I absolutely loved watching this video. I have watched most of your stuff but this one actually had me dying over here. Love the passion you have for this hobby and that you know your stuff. So many people try to do what you did in this video and fail miserably. Thanks for the good stuff.
Haha thanks so much brother . You and very welcome and Im really happy you enjoyed the video! You are very correct I do have a love and passion for this hobby! Its so much fun!
Great as always brother! Man, I can’t wait to see the Raminator with the Taylor 50! I’ve had this TMR 49 for like 18 months sitting in a box. May just have to get some kind of pipe for it and see what it can do.
This is really good info for me, i just bought the 32cc Zenoah engine and i am about to install it, i will change the fuel to 50/1 ratio for sure, thank you so much brother this really help me. Its cheaper in olie, the enigne will get more fuel so it dont heat up as much, no flooding, more power, from what i can understand this is a win win... Have a nice day Jeff, this video is so good...xD
My dear brother! You seem like such a super nice brother! God bless you my dude! Enjoy the ease of tuning with 50:1 and cooler engine temps! I hope you are having a brappy blessed weekend brother! 🤝🤝🤝⛽️⛽️
Great stuff buddy I really like the way you explained this very much on point. This is some real proper info for new Rc 2stroke beginners and also for those who still need help the help like me 😅😁
Excellent man Im really glad you found it informative. Eventually I need to do a break down of my tuning method with a car in front of me so everyone can hear the actual sounds of to lean and to rich.
@@eastsiderc yeah you did a really good job in explaining it, yeah now you need that video of actually hearing the difference between rich and lean that would be spot on 👌🏾💯💯💪🏾. Great stuff buddy
😆😆😂well thanks bro! I appreciate it! I dont like the rich crackle I like my two strokes to run as crisp as possible! A good ear sets a good tune! Hope you had a Merry Christmas!
@EastSide RC can I ask at what throttle opening the high needle comes into play? I've heard the low end controls the full range and the high only contributes at full throttle, is that correct? Or does the high affect some of the midrange aswell?
Generally the high needle is the wide open setting but yes the low needle works in conjunction with the high needle. I set my low as rich as I can first then I clean up any rich crackle on the top end with the high needle. The low is basically from idle to mid range and after that the high takes over. And the idle should be set to where the the butterfly is just barely open. You should have a nice low poppy idle. An indication of a too lean low tends have a very fast idle aka starving for fuel. And thats not good. The fuel cools and makes power so I tend to give it as much as I can. Running a two stroke lean to make power is a big misconception. I hope that helps you brother
@@eastsiderc this has been one of thee , most helpful advice tips I have EVER recieved in the 7 months I've owned my Losi 5T2.0 everything your saying makes sense ... Sure enough my low ... Was to lean and wouldn't you know it my idle sounded like a dang machine gun just wayyyyy to high ... I've honestly came back to watch this video for the 2nd time . To really just focus on what you have stated ... Brilliant advice especially to ANYONE like myself a total rookie ... Thank you !!!
Ooohwee! Your energy gets me excited to start braapin! Im fairly new to this hobby, so new that i dont own a gas powered rc yet. I made up my mind tho and i wanna start! Electric motors are cool and all, but the tuning of carbs and mixing pipes and fuel mixing to produce more power sounds more appealing to me than just install a bigger motor and change the spur/pinion. Thanks for the tips bro! Cheers from socal🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Welcome to the channel bro! Gas is so much fun I like it best for many reasons but the main one is the sensory effect you get when you hear the engine rev when you pull the trigger!! I can't explain it but its just awesome this hobby is my very favorite! thanks for the great comment I hope you have an awesome new year!!!
Awesome Jeff ain't no Looney Tunes going on there bro!!! What I learned about 2 Strokes is they work on back pressure from the pipe its actually a sound wave that bounces back and creates more power as it builds " resonance " Hence tune so what you saying "Ring ding ding dings" true!!! That's why tuning by ear is the art and like you say when idling you should constantly brap the accelerator or its going to bog when you open it up? Don't know if I make sense but I think you bang on the money Son !!! Thanks bro
Great video I am having issues starting my Roven buggy after checking the diff oil Have reset the carb to std bit ots not liking it Have a good spark but it dont want to know Any thoughts bud
My friend is having this same issue. I would change out the diaphragms in the carb and try a fresh plug. If a plug ever gets wet with fuel and can become fouled . It can still spark but may not be firing under compression.
great informative video on how you tune, i actually like a fatter low needle making space for high needle to be tuned to your/my liking. what i understand but also don't understand is the idle screw.. in what scenario do i have to adjust or set this needle? because all it does is set the idle e.g. lower or higher idle rpm. but setting the idle can also be done with the low needle by giving her more fuel (drops rpm ever so slightly) unless you give her more idle from the idle screw... so what am i aiming for? in regards to me getting the needles wrong or right, i know one shouldnt 'set' an idle based on or with the low needle screw, just to clear that up. im basically saying one can possibly drop some idle rpms with the use of more fuel.
I think I need to do a video on just the idle for people . The idle can be adjusted after your tune has been set. And it’s really personal preference, but you do not want to bury the idle all the way down like I said in the video because that creates a simulated vacuum leak you should adjust your idle as follows back the idle screw out until it is not touching the throttle arm, then turn the idle screw in until it just touches the throttle arm and that’s it. That is your starting point for your idle and you shouldn’t go much further. Hope that helps brother. And yes always set the low as fat as you possibly can and then clean up any gurgle With the high needle. Tuning is so easy and so simple. Soooooo many make it so complicated. And you are correct throwing lots of fuel at the low will bring the idle to a real nice slow poppity pop pop!
What octane fuel do you use? I’ve heard some guys run 110 octane leaded fuel even with lower compression ratio motors. Very informative video thank you.
Nice videos bro well put together. I have a question is the WJ146A good Carb Because that is what I have on my 65 supreme from Taylor to go inside my 30° North.
Hey brother thank you and yes thats a great carb its simply the replacement carb for the wj71 . Brap on bro! Thanks for watching/subbing all that good stuff haha! Hope you’re having an awesome week
I finally got my first 1/5 scale rig today!! Shout outs to Dan at Fearless RC for awesome service. Rovan RTR 36cc I've been watching all your videos especially this one now! Quick question do you recommend the 50 to 1 even for initial break in? You make the most sense to me and your almost Pro Wrestler type delivery...ah man I been watching round the clock. I'm at work now sending this
Brother Frederick first I cant thank you enough for checking out my videos! Second CONGRATULATIONS 🍾🎈🎊🎉 on your very first fifth scale my brother in Christ! Im going to shout you out in my next RC video today! Feel free to find me on Facebook as well under Jeff Lohr send me a private message if you can’t friend request me. I recommend 50:1 yes it will be easier to tune and if you are using a fully synthetic two stroke oil. Conventional oils can mixed at a thicker ratio but 50:1 is superb for these tiny engines and gives you a broader range with the needles. Any help you need please feel free to ask! Thats why Im in RU-vid to help others and share my love and passion for the hobby with others and above all my faith as well when I feel led to do so. This comment made me laugh with the almost pro wrestler style intros and excitement I have 😆😆! I hope you have a super blessed Sunday brother! Enjoy your new 5th scale! ⛽️⛽️⛽️⛽️⛽️🙏🙏🙏🤝
Great tips, I just got into the gas-powered 1/5 scal myself. Broke in the engine Saturday and plan to tune the carb on Friday. What oil are you running ? I eneded up getting the rovan baja 5t terminator.
I use Amsoil Saber at a 50:1 mix. It’s exceptional oil , very slick and adds great protection for the engine. 50:1 makes great power and is very easy to tune with. But you run what ever makes you happy! I also use 112 octane vp racing leaded fuel.
@eastsiderc I'm going to have to check out that oil now that this thing is broken in. Also going to switch to 50:1 mix. Your tuning tips were spot on, I had time to mess with the truck a little today. She is a screamer, that is for sure. I can't rip up my yard anymore, so tomorrow I'm taking it to the park. It's starting to get cold again, so I'm going to have yo enjoy it while I can.
Would you recommend this for vid for turning a carb for a goped? Sorry for the stupid question lol I know it’s the same carb I just wonder if there’s a difference. I just bought a walbro 1242a for my zenoah g290rc
Yes I would bro! These are simply tuning basics! And the 1242 is a good carb for the 29cc. It will have a nice snappy low end when tuned correctly and optimally
First off I want to say what a great channel you have. Hey kind of a newb question but I have 3 red at rampage trucks for me and my twin boys. Love how they are actually. So I just bought a ROVAN 5T terminator. Haven’t ran it in yet. But my question is I live in a small town in Canada and decent fuel is hard to find. Can I run canned vp premixed 40:1 fuel? Thanks in man.
Hey brother thank you very much for the compliment, support to the channel and for considering me to answer your question . And the answer is yes 40:1 is just fine brother. Thats a good fuel too VP. Its small engine fuel and just fine for a stock Rovan and I like your terminology RUN IN because thats exactly what you should do and definitely not idle them and heat cycle them that is 100% not necessary! Im also glad you are enjoying the Redcats with your boys man that is great! I would love to have even one son! Happy brapping to you and your boys! 🙏 🇨🇦 🇺🇸🤝
That spacer is an HPI screw up carried over to the Chinese they are so good at copying they even copy mistakes! You do not need it other than for the pipe to reach the cylinder head. You can modify the bottom exhaust bracket. I like to not use that spacer if I can. It looks like a heat sink but its not really its just a bandaid for a shortened header
Hey brotha, Great video. I got a question ? I'm running the 1107 carb I got the low set just right but I'm haven trouble with the high. Any advice? Feels like it won't hit full speed. The engine sounds like it wants to go more. But boggin at top speed. Should I back the screw out or turn it in slightly. Been playing with it but not fully satisfied. It's for a gsr 40 goped. If you can help me out it would be greatly appreciated.
Hey bro, I can certainly help you with that you did right by setting the low first. If its bogging out that could be too lean so you would need to turn the needle out ccw. If the engine is making a gurgling sound then its too rich and you will need to just bump the needle in cw. Do it in small increments till you get it just right. I hope that helps you brotha!
This video is really informative! Thank you, there’s not much in depth videos out there, ive got a question, ive got a rovan 5b ive got it set to factory settings L 1 1/4 turns out, H 2 1/4 turns out, this is my first 5th scale gas Rc so I know I would rather run it rich than lean as I’m still learning, It seems like my truck is topping out almost like it’s geared to low but it’s stock gearing and you don’t hear much of the High kick in it more or less just sounds like it’s hitting rev limiter but it’s within 30 foot of a standstill to full throttle, it has plenty of pep from a stand still though almost pulls the wheels of the ground taking off, but falls flat on its face. Thank you
And it’s doesn’t cut out or die when it gets up there in rpm, just kinda gets frozen if that makes sense, I’m afraid to go any leaner just because I don’t want to score the cylinder or seize it up, but would it be okay if I went leaner than the factory High suggests?
Hey brother 2 1/4 is way rich! It sounds like you low is okay. So heres what you do. Warm it up and run it and turn that high needle in just a tiny tiny bit at a time until you can hear it get on the pipe on wide open. Your high needle is your wide open setting but the low works in conjunction with it as well. When your low is where its at almost pulling wheelies that should be fine so dial that H needle in clockwise in teeny tiny increments and you will know when you hit the sweet spot. And a little crackle on top is slighty rich that wont hurt a thing it just wont be peak Performance. Have fun try it and get back to me.
@@eastsiderc I plan to test run it tomorrow in some Alittle bit more of an open area, i was thinking it was to rich but was to afraid to turn it lower than factory that was lean I will let you know how it goes, thank you for the fast reply! Your video is about one of very very few that has helped me!
Another awesome video, thank you. You mention that the HDA223 is a better carb for the 45cc rovans. Can I run a pulse line carb without the pulse line? If not, how hard is it to add one?
You need to add a pulse line its easy and the 223 needs to be modded. Allen cestra my engine builder could mod one for you . You will also need an intake as well because the bolt pattern is not the same as the littler guys. He can make an intake and mod you a carb. All you need is his email if your interested?
I run my engines in no idling two strokes do not like that. I use 50:1 all the time first 5 tanks I use castor 927 its a blend and seats the ring fast. Then I switch to fully synthetic Amsoil Saber and thats where my engines shine. ✨ they invented synthetics they are the best!
Hey man. Thanks for the knowledge. I’m pretty much getting my head around petrol cars, expecially the carburettor. I’ve got a 26cc Baja at the moment that I’m trying to get running. Would a wt997 be okay to run in it?. 👍🏼🚗
Hey bro well Im here to help and yessir the 997 would be a great carb for that 26! And that 26 should be a nice high revving engine! And you are very welcome brother! Welcome to the channel! Sharing my knowledge of these RCs is what Im on youtube for and my Sunday deal too. I appreciate the support🤝🤝 Hope you have a super awesome week ahead!
Great video Jeff ! I am new to the rc 1/5 scale gasser and i purchased a 30 degree North DDT-7 with the 38cc motor. I set the carb to 1 3/8 out on the Low and 1 7/8 out on the High. It will run but when i let go of the throttle it will shut off. If i pump the throttle it also shuts down. What should the idle screw be set out ? Thanks and any help would be great.
Hey brother you are sounding a tad to rich probably. The pipe that truck comes with is a power killer so that is proposing issues for you because that pipe sucks! The idle should be set like this back the screw out until its off the throttle arm. Then tighten the idle until it just starts to move the arm and thats it! You dont wanna crank the idle in too far or you will simulate a vacuum leak. If you need anymore help you just message brother Ill do my best to help. If you lean the carb do not lean Clockwise tighten the needle more than 1/4 turn from those base settings! The warmer it is outside the less fuel the engine wants. And the colder it is the more fuel it wants.
@@nickpetrich519 brother, you are more than welcome and yes, I have two recommendations of pipes for that and you can take your pick the olimat pipe design for that platform or the Losi 5t or you can get the Taylor RC pipe for that platform from Detroit performance RC and it’s a phenomenal pipe as well that will really wake up the engine and give it more power .
Normal operating temps at the base of the cylinder should be between 190 ~ 215 depending on your tune , fuel mix, and ambient outside temperatures. Its normal to see 245 degrees at the spark plug because you’re then reading combustion temperatures. Thanks for watching
@@davidmayberry9335 you could add a nice pipe like a Taylor Side pipe or a Rovan rear pipe heres the link fearlessrc.com/product/RV85037-1/ This pipe has the turned down stinger you want the one with the stinger turned up. Dan cannot list those due to copyright the part is rhe same except there is no -1 at the end so you will have to email him if you want that one or specify in the notes when purchasing on the website. You could also run a leaded fuel like VP at 112 octane at 50:1 with premium synthetic oil. This will also give you more power right away and cooler engine temps but you will need to tune it or else it will just be a rich pig smoking all over the place. Same with the pipe. You will need to re tune. As for your air filter and Vstack I would leave that alone on your stock 30.5 because the stock set up allows for a great air speed which in turn equates to more power and torque. I have tested this on this engine. So leave that be. Those simple mods I shared with you will greatly wake up the engine. Especially the Taylor Side pipe which can be bought from Detroit performance RC. The rovan pipe is only 50 bucks and it makes great power as well for being 200 dollars cheaper!!
@@eastsidercwhen I bought it they said it came with a rear tuned proformance exhaust. Is it the same as the one rovan sells for $50. I'd almost assume it is.
Same as 1107 1 3/8 out on the low and 1 7/8 out on the high . So for both setting once you get to 1 1/2 go a pinch more same with the high 1 3/4 out then a pinch more will set you at base settings. Have a great day bro! Dont forget to Subscribe for any more help its what I do here
I’m having issues with my 1107 on a 32cc case reed engine, it floods the engine and can’t get it to start but when I put a 990 on it starts on first pull both carbs are brand new
Sounds like you may have a diaphragm issue. Generally when the carb floods the diaphragm is stretched / has a pin hole , or just defective. Id try a cheap diaphragm change first. The 990’s diaphragm I believe will work in the 1107
Hello my brother. This is a great video. I just got my 1st 1/5th scale gas and it's been a pain since I bought it. Turned out I just replaced the carb 1107 because not even the gas guys at my hobby store could figure it out. BTW it's a DBXL 2.0 32CC motor. Ok here's the issue I'm having, followed what video said to do with carb settings 1 3/8 low and 1 7/8 high I can't get the low set right, it only bogs down and bearly revs up. I'm trying to do what you said on video. Should I go richer or leaner on L so then I can get H set. Any help will be greatly appreciated my brother
Sounds too rich. You wanna make tiny adjustments. Also your engine sounds flooded if you had carb issues before and carb after a replacement your engine could be flooded and in this case you need to remove the wheels n tires or prop it off the ground and clear the engine by holding it wide open. It could also be your low is just too rich! You wanna make tiny adjustments im talking tiny and dont go in-CW-lean more than a 1/4 turn from the base settings. You’ll get it. It takes practice.
@EastSide RC thank you very much for the help. They told me they thought that the diaphragm was bad because it flooded right away. So I replaced it with the spiral one you recommended in another video and still had issues. Took carb apart and cleaned with carb and still same issue so I just bought a new mod 1107 and now it'll run kinda. Yes it was flooded and I followed the instructions from a OBR video and took carb off and started it runs high rpm for split second and now it atleast starts. I had to do the BART tune to keep it running. Could you tell me the factory turns out a 1107 idle screw is? Not sure if it matters but I also have a Bartolone end bleed pipe on it
Nice video But, low speed must be adjusted first because when the carburettor is full trottle the 2 circuits add up. the best way to perfect carburator ajustement is with the spark plug color. The central porcelain that surrounds the central electrode should be medium brown in color. Pale brown = too lean dark brown = too rich. to do this you ride between slow and 1/4 trottle for 2 minutes and you check the color and adjust if necessary then you do the same with hi speed. I've been a small engine mechanic and competitor for over 45 years so...trust me eyes closed!!
You must not of watched the whole thing or missed the part where I said to start with the low first! I always have my whole life Ive been working small engines and dirt bikes for the better part of my life! I love this stuff! And I tune by spark plug and ear too! I feel its the best way! Neither have never failed Me!
Ok so I used ur settings for the 1107 and then I did the no choke thing I prime it then I did a few slow pulls 3-4 maybe 5 n bam fired right up I think I got it just about tuned but then she tried to run away im using the dynamite kill switch with stock servo's N it happened when I was turning think bad Servo I planned on switching Servos out n kill switch anyway
Well excellent Im glad you got her going as for the kill switch be careful with that dynamite its caused some runaways from other folks. The iKilly is a good one but big and the triton one small encased in billet from Fearless rc is a good kill switch to Ive used it a couple time with no issues. The MOD one is good to but expensive.
Right thats no good. If you wanna make max power your two stroke should not sit there and be able to idle for days. You should have to rev it and clear it after it idles for a few seconds. You can tune it to idle it wont hurt a thing. That just wont be an optimal race type tune. Id call that a conventional tune. But running a super fat low will allow you to lean the high some to get to a nice crispy tone. If you are happy with tour tune bro and you aint blowing anything up then let it eat! Haha! Happy Labor day to ya!
@@schmitty_luv no sir I dont believe in 25:1 I only use VP C12 racing fuel with Amsoil Saber oil mixed at 50:1. Thats why my engines sound so clean and run so well because I dont run them lean on fuel and rich on oil. There is a huge mis conception with two strokes and the internet forum know it alls.
@@eastsiderc I understand you use VP race gas but I’m trying to retrofit this onto a scooter, so the best I could do is REC90 with octane booster and 25:1 premix ratio……. I will try the BASE settings you mention in the video for the Taylor 50 on the Rovan 71cc and see how that works, just I wanna be sure because I don’t want to hurt the engine after having spent some time taking it apart and cleaning the filthy internals since it had came with sludge for assembly lube from the factory.
I have a g290 and my low down power is very boggy I have got my low needle set at 3/4 on my L needle and my H set at 1 1/2 my top end power is good but my low end is bad very sluggish can you give me some advice
Hey George, you need to fatten that low needle up 3/4 of a turn out is to lean fuel makes power you want to run your low needle as rich as possible and set the low first then tune the high for a crispy clean sound no gurgling.
@@Bathurst_1000 I have not YET brother but I will be making a video in depth of that soon at my parents so we can all hear the engine make the sounds I describe. Thats why its a must to subscribe haha! 🤝🤝
Thanks brother. I dont have an engine with that carb or that carb but its the same as the rest. Just adjust it in small increments and the base settings for that carb can be found on Taylor RCs website in the 88 manual section. 🙏 Thanks for checking me out bro!
Hi... for hpi baja i change the spark with new NGK motor Zenoah G270 . Oil mix 1/32. set L 1 turn and High 1.5 turn , still flooded and smoking the spark after 10 min of running...any advice|? thx
Hmm all flooded out huh. Its possible the diaphragm under the primer bulb is not good and causing the engine to flood. Once you get this issue resolved, you’re gonna need to hold the wheels off the ground when you get the car started and hold it wide open with no choke and clear the engine out or it will continue to give you major headaches.
@@eastsiderc Thx a lot.....motor is only 15 tanks used....maybe because i was stupid enough to keep the old gas in the tank for 1 year .... and i noticed that on the last period it starts at cold only without choke ....every time i used the choke was flooded and no start until i take out the extra gas from the motor :) ...PS can i be stingy to clean and use the same spark after smoking it?
Jeff I just sub brother. I too just got my 1st 1/5. You seem to carry great experience and worth listen to. In fact you avoid me from attempting the stupid bar tune mistake. Love your “ting-ting ting tating, ting-ting”. 😂 just can you clarified, “Good & FAT”. This mean open to all the way to recommend setting then trim the high?. FYI I pick up a used 26cc. thanks for sharing 👍
Hey brother thanks for the compliment! Im very passionate about this hobby , two strokes, and making power! Ive been tuning a very long time. Good n fat is just running the engine as rich as possible without it being too rich until power is sacrificed. Running two strokes lean to make power is a big misconception. Fuel makes power so givem all the fuel you can brother! Lean is only mean on the engines internals!
Only confusion I had in your video is when you said you usually start with the low needle going big and fat BUT before that you mentioned the 990 low factory settings is ONE full turn. (HPI has it 1, 1/4) So where is Big Fat on the low. I had trouble with my 26cc but after your video I went 1 on the low and 1, 1/4 on the High then work clockwise 1/16 at a time But you suggest going counter clockwise until power is sacrificed?.
@@713Ace529 low yes for the 990 base setting to get you started is 1 turn out , you may need to go counter clockwise or clockwise it all depends on what the engine wants according to all the other factors that weigh in such as air temp/ humidity, fuel ratio and octane rating. So many things play a roll. You have to go by what you hear n see and read the spark plug too it tells a tale of how your engine is performing and burning the fuel! Its the best hobby ever the gas side. I will soon do an in depth vid with the car right in front of me and Im gonna make it make all the sounds I claim them to make haha!
Yes. Sir you’re right about the factors that play around RC. I’m good with nitro just got this 1/5 and it was easy to get the right throttle. I just needed your pointers. Thanks Jeff. I know I have more to learn with this beast. 👍
I just tried tuning my kraken today, and I got it to rip out the gate as u mestioned roosters everywhere lol but I can't get the idol to stay on when I get off the gas and come to a stop now. I also tried adjusting the high and I'm not hearing or feeling a difference any suggestions?
If you have the 32 Zen with the can muffler that could be why and maybe you have not moved the H needle enough to cause a change yet. If you have not touched your idle at all and you feel your low is good then you can try turning it in a quarter turn and see if that helps. If not you may be just a little to rich on your low which is usually the case when slamming the brakes and the engine stalls out.
@EastSide RC no can got the Taylor pipe on it..ok ill give that a try but I feel like I've tried both ways and I would say I went about a complete qt turn out on the low from fact settings does that sound to much ?
Thets the dual ring bro . The dual ring sucks! Everyone complains basically the Chinese messed up a good thing. Take the cylinder off and remove the lower ring and put it back together! Your power increase will be mega noticeable!
rovan 36 engine with walbro wt 1191 carburetor with 1/50 gasoline mixture what statement should I have (how many laps at high and low) Once again, thank you very much, big hug from Portugal 🇵🇹🇵🇹
Starting points for 1191… LOW~1 3/8 out from closed. HIGH 1 7/8 out from closed. You can also start richer low 1 1/2 out and High 2 that may be a little too rich so you can start with the low and make tiny adjustments until you get it right
@@eastsiderc Thank you very much for the information, sharing the knowledge you want in this hobby, once again thank you very much for your time and sharing your knowledge
Hi brother my 35 Taylor doesn't start or even impossible to start it carburettor wt 1107 mod setting taylor H 2T L 1T 3/8 new spark plug nothing nothing ignition good petrol arrives well to the carburettor, engine that drowns but nothing to do!! Do you have any advice, everything is new, brother, thank you👍👍👍👍👍
It may be very very flooded and getting all your new plugs wet. Take the plug out and turn the engine upside down and pull it over many many times to try not to clear the crank case completely. And dont use the choke to start it any more. Once fully cleared, with the choke off hold it wide open and pull the pull start. Once it starts its probably going to chug just hold it wide open with the wheels a little off the ground until the engine clears and revs way up. It sounds like you just heavily flooded it brother. Get me back to me let me know how this works
Can you help me with my new Redcat Rampage MT…I’m new to the gas engine RC cars and trucks and am unsure how to tune them properly….i don’t know what sounds right and what doesn’t
No need to apologize I actually calmed myself down and really listened to your video and got it little by little I got it…Bro you got a subscriber for life 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
I wouldnt say or share them if I wasn’t. You get no BS from me here on this channel! What I share is legit. The base settings mentioned here in the video is from the makers of the carbs Walbro .
Yes sir that would be 1 3/8 out on the low you can start at 1 1/2 will be probably a little rich and for the high 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 . Those are base settings and generally you dont want to turn the needles in leaner than 1/4 turn . However if you start richer from 1.5 low and 1 3/4~2 out on the high then you can go a little leaner for a stock engine. The idea is to give you engine as much fuel as it can take before it chokes. Fuel makes power. Also 50:1 mix will make tuning a lot easier as 25:1 is simply to much oil and to lean of fuel. To lean of fuel is what burns the engine up and creates excess heat. I hope that helps and I didnt dump to much information on you.
@malik-b-khan5964 you will want to use the 2T however if you can get Amsoil Saber and mix it at 50 or 80 or 100:1 and you will have crispy clean tuning and a very slick engine. It out performs castrol bar none! But there is nothing wrong with castrol! Just remember this Amsoil invented synthetic oils they are the lubricity leaders and always will be! Happy Brapping to you bro. Anything I can help you with feel free to ask. You can find me on facebook too under Jeff Lohr my pic is me in a Taylor RC hat n sunglasses.
The HDA223 does need a little switching around of the throttle shaft or it wont work . It also need an adapter style intake as the bolt pattern is different from the 1107 styled carbs
I always tell people that if you're tuning a weedwacker, first thing after getting some heat in the cylinder is to turn your idle screw out until the trimmer head stops spinning! If it's a chainsaw, stop the chain from turning. Then clobber the throttle and if it has good throttle response then leave it right there for your low speed jet. High speed jet has to be adjusted after a cut and you have got the engine to make that beautiful sound we are all looking for and that is when it 2-strokes! And if it is screaming like a fat bitch that didn't receive her welfare check on the first of the month! Then open the H jet until it blubbers ever so slightly at WOT and your right where you need to be. That's telling you it's on the fat side of fuel ratio it's asking for with the air and altitude your at. And I'm a firm believer in the in and out with the least resistance. Anything that protrudes into the air stream coming in the intake side causes irrattic tumbling air enstead of flow and Anything in the path on the exaust side is going to create heat issues! Fuck those Baffles and spark arrestor that get put in the exaust pipe by the EPA! I am not trying to save the planet! I'm trying to make horsepower and I thoroughly enjoy disturbing the peace! I smile to myself everytime I'm heavy on the throttle of my Husqvarna 266xp from Yugoslavia and it's making music and chip are making my boots disappear under a pile of them, and you know that nobody within a five mile area has a chainsaw that comes anywhere close to your hog slayer just barking like a big dog! I live just west of Portland Oregon and we are at 173 feet above sea level and 2-strokes flat out run very well here if you know what you are doing.
Its okay but it shouldn’t be used on anything bigger than a 30.5 and 30.5 modded the 1242 then becomes questionable for use and an 1107 should be considered. Thanks for watching
Not much brother heading home from work. You know I’m not really a preacher. Lol I just share God‘s word, because I love Jesus so much. In reality Im just a nobody. Nobody special I just love helping people spiritually and mechanically! I hope you have a blessed weekend, bro you and your family
@@eastsiderc ok so the I got two carbs the factory walbro wt 1194 and a off brand but I have not had any luck with tuning so I backing off and going first to the ordering of new gaskets then try again from the start I notice too that when I pulled the carbs off I am off on the idle screw so I had to adjust the servo arm to compensate and that now works but it those not explain on why it don’t fire up the first try I have also set the high and low with your recommended settings L 1-1/2 / H 2turns
