Looks awesome! I’m planning a build right now and stumbled upon this after seeing Rubio applied on tables and the like. Looks like this comes out really consistent with a little effort! Great work!
A nice job! Ash, especially light "swamp" ash is best for this, a wire brush with the grain (I hear some lightly sandblast) does a lot to open up the grain for higher contrast.
@@erikguitardesigner Please do, because if it turns out good I'm gonna do the same. I want something that looks like a reverse Jackson Pro DK2 Modern Ash in Baked White. I've never seen it done ever so it would be very unique.
This is awesome, I'm going to try this in the next few weeks. Just to be sure - you hit the body with the sponge right after the 1 coat of black and then the rag after 10 min of sitting after that? No other drying times etc? Thanks a ton! Great work
@@erikguitardesigner For sure. Great job. I’m also curious if combining this method with the Japanese Shou Sugi Ban torch method would be cool - I have seen a couple of videos utilizing both but on wood in general - not on a guitar body.
Looks amazing. Your links go to a warning page, so I'm on their direct website. A couple questions, the first may be a stupid one. 1. Does this then need a top clear coat? 2. Is it resistant to fading? 3. I am using it on a flat slab original P-bass swamp ash shaped body (Warmoth made), and want to end up with all the pores eventually filled for a smooth top. Could I use a clear grain filler over this process (then a wipe on poly to seal it again?)
I've seen a few Suhr quitars that were finished like this (magenta looked really nice). You're doing a great job. Best way to highlight the grain. ✌️🇦🇺
This is amazing. I have an amazing Warmoth Tele in Ash that I am dying (no fun intended) to do a Ceruse Finish on. Can you get that Rubio in a color other than gray? I was looking online but I am not sure I am searching the correct product. This finish you did was amazing. Seeing this makes me think this is totally do-able.
Totally do-able! If you want to change the silver/gray that I used, look through the "2C Oil Plus" products. It's a bit frustrating because their website is a tad outdated, but I hope that helps. Oh and make sure you get the accelerator, too!
@@erikguitardesigner I have watched this video several times lol I also ordered another body as well :) Here is a question. What kind of clear did you use on this? I am not really set up to spray stuff, so I typically send finished bodies to a guy who clears them, but what product will cover this without harming it?
@@negative2974 I use spray can nitro from stew mac, just a couple quick coats or more depending on how glossy you want it. There are good wipe on products as well like minwax poly, and there's a product i've used from Livos that I really like that is all natural/no chemicals. Check them out here: www.livosusa.com/
@@erikguitardesigner wait what? Are you saying you sprayed clear over the Rubio Monocoat? I've used Rubio on coffee tables, end tables and desks and the stuff is very durable. It was originally designed as a finish for wood floors. Why did you choose to put Nitro Lacquer over it? Is it because you wanted a more glossy finish? Did you consider skipping the nitro?
@@bammortgage because I do what I want! lol I do like the glossy nature of it but that's also just what I'm used to. I haven't done enough of these to see how it wears in to judge whether or not it was necessary. I did another one where I just wiped on wax coat. Doesn't hurt anything but that wasn't my way of saying rubio monocoat isn't durable, i'm just used to putting a finish coat on everything.
Awesome results. I have two questions for you though.instead of silver could I get the pure and add mica powder pigments and what is a suitable clear coat to use after?
That might work. The fun thing with guitar finishes is that it may take a few tries to get it right so practice on some scrap wood and see what works. For a clear coat the most I use anymore is a few thing coats of nitro. I hate sanding, polishing and buffing. The time and effort aren’t worth it to me.
Very nice finish ! One question : What did apply before Rubio coats ? I see the body is not natural ash but has a "honey" color at the beginning of your video. Thanks a lot !
@@erikguitardesigner Ok Erik. Thanks a lot for your reply and help. I've never seen a swamp ash like this one. It looks like slightly roasted. Nice work again !
I sprayed a couple thin coats of nitro and got the sheen i was looking for. I’ve been told the wax is good enough on it’s own though so i might go without from now on.
Do you think if I put an additional rubio midnight indigo blue on it, it would make sense? Because I'd like it in a black and blue color scheme, but I'm afraid the blue won't show up and stand out as nicely as the silver. That's why I thought to put the silver first, and then put the blue on it some more :D What do you think?
It's worth a shot! I'm not sure if it would make a difference, might ultimately depend on how dark the wood is to begin with. That's the great thing about wood finishing is that it takes experimentation. You might be on to something really cool!
@@erikguitardesigner The wood is swamp ash, so very bright! Well just tomorrow my rubio will arrive and I am struggling with thoughts whether to put rubio silver gray first on black rubio precolor easy and then midgniht indigo, or just on black precolor put midnight indigo right away. I would really hate to waste this body, because I have made deep furrows in wood grain, so it will be hard to sand it smooth again. But thanks for your answer! It might actually be worth taking a risk and doing a little experiment. I just hope that rubio oil 2c will layer on top of other oil 2c, just like on precolor
I always save scraps of wood to do tests on for this reason. Or at least they’re good for practice before the real thing. The Rubio products are amazing though and super easy to use.
its awesome. but im not good at english, so i got some question.. could you tell me is it correct? 1st. Rubio black + accelerator 2nd. Rubio silver + accelerator and it’s another question, is there any recommendation of finish coat? or is it enough without finish coat? i don’t want to lacquer nitro finish because of sticky
Man I love how this wood looks and I’d love to have a guitar like this but I can’t get something made out of a tree like this. They’re getting wiped out in the U.S. I’d rather get something made of a more common wood even if it’s not as pretty.
please , the first hand was black water based paint ok the second hand which is white what would be the product ? and finally true oil is applied? thanks so much
Wow, that really turned out nice! I have to wonder what a neck (flame/birdseye) would look like finished like your guitar's body. Lastly, that was awesome wood grain you selected. Cheers!
Great job. You mentioned that you sanded to 320 grit and then used Rubio Monocoat, but they recommend no more that 150 grit to ensure the wax/oil will penetrate. Did you have any issues? I plan on doing the same finish and wanted to hear your thoughts.
Just finished online chat with a Rubio Coat representative, asked him my same questions that I already asked here. Here is what they said. No top coat needed or recommended due to the was in the product. One concern is that since the 2C Oil Plus part is mostly wiped off, the pre-color isn't a top coat, so will it have enough protection as it is? He also said grain filler won't be compatible with it either. He also said it's not compatible with poly for a top coat.
The real question is how much protection does it need? I like using thin finish options because I like my guitars to be easily relicc'd and I don't use grain fillers either. I have sprayed a few thin coats of nitro over their products before and It seems to hold but don't expect a clear/glossy/mirror finish. It just starts to shine a little more the more coats you spray. If you're looking for something you can spray a glossy mirror coat with grain filler I'd look into spraying and hand painting the grain lines.
@@erikguitardesigner Yes I prefer the thin hand rubbed finishes too, and have mostly gone with Tru oil and Tung oil varnish before even without grain filling. The pores are pretty tight on this particular piece anyway, more the straight tighter grain, so I know it won't have the wider contrast areas like you got with this Tele, more like striping/zebra kind of thing which should look cool too. So I'm not going to be concerned with grain filling nor even a top coat after all actually. The satin look like you got here will be awesome. They said you can apply maintenance coats of the oil part down the road if it starts to show signs of wear, but the relic look is fine too, so that natural wear over time will be fine. The best news is how simple and easy it is, not requiring a bunch of expensive products and steps (ie dyeing, sanding sealer, then highlight gel stain, then top coats). This will literally be two products (well three with the accelerator) and two steps. What you got is definitely what I've been looking forward to doing on a bass. I am going to pair it with a raw Wenge neck, the coloration and streaks should be similar and compliment it.