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This is the best explanation of the plumbing system of a trailer I have seen. You took the time to explain how the water flows through all the pipes and explained out to rid the system of water. The detail you provided is excellent. Thank you.
Thank you! While our "new to us" Casita is actually our 4th travel trailer, the first 2 had no real winterization required... popups with no plumbing at risk if you drained the only line that ever held pressure. Number 3 in our progression was maintained by a 3rd party that managed rentals for us. Which brings us to our current situation approaching winter in 2022 as new owners of a used Casita looking at our first time to really need to prep our trailer for freezing temperatures. and I truly appreciate your explanations
This is a PERFECT video. Thank you so so so much! I had a "high level" understanding of the blow out technique, but there were certain pieces that I was still uncertain about. Specifically, my mind was BLOWN when you showed us around the 25 minute mark how to unhook the pump. SO EASY! AFAIK, not covered in the Casita Manual (will double check) and so incredibly useful. HECK - I didn't even know there was a filter there! (There are folks on the internet who talk about installing valves there, but this is better because another valve there would just be another failure point, IMHO.) I also love the tips about running the pump briefly dry around minute 27, specifically how much to add to the drains, and the pro tip about the tilt around minute 32. Like I said, this is a perfect video. Also - even reading the comments - I have learned even more! (e.g. The comment about further suction may be needed for the hot water heater from Nancy, the clarification regarding the hot water heater pressure relief value from you and Gary, etc.) THANK YOU.
Oh! I forgot one extra comment. IF you (the viewers) are still in the "antifreeze in the fresh water system" camp after this video, I've read that you can reclaim the antifreeze and re-use it. (I wouldn't re-use the drain antifreeze because that sounds kinda gross and unsafe.). I wish I had known that I could reclaim the fresh-water-system antifreeze this spring! Just never thought of it! Sharing that in case it helps others.
Alan, this video was invaluable to me as this first winter storm descended upon us. I watched the video twice, then typed out a step-by-step set of your instructions to have with me when I did the winterizing. As this is our first winter with our 2019 Casita LD, I was a bit fearful that I would not do something right, or miss something altogether. I have referred this video on a couple of Casita forums when the question of winterizing came up. THANK YOU, THANK YOU! Very much!!!
Winterized my Casita today. I found one of the fittings for my air hose today and it made blowing out the water lines so much easier. I don't have a pressure regulator on my air compressor so I just aired it up to 35 psi and and then turned it off to keep it from building more pressure and connected connected the quick coupling and could drain a couple of faucets before the pressure dropped enough that I had to turn it back on. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the great instructional video.
Thank you for your very clear video. I’m traveling full time in my 16’ Casita Spirit Deluxe and some very cold nights are predicted in a few days. I loved that you presented 2 options - so I chose the 2nd one and was very fortunate that I was staying with a friend who had all the right tools and equipment. (I also went out a got an air compressor, etc) Easy peasy! I also appreciate that I can easily bring water back into my system when I head further south again! Thank you so much 🙏🏼 I also changed the toilet valve by myself a few months ago thanks to your video. Great resource!!
OMG! That was so helpful Thank you so much. I prefer the blow out technique. I’m feeling more confident now that I can take care of my Casita properly! God Bless you!! 😘 💕💕💕💕
Thanks for the video, Allen. I just winterized my 2019 Spirit Deluxe for the first time as predicted temps tonight are for below freezing. Easy Peasy to do while following your video step by step. One thing I did notice however, was a small amount of water that remained at the hot water heater anode opening when I stuck my finger in the opening. So I used about a 3/8" diameter clear plastic tube like a straw, putting one end inside the hole and holding it down with my fingers, then sucked slightly on the other end to start a siphon. I got about two more ounces out of the water heater and can no longer feel any water inside of the opening. So I'm confident that my water heater is now totally empty. Thanks again for another one of your terrific videos. Happy RV adventures to you!
Hi Allen: Being a new owner of a Casita I have enjoyed your "HOW TO" videos very much. You are an excellent teacher and your videos are very thorough and easy to follow. I hope you are able to keep them coming! THANK YOU!
Thank you so much for this video. My first time winterizing my casita. Followed your instructions to a T. Your step by step instructions made it a breeze! Love all your videos. This has made my ownership of a casita so easy! Thanks again!
I just want to thank you ever so much for all you do for us here with all of these great instructional videos..My lady and I are going to be first time RVers upon completion of our new Casita late next Spring..I am now a RU-vid information/research addict with all the information I’ve been finding and I am really appreciating your instruction and advice!..You provide me/us with such a great service and insight!..Thank you for making things look quite doable which helps me feel like, “Hey!..I think I can do this!”..haha!..I’ll definitely be watching!..Thanks again!
Alright…Winterizing…I put the hot water heater on bypass and air blew the lines out..and emptied the water tank but I so far have not been successful at getting the Anode rod out to drain the hot water heater storage tank…what I did for the moment was to turn the hot water heat on for the time being with the bypass still in place..is that okay for now?
This was excellent! I wondered what that dodat was on the left of the water pump and now not only I know it is a filter but I know how to remove it and clean it.
Great information with details that will help me keep my Casita water lines from damage. I'm using the blowout method so that I don't have to use so much RV antifreeze and to have to dispose of it later.
I’m still in the planning phases of getting my camper. This tutorial is really great, thanks! But it makes me so happy I live in San Diego! No winterizing required!
Great videos. When draining the hot water tank if you open the pressure relief valve once the anode is removed the tank will drain very fast. Good idea to cycle your relief valve occasionally so you get two for one. Happy trails
Alan, I used the pink stuff this year to winterize my ‘08 17’ FD but thanks to your guidance, I won’t be pouring it in my fresh water tank next year. Thank you so much!
This is a great video. Last winter I watched countless videos on winterizing. Yours is far superior to any that I saw. I ended up pouring almost 5 gallons into my fresh water tank and running it through the lines. That was a huge mistake come spring. It took a lot of water to clear out those lines. I am going to have to check and see if my water pump has one of those filters. It may not since it is an 07 model. I am thinking I might gamble and not winterize this year since I am going to be leaving the day after Christmas to head to Florida. However, I may blow out the lines since that doesn't take that much. Thanks again for this very informative video.
Thank you for the comments... I like this method because of that reason as well, I just don't want to spend the time it takes to flush the lines. Even though this video was long, it really only takes about 10 minutes total to do this.
Great video, thanks so much!!! I'm a new Casita owner and I feel confident now I can do this on my own. Living in South Texas it's typically not required but it can get below freezing. I'll be ready if it does. Excellent!
I would like to thank you for the step by step tutorial on winterizing my Casita. I have a 2021 and the hot water heater is different, in the fact, I don’t seem to have a anoid rod. When I remove the screw where the rod should be all that comes off is the plastic screw. I am sure that they must have something else. I am going to have to look into it further. Also the on off switch is inside the trailer now. I think perhaps Casita should hire you to do there demo video. I also did your bathroom shower curtain tutorial and it came out well. Would you be able to tell me were you got the silver ring that you hold the curtain back with. Thanks again for your videos. Andrea Moore
Excellent video! Thanks so much. I love your step by step instructions - exactly what I need! Although we have our Casita Independence inside a metal building we will follow your steps to empty out “in case” we sell her so the new owners will be all secure.
Your videos are the gifts that keep on giving - thanks, Allen! I have one question. No matter which way I turn the hot water tank bypass, it does not stop compressed air from feeding to the hot water tank. The only way I can stop it is by reinstalling the anode rod. Am I overlooking something, or do I have a bad valve? Everything else went as expected. I should note that we always use the city water connection rather than the fresh water holding tank. Thanks again! - Glen
The air is likely back feeding from the hot water outlet of the heater. Air put into the cold line crosses over in the faucets. It is best to leave the anoid installed and the bypasd valve in the normal position so that the air can travel from the cold side thru the heater and out of the hot side to insure all the hot water lines are blown out.
You are so awesome! I’m learning as best as I can. If you hire out I wish when I buy my casita you could help me with modifications and education!! I am learning as fast as I am able.
Hello! Thank you for a great step by step video on winterizing the Casita. The air compressor used in the video looks very compact and portable enough to carry in my pull vehicle. May i ask where you purchased it? Thanks, Adrianna
I buy all my gear from Amazon... here is a link to my blog page that has links to both air compressors I use. The portable one has a newer model: rvadventurestv.blogspot.com/2021/02/amazon-misc-items.html
Alan, any chance this year, (2019) you could do a winterizing video showing the use RV antifreeze instead of blowout for those of us using antifreeze? I trust your teaching.
Hi Allen, Thanks for your excellent video and the willingness to share it with us! We bought our casita about 6 months ago and we did already winterized our casita using you video. However, we used the trailer in the meantime and need to winterizing again today. The first time we winterized, We didn't have a way to blow the water from the line that comes from the fresh water tank like you did on the video because we didn't have a nozzle to blow the air into the line back to the fresh water tank.. We have not used the fresh water tank since we bought the Casita 6 months ago . We did Disconnected the lines from the pump , cleaned the filter and turned the pump 5 seconds and some water came out the first time we winterized. So here is my question: In order to winterized again, do we need to disconnect the lines that connects the pump and repeat the process again although we didn't use the fresh water tank? Does any water from the city outlet goes to the pump that we need bow out? Sorry about the dummy question but we really trust in your experience and insight. Thanks a lot. Mari
If you don't use the pump or water tank, then there should be no water in it. The city water doesn't go into the pump as long as the plumbing is working correctly. There is a one way valve to keep that from happening in the lines around the hot water heater.
@@RVAdventuresTV Thank you very much! I didn't know that about the one way valve. Probably I need to learn more about the Casita plumbing system 😉😊. It is a relieve knowing that tough!!
Holla Allen, me encanta ver tus videos eres una persona muy simpatica espero que sigas haciendo mas videos tan informativos, y seguir aprendiendo de tus experiencias y de lo que sabes Muchas Gracias por compartir tus ensenansas
You are my go to guy for learning about the Casita. I just bought a 1986 16ft and want to learn all I can about the workings of it. I realize some things hff have changed over the years, but your instructions are so clear that it makes it easy to know what I'm looking at. Thank you.
Excellent video. You’ve converted me to chemical free winterizing. One question. I was told that the small valves in the sink are very susceptible to damage freezing. Do you feel it might be safer to leave them in an open position?
Thanks for all your help! Forgive me if this is asked elsewhere, but can you give me the product information for what compressor you use for winterizing and what other attachments I need? Just got home from picking up our SD in Rice. Live in NY, so I need to winterize. Plan on following your guidance, step by step! Thanks again!
Sorry I took so long on this reply... I use an air compressor that I also use for other things and a blowout adapter and the air hose and accessories. Here are the links to these items: blowout adapter - amzn.to/479D9YF Air compressor - amzn.to/3Sl81RN Hose & accessory kit - amzn.to/45VmEym I hope this helps. Happy camping with your new trailer.
I usually gravity drain it by just hanging it down each time we use it... so, yes, I open the plunger to allow some air to flow through it to make sure all water is out. I thought I showed that, maybe I missed it. Thanks for the question.
Alan, Thanks for the video. Do the black/grey tanks need to be dumped before this procedure? I'm in southern Arizona at altitude and sometimes hit freezing in the winter but usually not for very long. I'd like to use my RV year round and didn't realize this limitation until my purchase is now pending. I'm wondering if I winterize as you say and then bring along water in a tank I keep inside the Casita for drinking, showering and flushing, perhaps heating the water on the stove for Navy showers. Can I get away with it, perhaps adding some antifreeze (seems to be rated at -50F) after showering and maybe even using it to flush the toilet? We'll generally not get much below freezing for very long. Any advice? Again thanks for the video and alternate approach. The thought of drinking water with antifreeze taste doesn't sound appealing. If I use antifreeze, is it possible to flush out the tanks enough to remove any after taste, or do most people carry separate drinking water?
We do carry extra water for winter camping, just in case. Also, we always just drink bottled water as well. I have experience running the water system down to about 15-20 degrees because all the water lines and the fresh water tank are inside the shell and as long as I am running heat to keep the inside temperature up, then no issue. I do put antifreeze in the black and gray tanks in those conditions. Yes, flushing the system well will remove any smell/taste from the system.
Thanks for the detailed instructions! One question: After draining the fresh water tank, would it be helpful to run the water pump briefly and open a faucet to purge the pump as well as the pump infeed and outfeed lines?
That would work up to the point that no water was coming in from the inlet line (such as with an empty fresh water tank). After that, no more water will flow, so the only way to purge the pump is to run it with the outlet line disconnected. Because water flows to the lowest point, water remains in the lines from the pump outlet to the faucet. At least that has been my experience. Thank you for asking.
Excellent winterizing video! We are new to rv’ng. We are subscribers and watch everything you folks produce. We live in Ohio where our weather can go to 0 degrees and with wind. I don’t recall where you live. Will this method work for us? And, what tools do you specifically use - didn’t see them on your Amazon site! I was thinking about a Via Air with their winterizing kit for multi purpose use. Thank you for your time and consideration.
Welcome aboard! Yes, we are in northern Colorado and blowing out the lines work well for us. We have -15 degrees most winters and have no issues. The air compressor and accessories we use are on our Misc. Amazon page here: rvadventurestv.blogspot.com/2021/02/amazon-misc-items.html and the blow out plug is on the Water/Sewer page here: rvadventurestv.blogspot.com/2021/02/amazon-water-sewer-items.html thanks for watching. Happy travels.
I just went through this process. It was pretty straightforward, except one thing. Regardless of which way I set the bypass valve, if I had the anode out and air pressure into the city connection, air was coming out the how water tank (which meant the pressure was lower if I opened another valve). Any idea why that would happen? I just put the anode back in until it came time to empty the hot water tank the second time, but I just want to know if I'm doing something wrong, if my bypass valve has an issue, or if my water system is "wired" differently (it's a '10 SD 17).
This is an interesting issue... It could be that the plumbing is different, but the hot water lines are separate from the cold water lines so if the air is coming in on the cold side it shouldn't cross over. One possible reason is if a cold and hot water valve in one of the faucets are both open, even a little, which would allow the air to come in on the cold side and exit the faucet on the hot side back to the hot water heater via the hot water lines. The only other reason is if the bypass valve isn't closing completely which could also be tested by hooking water up to the city water inlet with the bypass valve closed and see if water enters the hot water tank.
Thanks for this helpful video. Quick question if we have never used our extra water tank or use the bathroom or shower, do we still need to winterize? We used to live in Texas but now moved to a colder climate and not sure if we need to winterize or not.
I have a 2024 Independence deluxe and the bypass position is different now that you are looking down at the bypass from above. It's not a big deal, you can tell when it has water flowing into the water heater and when it does not just know that it will be a different position if that is your situation from this video.
Hello. So, if I was to pour the antifreeze into the fresh water tank and then go into to the Casita and have it come through all the lines... would the blowing of the lines and other things be necessary. I guess I’m a little confused since I just watched the RU-vid video that Casita has on their channel. His instructions were a bit different. This would all be a first for me. Thank you.
I use the antifreeze method for the last 2 winters. I pour 5 gallons into the water tank & run it through. The only issue I have is the antifreeze still runs into the hot water tank. No matter how I turn the valve. I flush out the tank afterwards and leave it dry. This year I am going to do the blowout method and see which one I like better. I love his videos. He does a great job.
Alan, great video and thanks for the time and effort you put into your howto videos. One question. I noticed that you removed the hinges from you water pump, heater, plumbing access panel. Did you just reverse the door so it opens down or did you modify access in some other way? Appreciate your feedback. John in Colorado Springs.
The storage drawer platform that the pet carrier mounts to has a notch in it that the door slips into. I removed the hinges so that edge was smooth to drop into the notch and the latch at the top holds it in place. I didn't want to have to remove the platform each time I needed to access the compartment. Thanks for the comment and watching.
@@RVAdventuresTV Thanks Alan. I have always thought that door would have been better mounted upside down. I may go that route. For now we just have a plastic storage container that slides into that rear floor space.
The best winterization video I have seen. I am also in the processing of ordering a casita. Would you mind tell me is your fresh water tank 16 gallon or 25? Also does your casita have high lift axle or the regular one. Thanks
This is the third year of following your winterize video. Thanks. One question: when I disconnect the fresh water hose that's connected to the pump filter and compressed the water out - I must have done it about 30 times and continued to have water squirt out, soaking 3large towels. (Yes, I drained the fresh water tank first) I finally gave up. What is your opinion? Thanks so much for your video!
My thoughts are to make sure all the other water faucets are open, not forgetting the outside shower and inside shower, both hot and cold on all, drain the hot water heater as well as the fresh water tank, then blow out the lines and finally, remove the pump filter and blow again. There is always water in the line from the pump to the water tank, especially if the trailer is not level or slightly leaning towards the water tank. That line is the lowest so that the pump can self prime. Hopefully this helps.
I would encourage you to look at the bottom center of the hot water heater for the 1 1/16" bolt head which is the anode rod, accessed from the outside hinged door. All RV water heaters with a water tank have one.
Yes, the small one in the video works just as well. I have been told by some other Casita owners that they use a bicycle pump to do the same job and it works.
Thanks. That was awesome. In addition to being a great video about winterizing your Casita, it is also a great reference for how the water system is put together. I can't wait until I get my hose adapter so I can try this. I had one question. It looked like you cleaned your anode while you had it out. True? If so, can you provide some info about what you did there? Also, how can I tell when it's time to replace it?
I just wiped the anode rod off with a towel... the build up on it that is loose just wipes off. The anode rod shrinks in size as it is used up and when it gets to be about half the size it was originally, it is time to replace. I have talked with other RV'ers and they all say they just replace it once per year. I do that as well unless it is still a great size. It all depends on the water that is put in the system and how much minerals are in the water. It really is a judgment call on when to replace.
A little more detail may be needed here... The anode rod is a different metal than the steel tank and it sacrifices itself for the good of the water heater... here are some details from a plumbing site explaining how it all works: "An anode rod is usually formed of magnesium or aluminum around a steel wire core. The rod is inserted into the water heater storage tank, where it slowly degrades. As long as the anode rod is degrading in the tank, the tank lining will be protected from rusting. This is accomplished through a process called electrolysis, by which the metals in the anode rod attract "ions" that normally cause rust in iron and steel. These ions are what cause the anode rod to degrade over time. During this process, mineral build up on the rod called calcium carbonate can be wiped off to help the rod work better. If the steel wire in the core of the anode rod becomes exposed as the metal degrades over time, the anode rod needs to be replaced. The anode rod will be smaller than a pencil at this point."
Is there a max psi that should not be exceeded when sending air through the system? I figure your compressor has a max setting so it turns off when you have all valves closed, correct? I guess with a bike pump, you would just keep pumping until the pressure is up, then open and close each valve one at a time and re-pump as necessary. Is that right? Really liked your video. I’m not a fan of putting antifreeze in my drinking water system. Would much rather blow out the lines like this. I have been looking around at RVs for a couple of years now and came across the Casitas. They seem well built and I don’t see many complaints for them and they seem to retain their value more than others. I also like the smaller size. Did you own a previous RV, or is this your first one?
Thank you for all the comments/questions. I keep the pressure around 25 psi on the compressor outlet... with a bicycle pump, it would help to have a helper open the valves one at a time on the inside, then start pumping. I don't think a hand pump would build up the pressure in the lines. To build up the pressure there needs to be a sealed reservoir to hold air. If you get a small air compressor as I showed in the video that has a gauge, a helper can turn it off/on as needed not to exceed 50 psi, which most consider the maximum safe working pressure. Kind of the same as the water pressure coming in when hooked up to city water. We used to have a Shasta travel trailer in our earlier years, then life got busy until we retired... now we are happy to own the Casita. Yes, it is small, but there are a lot of advantages to small like maneuverability in parking lots, gas stations and campgrounds. The Casita is light and we get 16-17 MGP pulling it with our Jeep, it is as if it is not there and its shape makes it aerodynamic. The Casita trailers do hold their value well. The only downside to the trailer is a lack of storage for large items making the choice of a tow vehicle important for carrying your stuff. There are a lot of folks who add a storage locker or bike rack off the back bumper. Thanks for watching our channel.
We have a couple of times... I have a heated water hose for that and I leave a faucet dripping. I also pour some pink stuff in the drains to the holding tanks if under 20 degrees.
Thanks for the Video. I have pass it along. I decided to use the RV antifreeze because I did not want to buy a Air compressor plus it seemed like less work. Now I closed off the by pass valve on the hot water heater, like you did & still got antifreeze in my hot water tank. Any ideas?
Maybe it backed up through the inlet lines... but I haven't heard of this happening. Make sure you remove the Anode rod and wash it well or the antifreeze will melt it away. Anyone else out there experience this?
Do you think the Ryobi 1 Gal 12V air compressor would work for this? Or would it take all day to use this? I just got one but wondering if I should take it back and get something larger.
Hello Alan, have you used the portable tire pump to blow out the lines? If you did, how did that work out? I've got a portable tire pump that will attach to brass blow out plug but it has no regulator to adjust the pressure and no tank to maintain a decent pressure level. Thanks - John - 2011 LD owner in Colorado Springs.
Yes, there is a pressure relief valve. I once had a plumber tell me that it should be tested every 6 months by gently opening it on a home hot water heater. If done more than that there is a possibility that the valve could get minerals in it which would affect the safe operation of the valve. To me, it is a safety valve, not a vent valve so it is just as easy to open the nearest hot water valve to allow for vented draining. Just my preference. Thanks for asking.
For the home base, I use the PORTER-CABLE Air Compressor, 6-Gallon, Pancake, Oil-Free (C2002): Link to product: amzn.to/30YydsW For on the road, I use the TIREWELL 12V Tire Inflator-Heavy Duty Double Cylinders Direct Drive Metal Pump 150PSI: Link to product: amzn.to/3xn8cQ5
I pour some winterize solution from the jugs in the drains for the traps with enough to go into the gray tank and pour some in the toilet and flush so that it sits against the drain valves on the outside. I leave the dump drain down and open, but the valves are closed.
I have a 21 trailer….I don’t see any of the plumbing accesses you are talking about. I am worried just blowing out the faucets is not enough….where are you accessing the pump?
On the Liberty Deluxe the water pump is accessed through the wood panel under the bench seat at the rear on the kitchen side. It should be a hinged door that opens down into the walkway.
Need your advice. I posted this also on Fiberglass Forurm. Am I missing something? On my Casita 2019 when I drain my water heater & leave the plug out water still runs into the water heater. No matter which way I turn the valve. I have removed it & reinstalled it. I have reversed it. Today I replaced it & water still runs into the heater. I hooked up my water hose to the freshwater fill with an on & off valve. I turn on the hose & water flows out the water heater. Cut off the hose & switch the position of the valve & water still tuns out. Even the same results with the water pump. The last couple of years I poured 5 gallons of RV antifreeze into the water tank & pump it through the lines. I was hoping to avoid this year? Is my plumbing not done correctly? Any ideas? ( I did reinstall the valve back the way it came from the factory.)
I would suggest draining the fresh water tank, unhooking the fresh water inlet hose, open all the water faucets, hot and cold, flush the toilet until the water stops, place the shower wand in the basin and open it to drain, then take out the hot water heater plug. With all of this done, the water should stop flowing out of the water heater after all the lines are drained. I would also suggest using the "blow out the lines" method over antifreeze.
@@RVAdventuresTV Thanks I'm going to do our Casita this way once we get it. It is on order in the new color. If you continue to use the music please moderate it. It is at a super high volume level. It is not at the level of your voice. My wife has a fit when she hears the music play. Thanks
Why put antifreeze down the toilet? If the black tank is empty and you blew air out the flush valve, what are you protecting? The outside drain valve??
I base it off of the same as the recommended water pressure maximum which is 50psi. With some experimentation, I found that 20-30 psi of air pressure is plenty to blow out the lines.
Why not leave all the fresh water faucets/valves open during the winter and put a screen over the fresh water tank inlet/outlet so air can circulate and dry the water pipes/tank/faucets out so mold and bacteria don't form during the warmer days in winter.
HELP!!! I did everything he did except when I tried to blow air through the water heater nothing happened. I was able to drain the water from the heater but no air was flowing. Why?? I turned the valve ND NOTHING!!!
Here is a test for you to do... however, after doing this, you will need to redo the winterization process. Prep: Turn off the water pump and hot water heater. Install the anode rod into the hot water heater. Step 1) Close all your water valves, hot and cold. 2) Hook up a water hose to your city water connection and turn on the water. 3) Open the kitchen sink cold water faucet and make sure the water flows. 4) Close the cold faucet and open the hot water faucet and wait for the water to flow because the hot water heater has to fill up with the 6 gallons of water it holds. The cold water comes into the hot water heater on the bottom and hot water flows out of the top of the heater. If the water flows after the water heater fills, then the valve is in the correct position for normal flow. This is the position it should be in to blow air through the lines. 5) If thewater flowed out of the kitchen hot water faucet you are ready to blow air through the system. Close the kitchen hot water valve, remove the city water connection, remove the anode rod to drain the hot water heater and after the water has drained, replace the anode rod. 6) Apply a continous air flow (20-30psi) to the city water connection. 7) Open the kitchen hot water faucet and water in the line should drain out and be followed by air. At this point, you can reopen the faucets one at a time to repeat the winterization process. Hope this helps.
Ok so what we discovered was the air compressor we are using is strong enough to clear the lines but not strong enough to remove ALL of the water in the water heater. I felt air coming out but not forceful enough. There is still about a half inch of water in the bottom. Is that ok! It will be 20 degrees here In few days. I just looked on your page at all of your supplies and I have that Red air compressor. What am I doing wrong? The gage will not go over 20 when I'm blowing out the water heater when I was blowing the lines I had to stop it from going higher than 30. HELP!!! Again (:
The water heater never gets all the water out. The anode hole is higher than the base of the tank. I don't worry about that little amount because the tank is steel and the expansion of the water in the bottom of the tank will not break anything.
