Cat 6 vs Cat 7. What is the difference 

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Funny, thanks.

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Three is binding.

Counter Rotation on 4 probably a spool in there.

Nothing on 3. Now back at the beggining...

Using the tool that Bill and I made.

and as always, have a nice day

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Great to hear and thanks for the feedback!

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586A is from the dinosaur days when telcos ruled the world and dictated everything. It's better if you happen to have an old PBX switch but... Eventually the networking upstarts took over and that's the B spec. We wanted to do things like power over ethernet and increase transmission speeds...

Sure you can. It's a crossover cable which was *essential* in days before auto-negotiate.

ummm yes you absolutely can, that's called a crossover cable. It's just that for the past 15 years or so, every device has Auto MDIX and that dynamically causes 1 of the devices to flip their transmission pins if required. PC's and Router's typically had the same pin-out and Switches/Bridges/Hubs had the alternate. If you were connecting a PC to a Hub, you use a straight cable. But if you were connecting it to directly to a router or to another PC, or router to another router, you needed to use a cross-over cable Also A and B are functionally identical, the 2 different standards simple swap the Rx and Tx pins (which dynamically get switched with Auto MDIX anyway, literally zero difference) You can also use both A and B cables in a line. I.e. if the wiring in the wall was done B standard, and you use an A standard patch cable at either end i.e. A-B-A it ends up again being a normal straight through cable anyway. Straight and cross-over cables are functionally identical these days, really doesn't matter for data transmission. However PoE is a different matter........... therefore its strongly suggested to always do straight-through cables in every instance and let Auto MDIX handle the data side (as it can't switch PoE pins)

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Agreed.

Agreed, it was one of my earlier videos and was still learning the process. Thanks for the input.

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Those connectors are available for cat5e and cat6. They just cost more than standard connectors.

Try passthru connectors - you'll be in love. You can get less untwisted length, fewer pieces to assemble and a lovely way to check the connectors before crimping while the wires are in the plug. If you don't have noise meters and test equipment, I think it's the most reliable for best results!

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or insert a boot

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I appreciate that

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Awesome. Thanks for the feedback.

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If you view the full notes in the video there is a link to it. Thanks.

😀

And while only “certified” to 5GbaseT at 40 (or maybe 55) meters, most cat5e cable exceeds the spec and will generally work for 10GbaseT up to 40M. If you use f/utp, s/utp, or s/ftp cat5e cable, with 350Mhz rating, you can essentially guarantee it will work at 10Gb up to 40+ meters. Cat6 is certified for 10Gb up to 55M. Use one of the shielded variants and you can probably run up 100M. Because of the larger gauge wire, cat6 is preferable if you’ll be using PoE. That will have lower heat and lower voltage/amperage losses. Cat5e and Cat6 are both much easier to work with than Cat6a

Yes. But many switches run hotter.

@@bayerbear6770 elaborate / reference? (genuinely interested)

@@beartastic-ftwMore signal attenuation and cross-talk means that the sending modulator cannot employ power save features (reduces power when receiver says signal is to hofh/good).

@@bayerbear6770 most power savings on Ethernet come from the sleep mode/disabling of the phy link, not from reduced power of the active link. So, while you are technically correct, cat6 cabling when used with “green ethernet” compliant switches and adapters can use less power, the difference won’t be significant. Standard ethernet signaling levels are only -2V to +2V at low current, so there isn’t a drastic amount to save. The savings due to phy sleep generally will far outweigh adaptive signal voltage adjustment. Reduced PoE losses can are where the big potential savings start to kick in. PoE is becoming more popular, at least in office environments, especially larger installations, but it’s still pretty rare in home or small office environments. However, while I generally would not recommend replacing existing cat5e with cat6 until you encounter a specific reason to do so, I would recommend cat6 for most new cabling, especially if any run is likely to exceed 40m

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the alignment thing is a massive improvement, although i would argue passthrough ends are still better

Some of the new panels are made to be grounded which is best, however as long as one side is and it is grounded to your networked equipment, you should be OK. You can search for cat 6a/7/8 panels and see what they look like. Great question.

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Thanks for your input.

I have some affiliate links in description below the video.

No problem. Thanks for the feedback

Thanks for the detail.

I agree with you. But my other issue is when he says the Standard in the USA is B. They are both standards and I know electrician do A and most computer people do B. Why I have no clue. I think way back in the day one of the colors had more twists than the other which isn't the case any longer. It comes down to what you are taught. www.flukenetworks.com/knowledge-base/application-or-standards-articles-copper/differences-between-wiring-codes-t568a-vs#:~:text=The%20only%20difference%20between%20T568A,two%20pair%20USOC%20wiring%20schemes.

@@kewitt1 I tend to ignore that religious debate. A vs. B... they're functionally the same. Which you use is a matter of personal preference, or company doctrine.

@@jfbeam Functionally they are not the same. A will let you use the second phone pair for POTS phones as is, the other will not. Some IT persons will wire B standard for that reason, to discourage use of their wire, to send POTS telephony on their wiring.

www.flukenetworks.com/knowledge-base/application-or-standards-articles-copper/differences-between-wiring-codes-t568a-vs#:~:text=The%20only%20difference%20between%20T568A,two%20pair%20USOC%20wiring%20schemes.

Thank You!

@@MikeFaucher thank you, already watching the cat 7 vs cat 8

@@Amiro1990 Awesome!

No that should work fine. I would go with the wall plate for convenience. Thanks for the feedback.

MrJordanwain Yes it is pretty stiff. Thanks for watching.

Sort of. See 2:20 Doctor Who's K9

With the tester I use, I only test connection. I do not have equipment that will check for bit error rates. Great question.

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Sure, I have an affiliate link in the description of the video toward the bottom along with everything i used. Thanks.

Fluke makes a meter that can test all the way to 40G but they are not cheap. I use actually data transfer testing as that is all I have for now.

Good point. I guess it is not that short... Thanks for the feedback.

Can you please clarify the question. The wire is a standard pin out as defined in the video T568B.

You do not need this type of connectors and you can use standard unshielded RJ45 on Cat 6.. Thanks for the question.

@@MikeFaucher HOLY SMOKES THANKS FOR THE REPLY THIS IS JUST GREAT!!!

@@anunentitledmotivatedmille7731 NP, good luck, and thanks for the feedback.

Make sure you buy connectors rated for cat6, the wire is slightly larger gauge. They don’t have to be shielded, or use inserts, or use passthru design, but they do need to be made for cat6. Inserts and passthru designs are just to make it easier.

Good point and thanks for the feedback!

I have only been able to find SFTP or better... (Well, heavier shielding anyway...), per ISO/IEC 11801, CAT7 must be SFTP.

If it's not SFTP it's not CAT7.

Yes it does... Inland and Monoprice's does also... Panduit doesn't and it's the best you can buy.. At least thats what they tell us.... LOL

@@MrMindlink .

Thank you for the feedback. You can use a punch down tool but the way they made this connector you do not really need it because as you pointed out the back of the connector pushes in the back half and pushes in the wire. Thanks for the comment and question.

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The issue you will have is the standard flat cable is only indoor rated so it will deteriorate pretty quickly. I would make sure you get so outdoor cable. or plan to replace it every once in awhile.

Since the exterior run is short you might try making your own tunnel out of a trashed aluminum lawn chair.

@@brianhack7216 Trashed aluminum lawn chair? That's pretty random rofl. Just a stick of PVC pipe and maybe an elbow or 2 would work just fine.

@@csorrows PVC works as well. The underlying assumption is both materials can be reused for a tunnel. Why pay for something when it can be found for free?

@@brianhack7216 I just found it funny you called out specifically for an aluminum lawn chair.

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Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it and good luck!

I would say if you have bout it pre-terminated you should be fine. I have used some flat patch cable which has been fine. Thanks for the question.

Cat 7 is basically Cat6Ae shielded. Flat ethernet are generally not rated for gigabit and are rarely shielded.

That certainly works. Thanks for the feedback.

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It is not about the provider but rather internal network access such as to NAS units, Plex Server, or computer to computer

Actually after you crimp it the resistance measures very low

Me neither but that what the reports I read mentioned. Pretty strange.

Thanks for the input.

It is officially called a load bar and comes with the connector. See the link in the description for the ones that I used. Thanks for your question.

if you run them and straighten them out using a draping technique over your finger, no need for the load bar. Once you get them straight they'll go right in. Did tons of cable for a data center and it's the quickest and best way. practice makes perfect but load bar it when your finger's tired! hahah

darkmantis Yep but that requires more experience. Thanks for the feedback.

@@darkmantis69 This is the right way to do connectors. I ain’t wasting my day loading a bar.

@@WilliamWonka Doesn't it provide additional strain relief?

The make a tool to compress the connector but no punch too is needed for this type of connector.

Apparently it is not the same. Mostly the life of the cable but also the speeds are vastly different.

Yes you are right. Thanks for the feedback.

Glad it was helpful!

What does it land on in a home ?

Cat 6 will be fine for 1G.

Good quality ones can be just as good but they use multi-stranded wire iso they are thinner. Mainly used for short patch cables and not in wall.

By itself that is true but when you crimp or clamp it down it seems to work. I did test it with a multimeter and got less than 2 ohms. Great point and thanks for bringing it up.

Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.

It literally doesn’t matter what you use to trim. The whole trick of RJ’s is in your thumb/forefinger and wrist motion. It honestly doesn’t even have to bottom out to make a good connection.

Only IP cameras

If you have 5E, and you are hardwired, I would not change anything as is it will not make any difference. 5E is rated at 1 gig for 100 meters. If you are playing online games, you internet connection is most likely your source of lag.

Thanks and you are right. Early days.

Thanks for pointing that out. I just added a link to it in the description. I appreciate the feedback.

1/4 inch but 3/8 inch works well. Thanks

@@MikeFaucher Many thanks

Did you watch that fibre splicing video?

Yea you wouldn't be making many of those in a day (at least not and stay sane). And i though making CAT 6 was slow...

Fiber really is the best option for going from MDF to individual IDF’s. From separate racks 6A is more than enough for pretty much anyone except massive tech companies.

You have a valid point however I have not any information on ground loops being an issue when used for shielding and noise protection. Great question but there is little information on this topic. Thanks for the input.

@@MikeFaucher Here in the UK shielded twisted pair has historically been rare however Germany seems to favour it and it's always been a PITA to terminate the grounds without causing the issues @kokodin refers to. The normal solution is providing a network ground separate from equipment ground and only grounding one end of any connection, typically the network cab end which is provided with it's own ground. The potential issues are going to be exactly the same with cat7. Commercially Cat7 is happening but for domestic installations I'm very sceptical of it's utility. Cat5 easily does 1Gbit and Cat6 10Gb. It's really hard to imagine a practical use for more in the home arriving within the lifetime of anything installed today.

Not much data on any rules but I would say very few are earth grounded and typically use electrical grounds which from my experience has not posed as big a problem as going to earth.

Grounding loops and grounding in general is handled by the end equipment no the connecting cable. This is one of the reasons why NEC moved to ground over N for sub panels in 2006. This issue is also generated by the connected equipment at either end and the (EMI filter method or lack there of) not the networking medium. Luckily most MDF-to-IDF connections are facilitated by non conductive fiber cables. If your using Cat7 on backbone, the connecting equipment if high-end enough to even saturate a Cat7 connection should already include some good EMI filters. You could alternatively include one in-line. Honestly though it shouldn't be a problem at all unless you have some shotty work somewhere electrically.

I guess to sum this up better Drain wires(the bare wire he is "grounding" with on the connectors). Are not actually intended to carry ground for end devices but to facilitate anti-attenuation. The exception to this rule is some specific PoE and CPE Devices that use it to incorporate an interruption circuit for lightning protection.

You do not really need it unless you plan on running 10GbE. Thanks

See my earlier reply. Thanks.

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