After my grandfather died, my grandmother gave to me his AE-1 program. I still cherish it and take pictures with it every now and then. Videos like this are very helpful to enjoy the camera to the fullest.
Thank you so much for explaining the light meter. Have been looking everywhere trying to find an explanation for how to read it and wasn't able to find a detailed explanation. Can't wait to finally try it in manual mode!
A little tip for new people: the split prism needs a straight line to use for focusing, but it doesn't have to be vertical. Any straight line will do, as long as it is bisected by the focuser. In other words, if you have a horizontal line, turn the camera 90 degrees or if it's a diagonal turn the camera diagonal, etc. Of course, then turn the camera back to the proper position to take your photo.
Just got an AE-1 Program. I learned photography back in the film days but since I've been shooting digital for many years, I have been watching videos about this camera. And this is the best one. Very informative. Thank you.
I just bought a Canon AE -1 Program at an antique store yesterday. It came with an external flash, a zoom lens and a camera bag. It only cost me $60. I just shot my first roll on it. I hope it works.
I have had mine for years, but it's been a while since I used it. This was a great little refresher, I've watched both several times. I used to use this camera (In black) and the AT-1 (Chrome) together, so I could shoot B+W and color film on a trip. They make a great combo. I'm very impressed with your production skills and the amount of time and effort you obviously put into these videos, thanks!
Just shot my first ever film roll with this camera, and this video made me realize I unknowingly took a few shots in (what would be if it supported it) aperture priority mode. So those shots are probably gonna come out kinda bad.Thankfully I took notes after every shot, so I could check if it was really the case! Now I know what to look out for haha. Thanks for the video, it's aiding my newfound hobby :) Btw, as I'm testing this in my poorly lit room in the evening right now, when I am in manual mode, it seems that the LEDs indicating what aperture I should be using do not constantly blink, but you mention in the video that they should be constantly blinking, even if they're not necessarily indicating 1 or 32. For me, only '1' and '32' blink constantly, when I am (rightfully) under or overexposed. But for example, when I look into a bright area and it tells me to use something like 5.6, it will not constantly blink, it just lights up statically. Do you know why that is?
IIRC, the LEDs should be solid if the camera can deliver a proper exposure, blinking if there is either too much light (for f/32) or too little light (f/1) if the camera is in Program mode.
Thank you so much. This is so helpful. I was so intimidated at first but this video explained all details including different lenses. I learned that I have the fd lens! Really cool!
Excellent video. Both part 1. & 2 have taught me so much. I just ordered my AE-1 Program. It’s the black version from Japan. While I’m waiting for it to arrived I’m boning up on how to use it. I’ll probably watch both parts multiple times over the next few days. Thanks.
Hey David, thanks again for this video. I've sent my AE1-P to the shop for CLA since light cell of my Spotmatic is dead. I intend to use the takumar lenses with a M42-FD adapter and I figured out some things. 1) Aperture priority seems to work with adapted lenses since the metal piece that comes out of the rear side of FD/FL/FDn lenses doesn't exit. Let's call this piece the "Aperture Selected Lever" ASL. This ASL moves concidently with the selected aperture and transmit the information to the camera. The shutter speed depends on the preselected aperture but I believe the diaphragm only closes down to aperture when you take the picture (by activating the second metal piece located at the rear side, let's call it the "Aperture Engaging Lever" AEL). Thus, when I use my M42 adapted lens, the shutter speed changes coincidently whether I'm on F16, F5.6 or F1.4 because the diaphragm closes while the camera mesures the incoming light. 2) For shutter priority, I need to mesure light with the lens wide open to know the according aperture otherwise the information would be biaised by the fact that my lens is already stopped down thus impacting the correct light metering Having learned photography on a Canon Eos 550D with a Carl Zeiss 35 2.8, I am more an "aperture mode" photographer so I don't really know yet if I'm gonna love shooting with this camera since I can't know by advance my shutter speed.
@@DavidHancock Yes exactly ! I don't have a FD lens to test it but I guess it is due to the absence of what I called the ASL/AEL system. However, don't forget to mesure the light on full aperture when you switch on shutter priority otherwise the F stop will be wrong ;)
This the absolute best video in detail about the AE1 Program camera that I just purchased. How ever I have a question from video 2 when you explaining about the settings on the lances on the white paper with the circle focus on the right side are numbers as toe explain you mention depend on the setting the light will light up where in the camera?
Thank you! And yes, if I understand correctly, the lights in the viewfinder will provide different information depending on your settings and the light passing through the lens into the camera. A super-simple test is, indoors, point the camera at a wall (in an illuminated room) and then at a lamp. The information ought to change.
Very helpful. I've just learned to always use Program mode. There was another mirror in the bag, but I have trouble changing a razor so that will be for some future date. Besides, I don't know if it's the old one or the new one that's in the camera now. There was one hotshoe flash and one that was very heavy and looks like an observatory. A bunch of filters which must have been awesome in the day. So much to learn but looks like you have thoroughly covered the basics. Thank you. I appreciate my Paint Shop capabilities even more now.
Thank you and that's my goal. I always hope that these videos give a good basic run-down. It can take years to learn everything about photography, but if I can shave some months or more off that learning curve, that's the best outcome of these.
Great video. When in full program mode or shutter priority, I take it we're still supposed to move the aperture ring to whatever the camera is showing it will shoot at? For example, I'm at full program mode and then I see a "4" in the viewfinder. I'm supposed to actually change my aperture to 4, and not just leave the aperture ring on "A", right?
Thank you and with this camera, except in full manual shooting, always leave the aperture ring in A. The camera will control the aperture in program and shutter-priority shooting.
Question regarding an FL lens. So the camera is Canon AE1-P, the lens is 35mm f2.5 FL… I have no problem with manual settings, however the FL lens only works properly with the stop down lever pushed which affects the internal reading not matching with the aperture on the lens… now it makes me confused about my exposure?
It means the light is not suitable for a photo. Either you have too much or too little and the camera can't deliver a properly exposed photo with any available shutter speed and aperture combination.
@@DavidHancock no, but your video made me notice that it was not there. It’s been too long to know what happened. I did find the viewfinder on Enay and it should be here next week. Thanks.
Could aperture priority be achieved by: manually choosing an aperture on the lens, engage the stop-down lever, press the shutter button half way and at the same time look into the viewfinder and set the shutter speed until 5.6 LED is illuminated? In the viewfinder diagram between 26:00 and 28:00, there is a mark at the 5.6. I wonder if performing the steps above and aiming at 5.6 should be done? Any help would be appreciated. Great video by the way!
Thank you and good question. Basically, what you're going for there is manual metering but with added steps. IIRC, Av mode can't be done because you would need the shutter dial set to Program and then a manual aperture, but with that, even in that scenario using stop-down metering, the camera won't use the proper shutter speed. I suspect, with no evidence to confirm this, that something in this camera was designed to intentionally prevent Av mode use.
There are a few possibilities, ranging from it's just kinda jammed and needs a good tap on the side of the camera with your knuckles to there's a broken spring or stuck piece. If there's obvious damage to the camera, like a crack in the housing, it may need a professional repair to restore the function.
@@DavidHancock there’s no cracks or any damage that I can see. After I finish the roll of film I have in there maybe I’ll try to take the bottom plate off and see if I can see anything. Or would I need to remove the top for this?
If the battery is completely dead, the battery check button won't make any sound. If the battery is dying, it will make this sad weak little wahhhh sound. 5:24
I can’t put my lens back on and I think the problem is as you said that the two red dots don’t align, I don’t know how have I done it but do you know how to put them back in place? 🙏
@@DavidHancock thanks for the great information. I am amazed how long it’s lasted even after decades of use. I wish I knew what happened to that small screw near the battery. Never noticed that. BTW. Mine has the very rare Data Bank on the back.
Mine has an issue, every time I try to shoot with 125 or 250 shutter speed the viewfinder goes black and doesn’t return to normal until I advance the film with the lever (with a lil bit of extra work), does someone know why this is happening?
My best guess is that it's a shutter release magnet issue. I'd check with Joe at SLR35.com if you want to have it fixed. He may also be able to let you know what's wrong before he sees it.
Hi David. I have never seen a grid focus screen. Is there a way to show that on a video? There is a standard split screen on my ae-1 program. Just wondering if grid screen would be better since I photograph structures mostly.
Good question. My current camera setup doesn't let me take video through the viewfinder. But this focusing screen is similar to the Canon F-1 grid screen. I forget for sure if there's a clear view of that focusing screen in my recent F-1 video or not (the prism on my F-1 is much different than on my AE-1 P.)
