Viewer request video! Removing #5J2115SP's rusty and stuck steering clutch - without hydraulics - and my home built version of the Caterpillar steering clutch spring compressor tool...
“Man is a Tool-using Animal (Handthierendes Thier). Weak in himself, and of small stature, he stands on a basis, at most for the flattest-soled, of some half-square foot, insecurely enough; has to straddle out his legs, lest the very wind supplant him. Feeblest of bipeds! Three quintals are a crushing load for him; the steer of the meadow tosses him aloft, like a waste rag. Nevertheless he can use Tools; can devise Tools: with these the granite mountain melts into light dust before him; he kneads glowing iron, as if it were soft paste; seas are his smooth highway, winds and fire his unwearying steeds. Nowhere do you find him without Tools; without Tools he is nothing, with Tools he is all.” From Sartor Resartus by Thomas Carlyle
I have been taught so many things over the years, but what always sticks the most is what I learned from doing things the wrong way. I think they call that wisdom.
Pictures from the service manual are helpful, but videos like this are outstanding. Thank you again! It's December 2022 and I have my first D2 sitting beside my barn! 1954 5U14496 ..and it is a rough one!
I don't know who said but some geart philosophers or inventor, said " Give me a lever long enough, I can move the world." Thanks for taking us along on this mini-adventure removing that steering clutch! Always enjoy watching you and Sr. working on stuff. I've learned so much. Thanks for sharing....
We all learned by failing, as he states so correctly. Btw by trial and error l found an easy way to get 16 rollers off tapered (but unsplined) shafts on my Fiat 331c crawler: use a 2-arm puller (not a 3-arm) and after putting pressure on the puller hammer the wheel or hub alternatively on either side one hit at a time. Do this long enough and the thing will come off, because you wiggle it ever so slightly. Add pressure whenever it becomes less.
I used to refurbish big water pumps, and one of the ways l used to remove large impellers was to load them up with pressure then apply heat Then bugger off for a cup of tea. Normally after about 15 min to half an hour, bang! Job done.
When I was growing up ( and not having a lot of money) I used what I had, and I got things fixed. at 22:30 you said "you cant be afraid to try, and don't be afraid to fail." Good words to live by. Adapt, Improvise,and Overcome!
I didn’t have anything near as tough as that clutch hub you just did, but I bought an Oliver 88 a couple weeks ago (with the knowledge that the pto clutch pack was rusted tight) I pulled the assembly out of the tractor, and spent about 3-4 hours carefully taking it apart. I had to fight some, and ended up cutting a couple bolt heads off that were beyond loosening with heat and such, but got it apart, and saved the main drive shaft. I’m a happy camper!! I had enough spare parts to replace parts that were rusted beyond use, and am just waiting on a couple oil seals and gaskets to put it back together. 😊
Fabricating tools is just another way of solving the problem at hand; having the patience and understanding of how to use the tool properly to its most effective use is the key to its success or failure. I am truly impressed and inspired by your native ability to do both and do them well. Best wishes and be well my friend.
I was on pins and needles waiting to hear that back plate pop! Patience and perseverance, that was the ticket. Great video man! I am sure I would have broke that part.
20:33, I had to go into a can of worms with my late 50s D6 9U. The steering booster needed a reseal, found out both clutch packs needed replacing, and found one of the bushings at the bottom of the yoke was half broken. It wasnt the bushing itself but half of the framework immediately around the bushing was cracked. Through the top access hole, we were able to grind down the framework and weld the bushing back in place. 20 years later, it's still goin. Great vid, thanks for sharing.
In true cattapiller fashion everything is over built. Love the video cant wait for the next one these restore videos on the old cats are very entertaining and informative
I'm digging back through these older beginning vids of yourJ1113 restoration series, and I very much enjoyed this episode of working on the steering clutch plates, because it was one of the jobs I did working at a CAT plant that manufactured them. I did this in the '90s so there were some differences in a modern plate, but also mostly the same disks you have there.
14:10 I've had tapers let go just under steady puller pressure before, so I wouldn't be surprised if the time was an aspect as well as the cooling. Like tie rod ends, using one of those pivoting tools. Wind up the forcing screw; nothing. Walk away to get a hammer and bang! Everything's on the floor. 😂
Amazing how RUST can weld parts together. A solid joint that you can't mimic with most anything else. Nice to see it finally broke loose and came off. I make a lot of "special" tools when I need them. Sometimes that makes the real difference between success and failure. Always have to think of cleaver ways to beat the issue at hand. Thumbs Up.
Don’t need to burn those yokes out. Just heat it red hot or hotter then cool with cold tap water. Never turn or twist hot! Only after shocking with water. 👍
Since you were forced to torch out the yoke, you're in a really good position to answer the question "is the ball hardened", since you now have a scrapped yoke to experiment on - a few probes with a file, grinder should tell you (and us) a lot!
Great episode! I can't thank you again for making the comment that you learn when you fail! Failure only costs you some time and money, but you learn a lot. Many 30 and under people I meet today are afraid to try because they may fail, that is the wrong way to look at it! This is great advise to pass down to folks trying to work on these old machines. Also, be patient and let head, lubrication, and time help you, don't fight it! Great work! Keep it up!
Thanks for showing this! Learned some more, much less than if I'd actually had to do it myself! I can see why apprenticeships are a good thing. Learn the basics of your trade, then Master let's you loose on something with no guidance. If you were well taught and apt for the job, you likely succeed! Few apprenticeships now, sigh! All is forgotten as we sent such jobs to low cost labor places.
I found it amusing when the camera panned and showed the rebuilt engine for the cat, that the patina is so intact it does not look like it has ever been touched. The Rat Dozer.
I've had to heat things 3 or 4 times with cooling cycles to get components to bust loose. Some of the carburetors I have done for customers have been REALLY bad, almost as though they came off the deck of the sunken Titanic! No one talks about all of the shots Michael Jordan missed, they only talk about the ones he made. What people don't know is of all the shots he made, he missed 9,000! Proficiency takes practice..... I had to chuckle when you said you were 20 and had no money... Shoot, I still don't have any! LOL. Nice work!
Hey Toby just a thought lubricate your puller threads with a light Oil we ask a lot of these threads sometimes it really helps remove the threat of ruining the thread you know it’s When good pullers go bad That we are most disappointed
Its definitely amazing from when I started wrenching on cars I had just a handful of dads tools then went to a dealership at 17 now at 35 I got more tools than I now what to do with.
Thanks forthe video. I had frozen clutches on a 1955 International T6 that I had to disassemble as well. i wanted to see the design difference in the D2, it certainly looks more serviceable.
Salvage Workshop is working on an old tractor “Old Red” and he is experiencing exactly what you’re talking about, never give up! You, though are a Cadillac, it’s so interesting to see these old machines. Thanks for the extra video!
As auther's have said thanks taking the time see how that was done. Very interesting on how you did that. My dad was a gunsmith when he was a young man he made his own tools. I have all them to this day.
This was another fun video to watch. You have a lot of experience and wisdom to share and I’m glad you do it in such a fun way to watch. Not being afraid to fail is something we should all remember.
It took that clutch dozens of years to get that rusted to the shaft.. and just an hour of constant pulling force and some heat to free it up! Have had to wait much longer for splined shafts to free up.. Ive got memories of fighting rusted splines for days, keeping big pressure on those usually got me winning in the end. But also have had all kinds of pullers and/or studs break and launch across the workshop with huge speed/force.. once broke all 5 m14 hardened bolts from a stuck wheelhub launching the huge puller setup into the door of a car in the next workbay 5 metres away. (bossman wasnt happy about that one :P)
I’m in awe of your work. Just binged all 100ish D2 1113 videos. I’m a Land Rover fan (hey, no one’s perfect!) and always thought they were pretty sturdy but... really amateur efforts compared to Caterpillar. Your approach to doing jobs is also a great inspirtion. Thank you!
Great job, showing taking your time and let metal allergy work for you !! Don’t get in a hurry & start hitting things with a big hammer. That tool service manual looks awesome for antique rebuilds
Hi Toby, you are so calm doing these awkward jobs! I read somewhere that an old fashioned paraffin blow lamp can put out more heat than an oxy acetylene torch. Nothing like as high a temperature of course, but considerably more thermal output - and it would be 'softer'. Might be worth a try sometime. BobUK.
I love your gentleness, respect and well balanced approach to steel, iron and metal. If you show some respect for the build in properties and "personality" of the material, the battling negotiation usually ends better than the other way around. I suppose "determined gentle respect" is your signum. Thanks from Sweden!
Great job on the disassembly Squatch253. I keep taking notes and saving videos here and thete of you tools you make for your D2's. I have a RD4 that I'm hoping to finally get picked up late on next spring 2021. Thanks for allows taking the time to explain in such great detail.
Thanks for the video, that’s the point I am at on my 5U3607. Great quality video, explained precisely an great pointers on tool fabrication, now off to scrounge some metal!
When dealing with tapers, heat hub hot, apply pressure from pulling device and then cool hub with a garden hose. A lot of graders had tapered drive axles, works good most of the time. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video. I just did my D2 5U12016 in somewhat worse condition. It was coil bound and had to sacrifice the springs and the pins with a torch Did save everything else. Keep up the good work. Herb
If you have never tried and/or heard of the heat/cool system, this is how it works, you start by torching the frozen part that you are trying to free form another metal part to a heated cherry red, then you immediately and thoroughly douse the frozen part with applied cold water, this creates a shock to the metal. This method first expands the metal and then quickly retracts the metal in a split second of time. This system will sometimes cause the metal to actually pop itself free of the frozen bond that it has made to an adjoining metal part. As they say, Try It You May Like It !!!
If you heat the center only, the hub will not expand as the cold outer circumference keeps it tight. With time, the heat will transfer to the outer part of the hub allowing it to expand and release from the taper shaft.
At time 20:08 seized bolt. I found a product that you should try. It's called Blaster Dry Lube with Teflon. I had a SS manifold with a SS bolt. You know SS to SS has a high possibility of seizing up. I had an extra manifold so I set the problem one aside to work on later. Some years later after messing with it a few times I tried the Blaster. It worked almost like MAGIC. The bolt backed out like it had never been stuck. The Blaster has a very thin carrier with a very find teflon powder. The carrier evaporates quickly leaving the teflon powder. Please give it a try and see if you have similar experience. Cheers and enjoy the end of the year holidays.
You need a bigger adjustable hammer! Lol. That looks like a farmers tool kit you got there in this video. 1 big wrench and hammer and several adjustables
the reason you heat an item is because for each 100C o heat u apply to steel it expands by about 1.5mm, now that pushes it to fill all space it can, and when it can't, things tend to elongate(as it cant expand in all directions) a little breaking free any rust etc, and when it cools down it returns to its original(or as close to it as it can) shape, now with that space. it isn't the heating you want, its the heating and cooling.
