Gotta use a liner sled gauge. And that block had decent fretting on the water passages on the block. You can get by doing what you did and hope for the best. Next time take it from a machine shop and get stainless inserts for the are passages and get the liner counter bores cut and. Shimmed with stainless. You can deck the block a bit and run a thicker spacer plate. They can ensure the block is very accurate and will last longer. When you lay your spacer gasket use locktite aviation gasket maker. On both sides this helps a lot with movement of the gasket. Lube your head bolts in copper coat and engine oil. Or mp50 molylube
Excellent job!! A chimpanzee would be able to follow along!! Thanks for going down to help Tim, I’m sure he was very grateful for your support. Thanks Kc
Just started watching your channel and so far no disappointments. Makes for easy listening when someone is as articulate as you are . We have several rgns in and out everyday hauling equipment and most if not all have chain and binder rails mounted on the gooseneck facing the rear of the trailer. If theft is your main concern I understand why you don't but it would save you a pile of energy every day instead of having to climb up on the deck of the tractor constantly although it helps to keep the joints in shape. It's simply a piece of 3/16 x 1.5 flatbar welded there. Never heard of anyone loosing anything while driving. Second suggestion would be a piece of timber under the buckets of excavators, especially under the linkage to save your trailer deck from taking a beating resulting in an undesired lumber replacement job. Lastly, I believe the main reason for taping a forward facing exhaust is to not have the turbo bearings run dry but I could be wrong. You can buy leather/vinyl sleeves made specifically for this that are held in place with a bungee. Miles faster and saves the pipe from being covered in glue when delivered to the customer. To me, seems more professional. Keep up the good work and thanks again for the quality content.
i appreciate you wanting to do this build properly using the manual. your intentions are admirable. that method of measuring liner protrusion is not as accurate as the specs cat is looking for. there are too many moving pieces to that dial indicator. the proper tool is a magnetic base with the dial indicator built in stationary. i know this engine is already done and running but it would be interesting to see how those measurements compare to the actual protrusion gauge measurements. i dont think that process of bolting the spacer plate and liner was accurate. i may be wrong but i thing there is an updated procedure that requires quite a bit more bolts and torque spec. regardless, it is up and running and i hope it treats you well. like you, i am not a big truck engine mechanic....i have to figure it out as i go.
I found out about updates after I did the inframe. I was using the book I ordered from Caterpillar. On the plus side the job was done by a pro but sat for years, which is why I took it apart. She simply lost the O Rings.
I have been building formula 1 wet liner engines for 20 years, after doing my apprenticeship on big diesels 30 years ago, notably Cat, Cummins, Scania and Mercedes engines. For a field repair of an engine, how he did it was more than accurate enough. Those things are tanks, not Ferrari, my friend. FSC, keep on trucking, I love your vids. And the sound of that big Cat!
You made a very good video. I have a 7FB engine in my old 84 EXHD pete that needs rebuilt. I have already pulled it out of the truck and just checking out videos like your. I hope your engine is running good for you. I would like a updated video on it.
You are gutsy doing that work On a 3408 cat everything I always saw on this engine is that they have to be done very carefully and there is a lot of ways to do it wrong and have problems down the road good luck my man I hope everything goes well for you
I hope you looked at the lowers (counter bores where the o-rings go) and checked them for pitting. The one upper o-ring was pretty deteriorated. They are known for that. Im sure that's why she got milky. I work for a engine machine shop in northern Illinois if you ever need some engine machining done. Dustin@Precision Automotive Diesel
Yes, looking at the lower bores should always be done. Our machine shop took a old tool for cutting for inserts, and designed it to cut the lower bores, in machine. Had to take out adjoining liners to set up tool. Also need to look at top of block for erosion and measure it, because it well effect the protrusion. The reason for the erosion is if you notice where the valves in the head come close next to the liners, when the valves open and close they heat and cold the liner in those spot, and they move causing wear to the liner! When you put in stainless steal inserts they dissipate the heat in those areas, and tends to stop the wear cycle!!! I say these after being the field machinist that went out and cut for them for 18 years of the 46 1/2 years I worked for a cat dealer!
Excellent explanation but I have a question with the different allowable measurements on the 4 corners of the liner does that mean the top of the block is not perfectly flat?
I think it's a combination of imperfections of the block, head surface, liner, etc. It can happen to be that the imperfections in each of the pieces add up to the total being out of spec. It seems like most of the time it just works but if it doesn't then you can rotate the liner or swap them between the cylinders so the imperfections don't line up.
Im down in houston tx, i have the same motor previously painted white in an 89 fld. What was the significance of the white color? I wish i had someone like yourself to run questions by down here. Respect from HTOWNTX
It was a PACCAR thing in the late 70s early 80. They wanted to set a higher standard in trucks. So they had a deal either Caterpillar to paint truck engines for PACCAR Matterhorn White. This is a slightly different white from Caterpillar's Marine engines.
Using a dial indicator with magnetic base is really not a accurate way to measure liner protrusions. There is simply too much deflection and too many movable parts. The actual liner sled gauge has the dial indicator mounted rigid to the sled gauge and you zero it on the deck surface or spacer plate and slide it onto the liner. Every time you move a indicator on a magnetic base the measurements change.
Hey Steve, this video popped up today so I watched it again. At the 16:45 mark I noticed something when you showed the liner with the damaged o-ring. I noticed some damage just above the groove caused possibly from electrolysis. That’s probably how you were losing coolant. Did you check if the block was grounded properly? I always run extra ground cables on the front and back of my blocks to a good ground point. Loving the videos!
Im rebuilding a 3406 B and a C right now. The C projection seems better than yours, the B is out of spec. Im in a Facebook cat group and getting lots of negative input from the steering wheel holders , i see your driving yours in many videos , they got me worried about blowing a head gasket now
I hate to tell you. Your book is out of date and your bolt quantity was not enough, 26 needed. Bolts 7H3598, washers 8F1484 and 7X0564, torque bolts to 70 FT LBS, Liner projection on a counterbored block is .0035 to .006. Your Cat dealer should have informed you of Reuse and Salvage guideline, media number SEBF9008. Updated 12-9-2019. Replace all head bolts and use moly paste on them. Hope you don't blow a head gasket.
The bolts in this video were only for the counterbore. The head was installed using new head bolts. Including the "Jacobs" bolts. This complete job was done after consulting the service techs at Caterpillar many times.
@@fsctrucking I realize that, the proper liner projection hardware is listed above. Read SEBF9008 from Cat. Did your Cat techs inform you of this media to look at? Been working for Cat 39.5 years now. And yes your 7FB is a 400 HP. Most you could get out of a JWAC engine. Glad you use new head bolts. Min liner projection is .0035 on a counterbored block.
