Loved this video. I’m not a fan of giving up the half-shutter focus and you’re the only one I’ve watched who has a solution that doesn’t give that up. I set my R6II up the way you did except i set up the * button to toggle between subject types, since I want to take more than animal photos.
I commented a month ago on how good this video is and how much it helped. Well, it is a month later and it has changed my photography completely! I just want to thank you again!!! THANK YOU!!!
Really great video. This is the first one I've found that's easy to follow, super informative and at a slow enough pace to understand. A thousand thanks!
Great video! Many thanks! The best I found on the topics on You Tube, 2 hours passed like a breeze, a first for me! Now I completely understand how the AF and related functions work!
Glad to have sat through more than 2 hours of video. Learnt a lot and going to try the three buttons set up for capturing Rugby (school level, not pro). The switch between the shutter button with (Eye AF >> Subject tracking >> Whole area looking for contrast) vs Spot AF / Extend AF without Eye/Subject need some practise. Thank you
Glad it helped! Good luck photographing your rugby games :-) the autofocus on this camera is amazing, so I'm sure you will be quite happy. Remember you can adjust the autofocus areas to fit your needs. Perhaps a vertical one will work well for you :-) I've been shooting my granddaughter's basketball games and found that a vertical autofocus area works well :-)
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!! I’ve been struggling with my AF for quite some time and was convinced my camera was faulty. This video helped me figure it all out and made my camera the amazing camera it was described as!! Can’t say thank you enough!!!
This might be the single most helpful youtube video I've ever watched! Thank you so much! I used to be a wildlife photographer but now mostly shoot portraits, but this video was still so incredibly helpful in understanding my new camera! One question I have (in case you happen to know the answer) is which shutter mode is preferable for portrait photographers due to the bokeh distortion with electronic first curtain?
I'm so glad you found the video helpful :-) I would use electronic first curtain, for that way you will not get any rolling shutter (which are probably not going to get anyway shooting portraits) and no shutter shock (which does occur to some degree with mechanical shutter).
Extremely helpful video, your autofocus settings explanation saved my sanity! I can finally tame that jumping box when I'm just trying to focus on a single spot. 🙏🏻
Very well explained. Thank You for being so patient and explaining in such detail. Learnt so much from this episode. Will watch other videos of yours too now.
New user this month so THANK YOU SO MUCH! Your video is a godsend to me. I'm a nature photographer and just gave up the Sony R10iv so Canon is a steep learning curve (my history is Nikon). But slow and easy and I'm learning (will be 78 next month).🙂
I'm going on my first safari, so I upgraded to the canon r6 mark II and the 100-500 lens. I spent alot of time reviewing multiple videos trying to decide how I wanted to set my camera up. I must have watched your entire video 2 or 3 times with multiple repeats of individual segments; really well done. I'm an amateur photographer and my setting may change with experience but to start off: C2 is set for large slow animals with 1st curtain & H+ ( 12 fps) and C3 is set for fast animals / birds with electronic & H ( 20 fps). I set both the M-fn and red record buttons to toggle AF boxes, so which ever button my index finger lands on, I'll have that feature. My default Af setup is with tracking / eye/ & detection off, so its like a dslr. BUT my af-on button over rides and turns on AF with tracking and detection, so essentially back button focusing. The star button is eye detection toggle. The Af point button is set for Drive mode, so if a situation dictates I can change my fps. Initially turned set button off, but changed to image review ( honorable mention Jared Polin). DOF button is exp lock. Still debating what I'm going to do with C1. Many THANKS for your time and expertise!!! @@lets_go_birding9096
After watching so many setup guides and fiddling with the settings multiple times, I really like the solution you stumbled on The only function missing is the ability to focus and recompose though I’m trying a work around whereby the star button is set to AF OFF, that is , spot AF with AF ON button then recompose, star button then shutter release
If I understood your question correctly, I had the same concern and I customise the star button = "metering & AF start" with AF op = *One Shoot* , Tracking & subject= Off, and AF area=Spot. That's give me and "old school" configuration and allow me to focus and recompose the image.
Such a fabulous, well thought out R6 II instructional video! Thank you. I purchased this camera last April, and even with previously owning Canon's DSLR's, and purchasing Canon's detailed manual on the R6II, I still did not comprehend many of it's features and capabilities. I will be re-watching this video several times but have learned so much already. Can you explain how to disengage the level that pops-up. Everytime I think I have unchecked it, it still shows and is annoying to me. Thank you again, Herb S
This might a new firmware but under “Display simulation” (red 9) there is the option “Exposure+DOF”. As far as I understand the camera ‘prefers’ to keep the aperture open during live view to improve AF and live view preview quality, but it will open the aperture regardless during focusing.
I've watched many of these videos and this is hands down, the best - even though I prefer the BBF method you end with. I love the multifunction button setting. I also have complained that there is no quicker way to change the shutter mode...
Thank you so much! I agree! They should at least have a shutter mode menu in the quick control menu??? Maybe in a future firmware update? Luckily, it's easy to remember "big camera 7," which is where that menu lives :-) big camera 7 also works for the EOS R8, EOS R7 and, if I remember correctly, the EOS R10:-)
Dof button is because the aperture does actually change until you take the picture. Until you press the shutter or dof button, the camera keeps enough light coming in to autofocus,
Thanks Doug! I have been using a Canon 1Dx Mark 2 since 2016 for all photos/videos of my Macaw and Cockatiel family. After watching this video, I think it is time to upgrade. I love the large Canon 1Dx style body, have you tried the Canon EOS R3?
Soooo grateful. Loved your comparisons of AF options, and tracking. I'm about to send my new R6 mark 2 back to canon as the back grounds are in focus, leaving the birds blurred. So disappointed. I'll try things one more time before posting it back. But your video has been great.
I'm glad you found my video useful :-) With regard to autofocus grabbing the background, are you having trouble with birds in flight? If so, try just using a zone autofocus area (specifically, create a medium-size rectangle and use that on the bird), but turn off the whole area screen tracking. You might have to turn off subject detection as well. Get it so the autofocus system does not go out the perimeter of the box you created. Give that a try. This is what I do for Eagles taking off in front of a background that has lots of sticks that looks like eyes. This should help fix the problem. Remember though, you have to keep your zone autofocus box on the target! If the bird goes outside of the box, your autofocus will grab the back of the tree. Good luck!
Good vid, lots of comment which explains stuff. Not just the facts/settings. But a question: - Front Button set for Focus with tracking - Back button set for Focus without tracking. - If you use Back Button Focus, then take the shot will this not then attempt to focus with tracking, overwriting the focus obtained for the back button ?
Good question! As long as you use either the AF-On or Star button (these are the only two that have the "info detail set submenu"), you can choose to start the autofocus, and, Under the Info Detail Set Submenu, disengage tracking (check it and then turn it off), but you must also TURN OFF "whole area tracking servo AF" and "subject to detect" (Don't forget to check it, and then turn it off). Now your back button will override the front button (shutter button)'s attempt to turn on tracking when you take the picture. Hope that helps :-)
@@lets_go_birding9096 Thanks for that. Watched the vid again, and re-did my settings ! Sorry to be pedantic, but you said: “disengage tracking …. but also turn off Whole Area Tracking and Subject to Detect” Whole Area Tracking and Subject to Detect are listed items in the info detail submenu - but Disengage Tracking is not. Did you mean that by turning off Whole Area Tracking and Subject to detect, tracking will be disengaged - or am I missing a setting ?
Yes, of course. In fact they work for sports or any other type of action photography as well. There are few settings that need to be tweaked, but anything from birds in flight to basketball, the settings will work. We just have to adjust your autofocus area (a.k.a., autofocus box, autofocus point, autofocus method) accordingly.
I’ve a question how or where do I change where I have to select my ISO because I can’t find it or I should say when turn or roll my top dial all It appears to do is change my my ISO settings how can I change this please
Hi, I don't understand what you're asking :-) the way I set this camera up (as described in the video) is to have your ISO controlled by the dial on the top of the camera. Turning this, should change ISO. Where do you want to put the ISO control?
Although the EOS R6 Mark 2's autofocus system is way better, if I had to choose one camera it would be, hands down, the R5. Although it takes some getting used to, the autofocus system does work well as long as you don't try to use the whole screen as the autofocus area. I usually use the horizontal box (zone) or, for birds taking off from a tree with a tough background (lots of sticks that look like eyes), then I use the little square box (zone).I'm getting really good with that. The image quality is just amazing with the R5. It just seems to be a notch above everything else - something about those 45 megapixels that can't be beat.