Damn, that is some slick engineering and fabrication on the bell rank shock installation. We all screw up, it is all about the recovery, thanks for video.
Im wicked happy i found you on here. Your skill level is awesome, our tastes are very similar, hell even our ink is close lol. Added you to my favorites for sure. Now i have to go through your library lol
Superb bro 🤙 you got a crazy creative mind! I liked the part where you said if you spend 3000$ on equiptment and tools you can make a 5$ part🤣 l totally feel your pain! But that’s what separates good from outstanding 👊 keep killin it.
Have you put a jack on the front of the rear- end where the driveshaft connects to see if it lifts which will push the drive shaft forward, I say this because when torque is applied to the wheels you create two directions of force, the wheels turn clockwise and the axle tube turn counter clockwise causing the front of the rearend to raise and pushing the driveshaft forward. I guess your angles can adjust for this to prevent it though. I love the design good work …
It’s maybe 1/4” deflection in the pinion and less than 1/2” in driveline travel from bump to full droop. The only movement the pinion gets is from the poly bushings on the one end of the links
What you’re saying is that you’re gonna remove it a year or two later because you don’t like it and you want to save yourself some headache. Sounds like a solid plan.
Happens with every project, you think it’s how you want it but somewhere through the process you think of something better. I’ve yet to build something that I didn’t have a better idea for the next time
It's like a decouple frame point loaded torsion bar system, with a multi redundant mechanic fuse layout. All sorts of failure points before you overload a damper. You could certainly use some torsion bars.
I’m trying to wrap my head around the math/geometry for designing out the cantilever suspension. If I can figure that out, then I should be able to figure out a cantilever gooseneck/5th wheel hitch that is in my brain.
Hola amigo! Usaste cromoly!! Lo usaba yo cuando tenia mi bicicleta GT performer ! Back in the 90's muchas gracias por compartir tu trabajo saludos desde México
Its fine for the peasants 🤣🤣 thanks for teaching me all these cool tricks today. Great video, truck is looking great my dude, ive never seen a cantilever like that. You're like the Bob Ross of metal work 🤣
My uneducated opinion says you need to move the mounting point of the rod closer to the axel not to introduse any extra tortional loads from the exesive lenght of the bracket.
That's a pretty novel suspension design, but I can't help but think that only on key per side isn't going to be enough to handle the load. If you were to hit a big bump it's possible that you would shear that key and loose the suspension on that side. Twer it me, and I'm not a mechanical engineer or metallurgist, I'd put three keys per side and position them so that at normal ride height there isn't a direct, 90 degree, angle of force on any key.
That is my biggest concern, the manufacturer claims the tensile strength if 1/4” key shaft is 53.7k-63.8k psi. At 3” it should be around 150k but that sounds ridiculous to me, a 1/4” bolt is around 1,200 so 1/4 by 3” would be 14,400…. all that being said it’s definitely something that I will watch closely and alter (probably go to splines) if it looks like it might become an issue
Tidy job mate, did you contemplate moving the whole assy more to the rear and connect side to side with a torsion rod as a sway bar, could have had blade connections at each end onto your keyed pin for a simple drop in change of different tortion bars. Oh and grease nipples ? can't forget a couple of them.
@@nocoastmotofab4181 could do possibly the.... 4th? All electric? I'm looking for a new chassis 118ish wb no wider than 50 if you see something down there!!
