One thing that I think we can't do anymore in this hobby is call it no prep drag racing when you pull up on the street a drag race somebody from light to light you don't get out clean the track you're not laying down no pj1 you're definitely not prepping your tires you hold up your pink slip and you drag race from light to light that is the true meaning of no prep drag racing
@@Dorkyand40 Now that I've accumulated parts..mostly Traxxas..I'm covered for a while. Nice thing about Traxxas alot of their parts are compatible with other models. Their also versatile to just about any form of style car you run.
You get a standing "O" for this show. It's guys like you that a huge difference in making guys go faster and promoting the sport. It's no wonder why you're the voice of NPRC. Thanks Chad!
quick tip om M17 - 1) when turning on M17 hold down left button and menu allows you to go to model setup 2) hold down right button when turning on and the custom menu comes up. Saw this on another video and thought you might be interested. Great video - I expect to put the R1 and castle motor on an DR10m to see how it handles
Thanks addam. Hope it helps it’s a lot and there’s no one tune that rules them all!! I be each person has slightly different results and the greater the differences between the cars the more the tune will vary !!
Just found your channel. Picking up a 5-7 designs Arrow Saturday. Looking forward to running some no prep! Almost every pro level radio has the same settings for throttle curve and throttle delay. My DX3R Pro has the ability to put together throttle ramps. The M17 isn't the only platform. FYI.
Why not prodigy and dorky?? Bc the knowledge you pass on my friend is endless!! Thank you!! I dont have much due to the cost of everything!! But I donate when I can like now...5.00 for a cold one!🤣🤣 thanks again from Georgia!
Jim I’m not sure about the losi. I would down load a free gear calculator app on your phone and plug some numbers in. Also not sure about a 4.5. Never ran one. 3t or 4 pole only here.
You know what I don't understand in this why people can't just drive with their finger I come from the on-road world where Roar is involved that's what we need to do here to keep this Hobby true to its roots just like we do in clay tracks just like we do and on-road just like an off-road
I get what you're saying and agree. Drag is different though. It's over in a flash and the slightest hesitation or slip up just cost you the race. Not gonna make it up on the next lap. So automation is key. But I like your thoughts on this.
@@tadracket448 and once again the only people winning people using prototype which is now listed as commercially available people with money like myself different hair Southern California not put glue on the track pj1 we only allow you to prep your tires when you show up irons got to be dry to touch not sticky
@@tadracket448 I truly believe in order to keep this race alive and keep growing we need to involve Roar where all the rules will be enforced company has made one motor and it's not available to all and it shall not be used
I love your channel I love your videos I just think all this in this hobby need to realize the truth this is no longer no prep drag racing this is 100% preparation drag racing
great video lots of good stuff. I know that everyone is having a hard time finding pinions in the size they want (myself included) but depending on your setup it is possible to run 0.8m or 32 pitch spur and pinon gears. I happen to have a nice selection from other vehicles so that is what I am using (currently 58/24) which is very close to 81/29 in 48 pitch.
For sure. It’s completely fine. Many new people just don’t understand that aspect so I figured to not include it and make things a little less complicated. Just get your fdr in that ballpark and go for it.
Not long. There’s so much info about it. Even here on my channel. Only really a few things you need to learn. So some basic theories about the numbers and first setup and you’re off.
Not without something to control the voltage output. Not sure if sanwa has an external tele sesnsor or something that could be used. Once you’re pluggged in your always getting voltage to that connector. If this was an fpv drone it would be easy but here not so much but not impossible. I’ll look into it
@@Dorkyand40 thank you. Also you have been great help with my set up thus far. I have an m17 running a castlewurks set up on a royalty mfg el mero mero. May be moving over to the dc1 or Apollo. First I need to knock out my revxs no prep drag bike.
Thanks for taking the time to make that video... are you saying that autothrottle senses wheel speed or slippage and take timing away. Basically like a traction control
In a way. So it won’t add timing when there’s is no change in the rpm or the rpm increases higher then it’s delta. Easiest to understand what it doesn’t do. For example with tekin it was all rpm based so if you broke the tires and had a huge run up in rpm then it would keep throwing timing at it causing bigger issues. The r1 just stops. You can see the flat lines in the log graph on the pink line in the video. All the flat spots is where it’s detecting spin but it wasn’t bad enough to show up in the current. So it worked perfect t in that example. But if it breaks lose hard it still can’t control all the way and you’ll see the spin with current spikes up and down
@@Dorkyand40 oh I know exactly what you're talking about... that's why people love it... thats drag racing when you get a chance check out Davis technology.... I would love for you to put an aggressive tune up and show that feature at work holding timing
The new chassis should hold way more and hopefully be a bracket runner like your cars. I would rather be in a slim range and make smaller adjustments for change vs these bigger ones. Even with voodoo and get stuck snd awesome surface this car has had a mind of its own. 1.73 then maybe a 1.9 then a 1.82 then a 2.05 lol
@@Dorkyand40 I completely understand Chad .. I just meant for teaching purposes to show it actually holds timing. we all lose voltage and amps when we spin because the system loses its load. Like flooring it on the table No draw you got me very curious about that
Yeah for sure. These escs though never show us in a log how much timing was actually added in. That would be so amazing. There’s probably a way to show what we assume is happening in a graph. Now they have another mode which is throttle % boost and that could show us closer since it adds timing preset to what % you are applying. So if you’re adding 10 deg until 50% throttle then you know what’s in there at what point in the throttle on the graph. Haven’t played with that mode at all.
It sounds pretty aggressive to me but if it works then it works. I’ve never heard of anyone using less then 93 and they are few and far between. I would try to beef something up somewhere else with gear or the speedo so you have that tool in your belt.
The rules are set up for the rich and the sponsor drivers are the only ones winning if you don't have tons of money you won't win it's the same thing with any Racing Organization whether it's real cars RC cars I've always said the faster you want to go the more it's going to cost
I e never used it with the r1 but no reason you cannot. It’s a slightly different effect then the curves built into the r1 but I would make sure that curve is set to linear so you have an idea of where your at in case you find a rough spot on the track during your 0-100 period thst you need to work through and or around
This Hobby is 100% preparation drag racing we put the tires 4-week season them put all kinds of glue on them I've been to tracks Across America where they're laying down pj1 they break out the sprayer and go to town we should be calling this or divided 100% preparation drag racing and the original OG no prep outlaw
I know what I look at in the logs but when you refer to jagged Little lines are you referring to just RPM just amp draw or both? My RPMs are nice and smooth but sometimes I have a little bit of jagged in amp line after 100% and I'm not sure how to interpret that
I don’t think the logging rate of the r1 is fast enough to show wheel spin at some levels or it might be smoothing then graph too much. With my older castle esc I could see every single rpm. So imo it has to be spin so I would treat It as such. Take out a few degrees or lower your point. Just take a little out and see if it smoothes that out. Could be a bump in the road. Could be something hitting or sticking with the car. No jags allowed :) losing et with that. Hope that helps
So example on the esc 1st dot is my start power meaning my launch , if I set it to 10% I’ll give me that 10% of launch power correct plus what my ramping numbers on the radio to give me a smooth start or launch off the line
I’ve never tried it but don’t think it’s worth it. The gearing seems to be very clear on this one. Multiple drivers faster then me are using this or something very close. The extra stator volume this motor has is perfect for 5mm.
I’d say yes and no. You can add more timing and have way more tuning features with the r1. The software just has all of that. The castle software does not. You also only have rpm based cheat mode on castle and it’s a guessing game on how much is coming in when and at what rate.
Ok gotcha that makes sense. Ya I just put the castle set up in my Apollo only 2 races on it and I have the M12 radio looks like I need a few upgrades lol
Wasn’t hard at all. Just use big tip. Little bit of solder to get things flowing. I’ve seen a few people say they have data that shows a slight/modest improvement but I think it would be hard to demonstrate. It’s almost like the xt90-qs8 debate. In the end I’ve settled for 10g and xt90 just like the fastest people I’ve seen.
@@Dorkyand40 ever since I have started to follow your channel I’ve been getting faster and faster 2.5 2.3 2.0 1.9 and now I’m aiming for 1.8 or better! you are the let’s get fast on Facebook guru thanks for all the advice and help brother
This game is too fast, too inaccessible, too insider specific. The greed of NPRC is killing itself. Larger castle motors shouldn't be in the same class as 540 can motors. I'm going to go buy a monster truck or something to start having fun with R/C again. This NPRC stuff has gotten too 'prepped' and exclusive.
