CD32 Repairs and Recap | Trash to Treasure pt2 

The zen like state of the recap job is how I find inner peace Clint. Ohmmm. Looking forward to playing some games now.

Oh hi. Didn't expect to see you here.

The Caps look like they have seen some things

Hail to the king! 😁

Great to see you here. I'm a huge fan!

Agreed. You are a madman.

You may just as well run UAE on a raspberry pi. Compatibility is near 100%, and it's doing cycle accurate simulation.

Ooh now that is interesting. Differences on the same revision board could definitely cause some confusion if assumptions are made

Thank you Pedro I'm glad you enjoyed it

Cheers. The reward of a working system is worth it 🖒

ste309w excellent work well done. Saved just in time 🖒🕹

RetroManCave Cheers! Hopefully all will be good once I've done that. Not looking forward to a complete recap.

Hi again. What capacitors would you recommend to replace those 2? I can't quite make out the voltage and resistance rating on the sides because of the residue. I think they're rated at 10v? Thanks.

GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods I'll look those up for the window thank you. Interestingly in another comment someone had a rev 3 board which is labelled and fitted correctly so it's not a given they are wrong. Well worth double checking! Great to see you here as always 🖒

When I got my CD32, I instantly checked the capacitors. As I had done some background research of CD32. On mine they were fitted correctly, though I cannot be sure, if someone had corrected them earlier... Though I have a memory, that I didn't see soldering marks on capacitors. Anyway, I didn't do anything else, because the machine is in very good order. Very clean and no scratches. And what is most important, CD reads very, very well :) I just need a good gamepad for it now and I won't pay 100€ for one, so that too is going to be a challenge ;) Not so lucky on my STFM and STE, though. I'll probably start by getting a repair kit for their PSUs... And of course, then there is always the Acorn Archimedes with quite bad corrosion from leaked (clock/memory) cap... That one is going to be a real test ;) I need more time and money :D

Good man I always love to hear of people being inspired to get going. Break things until you make them work :D

EXO 2xii you're welcome and thank you for watching

MadPete It is amazing how many people are scared of learning to read a few block diagrams and schematics tbh. I hope vids like Neils will encourage more people to give it a go, as it can help narrow down certain faults VERY quickly at times. (assuming the rest of the caps in a device might be OK, and the fault is only in one area.) For people who are only just starting to read schematics, it can be daunting, but a good tip is that you can often work backwards from the video / audio outputs instead. You should then instantly see the caps and other components that are involved in those outputs, find the designator (eg. C236 etc.), then locate it on the board. You don't necessarily re-cap every retro machine of course, but many of them were only designed to last maybe 5-6 years (if that), so if you ,REALLY care to preserve these machines for many more years / decades, then replacing the electrolytics very often helps. There is still a big issue atm with "fake" / poor quality cheap caps though, and the fallout from an apparent case of espionage and stolen electrolyte formulas. Only a few trusted sources of good electrolytics remain, like Panasonic, Vishay, Dubillier, Nichicon, but they can often be quite expensive when a lot of caps are needed. Personally, I have often just took a chance on some lesser-known brands, and they are still often preferable to bulging / leaky original caps. (eg. I re-capped a 3DO FZ-1 the other day, and used some rather cheap "105C" rated caps from an eBay UK seller. They might not be the best quality caps, but I think they will be more than good enough, and way better than the failing originals.) Best to periodically check them though, or even better - check them with an ESR meter that is designed to work in-circuit. ;)

It has a great subscription number, given the niche subject.

Thanks and welcome to the cave Carl

It's always nice to track it down instead of blanket fixing it if possible, we learn more that way

The A570. I too had that back in the day long after CDTV had failed but the PDTV CD's kept me busy for hours and hours. I'd love to get one.

Thank you for watching

Well that's good to hear, I don't have an A600 but no doubt it will need a recap when I get hold of one

Ah now that would explain the confusion at C= a little better. Thanks for that

You will enjoy episode 3 in a couple of weeks when some recent orders arrive then :). Cannon Fodder was a game I watched Jon Hare demo at an expo way back when it was in beta on a gigantic screen. When it came out I played it so much I would hear the damn "eurgh" sound of the soldiers in my sleep. Great memories

RetroManCave I was playing it on an emulator not so long back, still a funny and playable game I think

Nice work I bet that was satisfying so see fixed as a result

Mate the recordings it makes sound beautiful! best tape deck ive ever owned

Polymer capacitors are designed to last 20 years under normal usage, whereas electrolytics typically have a 5-10 year lifespan.

Those were all electrolytics he replaced.

Even my 775 Gigabyte motherboard cardboard box says in big print that they replaced most of caps with solid state ones for higher durability. By description, I consider electrolytic caps to be those standard non-solid aluminum electrolytic bulging bastards - just to make it simple.

I have very shaky hands too, and not the best grip. But I do manage to solder and paint. A good work surface where I can rest my elbows is important, and taking a moment to work out the best angle to work at. I try to take the strain off my hands by moving the object around rather than soldering at a difficult angle. But anyone starting out soldering, shaky hands or not should start with some trash boards to learn first.

I picked one up at an expo recently which is fine and I have 2 being donated, one is broken so when they arrive I might include a repair in part 3... we shall see!

Qun Mang a sad and familiar tale indeed. Thank you for sharing your memories

And thank you, sir, for taking the time to reply, and especially for what you you do on this channel.

Ah yes I know the stuff, might be worth getting a few in stock for future work