batteries, and I clearly said this isn't the case with the A-1 I'm at a loss to see what 'fact' I didn't get straight. Thanks for the engagement and have a great day.
@@gideonliddiardphotographyI used to get people getting problems with batteries that fitted but were the wrong voltage.Needs to be 6 volt as in PX28 or 4SR44(made of 4 x 1.5v cells)but there is a battery that fits but is made of 4 x 1.35 volt cells so is only 5.4 volts which will work for a short time but tend to result in shutter jams! Less of a problem on AE1 but A1 & AE1 Program I wouldn’t recommend.These guys are getting old,treat them to 6 volt 😁
I sold these cameras from launch & typically the only fault we got with them was when people put cheap mercury batteries in them.They were the wrong voltage (5.4 volts) the correct battery was the PX28 (or 4SR44) which are 6 volt!
