Removed a section in my camper where the entertainment area is and installed. Works great. Instead of propane furnace heat, I can use this ru-vid.comUgkxATHBlMJwipGgVWseuAFKvDQ_5R4_lywo to heat the camper as long as it's hooked up to shore power. Only thing I do not like is there does not seem to be a thermostat. I'm presuming it has a built-in one so it does not overheat. Really like all the other color options it has to offer.
Fun fact. Burning pine indoors is not a problem. Of course many many old timers have always known this and have been getting cheap pine for firewood that nobody else wanted. The University of Georgia did a study on burning different types of wood in fireplaces and wood stoves. The findings were incredible, that pine does not put out any more soot or create more creosote than hardwood. In fact, hardwood can actually produces more. Pretty insane considering conventional wisdom, a.k.a urban myths, has always said the opposite. The only thing to make certain of is that each has been seasoned to less than 20% moisture content. It is believed that the old wive's tale originated from people burning it after seasoning it the same amount of time as the hardwood and began to get buildup therefore assuming the problem was the type of wood. The problem never was the wood but rather the time spent letting it season. Pine takes twice as long to get it below 20% than does hardwood. Pine burns much quicker and doesn't create many embers. So as these wise old timers have always known, it has its place in the firewood lineup. It's great for starting a fire. It's great to initially get a wood stove up to high temp quickly. It's great to fire back up a stove that has gotten cooler. When using it as starter wood, follow with hardwood for more longevity. Imagine the tons of pine that can be gotten so cheaply. These old timers are not liking their secret getting out. :)
There are many people around the world that live in dense forests of nothing but pine and other conifers. You just pay attention and only burn good dry wood and check your chimney often
Trevor, Don’t for to mention the value of seeing flames in your stove. Cat stoves when up to temp (activated) typically won’t have as many flames as a non-cat stove will. I ultimately chose a non-cat stove because I wanted to see active flames and 10 hour burn times with re-burn tubes were plenty good. Loved the mr.know it all skit. ! keep it up
Thanks for the update. Curious what your feedback has been from customers on the noncat Dauntless. I like it but the reviews I've read online are very mixed.
I'm new to the industry having just started in a hearth store 3 months ago. I just wanted to say I've been watching your videos ever since I started and you've really helped me in learning a lot of useful information. Also, I got more excited than necessary when Mr. Knowitall made another appearance haha. Keep up the awesome work.
The 2" thick by 6" in diameter round catalytic converter on my 40 year old consolidated dutchwest by Vermont Castings is made of a honeycomb, hard clay like material. The maintenance requires rinsing and saoking with warm water once per season. My first converter lasted approximately 25 years before small pieces of the material degraded and began breaking off. After the temperature in the pin thermometer that fits into the steel plate above the converter reached 500° I closed the damper and diverted all of the exhaust through the converter. I call it cracking the smoke to clean it up. You can go outside at this time checking the stack and see that there will be very little to NO smoke coming out. Granted, we don't have Severe winter's here in Louisiana, but many cords of wood have gone through this stove and converter over the years! Absolutely Love it!!😉
@@embersliving Once a year I'll get on the roof and pull the stainless cap off the stack and drop a 6" wire bottle brush weighted with a 6 lb mall head down through the stack with 28ft of rope. The only resistance for me is going through the triple wall piping, the single wall is not as tight. After 3 passes I go inside, open the top damper and pull the carbon pieces into the stove dropping to the ash pan (approx 2-3 cups of carbon. All vents are closed and no dust goes into the house during the brushing. We Must use Well seasoned wood, especially if you like to burn a cooler fire at times and have a tall vent stack! Unseasoned wood, burning cool fires means build up in the stack, creating a fire hazard. I burned some slightly seasoned RED oak one year and inspected a few 6 ft sections of the single wall piping because I didn't have much carbon accumulation after brushing. I found an 8th of an inch of smooth, hard, carmelized coating throughout the piping. Couldn't remove it with a metal scraper, so I replaced all of the 6" stack. I have 26 ft total stack and I must burn very seasoned Oak. Shorter run of stack should result in less coaking.
The precious metals on the combustor lower the burning temperature of smoke from around 1100F to 500F so it can burn. They work great provided you take care when using them. I've done so for 30+ years and really like them.
How about over time as the stove cools down, is it going under 500 degrees and not working properly? I’ve gotten coal base 12 hours but the stove doesn’t seem very hot. What about the air intake and the spring inside? My stove is old and I think it needs replacement. Any help on this would be appreciated thanks.
@@lordmarshall5239 Tough to say with a 30+ year old stove w/out seeing it. The new Intrepids are flex burn and work with or w/out the cat combuster. Not sure what they used then. I think they were all cat stoves. I'd start with the manual and exploded parts diagram and make sure everything is working properly. If you need a new combustor, I'm sure you could buy one. I was able to find the manual for a 1990 Intrepid 2 online. RU-vid won't let me post a link, but I'll try to put everything by the http in the next replay to see if that works.
again you must realise timber has a finite amount of energy. lets say just for simplicity. its 5klw per 8 logs, and your stove takes 8 logs. therefore if you burn 8 logs in an hr you get 5klw of heat in your home for 1 hr ...if you burn 8 logs over 5 hrs ..you get 1 klw of heat per hr. SIMPLE . i cant make it clearer.
I have a few questions. 1. average cost of a catalytic converter? 2.Are the cats a standard size that they would be attainable after the manufacturer goes out of business? 3.The bypass must evidently be open until it is 500 degrees on startup, does that also mean someone has to open the bypass as the fire burns down below 500 degrees or can you just leave the fire burn out if you go away? Thank you
it wont function under 500 as they clearly say. So the whole effect of the catalytic converter is only that the burn is slower and more clean for the amount of time its above 500. Under 500 the burn is only slower with less heat and more pollution because the catalyst is not working anymore compared to a secondary burner stove which burns hotter and cleaner but for a shorter time. Remember, there is just so much energy in a piece of wood.
@@anthonyspadafora1384 I guess to create enough pull. No idea why else. The whole thing feels like sales talk to me. Makes it interesting for some people. The best way to burn wood and get a so complete possible burn of the wood and its gasses is at the highest temperature possible in the burn chamber and in the pipe and with all the oxygen it needs to do that. The only stove that does that is the rocket stove. That's also the reason they put mass around it so you collect the excess heat.
If you are really "off grid", you aren't going to be able to find someone to clean that Catalytic Converter. For "survival purposes" (Zombie Apocalypse) the best wood stove, would be the one that requires the least amount of maintenance, and maintenance you can do yourself, as well as something that doesn't need high tech technology, and the mining of precious metals, in order to work. I'll take the secondary reburn system. This was very informative! Thanks!
I'm glad you liked the video Old Yeller! We recommend you have two Catalytic Converters. So long you do clean burns the converters can be used for a long time. In a zombie attack however I think you're right about the re burn system!
Why do you RU-vid salesmen always avoid talking about cost? Do you think that you have a better chance of closing the sale if we are in your showroom before you tell us the price? Maybe next time tell us how much more one system may cost and how much it will cost for annual maintenance of one versus the other. And, please spare me the worn out excuse that the costs may vary. Use averages and stop pretending that we are stupid.
Oh dear lord. Old thoughts with new tech. You can burn all kinds of crap in a stove and not get creosote build up. The problem isn't what your burning, but HOW your burning. I've ran a stove for 15 years on just prime, often not fully cured. And I've not had to clean it, clarification, I check it every year, and there's nothing to clean. Why? Because I bring up the temp once a burn to clean it all out.
Catalytic is the best!! My Blaze king princes heats my 1600sq house all day with 4-5 16"x8 logs for 16 hours. And still have plenty ambers to get it going again! Combuster still working great after 6 years. All I donis brush the front and shop vac. Key is gettit plenty hot before engaging it.
I appreciate having both technologies in my Hearthstone stove. While heating up the stove from cold or after reloading fuel, secondary combustion burns vigorously, producing very clean thorough combustion at high throttle angles and higher combustion rates. Once things are heated up, engage the catalyst and choke it down. The fire can settle into lazyer flames and smoldering, letting the catalyst perform the combustion downstream. This helps separate the combustion from the fuel, providing a slower burn rate. I routinely find a warm stove 12-16 hours after the last reload with coals for a relight. Sometimes even longer. The most impressive part of that, is that I'm burning trashy low density ponderosa. I can only imagine what hardwood would do in this stove. Probably would be capable of 20-24 hour burn cycles.
I am looking at a Hearthstone Heritage. How do you like yours? Any issues with it? I’ve read some really great reviews and some not so good. I went up to my local dealership today here in upstate New York and it’s a beautiful stove!
@@MDR-hn2yz Had some leaks in the top stones that I resealed with refractory cement. I think the top stones on a lot of these aren't sealed great from the factory or are jostled loose in transport. After that easy repair the stove has been perfect. Ours is the Mansfield, which is similar to the heritage, just a slightly larger, more "square" firebox. It takes wood N/S or E/W from the front door, which works great for our corner-install application. It's a complicated stove made from lots of separate pieces. Combines the beauty of a cast iron stove and a stone stove. If you decide to buy a stove like this, go into it with the level of "respect" that the reality of it deserves. This is both a wood stove and a piece of art. It's not going to be as utilitarian as a welded steel stove. Treat it with care and it will treat you to beautiful fires and soft warmth that lasts many hours after the flames have gone out. We absolutely love it. Going into our 4th season with it and I have 4 cords of very dry wood split and stacked and ready to go, and another 8 cords that I have almost finished splitting that we'll use in future years. (We burn ~3 cords a season). I think the mixed reviews are "fair" all around. These stoves aren't for everyone. If you take the time to really read the manual and learn the proper startup procedure and pre-heating procedure, and follow the recommendations in the manual for daily "high-burns" to help keep the catalyst clean and properly get the catalyst going, you'll get really great results from the stove. If you just want a box you can burn in any ole way you want, you'll be better served with a non-cat stove.
yes-you were wrong on how the secondary air works-you said it does it on its on/that not true/the secondary burn is activated after the wood stove is up to burn temperature-then you close the primary air damper back to about 1/4 of air damper-then the convection of the draw of the stove will dawn air up the secondary chamber preheating the air an into the air tubes in top of burn -this then burns the gases that would other wise escape/giving a long burn time too/do some google research/thanks
You didn't mention how a wood stove cat converter is similar to the cat converter in your car. They're both magic (and delicate) space age chemistry soot burners that run at very high temp and don't really start doing anything until they reach that high temp. Nice way to tie a new concept into a familiar thing. Even if someone didn't know their car has a cat converter, then at least you'd connect to the idea of their car itself. Another thing to mention is that regular (non-cat-converter) secondary burn tech is probably, what, 300 years old now? (Or even as old at smelting metal--requiring efficient use of wood in a semi-industrial setting for thousands of years?!) People who want to be rustic are just making themselves look silly by going full caveman with a pain-in-the-ass open flame when we've had easier less wasteful burning tech, proudly, for wood or coal or whatever, for hundreds of years. My wife sees me helping with the house all the time and I sold her on putting a stove in our (huge) hearth by letting her know I'm not into a ton of work for a tiny amount of effect, not when we can have *easy* wood heat that cuts down on the way higher elec bill from the heat pump on long winter nights. You want pretty flame? Think of the stove window as a screen showing a log flame like is all the style nowadays. Think of the stove as an old CRT monitor made out of iron that belts actual heat when you play the log flame video, lol! Best of both worlds.
Guess how they're professionally cleaned? Either with with a blow torch and burn off the crud or with, you guessed it, a wire brush but not all hard core like.
@@embersliving I didn't mean for it to come out like that. I need to be more aware of what I'm saying and how I say it. I may have been in a bad mood or angered from someone/something else. No excuse to be like that to others though. Merry late Christmas. Hope it was the best one yet.
@@embersliving I should know better than to ask a capitalist. Have you heard of fixed income? “The land of opportunity, at other’s expense.” Have you heard of fixed income? I use to work as a service technician and know all about up selling. Lost plenty of jobs for not complying to the concept. I’m now retired, thank God.
Neither are better. In my opinion, the EPA should be abolished they have their dirty unelected mitts in everything from wood stoves washing machines to diesel trucks. Overcomplicating a simple device, season your wood properly and my old fisher is almost as efficient. And to boot, although frowned upon if you must you can burn something a Little green if you run low on wood. Never understood all this nonsense.
The “high efficiency” don’t mean heat output efficiency, they mean burn efficiency. They increase burn efficiency by allowing more air (oxygen) into the fire which means less particulates up the chimney because the fire is hotter and burns faster. This means a hotter fire with shorter burn time. The only way to extend your burn time is to choke off air supply to the fire. This is done by adding a second damper in your chimney above the stove. You need to control air flow in and “out” of the stove. Yes, this will send more particulates (smoke) up the chimney and also blacken the inside of your glass until air flow is increased to create a hot fire then it burns off and becomes clear glass again.
@@embersliving A flameless fire will smoulder and send particulates (smoke) up the chimney. Maximum efficiency is achieved by adjusting the air flow to the point where you have small intermittent flames. As soon as you have a flame, all the smoke disappears. The flame does the same thing as the catalytic convertor. Long, slow overnight burns require a certain amount of smouldering unfortunately but remember that smoke is only a problem if it’s blowing in your face or if you have a smog problem in your area. A tree that falls and decays releases the same amount of carbon as if that tree was burned. People need to study the Carbon Cycle.
There are many ways to increase burn times, some of which can be done while maintaining an efficient burn. It also depends greatly on the type of unit you have and what you're able to control. The trick is to load up the firebox while lowering the intake air to the minimum needed to achieve an efficient burn. Thicker pieces or pieces that are obstructed from the air inlet by other pieces will take much longer to burn through.
I find it rather dubious that you kept how to clean the catalytic combuster a secret. Are you or is someone you know operating a fireplace/chimney cleaning service? I wouldn't know for sure, but to clean one of the catalyst modules I would first try putting it into a self cleaning oven on the top rack and set the oven for clean, a couple hours, AND TURN YOUR VENT FAN ON in the kitchen. If that didn't work I would try a propane or mapp gas torch. Anything left after that won't matter. I wouldn't scrub it with anything, I wouldn't spray it with water without consulting the manufacturer. I might, however use air to blow off the ash.
The secondary/ reburn system runs on the volatile organics. It needs to be HOT, and have air. You can run simple engines (old carbureted ones) on the volatile organics. You do have to manage the extra air on the stoves so the secondary burn works efficiently. I like the simple second chamber air tube/ injector system that is simple to maintain.
can you explain if timber has 1 ton 5klw of heat per hr e.g. and you burn that one ton over 5 hrs are you not getting 1 klw of heat per hr. which in most homes would not heat home?
Catalytic is more expensive to maintain. That's one reason I didn't get one. Secondary reburn works fine for us. Keeps heat 12 hours easily. EPA stove compliant, no problem. Not using outside air directly just inside ground air, works fine. Catalytic is more costly upfront as well.
You said have a professional clean the combuster. But what if my professional is like your Mr. Knowit All? How will I know? Then suddenly my combustor doesnt work!
Two solutions to the same problem. But the explanations on youtube are all lacking. They all focus on how hot the catalyst needs to be. But this is distracting! The catalyst is there to operate at a *much lower* temperature compared to where proper secondary burn works. The catalyst can let the stove operate cleanly in a lower power setting. As long as the catalyst is hot/active, it will work and "re-ignite" the leftover combustables. The gasses can be much cooler, as long as the catalyst is hot. Because it can keep itself running. That is great for stoves that are meant to operate at a low power setting, like over night or long shifts. Secondary burners without catalyst do the same in principle. But without the help of a catalyst the flue gasses need to be above the auto-ignition temp of the combustibles when the air is added. Which is 700-1000°F. So this principle does not work at a very low power setting. Because they won't ignite when they are not hot enough and go out the chimney.
Thank you so much for your explanation between the two. You have helped us in picking the type of stove we would need. We will probably go with the non-catalytic rear venting through our fireplace. Again, thanks.
@@embersliving ~ I have seen enough on the Cat stoves to know that you need to get a minimum of 500 degrees F. before turning the valve to allow the exhaust through the converter or else you just deposit crud and so block any catalyst action. Install a pyrometer or use the handheld infrared temp reader tool. Harbor Freight has them for $20 or thereabouts.
great segment sir. you clearly explained the difference between CAT stoves and secondary burn stoves. I've been burning wood in my current house for over 25 years. I had a CAT stove from Consolidated Dutchwest that was ok but i didn't like it and got some secondary burn stoves. I currently have a Jotul F3CB upstairs in 1100 square ranch and a Pacific Energy Summit in the full basement. Both have served me well in southern Maryland. Most of the time my Jotul does the job. During this last cold snap and snow, i had to fire up the Summit. Key to any of them is using dry, seasoned wood. thanks for sharing.
I had a catalytic stove - Vermont castings Defiant Encore 1987. I loved it, but he's right, you have to babysit it. Personally, I want a long burn time for night time, and if I need to close the damper to activate the catalytic stove a half hour after I stack the stove, and turn the air down another half hour after that, that essentially removes an hour of time that it can operate while I sleep. I'm buying a non-catalytic soon. Also, his statement about shortening burn times after cleaning a catalyst is inaccurate. The burn times went down for Mr Knowitall because he removed the catalyst, not because he cleaned it incorrectly. Even if your catalyst doesn't work properly - leave it in and it can still function as a damper and keep the long burn times (you just won't get the heat from the secondary burn).
A non cat is more robust over a much wider range of operating conditions with different woods and can burn scrap material, including junk mail no problem. You have to be much more selective what you burn with a cat. Also, there is no reason to get a non cat stove that hot to begin with like you show in the graph. If you even it out at the front, the two are equivalent for burn times and so on. In any case, the most important thing an owner can do is understand how to run their stove efficiently and burn dry wood. Use outside combustion air, insulate your fire box to the max (you can get it up to temp much faster), and then run the stove within its normal parameters in terms of output and so on. There are a lot of people out there who simply don't know how to operate their stove effectively. I have a non cat stove, and it is nice to have the option to burn lots of "junk" in it, especially if it is already hot. Burnable things that can't be recycled and so on.
@Aj Bob no. He's talking about the firebox. Insulated firebox will be hotter and burn better than non insulated. That's why you see firebricks in all woodstoves.
Hey so how does a hybrid stack up vs a fully reburn or a fully Catalytic in terms of burn times? Im thinking about getting one for my house but work shifts and am gone for 14 hours a day so need that long burn times to keep it from being too hard to restart.
@Bayside where having lots of fun.... burning half the amount of wood , been 2 winters now and catalyst still performing very well. Absolutely amazing.
The science that you don't understand behind the catalyst, is that the precious metal platinum in the honeycomb catalyst, lowers the burning temperature of smoke, allowing it to be re-burned👍
Figured id share this. Catalytic converters (in cars atleast) can stay Hot for hours like campfire coals. Ive worked on cars that sat for 2 hours and gotten burned by the cat converters. They definitely hold heat very very well
@@safffff1000 I wager most people have inserts. Exposed flu is only a couple inches. If we had properly designed fire places that had blowers on the flu or room for exchanger on top (and none of these stupid insulated pipes or pipes in liners), then it wouldn't matter. Yeah, if you have a long, exposed flu, then you're always going to recover a lot of heat from the surface area.
@@safffff1000I think blaze king says between 150 and 300 flue gas temp. I'm thinking that's at the exit of the stove, not the ceiling. If the flu gas is too cold perhaps changing to a better insulated pipe and or taller pipe might help. The flu gas has to be hot enough to draft well. Taller chimneys draft better, but too much draft and the blaze king will run too hot even at the lowest temperature/damper setting.
A lot of different opinions and schools of thought with these two systems, but I have overwhelmingly heard in favor of the tubes. A lot of variables with burn times. Stove manufactures and salespeople exaggerate the efficiency of their stoves.
@@embersliving lol i havent been to your shop but i been to the ones on union blvd and 8th......there used to be one by my house on louisiana and sheridan......all i gotta say is that martin isnt wrong
Until your flue gases get to 451F+ you won't get a secondary burn from the tubes either..that is needed to get the wood vapors to burn. I don't understand how the heat from cat is added to the box since it is on the outflow..it would result in cleaner air in the chimney but most of the heat would seem to be only in the initial part of the flue???
The fact I can make my own re-burn tubes if needed makes it a no brainer for me. My 9-10 hours is plenty long for a night burn. 77% efficient is enough lol
@@embersliving Having done Euro3 ,4 and 5 emission control systems in diesel engines and LPG this is a very interesting subject and amazes me that the automotive industry hasn't looked into this...its now got me thinking...but why has none of these got a water jacket? This is critical to a perfect system..
Many years back we had a cat stove and all tho we burned only dry hard wood we had moisture problems in the chimney. Yes we would follow the procedure to the letter and had a triple wall chimney and did get much longer burn times we (and the dealer) could not resolve the moisture issue. When we moved into another house we put in a cast iron box stove and it worked so much better.
I grew up with stoves older than I {I'm 58 now} they had air intake that screwed shut they seemed almost air tight never had a problem with then while away/sleeping this is what I am looking for my camp I am building... can you show me why and prove to me why I would want a newer EPA approved stove???
Doses the re burn make a fire look more out of control lol I had an old wood stove and replaced it with one with the re burner and im scared it's burning out of control up the pipes
Get a laser heat thermometer..the temp of 451F + to about 750F is safe. Measure at the flue stove connection not at the flame. If there is a lot of flame you most likely have an air leak. The "flame" of the secondary burn is above the wood..looks more colorful and not really touching the wood itself. Its wood vapor burning. Do the leak test..put a dollar bill in the door..at all places..if you can easily pull it out anywhere...you have an air leak..put in a new gasket.
Now enter in the equation of supply chain issues, and inflation going crazy. You better be buying a stack of those steel cats today and be sitting on them.
Good vid. I have a question, don't know if you still monitor this thread, but I am running a 2020 EPA non-canalytic stove, when it's time for me to turn in and I load it up for the overnight burn and close the air control it rolls smoke inside the fire box, while still burning very slowly. Is this how it is supposed to be operating, or am I not supposed to see any smoke rolling in the firebox whatsoever?
So, i heat with an 1984 Dutchwest Cat wood stove. Very hard to get part. But my entire house is only heated with that stove. It is extremally efficient. i only go through 4 cord a winter. The issue i have is finding replacement parts..grates, cats, and internal parts.. do you have any of those for my model?
@@embersliving the best selling points are that they last a lifetime if they are cared for.. very normal up here to see 50- 60 yr old stoves still in use..
My father always taught me to stuff some paper up the flew pipe and light it so it could not draft the heat up the chimney but that was with both a traditional fireplace and a pot belly stove
@@embersliving Not really. I have been using propane torch to heat the chimney and insides, for 1-2 minutes, then lighting the wood, arranged for top down burning. I wonder which producer would ever think of this, because a small hole in the door would come very handy for propane torch. The draft is way better and wood ignites smokeless in 40-60 seconds. One standard bottle can be used in a single season.
It must be similar to a propane heater with a ceramic core. But, in a wood stove, as the wood burns and emits gas vapor the vapor burns in the catalytic unit.
like a vehicle does with it's catalytic convertor , where is your store . I have a worthless fireplace in sounthside va . To me the whole wood stove throws off more heat . the house is a modular house built in 2004
I know you try to bring humor in your presentation. But it make it unnecessary long and missed the whole point of explaining what secondary burn does and catalytic burn does . 1. Secondary burn provide HEATED fresh air on top of the primary burn ( wood ) Heated air is readily combustible with unbuned smoke and wood gas . Simple operation . As long as the secondary air is properly heated it will burned when mixed with unburned wood gas and smoke and soot. Done . Catalytic converters work by chemically reaction changing unburned hydrocarbon/ wood gas and smoke and soot . Via catalyst made by precious metal such as palladium and platinum . This catalytic burn donot require oxygen . It break the hydrocarbons bond and generate heat . But catalytic converter has to be heated to operation temperature. Done ! . And yes catalytic converters and easily damaged by improper maintenance.
@@kelvinkonkel3351 The hotter stove from the start, not having to wait for heat. And less creosot. Less cleaning of the stove. And a much more enjoyable burn with flames for the ambiance and enjoyment of it all. The cozyness of it. I don't mind burning more wood. I don't mind a shorter burn time. I am up in the morning anyway and ready and willing to feed the stove. Not a horrible chore. I love it.
1. You said that the Catalytic Converter does not start working until the firebox is 500 degrees. What happens when the temperature starts going back down again (over time)? Does is stay in operation or does it stop at 500 degrees again? 2. I do not have a wood stove yet but I am getting one. You said the Catalytic Converter style is good for people who leave their house. Can you have a fire going in your wood stove... and leave your house? I would be afraid of burning my house down. Do you have to extinguish your fire if you have to go to the store? (Sorry. I am dumb). Haha.
The combuster uses platinum, not silver, silver has a much lower melting temperature. It really is only used to clean up the wood gas that isn't being burned by the fire because the damper is almost closed to limit the burn rate.
@@embersliving My feeling is The catalytic stove has not changed much in 20 years except it’s easier to change the element. The non-catalytic stove on the other hand has improved by leaps and bounds and still getting better! Also very small learning curve with the non-catalytic stove.
Hire a professional. And he comes out and cleans it with a wire brush. Don't always trust those so called professionals. Why don't you just tell how they are supposed to be cleaned!!!!!
@@embersliving Yeah, that's not very helpful. Like if you're looking for help on cleaning residue from your bathtub and didn't know how the last thing you want to hear is pay a ton for a professional to come do it. Pretty sure you see where I'm coming from right? But thanks for what help you could provide anyway
THE REASON WE USE A WOOD STOVE IS COST , AND MAINTANCE WITHOUT COMPROMISE OF ENVIORMENT . BALANCE IS AN EQUATION , AND COST PLAYS A PART ,FOR MOST OF US A LARGE PART
besides sleeping the most time away from keeping a fire going is work or going somewhere for the day. Work a 10 hr shift plus commute time... thats if you don't run by the store on your way back home. Need as long a burn time as you can get.
Do you know what kind of a system is in the Vermont Castings Resolute Acclaim? It is different from both the examples you used. They are calling it a "combustion package." Any idea how the efficiency of that system compares to the others?
