i removed the centrifugal start switch assembly from a 1/2 hp 115 volt motor, and replaced it with a solid state relay. it no longer needs a centrifugal start switch!
Hi I am looking to do something like this I have a old 1/4 hp motor with out a centrifugal start switch or a capacitor, but a 2 way toggle switch one side for start the other side to run. So I like to know what relay you are using and if you think it will work for me so I can just have a on & off switch? Thanks Nice info on the video.
if you are just looking for single direction operation, a simple SPST toggle switch will work just fine. if you need the motor to go in both directions, a DPDT toggle switch would be necessary. the switch i am using in this video is meant for a capacitor start motor and would not be the best thing for your motor
Great video. If the centrifugal switch is not releasing would this cause for the motor to draw higher current. My motor runs approximately 3amp without load and about 4-6 amp with load. I have found when the switch is not opening the current jumps to 22amps. The problem was a dead capacitor which I feel was the cause from the centrifugal switch not releasing when motor on. I find that the switch only doesn't release when the load is on the motor soon as I put some load after turning the motor on and off eventually the switch doesn’t release and the current jumps higher. The switch looks clean and no damage. Any help to diagnose is appreciated. Cheers
Hello, the increase in amps could be caused by the motor trying to start without sufficient capacitance to give the motor the push to get it rotating. a motor is basically short circuiting on start up, if the motor's rotor doesn't turn, there is little resistance and the rotor will be like a conductor, the start switch acts like a phase shifting devise, causing rotation due to the phase imbalance it creates. A secondary problem could exist. the start winding is shorted and there is little or no resistance in the start circuit. when the start switch is activated (which it should be until about 65 to80% of rated motor speed) the charge from the start capacitor is supposed to be momentarily (within 15 to 30 seconds) introduced into the start winding. once the motor is up to the predetermined speed the flyweights in the centrifugal start switch push on the start switch and open the start circuit, the motor then runs on the main windings without input from the start circuit. if bearings are bad, belts misaligned, high starting loads are incurred, the motor may not perform optimally and may account for higher current draw if any or all conditions outlined exist. A shorted main winding would also cause high current draw for many of the same reasons. i would consider and recommend continuity testing of the start, run circuits and inspection for the centrifugal start switch assembly
Thanks for reply. I opened it today again and found that the switch wasn't closed on one side so no continuity. My understanding that both sides of the switch should be connected when the motor is off. Took it off, cleaned it and reinstalled it. Made sure that the switch is closed. Did a quick test with a load and so far the maximum current was approximately 7amps. Had it running for 20min with no load and it was fine with current of 2.95amps. I'll have to use it on the next job and see how it goes. Cheers
I have an old Emerson 3/4 hp motor. It is off of my Grandfather's table saw. I tried to fix it because it would just buzz very loud and not start. The contacts for the starter, one pad is missing on one side, but the way it looks to me is, the contacter is normally open . Is this possible? Looks like when the Centrifugal clutch should pop out, it closes the contacts. Just the opposite of what I'm seeing on other videos. I've looked it over and to me , it seems to work that way. My contacter looks very similar to yours. Any help on this? Am I missing something? I am assuming this is a single contact, using the two arms for contact. The center part of this is just the return spring, or is that also a contact for start , and the arms for run? I would think if it buzzes it has a chance to run?
the centrifugal switch should be normally closed. that means it is always trying to use the capacitor until the motor is up to about 2/3 of rated speed. at that point, the centrifugal switch is opened by the flyweights centrifugal force, or spring force, and the capacitor recharges. the capacitor is ready for the next start cycle or heavy load. if the motor encounters a load of 1/3 of the rated speed, the centrifugal switch is enacted again due to the loss of centrifugal force by the flyweights, or the effect of spring force, dumping the capacitor charge into the start circuit to bring the motor back up to speed. if you motor buzzes, the start circuit or the run circuit may be open. the start switch should have 3 contacts, the normally closed contact discharge the capacitor, the normally open contact recharges the capacitor. if your normally open contact tip is missing, the capacitor is not likely charging up. this will make the motor buzz , as there is no current going through half of the windings. your motor needs 2 poles to run, and an extra for starting
@@mikewalton5469 it is one of the rubber like pads that was riveted to one of the arms. That's what's missing. Looks like the plunger is holding the contactor open and when the weights are supposed to open , the plunger on the clutch disengages , which would allow the contacts to close. Doesn't make sense to me. Is their something I can get to replace that pad?
Hello. Do you know how to test a electronic start switch (Wascator S9807, maximun start winding current 50A 3S Duty, I found the electronic tests for another brand of switch called Sinpac 956605. Will the tests be the same for the Swicth Wascator (220V wascomat washing machines)? And what would be the meaning of 3S duty on the label? It is for a Wascomat washing machine 220 V. Best regards
Could you send me the diagram of how you connected the starting coils and work coils, so I can identify your connection correctly, please, my motor only has a starting capacitor. thank you so much.
Hey man I have a 230v 5hp ge motor on my air compressor. My switch just broke and I have literally scoured the internet looking for a replacement. Would this work for me too?
So I just started looking for one that big and the largest I found was 100 amp. Could you recommend a place what I could find one? And as for wiring everything up, I’d remove the board, connect wires to each other where they would have been in the board, and the relay would go on the start cap wires?
www.partsfps.com/switch-for-hobart-part-271612-2 this is the cheapest place i have found (but that doesn't mean anything, you may have a cheaper outlet)
