Additional solutions to try if still doesn’t work: • How to fix a car with ... Per another mechanics recommendation I lowered the RPM’s back down to 600-700. Lucas Fuel Treatment: amzn.to/3fp5m8F Throttle Body Cleaner: amzn.to/3gXGk17
Additional solutions to try if still doesn’t work: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JAawLB5R9jw.html Per another mechanics recommendation I lowered the RPM’s back down to 600-700.
For the fuel injector cleaner to work you just have to drive the car around and slowly you will feel the car engine start running smoother and the rpm stabilizes over time. The cleaner takes a while to completely clean the injectors. Other reasons your car might have have a rough idle is bad spark plugs. Check them and change them if their bad. Also check spark plug wires for leakage. Hope this info helps
This was the advice given to me by my mechanic after replacing the vtec solenoid gasket and oil filter of my Honda CRV. I am still a bit worried as it might be a back job since the RPM is very unstable when I put it on park and neutral. Is it really normal and should I follow his advice to drive around the car?
Most the time a rough idle has nothing to do with the throttle plate it sometimes the idle air control valve but most the time in my testings it’s either dirty fuel injectors or bad spark plugs. If you hold the accelerometer up to say 2500 rpms then slowly let off and idle not rough anymore that’s usually a sign of dirty injectors holding the rpms high usually blows out any dirt from the pressure of the fuel. Run a cleaner once a week and you should see results. If cars hard to start that’s usually spark plugs the gaps become to wide and it becomes hard for the spark to jump the gap
I've had the same issue for as long as 1 year, when my car sat around during lockdowns. Never had an issue before. Had left this throttle-body screw alone until I seen your video. Gave mine a 1/2 turn, will test it tomorrow and will check back to update. I've done everything under the sun besides this, checked vacuum leaks, replaced IACV, map-sensor, recalibrated the TPS, cleaned throttle-body butterfly valve, changed air filter. But always had my eye on testing this, thank you for the motivation to give it a try.
That stuff actually does work pretty good. I used it on my old pontiac. It was recommended by a mechanic. The rest of the tutorial was interesting. You broke it down pretty good.
Don't ever adjust the idle set screw on a factory fuel injected engine.. they're pre set. That is just a bandaid to a real problem for a poor or low idle.
My friend, when your vehicle nearly stalled; it was at 250rpm, which is dangerously low. The normal idle speed is 600rpm-1000rpm (Depending on the vehicle). Now that you fixed it, it idles at 750rpm, which is normal. Well done👍.
@@DanielAbreu1984 no problem it’s a common miss understanding people see high idle think something is wrong but a small engine like say a 2.2 litre may idle at 1000 rpms that’s normal where say a 3.4 litre engine will probably idle at 600 rpms.
I've tried a lot of cleaners.I got some Berryman fuel injector cleaner and it did very good job Slot better than Lucas and a lot others.I felt abig difference after about 10 miles. You got to drive on the open road after mixing it.Get some Berryman .The best I have found.
May be it can help, car was slow accelerating and rough idle resulting to stall after everytime i drove for few mile and stop at signal or shopping. I checked cleaned maf sensor, throttle body,replaced pcv valve, ignition coils, spark plugs and so on. But culprit in my case was oxygen sensor. So before replacing several parts, just check by removing sensors like maf, oxygen etc and by the way there was no error in ecu or checklight.
Dont overfill ya petrol tank. Stop after first click. Too much pressure causes your Purge Valve to play up causing rough idle. Take petrol cap off to release pressure then put back on. Csr will run fine after.
I think you had, and have a different problem. Idol set screw is the first thing everyone goes for. Maybe high miles and low quality available gas requiered that adjustment. Either way, you made it more driveable. Good job.
@@SoCalDanny Better, but not fixed. Cold weather had me not working on it for a while. Need to adjust the throttle body screw a bit more, and I think that might fix it. Whenever I get time
Is your vehicle an automatic? Should be at 1500rpm when cold then to 1000rpm at full operating temperature. With automatics at or fractionally above the 1000rpm mark in park or neutral, fractionally below when in gear. BTW I own an automatic with that problem of extremely bad to non-existent low idling.
Guys I need help, I had to swap back to my old vehicle since my new one is out of commission. The issue is the old car has rough idle and sometimes stalls, I've taken it into the mechanic five times for the issue, they've replaced the EGR valve, fuel filter, all the fuel lines are good, but it still has the same issue. I have no clue what to do if I can't fix it since it's my only working car and I can't afford a new one right now but it's super stressful driving it since I live in a city where if it were to stall, it would cause a huge traffic backup. Edit- turns out the air filter was clogged
I don’t know if you got it fixed already but try that IAC valve. Really you could benefit from having a diagnostic done on the entire event system and better if I just get a diagnostic done on it first. I know diagnostics are not very cheap it might cost you $100 to get someone to look at it but make sure you get a professional to diagnose it or else you’re going to be throwing money at the problem and you’ll probably end up spending more than $100. Most mechanics especially the ones that don’t have a whole lot of experience they’re really just making an educated guess and when dealing with complex systems you want to be sure.
@@pinknova1301 It turned out to be a blocked air filter, which none of the mechanics I brought it to bothered to check 😑. I only found out after getting an oil change at Walmart and they found it lmao, thanks for responding though
Mine does this. doesnt stall but trys to stall until i rev her. she doesnt so it all the time just sometimes. Trouble is Mass air flow Sensor,Coil Pack,Spark Plugs,Lamda Sensor or vaccuum leaks. Codes should tell you which one./
@@edgar-_-5419 Same with mine. I didn't pay attention to RPMs because it wasn't noticeably different, but it started from jerking every 10 mins while I was driving steady speed on the highway, then it was jerking only sometimes, now it started to die when I am waiting for a green light or idling for few mins. Did you fix your problem? What was it?
Hello my pajero RPM drops below normal when throttle is let go. Sometimes car stalls as well. Changed plug and injectors, changed fuel filter, serviced throttle body. Issue still remains. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gu8evRqCoxc.html&t
I don't know but who told you that 1000 RPM is a healthy idle on park, healthy idle at park should be between 500. To 850, for my car Honda CR-V, but 1000 or even a 900 is too much, because my electric idle valve brooke and gave me that hight idle 850 to 1000, and it was too much for my car till I change the valve
Don't ever adjust the idle screw on fuel injected systems unless you are monitoring the fuel air ratio with a computer and know what you are a doing, this is just plain bad bad info bro.
Do not folks. Dont. Its a shady tree mechanic trick that doesnt solve the issue in the longrun. You want a quick fix on a vehicle on its way out? Sure.. i guess
Please please please don’t listen to this guy if you have a steady idle at 1000-1200 when you put it in gear it’ll bang and grind when you hit the breaks it’ll want to just pull off on you cause at 1000 rpm you can go like 25 if your jeep is dying at a stop it’s electrical or the AIC Or TPS if you’re lucky lol clean your throttle body aswell
