The engineer of the Nissan GT-R was on another RU-vid video stating(through his interpreter), that if you want you car to last 500,000 or more you need to change the oil every 3000 miles, and change the oil filter every 6000 miles. ESPECIALLY on a turbocharged engine. He also stated eventhough synthetic oil is superior to regular oil, it's not that much better. So, he said, if you want to save money you can use regular oil because it's being changed so often.
I watched that guy too, and although I'm a nobody, but I love and care for my cars, I've always thought and practiced exactly what he said. Well, he actually said it in Japanese, but that other guy did a great job translating. Nice to find out I've been right all along.
In the business now for about 25 years and couldn't agree with you more! Your advice is especially true and necessary on modern emission controlled diesel cars and trucks!!
Look up New York taxis test oils. You will find there is no more wear on engines with less expensive oils than the expensive oils. Best oil is clean oil. Oil takes in gas water carbon acids while driving thousands of miles. Best insurance for your car/truck is clean oil. A cheap insurance for your engine.
I've heard about New York taxi test. Fleet tests are the only real world way to prove or disprove mechanical theories related to maintenance. One conclusion knowing about this fleet test led me to is that there is no point in paying more for products with specifications that you will not, in fact, utilize. For example, why do I need to worry about the flow rate of different oils at -40? It never gets below the mid-20s in any place I have lived in the last 40 years, except one, where it hit the teens a couple of times every year. A premium oil filter has no value if you change your oil every 3000 miles or less. My thought is, there is no substitute for clean oil. Used oil contains contaminants that an oil filter is not designed to remove and no filter can removes. The claim made by the manufacturers of premium oils like Royal Purple and Amsoil is only that their products neutralize these contaminants better than cheaper synthetics or conventional oil. Maybe they do, but draining your oil and replacing it with clean oil means that they are not there in the first place in the concentration high mileage creates. Myself, I own a Japanese car where 5W-30 conventional was original oil. I use either that or 10W-30 and change it every 3000 miles or less. I may switch to semi-synthetic since conventional is becoming less available, but I am only going increase my change interval by 500 miles. Right now, 2500 miles is my preferred interval. With semi-synthetic, I'll make it 3000 miles.
@Peter Angles mayb ur right mayb ur not, long reply was fine, tagging some1's height, weight, skin color, length of reply, mayb not the survey going on here. Short, over short oil changes vs drive it into ground, cheap vs dear oil, came with Model T's when the masses could afford. Nothing new to see here. Stay safe stil in the covid bubble.
It's interesting, the recommended oil change interval on my Toyota Prius is 5,000 miles. I've changed it regularly for the last 280,000 miles, and the engine still uses less than a quart of oil between changes. With that low oil consumption, I'm still running my original catalytic converter. I think 5,000 miles is a good compromise between maintenance cost, and longevity. Another thing...Don't skimp on the AIR filter. As important as it is to keep the oil clean, it's equally important to keep the intake air clean! (whether gasoline or diesel)
Good! See Cats don't just fail, they fail because something ahead of it, (engine) has something wrong. Either bad oil maint, not doing plugs as needed, etc.
@@a3300000 Air filters do not become less efficient when they get dirty. On the contrary, they become more so. The problem with excessively dirty air filters is that they reduce the flow of air into the engine, making the engine less efficient, but that doesn't produce more engine wear directly the way asperities do in dirty oil. The additional wear caused by an excessively dirty air filter is due to the engine "working" harder to produce the same power, which is a more subtle form of wear.
I've been using full synthetic motor oil since 1993. I changed oil every 15,000 miles on my Ranger truck with no issues and sold it with 327,000 miles on it still running good original engine. Then I got a Geo Metro 3 cylinder and changed oil every 10,000 miles with full synthetic and sold that car due to rust at 326,000 miles still running good. My current car is a Honda Accord with 274,000 miles running good with 10,000 mile oil changes. Bottom line is use synthetic oil, never run them out of oil, never run them hot and engines will last a long time. Now these modern turbo engines I feel are a different story. They are running these tiny engines really hard and no amount of oil changes is going to save them. I doubt you will see many turbo charged engines going 200,000 miles without significant engine work being done.
The manufacturer's new specifications normally require a visocity that can only be found in synthetic oil options nowadays. I've likewise used only synthetic even in the models from the 90s but now have a newer model that requires 0W20 that's only available in synthetic but generally stuck to the same branding whenever possible. Any comment on the "newer" stuff?
@@KisAFriend Oils and engines have become very complicated in recent years. Mostly due to turbo engines and direct injection used to get the last mpg out of the engine while making engines smaller and lighter. I'm sure the 0W20 is good stuff for its application but I wouldn't use it in anything that it wasn't called out in the owner's manual. One oil that has my interest is the Valvoline "restore and protect" oil. From what I have read real world testing has revealed reduction in piston and ring carbon build up. This would be super and might bring some old engines that burn oil back to life if it can free the rings.
I used to do 10K mile oil changes, but replaced the filter at 5K and topped off the oil. I had a Mazda B2300 (rebadged Ranger) with over 300K miles doing this. Ran fine, did not consume oil.
@@papaske3375 I think my friend also ran the Mazda B____ series pickup. Definitely what the small Civic manufacturers back in the day would make if they also made pickup trucks. I think we over complicate the process also because drivers or users really shouldn’t be following any short of schedule unless they expect to do more or less similar driving routines year in and year out. But really, who stays at any employment role that needs commuting as part of a routine for over 20 years nowadays? Aside from those fancier electronic “oil testers” we have nowadays, I think ultimately the best practices for changing oil still remain with the drivers knowing “it’s about time”…
I live in Jamaica and most of the times we buy used from Japan. We tend to keep our vehicles longer so typically we do our oil changes every 4,000 to 6,000 miles. So I agree with you, car manufacturers want you to buy a new car as often as possible.
Mark Lester, that sounds like the best option, considering the price of new cars. The Japanese cars tend to hold up better, and longer…but, the maintenance must be kept up on a regular basis. I have had Toyotas and Hondas reach over 300K miles with just basic maintenance.
The recommended oil change interval on our 2020 Corolla is 10,000 miles. I've been doing it every 5,000. I've also switched to synthetic for our older 2008 Corolla and our daughters 2007 Corolla and change oil every 5k. Now that I'm retired I need to change the oil on the 2008 annually because it is not driven much. Bottom line oil and oil filters are cheap, engine rebuild not so much. This is one of the few DIY maintenance jobs I'm still able to do other then replacing bulbs.
Watch what The Car Care Nut has to say about the Infamous Toyota oil burning. Change that oil at 5k no matter what and those rings won’t start sticking because they were forced to use too light a tension oil control rings. Once they start sticking you only have a chance to bring it to a halt so always do 5 K no matter what some captured engineer or especially some government says. To the uninitiated reading this all car companies use these barely adequate rings for a long time now so use a good synthetic oil and change it at 5k. Oil is cheat at Wallymart engines aren’t. Speaking of oil do change the Tranny oil at specified times , usually 60k. That goes double for those CVT trannies!!! Those are all but guaranteed to grenade $6,000+ if you keep them long term and don’t change that oil . You better use EXACTLY what the dealer sells💸too these days for tranny oil.
Look very closely at the fine print for that 10k interval, it is full of exceptions which many (most?) will disqualify - short tripping being the most common.
Why? Do you think your corolla engine is going to die, before the rest of the car does? That engine will probably be the last thing to go, even if you did 15K mile changes. Just a waste of money to change synthetic oil sooner than recommended.
@@drizler I believe he states 5k miles or 6 mos, whichever comes first....so in the OP's post I would do the oil change every 6 months even if he doesn't hit the mileage requirement.
The only thing car manufacturers are concerned about is getting the vehicle to last long enough to get out of warranty. If you plan on keeping your vehicle then stick to 3-5k oil change intervals and transmission 30-45k.
Transmissions 30k or 15k if CVT. I would not go higher than that. The CVT manual states 60k. 60k is usually when they die and require a $6k repair , many cases it's even less.
I think not all manufacturers are the same. Ford & GM union run shops, sure, they couldn't care less about long term quality. I believe the Japanese & perhaps Koreans too, are different. They still take pride in the quality of their work & it shows in long-term reliability of their vehicles.
If you follow the 7500-12k mile oil change interval the engines will be out of warranty before you have any major issues and manufacturers are off the hook, they know exactly what they're doing.
@Peter Angles Obviously you have to keep the crankcase full. It’s not an oil related failure if there is none. All engines consume oil and need top off.
My 2008 civic says otherwise at 242,000 miles and counting. I'm a rough driver and used it for amazon delivery and I was extremely hard on it with that. It's holding up with no problems. I've gone as far as 9,000 miles without changing oil.
Also why some dealers will say your transmission fluid never needs to be checked or changed. "It's a sealed unit." Meaning no dipstick. But it should be changed, thankfully I figured this out before I went too far past 70k
@@andrewk8636 yeah it’s really going to come down to each individual persons driving style. That’s why I say 5000 is a safe bet for most people. Some people who are a little more astute and would like to pay attention and remember their driving habits over a period or probably find a stretch it out. i’d like to go between 5000 and 8000 for my interval and I’ve seen the oil look very rough at 5K and I’ve seen it look pretty good at it K doing high miles in a short time span with the engine always coming to operating temperature and staying there is significantly better than the alternative
The oil change interval is, in large part, dependent upon the vehicle driving mode. I take many road trips where my vehicle is in a steady, highway speed state. The strain upon the vehicle is about the lowest it can experience, therefore, the oil change interval will not be the same as another identical vehicle that rarely leaves the region and is subjected to a lot of stop-and-go driving, especially in colder months and winter.
That's why 5k on full synthetic is recommended. Most people are driving in the city and on commute in stop and go traffic. When the manual states 10k/1 year, that's under normal highway conditions. Cut that in half for severe service. and even less if you're idling a lot.
Gr8 advice.Owning a vehicle is like owning a home.They both require routine maintenance & inspections. If you're one of those ppl who neglect or ignore that responsibility then you will also be one of those that learn things through the difficult and expensive method.I do my oil changes,every 6 months or 3,000 miles.Transmission every 3yrs or 50,000 miles. Differential fluid every 50,000 miles, transfer case the same,brake fluid every 5yrs or 50,000 miles,Coolant every 5yrs.Belts and hoses every 7 yrs.Maintainence is absolutely key to vehicle longevity. And as expensive as they are its foolish not to take care of them.Like the old saying goes,,,,,,you can pay a little now or alot later.Either way you're gonna pay.Thanks for the video.
Except vehicles don’t inflate in value as they’re used like a house. The supply of new cars over exceeds demand so used cars go down quickly in price..while aupply for new houses can never meet demand.
5 years on brake fluid? That’s a bit too long in my book. I do 2-3 years as the brake fluid is hydroscopic, i.e. absorbs moisture, so best to replace it frequently no matter the mileage so the brake system components resist corrosion better.
Totally agree. 348.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am . Bought new. 3000 mile oil changes. Castrol GTX 10 30. Engine has never been touched. Runs and sounds like new. I always change oil this way, and in 45 years of driving, and putting well over 200.000 miles on many cars, v8s v6s, and 4 cylinders, I have never had any engine issues. Transmissions, yes. Engines, never.
Thank You for your honesty. Walking away without some sort of confusion and having solid information is so rare and priceless these days. I buy my vehicles for their lifetime and success with this long haul approach requires attention to the drive train. I really love the 100000 mile investment sequence you explained so well Thank You Sir......
something i learned from driving a semi truck for 25 years ,, install a bypass filtration system that more heavily filters the oil ,, standard full low filters only catch 20-30 micron particles ,, a bypass filter catches finer particles down to 1.5-2 microns ,,oil stays cleaner longer and lasts longer and your engine will last a lot longer ,,i installed a bypass filter in my 1987 chevy S10 back in 2003 ,, when it had 260,000 miles ,, it's now approaching 700,000 miles ,,,and my semi truck a 1993 freightliner FLD which i bought used in 1997 when i was 23 is approaching 2 million miles and the engine still hasn't been fully rebuilt yet ,,i did rebuild the head 2 years ago and the engine got new bearings in 2008 but , courtesy of a bypass filtration system the engine has lasted a very long time coupled with regular oil sampling and changes ,oil change interval on my pickup is about 10000 miles and i do not use synthetic oil because the engine was not designed for that light of oil , the 60 series detroit in my FLD gets new oil about 25-30K miles which currently means about every 6-8 months , i don't drive over the road anymore
I am a retired mechanic now doing airport transportation. Despite Hyundai‘s problems with their 2.0L turbo and 2.4L engines my 2013 Sonata has 212,000 miles on the ORIGINAL engine and transmission. Valvoline modern engine full synthetic 5W30 every 3,000 miles. Transmission fluid changes every 15,000 miles. I do most of my own service. It’s just starting to consume a small amount of oil (about 1/2 qt every 1,000 miles). Other than that it still runs and drives great! According to the owners manual in a warm region like Florida 10W30 can be used so I’ll be switching over to 10W30 high mileage in an attempt to slow down the oil burning. That 2013 Sonata is now my back up vehicle. I’ve recently purchased a 2020 Mitsubishi Outlander and it will receive the same care only this time by the dealer. I’m getting too old to crawl around under vehicles. On a sidenote the vehicle I traded in was a 1999 Hyundai Accent I purchased new! It’s still ran and drove great when I turned it in! Not bad for a so-called “throwaway car!“
Nice work sir! I too just bought a new 2020 Outlander. Just did a break in oil change at 1,000 miles, cut open the filter to inspect and installed a magnetic oil drain plug. Here’s my video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cw78lH_1EpQ.html
I own a 2014 Santa Fe with a 2.4 the dealer just replaced the complete engine free of charge. I agree with proper oil changes. If I were you I would have bought another Hyundai. My son owned two Outlanders they were totally junk and nothing but trouble.
That’s awesome, have you checked the pcv ? Could possibly be cause to the 1/2 quart most likely not but hey worth a check. Wow great job hoping to get 200,000+ out of our 2020 Tucson 2.0l. Change oil myself every 4K and run a oil catch can 41,000 miles drives absolutely fine. Besides the annoying pinging that happens every now and then for sure in summer Florida unless I run 89 octane goes away but not worth it really to my pockets, nature of the beast runs great though.
Why in the world would you switch from a 5w-30 to a 10w-30? At full operating temp both of those oils are almost dead nutz on for viscosity that meets a “30wt”. By going with a 10w vs a 5w you are just prolonging oil flow to critical parts so thus accomplishing nothing. I use Mobil 1 0w-40 (it’s a light 40wt that fulfills all requirements of 5w-30) in high mileage Toyota/Lexus/Hyundai/Chevy, and it works beautifully. The side benefit is this oil has been proven to clean dirty engines and especially ring packs, but slowly and gently. It’s also a proven road racing oil and is used in countless German high performance cars. Also “all oils” have seal swelling agents. High mileage oils just contain more, along with more ZDDP, and a slightly stronger detergent additive. You can also add your own to any regular oil (LubeGard Leak Fixx or similar). Won’t hurt the engine one bit.
@@nordicpride9708 I use the Mobile 1 0w40 European blend full synthetic, it has a better additive package than most other oils. A guy that goes by Rat540 performed extensive testing on oils and it tested at the top. I have two 2015 Camaros, both 6.2L and one supercharged, my wife drives a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0 turbocharged, I change her oil at 5,000 intervals and my Camaros once a year which is generally around 3K to 3,500 per year. I have two motorcycles is why the mileage is so low on my cars. The best part is that I get the Mobile 1 from Walmart for $4.92 a quart in the 12 quart box. I would use it in my 1978 Chevy truck but I built the 557 ci big block a little on the loose side on the bearing clearance so I use Mobile 1 15w50 in it and the 565 ci motor in my dragster. I’m 73 and have never ever had anyone other than myself change my oil, especially dealerships, even in the numerous new cars I have bought over the years with “free oil changes” and it has served me well.
True, but these longer intervals are likely not to effect engine longevity until beyond the warranty period. The "lifetime" transmission fluid is a good example. No tranny fluid change until 100K on those trannys, the damage is done and you are now out of warranty.
@@gpaje Not really, for example in the Prius transaxle, which is just a set of planetary gear sets with 2 electric motors, the fluid in there is just to lubricate these gears, the electric motors and cool them down, and there are Priuses with over 200,000 and even 300,000 miles with still the original transaxle fluid and no issues.
@@hedgehogthesonic3181 Not really? I think that applies to the majority of the cars out there, you mentioned the Prius, how many other cars fall into that category versus traditional transmissions?
I changed the oil in my 2001 dodge Durango 4.7 once a year with synthetic. 14 years and 260000 miles later it was still running great. Never had to touch the engine.
I still follow the old 3K/3-month interval. Overkill? Perhaps, but it's my vehicle and I don't mind spending the money for fresh oil/filter that often.
Sounds like good advice. More often has to be better. Changing the filters more often is definetly good! Buy some high quality full synthetic oil when its onsale and good quality filters and do it your self. Most people could do it them selves.
Before becoming a shop teacher, I spent 7 years as a diesel boat mechanic. That whole time, we never had an engine with problems because the oil was too clean, and changed too frequently. All my 5th gen Ram 1500 ever sees is Mobil 1, and a new NAPA (WIX) Platinum filter every 6,000 miles.
boats don't have oil drain plugs. Service places strip bolts, damage filter housings, smear oil all over your battery.. spill oil ..happens a lot the more service the more likely it'll happen to you.. Those poor kids ! you're putting them on the wrong path with that type of talk !
I just bought one of the last Ecodiesels (2023 Ram) and I am preparing to do it's first oil change today with Mopar oil filter and Pennzoil 5w-40 Euro-Spec. I plan on doing it again at 3k, 5k and every 5k afterwards. My friend who used to restore cars says this is extreme but neither he (nor I) have ever owned a diesel. In your opinion, is this too much? Thanks!
@gardnerberry113 I wouldn't think so, however be sure that the eurospec oil is up to API standards that MOPAR wants. There are differences, while I'm not sure about the 15-40, I have been toldd that the euro spec 0-40 specified in the 2500 6.4 Hemi is not the same as the API certified oil. At the very least, it'll cover bases for warranty purposes.
Curious that the vehicle manufacturers increasing oil service intervals is “a conspiracy”, but a car service center recommending more frequent oil changes is a service to the customer. That said, if your mechanic is honest, it’s not necessarily a bad thing for him to see your car more frequently - particularly on higher mileage vehicles, so that they can monitor things that might become a problem before it actually becomes a problem.
LoL what? Unless your friends or related to the mechanic they aren't monitoring anything. Most are only fixing problems. I know I can see as many as 30+ cars a week, can't remember every single issue on every car.
I mean “monitor” in the sense of you note a condition on the mpi that doesn’t need to be addressed this service visit but the customer will be aware to expect this repair in the future. Customer can ask for an update at the next visit or return specifically for that repair when it’s convenient for them - or wait until they need to be towed in! 😂
@@ghostwrench2292 Exactly correct. Say power steering hose is leaking. Will have to be replaced before next safety inspection. The shop is letting the customer know so they can budget for future repairs.
@@fredted1611 that’s what recommendations are for… I see the same cars all the time and monitor things that are on the recommendations and we even have tec notes in our service writer system that us, the actual tecs only see and use
But, no one ever damaged an engine by changing the oil too soon as long as the correct products were used and the filter and drain plug were installed correctly. You also have to pour the oil in right place. Don't forget that part.
I like the interview with the gtr engine builder in Japan. He was OK with using cheap oil even but he wanted you to change your oil every 3000 to make sure it stays clean
I remember back in the '60's when a car got to 50,000 - 60,000 miles, many people were looking to either have an overhaul or trade it in for a new car. How things have changed!
Back then lot of cheap parts put in engines didn't last. Japanese engines even in the 80's like the Toyota 22RE would go 300k miles. They used steel cranks, and roller cams not cheap junk like the big 3 did. Japanese like Toyota and Honda forced the big 3 to improve their engines.
@@Mike-01234the big 3 have engines from the 60's that have made it into the next century. Engine oil quality and timing chains were the weak point with those engines. But even my fathers car made it to 220,000 on the original plastic timing gears. Rest of the motor was fine.
@@VitoVecciaI remember cars burning oil either rings, or valve seals start leaking. Depends on what kind of driving also highway driving will go further.
@@Mike-01234 this is very true. Operating conditions play a huge impact. My father had to rebuild the engine in his f600 every 30k miles. It was a 330HD, but he refused to split the gears with the 2 speed rear. Everything else he owned was fine.I remember my dad always swore by 2,000 mile oil changes, and 10w40 oil. Before he started his construction company, he worked as a mechanic. It took over 40 years to prove everyone wrong, be he was right about the owners manual: you can't always trust it.
@@Mike-0123480s/90s Japanese engines definitely were pretty indestructible. My old 91 Accord had 430,000 miles on the original engine and trans when I sold it. Still shifted like butter in every gear and had plenty of pickup.
Jeff, THIS IS A GREAT video!!!!!! Another point to make about the Synthetic Oil change intervals that I always said was Oil serves (2) purposes, 1 in lubricates the engine, The 2nd purpose that often gets overlooked is it traps dirt and contaminants in the oil, So it MAY be true that the oil will withstand the time frame But do you really want DIRTY OIL running through your engine?? I don’t!!!! Oil is cheap, And engine rebuild or replacement IS NOT!!!! Another quick fact is when YOUR certified technicians DO an oil change they get the chance to SEE and INSPECT various other components that are possible leaking or ready to fail….. Keep up the GREAT work and keep on posting these kinds of videos….👍👍👏👏👏
I drive a 1.8l Japanese engine with 400,000km approaching and I always use synthetic oil pushing 12-14000 km with OEM filters(they're cheap filters and are rated at 16,000km). The engine is strong as ever and I think I can push these oils more but due to high mileage I rather not risk it. I would say its besides mileage, its important to use your professional judgement when checking the usability of the oil.
@@mdev8846 The oil change interval is more important that the brand and model. You can use the cheapest oil as long as the back says it meets the oil standards it will be good. If you plan on keeping your car as long as possible(which is the smart thing to do), I would change it every 3,000 miles with the cheapest oil you can find, and the filter every 6,000(to save money) or also do it every 3,000 miles to do it all in the same job.
My Audi A6 has 263,000 miles. Always changed with synthetic oil every 8-10,000 miles. My Audi A4 had 275,000 miles when my brother bought it for his kids. This was modified and I ran 23lbs of boost. Changed oil every 5K. My Audi TDI has 130,000 miles. All the engines in these cars ran great and did not burn oil. However, my reasoning for different interval times for oil changes depends on how one drives their vehicle. A lot of miles were on the hwy. I can get longer intervals then, (8-10,000 miles). My boosted A4, (which stock made 170 HP to 300 HP) was every 5K based on how I drove that car, (hard). My diesel, when I am driving shorter trips I change at 7500 miles. When I'm on the hwy a lot it's 10K. So, while I agree with what is being said, take into consideration on how one drives their vehicle. You may need to change every 4K if high load, heat and dirty conditions.
LMAO 🤣 I SERIOUSLY! doubt you have 2 Audi’s with almost 300k on them lol 😂 maybe if both are on their 3rd transmissions etc Audi’s are the biggest German all wheel drive piece of shit out there. And that’s saying something
@@Ryan-vj9bl I tell you what. Let's put your doubt with some money. I'll prove with pictures, mileage and service reports that what I wrote and have. All with original engines, trannys, etc. So start at $1,000 so you are so sure. Also, how many Audis have you owned to make you claim below?
It was 3,000 when I first started driving. I do 5k intervals now. Mobile 1 and OEM filters have worked well for me. Back in the day we used 10w30, then 5w30, now they want me to use 0w20 under the guise that tolerances are too tight for the thicker oil. They run the thinner oil to achieve .3 more mpg rating. The turbos and all that are just to chase fuel economy.
I use 5w30 now on my old 2 valve 5.4 which was originally recommended. Then they changed to recommending 5w20 for the same engine. Cafe standards. However newer cars and engines are definitely more complex and so have tigger clearances etc.
I started to do used oil analysis due to owning an airplane, where engine overhauls can reach $60k. My UOA results for passenger cars and light trucks prove that the oil monitor or owners manual recommendations are actually very conservative, even using so called "conventional" oil, which today is really a synthetic blend. This dates back to a 1992 BMW up to my newest, 2010 Honda. We got 300,000 miles on the 1999 Camry without any internal engine or transmission repairs.
Not during the warranty for sure and would only do so if running a fleet under controlled conditions. I use oil analysis to validate that the manufacturer's interval is ok. Never found it lacking. So much for the "every three months or 3000 miles" crowd.
The 5k interval saves engine gaskets too. You are removing acids from combustion and moisture from heating and cooling cycles. You want maximum oil in your oil.
very well put. I am a tech with over 40 years experience and couldn't agree with you more. while I will soon retire I try to educate as many people as possible about this topic. Its difficult with todays kids taking anything they read from the manufactures as gospel.
So you have seen cars engines go, because they changed the oil at the recommended intervals, instead of 3k miles lol?? Never happen. Unless you are very negligent, your engine will most likely last longer than you want to keep driving the car. Transmissions, body rot/damage, exhaust etc, will all go before.
@@micker9830 Yes, all the time. Lots of timing chain and turbo issues with long oil change intervals. Lots more intake valve carbon deposits. Breather problems. Camshaft problems. Oil pump inlet issues. Lots of issues.
This was a well done video for a shop to make. I’m Canadian and I change my oil around 5,000km but will go up to 7,000km if my driving was pure economy and not over heating the oil. If I’m having fun and driving hard the most is 5,000km or sooner, I also run slightly thicker oil in the summer and when I know I’m gonna be in higher rpm range for long periods of time.
I'm old school, my Father ran his own garage for many years, and back then, it was 3000 miles on an oil change. I know all about how oil has improved over the years and how you can go longer, and I do use full Synthetic in my vehicles, but I still stay between 3 to 4k miles. It's simple, pull your dipstick at 3k and look at the oil, if it's getting dirty looking, it's time to go. Why run oil that looks like it's full of crud? It's really cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. Some people will say I'm throwing my money away, but have you priced out an engine rebuild? I can change my oil myself and save money there or even take to the shop and have it done for far less than I can replace the engine. I've been known to own a vehicle for 20 years or until the body rots off them, and you can't do that on dirty oil.
Pretty dirty is good! It’s doing it’s job. Unless it’s burnt or has radiator fluid in it. Oil analysis is what I recommend. Get it down to specifics in my opinion
The color of oil means Nothing, it's the texture, thinning that is a concern. Look at diesels. Change the oil, run for 5 min and the oil is jet black. Color means absolutely nothing
@@bluesky-ud9wg I got news for you, diesel oil is already black when it goes in. Regular engine oil is honey color, it gets black after about 3k miles. Hmmm, just about the time it needs changing.
Dorthauler!! Can you please let me know that I am using KIXC 20W-50 semi-synthetic heavy diesel engine oil in my suzuki celerio gasoline 2007 after engine re-build. There is no oil leakage/issue. Normally oil changing frequency is 3000-3500 km. Should I switch to Liquimoly on which grade??
I have a 2013 Toyota Highlander full synthetic oil, 10K mileage interval, never missed a change, 237K miles on it. Now I just bought a 2023 Kia Sportage, manual reads 8K mileage interval, called early to schedule an appointment, receptionist said because of area & extreme conditions, 3700 miles is recommended. 👀. Called different dealerships to confirm, got different answers from follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to change at 5K miles. I drive highway miles daily to work approximately 90 miles in total, already at 2850 miles in 35 days, based on the reviews & videos I’ve seen including yours, which I’m inclined to agree with, I’m changing my oil at 5K miles and I’m sticking with it, & it’ll be done at the dealership, because I’m gonna get my 100K mileage warranty out of my Kia. I’ll hit that benchmark in about 4 years or so. Great story, I concur 👍🏾. Thanks 😊
On my 2013 Toyota Corolla, I let the dealer do oil changes during the warranty period. The free maintenance Toyota provides, where you return every 5000 miles, only has them replacing the oil every 10,000 miles. So in reality you only get two free oil changes. After the warranty I started changing my own oil every 5000 miles. I now have 300k+ miles on this car. The only engine issue was a head gasket leak, that was not oil related.
You’re absolutely correct! Toyota, of all manufacturers, (maybe this is just the American dealers?) says there “sealed transmission “ fluid never needs changing. 😳 It’s a machine!!! It requires fluid! Clean fluid!
Most of the problems come from the long oil change intervals and the oil not being topped off. What is better a 3k miles interval and never having to check the oil level, or a 7.5k mile oil change with 2 qts. Added? 90% of people never check the oil level. All these new cars using 0w20 or now 0w16 oil are burning a large amount of oil and require oil to be added. Add direct injection and a turbo and you get the new honda's and ford turbo's. I have changed the oil on a 1.5l honda accord turbo. 4 k miles 1st oil change the blackest most watered down oil I have seen. These manufacturers have thrown caution to the wind. Soon to be gone are the day's of a bullet proof engine because of manufacturers lying about maintenance requirements.
BEST COMMENT on this subject, FILL UP and CHECK YOUR OIL EVERY TIME. These synthetics are thinner and you will "burn" it. I agree instead of 7.5K just do it at 5K it will pay for itself over the years.
I thought about that also and opted for a last gen 2017 Camry. I found one with very low miles like new, No DI or turbos, common oil type. People tend to buy what they think is high tech and cool looking without any thought of maintenance. A lot of those Honda engines were getting oil dilution issues also. Now you have hammered oil that also gets thinned out with gas from blow by due to the DI Turbo not warming up, not to mention carbon build up issues with the lack of port injection to clean the air intake valves. No thanks!
Good information, as example the amount of timing chain issues these days across all manufacturers can be directly attributed to these long oil change intervals being pushed
Especially for Direct injected engines that spray fuel at a high pressure directly into the cylinder which forces fuel past the rings into the oil pan accelerating oil degradation. They have developed a new oil standard "ILSAC GF-6A" that is made to resist fuel due to DI now becoming common and a lot of premature engine failure due to it. I followed the recommended oil change interval in my DI car at at 80,000 miles it started burning too much oil and running bad. Now I have to rebuild the engine and I will never follow the extended drain interval ever again and will make sure to only use ILSAC GF-6A oil that was never available in the years I drove that car.
Thanks Jeff I have owned Gm trucks for many years I am old fashioned in my 40 s lol I still only go 3000 miles and change my oil full synthetic. I have a 2021 2500 6.6 gas engine and a lot of people say there’s are using a little oil mine is perfect still at 3 thousand miles so people it cost you a little more changing oil but trucks are not cheap so take very good care of them
People also negate the fact that modern GDI turbo engines have a lot of "fuel dilution" if the car makes mostly short trips. Check your oil at around 3000k on a GDI car. The oil will likely smell like gasoline. That's the excess cold start fuel being blown by the piston rings and saturating your oil. I've had this happen in my 2016 Buick Regal Turbo and 2016 F150 with the 2.7 turbo. Both engines run great but I change the oil when the oil life monitor reaches 50%. Usually about 4,000 miles.
Wow, my 2001 car has only 113k miles... put ONLY 3k last year ... COVID and stuff. I change as the book at every 10k. Engine is running Great. Semisynthetic.
My mechanic friend emphasised that good, clean, fresh oil is imperative. So I have always changed my oil inbetween the recommended mileage/kms or every 6 months even when under new car warranty. I have NEVER had an engine problem with any car I have owned (propably in excess of 20 cars both modern and classics). For the sake of $50ish it is the cheapest insurance in the world.
The mentality of most people nowadays is to only keep the vehicle a certain amount of years because they feel they have to constantly drive the newest thing out there. Very few people buy a vehicle and pay it off. It's usually traded in before then so the manufacturer doesn't care cause that vehicle is gonna make it through warranty period and once it switches hands who cares.
I saw a article on a Mobile I Synthetic Oil change at 100,000 miles, the filter( 2 microns) was changed on a regular schedule, any oil loss was added at the time of the filter replacement. The engine was disassembled and found to be very clean with no buildup of sludge; moreover, the machined surfaces had a protective patina from the synthetic oil and the engine was within specifications.
Absolutely! @michaelriera6277 6 hours ago I have a 2015 Lexus GS350 with 180k miles. Change the oil/filter with synthetic every 10k miles and sometimes add 1 quart of oil between oil change. Have a 2012 Audi Q5 with 170k miles, change oil every 10k miles add a quart every 1k miles always had to since the car had 50k miles. Just follow the owners manual and stop being so paranoid. Contrary to what the conspiracy theorists say, car manufacturers do not want engine failure and want their cars to perform well for extended time as this positively affects resale value and ownership experience. There have been huge improvements in the quality of oils and how engines interact with lubricants.
My father's business partner purchased a new 1972 Ford pickup and drove it for 174,000 miles, never changing the oil or filter once. All he did was add oil and keep it at proper capacity. He always drove it like he stole it. I certainly don't follow this practice but I have always changed the oil and filter in my vehicles at 20K. Most were Hondas that went close to or over 200K and my present car is a Lexus RX350 at 190K miles and going strong.
@@reneclaasen6706 Technically oil doesn't "break down", it becomes polluted over time with foreign material, rendering it less effective in lubrication. Recycled oil is simply filtered of those pollutants. I don't mind that folks change their oil every 2K miles - that practice is very good for my oil investments.
I've been a professional mechanic for 37 years. I have seen too many engines to count, fail from improper maintenance, mostly lack of oil changes, in those almost 4 decades. And I mean failures directly linked to the lack of proper maintenance. I have never seen changing the oil too often cause a failure. As cheap as an oil change is and as expensive as a major repair is it makes sense to change the oil at the proper time. Most fleet departments have a 5000mile/6 month interval and if the vehicle has an hour meter then it overrides everything else as it is the true measure of oil life. And you will find those stories of the guy who never changed his oil and got 300k miles out of his old truck or the guy who changed his oil every 10k miles and got 278k miles. And this happens but it is rare. I personally change my oil at 5000 miles and for someone like my 92 year old mother who only drives 1000 miles a year I change it every spring. But today so many people simply trade their cars off at 70k miles so for them it really isn't as important.
My rancher neighbour has a $125,000 John Deere farm tractor, and he was told he never has to change the oil because it's synthetic! I told him that was crazy advice and that all oils become contaminated, synthetic or not. He now changes his oil. I never run a synthetic oil longer than a conventional oil and only reason I buy synthetics is to get the extreme cold temperature performance I need. It can drop to minus 40C here so I run Shell Rotella 0W40 in everything.
Two cars over 200,000 miles doing oil changes every 3000 miles using conventional oil. One car never burned a drop. My current car has 145,000 miles using conventional oil and it doesn't burn a drop between changes. Over the years I've used all the oils. The main oils were Quaker State and Pennzoil 10w-30s. Today I'm using Valvoline 5w-20. They are all good oils if your change intervals are 3000 miles. Now I've never had a HP engine or turbo and from what I understand such engines require synthetics so I wouldn't recommend conventional oils in those engines but I'd still recommend 3000 mile intervals. The reason being is because oil becomes diluted over time by raw fuel blowing past the piston rings and entering the crank case. And then there are the other contaminants that cause your oil to turn black. The longer one waits to change their oil......................... I've even heard people say that their cars don't start burning oil until they reach a certain amount of mileage like 4000 miles or 5000 miles. This makes perfect sense! The oil has thinned do to fuel dilution. If your car is doing this consider changing your oil every 3000 miles. And always change your oil filter when you change your oil. It doesn't cost that much more. Same goes for your synthetics oils. They don't cost that much more then conventional oil anymore, so why not?
Back in the late '90s, I watched an episode of 60 Minutes, or another similarly themed program. It might have been 48 Hours. I don't recall for sure which it was. Well, this particular story raised this very question. With that, Consumer Reports magazine was hired to do an experiment testing what the oil change might be, based on their own testing. The whole idea was to challenge the then recommended 3000 mile service interval that fast-lubes nearly all insisted on. They purchased ten brand new taxi cabs (I do not recall the make or model of the car), and in cooperation with a NY city cab company, went on a strict service schedule with each of these ten cars. The oil was changed every 6000 miles for 60,000 miles. Each car was serviced with a different brand of oil--from budget to the priciest synthetic. The common denominator was that all ten oils were API certified. After driving the 60,000 miles. each of the engines was disassembled and examined for wear. NONE of the ten engines showed "significant wear". Their conclusion was that the recommended oil change of 3000 miles at fast lube chains was unnecessary, and to use the recommended service schedule printed in your car owner's manual. If people want to waste money on too frequent oil changes, it's their prerogative. But think about what this fellow's angle is. By what he is saying, he's alleging that the car manufacturer doesn't want their engines to last, so they can sooner rather than later sell you a new car. Hmm. And who do you think is benefiting from the advice that this mechanic is offering? Don't you think that car owners will take note of cars that have short lived engines? Recall that Consumer Reports and other entities rate cars based on reliability, among other factors. There are such reports for virtually every car made going back, probably, fifty years. Wouldn't the manufacturers want people to know that their cars are dependable, and won't need a premature engine change--or that they will have to junk their car before they even make 100,000 miles? Think about how much more dependable and long lasting most modern cars are compared to those from the 1970s or earlier. I'm old enough to recall those cars. You were lucky to see 100K miles with any of them. I cannot say with certainty that this fellow is right or wrong. But he has a vested interest in giving the advice that he's giving. And by the way, I have noticed in recent years that the fast-lube places no longer push the 3000 mile interval, because consumers got wise to them based on investigative stories like the one I mention, and probably via other sources such as magazine articles and the like. For the past couple decades, or more, I have had my oil changed every 5000 miles. That is more often than recommended, so I too, may be throwing money away. But in a nod to this mechanic's advice, I am erring on the side of prevention rather than early car retirement. What is the best interval? Hell if I know. I'm not an automotive engineer.
Sounds like you're trying to cite the famous CR study of 75 NYC taxis for 2 yrs and 4.5 million miles. It was an oil comparison study with changes at 7500 mi. and showed that even synthetic oil was not superior to even the cheapest appropriate API certified oil. Common oil additives were just the usual snake oil. The results should not have been a surprise to anyone but, for a lot of people, motor oil is more of a religion than science. Maybe we should call it The Church of Engines are Expensive and Oil is Cheap.
@@wholeNwon That must be the same study. I didn't realize that it was 75 cabs! That's a thorough test! Anyway, I have watched Jiffy Lube clerks up-sell unsuspecting customers more expensive "high mileage", semi-synthetic or full sythetic oil. I sat there in the waiting room watching this play out, while only moments earlier I had told the clerk that I only want the basic oil--NOT the more pricey semi or full synthetic (the car I owned at the time was coming up on 100K miles). It pissed me off as these people were being bamboozled, but in the marketplace, pulling the wool over customer's eyes comes with the territory. It's the price we pay for a moderately regulated system of commerce. That, and the fact that we Homo sapiens cannot help ourselves in the deeply seated impulse to enrich ourselves at other's expense. That trait will never go away! So, that requires systems of commerce and trade to have regulations enacted by governments . I always scoff and chuckle at the opinions of those who think that the invisible hand of the '"free market" is a self correcting force that keeps everybody honest and doing the right thing. "We need less regulation and less government" they cry! Sometimes that is true. Sometimes it is not. I now have two vehicles with each just over the 100K mile mark. I get my oil changed every 5000 miles with regular oil and will continue doing that until I sell them.
I've talked about this before. I had a Mustang GT that I absolutely romped on all the time... but I changed oil (myself) every 1000-1500 miles. At 60k miles I pulled the engine to swap it for a stroker. The 60k engine looked brand new inside. Nowadays I'm usually a 3000 mile oil change interval person and I'm happy with it.
Good video. I have had my own shop for 30 years. Another fact worth noting I can’t tell you how many cars come in with extremely low and dirty oil, even though the dash still says it has thousands to go. Many cars come in with engine lights on because the variable valve timing system is so built up with debris and sludge can’t operate. Parts of the engine are starved of oil
I worked with Japanese automakers...in the 90s is when they started testing extended intervals. The extended intervals were driven by environmental regulations pushed by govt and environmental groups and also by customers who didn't want to get maintenance so frequently. Better manufacturing and better oils made it possible to extend the interval. As you know, the Japanese makers are all about reliability and durability FIRST so they tested and tested and tested. Result was that the short interval of 3k to 5k miles did have less wear than the extended 6k to 7.5k interval...but the wear at the extended interval was well within spec. So you don't need to change more often than the recommended interval. You can if you want, all men are free! But no kidding, you're not gaining much. I'm not speaking for the U.S. big three makers...with possible and limited exception of Ford. I'm sure they benefited from the same tech improvements as Japanese and that 3k miles is overkill now...but I just don't buy their products. Worked with them too...their specs are always "good enough"...while Japanese were always, "as great as possible."
You are correct. “Within spec” is a good balance between maximizing the life of the vehicle and preserving our planet. Draining Mobil 1 at 3K or 5K is simply selfish.
That is why I am sold on Japanese cars, specifically Honda's. I grew up driving GM's ( I am 61 years old). Always took care of my cars, regular oil changes, etc etc. EVERY SINGLE GM i owned , at around 80-90-K, something major would ALWAYS go wrong: Head gasket, trans, etc and they all leaked oil too. I switched to Honda's about 25 years ago, have had a few. two over 100K and still running strong when I sold them, have an Accord with 115k on it runs PERFECT. NO issues, no major break downs, no oil burning, and they do not leak a single drop of anything. Why can't GM or Ford do this consistently like the Japanese do?
Almost all engines and transmissions will last through the warranty and especially the first owner which is all they care about. That's their customer. You as the 2nd or 3rd owner of a 100K mile car is not their concern.
It's completely their conc. They want to sell you parts after the warranty. Also there is a brand perception so they can't have a car totally fall apart when it get old. It's a balancing act.
I have a 1999 Hooptie Jeep 300k change oil every 6 months since 2004. I also have 2004 BMW 760LI & a 1991 C4 ZR1 I change oil once a year they are my pleasure Cars. Everything Jeff said is also true, a schedule oil change is "Cheaper" than an engine. Great video.
I drive 80 miles a day 5 days a week that's 9,600 miles every 6 months. I have a 2000 dodge durango that I bought used it now has 296,000 miles on it. I use 5w30 full synthetic changed anywhere between 7,000 and 9,000 miles. ZERO ISSUES
Full synthetic can go 8-10k in most conditions. Not listening to the owners manual is not wise. Oil changes every 3k/3 months is a waste imo. Poor dinosaurs
@@paulwilliams6534 Well alot has happened in 10 months bud. Durango got T boned and totalled. Now I have a 12 focus DI motor, 5w20 full synthetic changed every 3 to 4k. Why? It's a DI motor (direct injection) with a poor PCV system. There as dirty as a diesel engine. What I am trying to say is every engine is different, some will do 7 to 9k. And some just won't, if you want it to last. Research is key.
@@fredted1611Sorry to hear about that man. Im on my 3rd DI car, a 19' GTI. I'm very aware they're dirty engines. Carbon/oil deposits on the valves will require cleaning around 60-80k miles on VAG vehicles or sooner. The PCV system is good and I've sent my oil to get analyzed at 8k and barely shows oil breakdown. Is your oil pretty dirty at 3k? I also higher grade than oem oil.
My car has a variable oil change monitor and is usually kicks at about 6800K on a 10K synthetic oil as I drive hard. I really never considered this an issue and have no oil consumption or leaks on my 250K engine. I have also not had to put a high mileage oil in the vehicle.
You do know all these oil monitors in cars are nothing more than a mileage counter and if they got fancy they programed them to also record the speed and average time the ignition was on. None of them actually analyze the actual oil, you have to send a sample to a lab to do that and if you do guess what? The lab will 99% of the time tell you that your oil was in great shape and could go longer.
I read the manual for my '24 jimny recently. (I'm speaking in metric kms here). 1st service is at 1 year or 15,00kms. But when you dig deeper, there's a 2nd service schedule that they recommended for operating the vehicle under "extreme" conditions. It's basically the same as the standard schedule but TWICE as frequent (so 7,500kms instead of 15,000). Now what constitutes "extreme". Well, it can include: idling for long periods, stop-start driving, extended high-rpm use, frequent trips under 6km etc. So basically everyone living in a congested city, commuting at speed on the freeway or using it as a local runabout would be considered "extreme" without even knowing it. The standard advertised service schedule is not fit for purpose and if you read the documentation it says so, just in an indirect manner that 99% of people will never pick up on.
My new 2022 RAV4 2.5 4cyl. received its first oil change at 1200 miles, second at 4100 miles, and my next one is scheduled for 10,000 miles. From everything I've seen, the best interval for an oil change on my particular vehicle is between 5000 and 7500 miles.
My X5 2004 with the m54 I think mine had the same 15k mile thing, most x5s aren't even on the road and regarded as the most unreliable generation, while mine runs strong, sees occasional hard acceleration, snow donuts and power slides, harsh winters here in the north east, off-roading, been through floods, hauling trailers, 1 hour and 30 commutes daily at one point, it use to get it no further than 6k miles, now I use it once a week and changed at 3,000 miles every 3 months car hasn't given me any issues hope it stays that way. 18 years with it in the family and its still healthy.
Really simple stuff,if you want to know how your oil is doing send it to a lab. $40 or so for a full test,will let you know roughly how long your oil will hold up. Been doing 15k km changes for years, tests fine with a safe tbn and reasonable wear metals. A 15k change with 3x the wear metals of a 5k change is not a bad thing.
@@PatChapp lolol you know changing the oil usually stops those problems before they become expensive too ? Maybe one a year but 5kmi changes aren't exactly breaking the bank
@@stevemasterson7776 so oil changes can tell you about a very slightly leaking headgasket? On one of my titans I had one of the headgaskets leaking coolant into the oil,not enough to go milky or cause any noticeable issues yet. My yearly oil analysis detected it. Saved me from an engine locking up.
@@PatChapp so now it's a yearly thing? Okay that's a bit different than what you described... I said once a year sure but other than that 5kmi oil changes is the best mechanic money can buy
Often ignored but needs to be considered is the severity of service your engine is exposed to. Most of my mileage on both of my vehicles is back and forth to work twice a day 15 minutes each time in urban traffic. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles with inexpensive yet reliable Walmart super tech synthetic. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
I agree with andym1594. I have owned numerous cars during my 40 plus years of driving. I have yet to see one fail due to engine wear. It is always some other unrelated expensive repair. For the past 20 years I have followed the recommended oil changes in the owner's manual. My 2005 Toyota Corolla lasted 205,000 mi without burning a drop of oil. Unfortunately it was totaled in an accident. My 2009 Toyota sienna has 180,000 miles on it and does not burn any oil at all. My 2013 Honda Accord has 170,000 mi on it. It did have an oil consumption issue which I found was related to the PCV valve. Once that was changed, the oil consumption was no longer an issue. I thank the internet for that diagnosis. I will continue to change my oil based on the owner's manual.
There also "safety factor." If the OCI is 7.5k...you're probably still "good" from a fluid perspective if you didn't change it but every 9k, just for example.
Yes but no its not just about having the correct amount but the quality oil as well i dont mean the best oil but from new to used cleaner the oil the better
Hello. What’s your recommendation on the first oil change of a new car when you’re still breaking-in an engine? Change it at 1000 miles or later? Thanks.
@@blondebimbomarkusyour statement would be wrong as too early is never too early enough, as the breaking oil needs to go a certain amount of miles or driving conditions in order to seat the rings and other components inside the engine so changing the oil too soon could risk those critical parts not being properly seated
Except for my first car, a 65 VW, I change oil and filter every 5000 mi, synthetic for the last 8 years. I remember better since tire rotation matches. Before that, it was regular oil and filter every 3000. My dad was a small engine mechanic and constantly reminded me to "Check the oil and keep the valves adjusted. For the VW). I still have the measure tool for the valves.😊
I got ‘20 Tacoma, my manual stated 1st oil service @ 10K unless truck is driven short distances at low ambient temps (which I qualified for) than 5K. I wouldn’t mind having a lab look at the oil @ 10K, visually it looks normal brown burn cycle color.
On my Toyota I usually go between 4500 and 7500 miles depending on how I've driven I've seen the oil totally shot at 4500 mi and still be relatively golden and translucent at 7500 mi, there's a couple of Toyota Master techs on RU-vid who say to change it every 5,000 mi That's pretty much for the lay person If you want to regularly check it and are mindful of how you drive I think you can stretch it out further than 5,000 but they have said that on the 10K intervals they've seen the cars burn oil in higher mileage, and of course this is all hinging on the notion that you plan on keeping this vehicle for an extended period of time and are not just leasing it
I took delivery of my new 2021 Tacoma TRD Pro (in Canada) and the dealer (and maintenance manual) recommended oil change interval is 8000kms (5000 miles). I previously owned a 2008 Tacoma and always changed the synthetic oil every 8000kms. Unusual Canadian and USA “standards” vary to that degree....perhaps an across the board climate consideration🤷♂️
@@gerrytaylor5137 I think You hit on the issue “climate considerations”. I got my truck during winter, the maintenance manual states “if driven for less than 7 miles and short trips in cold ambient temperatures” every 5000 miles (which I qualified for) otherwise every 10000 mi.
This all depends on what you use for oil. I use Shell Rotella T6 which is resilient enough to use in diesel tractor/trailers with very hot turbo charged engines. I change my oil once per year in my F250, my F450 and my Porsche race car. I've never had an oil related failure and one of the trucks is 20 years old. I think you are doing yourself a favor by using the best oil you can buy and changing it less often. If you have any doubts just change the filters every 6 months.
I have been doing servis on trucks sens 30 years back , i have a rule , if you drive youre car 1 hour per day you need to change the oil twise per year and on diesels fuelfilter to . The reson is simpel you change the oil to make the engine last longer and the oil is cheap compered to change the motor . The oils are alot better today cant deny that but the engine leavs dirt in the oil , the longer intervals gives more dirt in the same amont of oil and filtrering as you hade in the cars 15 years ago. To day they make the motors use more less and less fuel and with that comes oilconsumtion with the fact of using pistonrings with less cylinderwall pressure and by that you have eaven more dirt from combustion in to the oil , so to make it simple , go back to basics and change the oil to make youre car last longer . 1hour drive per day 2 oilchanges per year is my personal recomedation to you and use OEM filters and recomended oil , dont go cheap on oil and filters.
I only use synthetic Amsoil on all my vehicles. I change oil every 5k miles in my wife’s sports car and my three trucks. I change oil on my GoldWing every 5k miles and every 3k miles on my Harley. I am anal about maintaining my vehicles. All run like new.
My Grand Marquis has 497,000 miles on the clock and it still purrs like a kitten. I have always changed my oil every 3,000 miles like clockwork. I changed valve cover gaskets recently and you could eat off the inside of the engine. GREAT VIDEO!
I’ve been using Mobile 1 Full Synthetic with 7.5-10k mile intervals on the last 5 vehicles. I sell my cars around 185k, but usually to friends or family. All of the my old vehicles have over $250k miles and still run great! Stop trying to take peoples hard earned money by recommend needless oil changes. Cars now have much larger oil capacity’s then older vehicles as well.
oh my god, just dont start the brand fanboy stuff... Use the oil that meets manufacturer specifications, and thats all, you dont need expensive stuff, and many times brands doesnt even have oil that covers all the actual car specifications. Dont just look at the viscosity, the additives are also very important, and these differs from oil to oil, also there are other specifications like the ACEA C3 or C5 (in Europe) that have to pass to be compatible .
I'm nicer than some people. If your change interval is 7500 miles, you don't need to use an upmarket synthetic oil. Any name brand will do - Castrol, Valvoline, Quaker, Chevron or whatever. If you want to pay for Mobil 1 it's your business though. If you're going to the full 10,000 miles then maybe its time to think upmarket. I'm conservative in my theories. I have a 21 year old import. I use semisynthetic and set the drain interval at 2800 miles. It's too easy to work on to try anything different. My home oil change costs me about $15. A local tire chain will do it for $19.95 with dino oil. When you need synthetic, the shop price starts to jump at lot.
Well shops need to sell too so who do we listen to? Vehicle manufacturers or the mechanic shops telling you to come in sooner? One way to know for sure is have an oil analysis done on your next oil change. They will tell you if the oil still has life or is past due and also let you know what else they find floating in the oil that shouldn't be there.
@@Starman-yt8lj you’re telling me that these shops have absolutely no stake in customers coming in every 5k-8k miles for an oil change? Cmon that’s just naive.
@@Starman-yt8lj oh yeah ? So why is there so much oil change places ? They tell you to come a lot and then over-sale you on brakes and other things... Shops don't make money on expensive repairs because no ones to them, by the time it appends it's either under warranty or not worth it so the car is not getting repaired.
We bought a 2015 Honda CRV and followed the oil change intervals which have been closed to 10k miles. It now has 150k miles and it uses quite a bit of oil. I keep it full but our next CRV will get the oil changed more often.
On modern vehicles I go the 5,000 mile oil change. On older (classic) carbureted vehicles I change the oil when it’s hard to read the word (Add) through the oil on the dipstick. I did that with my 1972 Chevelle 350 V8 after I rebuilt the engine in 1986/87 . It’s still being driven today on my 86/87 rebuild and running great.
So let me get this straight... Manufacturers are telling us to go longer on oil changes so they can sell us more new cars. But the guy selling the oil changes makes a RU-vid video to tell us to do oil changes SOONER! Ain't that the pot calling the kettle black
I'm sorry sir. You followed the manufacturer's recommended Mileage interval on replacing spark plugs. We now need the remove your cylinder head because the spark Plugs broke off in it.
today´s intervalls are defined by the marketing department to be competetiv in the market, especially for leasing customers... they´re not defined by the engine designers
I've always done 5,000 mile synthetic oil changes and the oil comes out looking nice and brownish in color. I honestly think that bumping it up to 4,000 miles would be even better. The lead engineer from the Nissan GTR suggests changing your oil every 2,000 to 3,000 miles if you want your engine to potentially last 500,000. On my last oil change my vehicle had 4,500 miles on the oil and the oil life on the dash still showed 84 percent left LOL.
How often should I change the oil if I use a PAO base engine oil that meets ACEA C3 but the quality of the petrol is not good at all? I've read that the PAO base oil could last longer than a HC base oil but (about 15 000 km) but what do you think? If it is not a full SAPS oil then I should change it also at 4 000 mi.? Thanks a lot!
3k or three months for conventional, 5k or 6 months for Syn-Blend, and 7k or 8-9 months for a Premium Synthetic. Of course depending on how old your engine is and how much oil it burns you will need to make adjustments to those intervals. I work at a major Tire and Auto Shop chain.
@@dougregan4752 well laaaa tee dah i do 5k even though on same model toyota tundra in the usa they go 10k.. the canadian book said 5k for a couple years longer than the usa book... weird!!
@Peter Angles LMAO how you gonna compare brand new oil sealed in a container on a shelf to oil being heated up and cooled down continuously in an engine while collecting condensation and dirt over time? See this is the difference between a pro's and an amateur's understanding of how stuff works.
Then who needs the OLM? If the OLM tells you to change your oil why go by it You could have thousands of miles to go if it doesn’t measure the quality of the oil. I don’t use my monitor I change my oil and filter when I can’t see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. Cost for me to do it myself with full synthetic oil and a quality oil filter about $25.00.
Being a business that wants to maximize profit, the auto manufacturers want two things: to sell you a new car and to not have to pay for repairs that need to be made under warranty. In trying to sell that new car to you, the manufacturer will tout its lower total cost of ownership by telling you that you do not have to spend as much money on scheduled maintenance. This means that they are now telling you that you can stretch out your oil change intervals to 10K, or more, miles. If the average original owner keeps the car for about 8 years, then the manufacturer can tell you that you are going to save on not having to perform 8 oil changes if you have them done at annual intervals, as opposed to semi-annual intervals. If you change the oil at 10K intervals with a good oil and filter then you are probably going to make it through the 36K mile or three year engine warranty period with no problem, hence no liability for warranty repairs to the manufacturer. After the warranty period, the manufacturer couldn't care less about what happens because you are on the hook for the cost of any engine repairs. Meanwhile, your engine is sludging up internally with liquid sandpaper circulating all around the surfaces of your engine's moving parts. There are also chemical contaminants from combustion that your filter can't filter out that will corrode metal surfaces over time and degrade plastic and rubber sealing elements. The owners of this car at the higher mileages where these problems will become evident will not present a problem to the manufacturer in terms of warranty repair liability. The owner of the car needs to have clear expectations on what he wants the car for and what he's willing to do to ensure that it meets those expectations, because the owner's expectations are not the same as the manufacturer's goals.
I 100% agree and people won't listen to me when I talk to them about the same thing that you just said in this video Wish people would close mouth and open ears sometimes and just listen to what's going on in the field These manufacturers are telling people that they can go 10-15 thousand miles between oil changes because they know they're going to sell another vehicle when the motor fails Here's a video that I put out yesterday on the 1.5 EcoBoost because I showed people what inside the motor looks like at 16,000 18,000 40,000 60,000 and all the sludge buildup at 5000 mile oil change intervals When you have these small little turbo engines and you don't understand how they're supposed to be driven they need to be serviced much much sooner Anyway here's a video I just put out on the explanation of the 1.5 L ecoboost engine the Ford Fusion and Ford Escape motor as well as overseas they use it in the Ford Focus ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cdg0czlZJ74.html
