HONDA CBX 1000 BIG BORE KIT CONVERSION FROM 1050 TO 1425 BY ROBINSON PRECISION ENGINES 11.5 MM OVER SIZE BORES, REGROUND CAMS, PORTED HEAD, FLAT SLIDE CARBY'S,6 INTO 1 EXHAUST, DYNO RUN ENGINE PRDUCED 165HP @ 10,000 RPM
Restoring my 1979 kz 1300 want change from shaft drive into chain drive. Bike been sitting in garage 38 years only has 2200 kilometers. Absolutely beautiful work! She pushing near 160 rwhp? I was close, now put turbo on her,lol.
awesome video and killer bike we had a couple locals use them in hillclimbs with paddle tires and they sure through the dirt in the air . thanks for the vid .
@fatpigbonzo , STANDARD CAPACITY ENGINE WITH TUNNED LENGTH 6 INTO 1 EXHAUST AND 34 MM MIKUNI FLAT SLIDE CARYS JETED AND SINCRINIZED, THE EXHAUST WHEN I FIRST PUT IT ON WAS NOT TUNNED AND IT KNOCKED HP OUT OF THE ENGINE WHEN THE EX WAS FIXED IT PICKED UP GOOD HP.IT WAS VERY NOTICEABLE WHEN RIDDEN. THE CARBYS TOOK AWAY ALL THE STD CARBY PROBLEMS TO START WITH AND MADE IT BREATHE HEEPS BETTER ,SOME WOULD SAY THERE TO BIG BUT THEY RAN GREAT ON THE 1050 BUT RUN REAL WELL WITH THE 1425.HUGH
Honda six? It's called the CBX, not the Honda six, and by trying to make yourself sound cool & clever, you've only actually succeeded in making yourself sound like a knob as Honda has knocked out a few six cylinder bikes, the CBX was NEVER referred to as the Honda six!
what was the torque number (i dont really understand your countrys measurments when it comes to that could you include before and after tourque?). it really loads the shocks on the throttle, NICE!! sounds wunderbar!
Hey WOW I love it - I absolutely love the silver Comstars! TOO COOL. But one suggestion - and not to kick the tires at all - just an idea to keep all of that power from that thing sticking to the road instead of going up in smoke: The front silver comstars aren't ALL 19" only - you could use an 18" front rim from CM400T with a 2.50" rim from say, GL1100 etc - or a rim from any rear wheel I suppose - and then furthermore the rear silver comstar rim could be welded up, Kosman style, to something on the order of 3.50" - 4.50" or thereabouts? I've just got rims this size for my CB900F, albeit wire spoke, and I haven't even stuck 'em on the bike yet it's ridiculous that I'm even typing right now - but yeah you can get into the 110/80 or 120/70 front & 160/60 rear tires - introductory widths for radial tires! There are a lot of fellas over in France who build rim sets like these for the RCB1000 replicas, they make rivets for rebuilding the rims, with the "HONDA" logo stamped into 'em and everything. So it needn't be some type of rinky-dink thing that you'd have to worry about. Of course, the Kosman wheel trick has been done for years now, I only suggest a rebuilt front wheel as a savings against doing BOTH rims via Kosman. But yeah - silver non-reverse Comstars are a MUST on any of these bikes, I dunno why people even bother spending on Astralites 'cause the COMSTARS were the better wheels in the first place. Well, maybe not FIRST - guess I'd have to look into Astralite history ha-ha. No really though - if you're concerned about the heavier hub in the Comstar, vs the Astralite having basically two identical light-weight hubs? Well then why not use two FRONT Comstar rims? With some type of bolt-on cush-drive in the vein of early Ducati disc-type Grimeca hubs? There are several different Ducati cush-drives that seem like they'd bolt to the Comstar with little or no modification, or perhaps a smaller Comstar cush or spoke-hub cush could be milled down to suit - complete with the carrier etc - this would save a butt-load of weight back there in the bike's butt end. And it could use the same five through-bolts as are normally holding the dual discs, just instead holding a disc and a cush element! It might not look so much like the stock Comstar hub I suppose, the blades would be different. But if you look at the early Honda factory type RCB rear hubs - or perhaps it's the later year RCB's I'm thinking of - they've got much smaller hubs that seem to be made from a simple cylindrical billet. And of course the forged blades of the wheel are shaped differently as well, with more open space in the center of each. All the same - there WERE basically stock Silver Comstars on RCB's with wider D.I.D. rims riveted to them, just as the later factory racer CB1100R endurance racers used a 3.5"x18" rear rim with a different rim than was riveted to the CBX750F, VF1000F etc Boomerang Comstars. It's just that the SILVER wheels were the progenitors of the whole breed and are hence immensely more cool..... ANYWAY - just a suggestion! I know a lot of 1979 CBX and DOHC-4 owners love their silver Comstars but kvetch about the 2.15" rim and so many folks go to the 17" rims and just destroy the whole look of the bike when there's a better way a "middle path" - albeit, not nearly as cheap as picking up any odd pair of discarded GSX-R or CBR rims! Possibly even more expensive than the wire-spoke stuff I'M into. One idea I'm really keen to get into - my CB900F is slowly transforming into an homage to the '65 CB450 Black Bomber, this is an off-shoot of the wire rims (being that everybody ELSE got around to doing it while I was struggling to pull it off due to finances, a fire that destroyed my bikes, etc etc - EXCUSES! Ten damn years I've been struggling to pull this off! ha-ha) ANYWAY - yeah I've snagged a CB1100R gas tank and am in the midst of polishing the sides for wing badges and rubber knee pads - NOW what I wanna do is fit up a GL1500 41mm TRAC fork, and turn the GL1500 or PC800 front wheel - into a wire-spoke faux-drum conversion much in the vein of what folks are doing with the CBX550F Comstar hub with the internal discs - the GL1500 would require entirely rebuilt shrouds, but they're purely decorative so it's a blank canvas with which to work. Whether to do 'em in alloy or to cast 'em in fiberglass or even plastic - it's all open. And yeah - 41mm TRAC fork WITH 296mm rotors AND a 20mm axle as stock! Seems like an ideal upgrade! Right now, I've got the CBX pro-link caliper hangers and vented 296mm rotors from a GL1100A Aspencade, with a non-TRAC 39mm fork, but I'm putting my spare 39mm CB900F fork onto my Ex-Daughter's "KZ440LOL" using the 39mm fork to accommodate the GT750J 4LS drum between it's stanchions. (And a Borrani 3.00x16" chopper rim wrapped around THAT, and a 110/80-16 Maxi-Scooter radial tire wrapped around IT. And that's just the front tip of the thing!) What I'm getting at, is the 39mm fork on the KZ is just gonna make the 39mm on my Honda look SKINNY on the bigger bike! I suppose they'll both have shrouds and boots - but I had bought the 39mm fork thinking I was still building a CB750K or CB750F, as I was shopping for a replacement for the burnt bike at the time. Now with the heavier more powerful Honda I figure IT deserves upgrades too, and in the same vein as before, sticking with Honda stuff that's close enough to pass for original. The GL1500 fork ain't exactly like the CB1100R fork, or even a VF1000F TRAC fork - but it's very similar I figure it should pass with flying colours. Gonna be a trick though, re-shrouding those 296mm rotors is about as daunting as milling down and lacing up the cast wheel "hub" in the first place! It's just that a CB450 Black Bomber homage - working title "Bol Bomber" - it DEMANDS something like a drum up front, only I know that a drum would be inadequate. Maybe a Kawasaki factory H1R 270mm 4LS drum might JUST cut it, but that would cost an arm and a leg. I think the 296mm dual-disc should be about equivalent to the 296mm dual disc CB1100R-style system I'm already working with. Won't be a down-grade at all - and IF it works it might just become the new standard for ALL of these "Hailwood Replica" style DOHC four and CBX builds out there. Any way you slice it - the GL1500 fork is an interesting option, whether for the adaptability to larger rotors and 20mm axle for modern wheels, or the fact it bolts up easily enough - it's neat. Only - I look at the top yoke and it's a bit FUGLY. Might be a good idea to make a billet yoke for it down the road, bevel route the edges and file it down to the shape of an older Ceriani yoke or some such. Then again, with the bar clamps filed off it might just look the part already. Under my bubble fairing it'll work either way - but what I'll wanna do once I've got that fork in place, is fit a CB450 style twin-needle oval clock, recessed into the headlight nacelle - maybe one of them CB92-CB72 type fly-screens with the alloy wedge clamps along the bottom? That'd be sweeeeeet..... There's a lot that hasn't yet been done with these bikes, I know there are a lot of established standards, and it seems even the Hailwood Replica CBX's are all the rage right now - but I haven't yet seen a CBX themed after the RCB 1000. Seen a couple or two done up after the CB1100R, though not with the factory colours. Tanks and seat, fairing - that's about it. Would be cool with the factory paint, gaudy and fugly as that red, white, blue & gold scheme might be. The RCB on the other hand, same colours while at the same time more of a classic '70s racer look, not too far off from a CR750 scheme really. Just a thought. Maybe an RCB themed CBX would just look like a Moto Martin CBX special but without the frame, as the dual headlight fairings seemed very similar. Maybe if my CB900F "Bol Bomber" comes off well, folks would even consider a CB72-CB77 themed CBX? The rear-sets and wire wheels at the very least - throw in some faux chrome on the tank and it's nearly there! Ah well - you've already done so much, I wouldn't suggest that you should think of your bike as un-finished. Though they never really are anyway....
WOW. Is that a widened rear rim? I love what you did with the swinger too. The whole package, without the cheap looking 17" rims and alloy fireblade swingers and USD front end that people usually RUIN these bikes with, I just love the whole package. I'm on the CB1100F.net forum, and I see a lot of "frankenbikes", and yours is definitely NOT one of those! Beautiful. I'm also curious about the rods, they're cut from billet? Are they reliable like that? I mean, this is such a dead reliable motor...
Nice work, I am a fan of the bike and yours just sounds ferocious. I think a turbo would ruin the NA fun that this bike has to offer, sadly my Nighthawk S won't keep up 👍
No it won't keep up! But a nighthawk s is unkillable... so ride on my friend....from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠🇺🇸p.s stay safe and healthy everybody GOD BLESS OUR COUNTRY
five hundred is cheap to press out sleeves bore out barrel make new o/s sleeves press in deck top of barrel then bore and hone six cylinders I charge $1500 and thats good value for the amount of work.but if he is only borring for the 1150 wisco kit thats only a $300 job.
New cams, bigger valves, ported heads would do that. Add on the top of that the fact that inlet & exhaust used to to be very restricted back then. Therefore, the custom exhaust would give people massive bhp gains.
130/140 rwhp IS Lots For That Mill I Had A Kitted 79 For 3yrs and Awesome My Two Bro Each Had One To . My Younger Bro And I Rode Around LOTS Both With Headers lol EPIC
Not much left of that block after boring for the new sleeves.....lots of windows. Same problem exists SOHC CB750's. I had billet blocks made with extremely generous finning and no air passages between 1/2 and 3/4. No sleeves either...Nikasil. I have ported several CBX heads (my own included) and to be perfectly honest the design isn't very good at all. 1 & 6 ports should have a single valve as the most lateral port gets nothing. 2 & 5 aren't much better. Then the completely different port lengths. Guide boss cannot be reduced much as it gets thin under the spring seat. A pretty complex engine for sure. Most examples are owned by old men that enjoy bragging about how many NOS tanks, Sport Kits etc etc etc they have and are unwilling to part with. :) Looking at the OEM parts fiche brings nothing but "discontinued" except for nuts and bolts. My 1314cc FJ1200 has a bit over 160Hp and was much easier to build BUT a CBX is a CBX is a CBX. My advice is don't crash it!
Well, newer bikes have advanced electronics, higher compression ratio and injectors instead of carbs. Which easily explains an HP difference. And the cbr 1000 rr has 177 HP @ 12000 rpm vs this motorcycle which has 165 HP@ 10000 rpm. Rpm difference explains the HP difference. Just stating an amount of HP is useless without mentioning an rpm. Also measuring at the crank or the backwheel makes a big difference. Do a quick search on google and you will easily get more info.
