Balancing your wheels this way is difficult due to the resistance from the grease, axle seals, and wear in the bearings. If you place a small vibrating mechanism such as a palm sander on one end of the axle it will give you better results. The vibrating sander will induce vibration into the axle and wheel and give you superior results by breaking the friction. Since the axle on this bike is cross drilled, another method would be to make a suitable spacer from some light tubing if your bike doesn't use a wheel spacer and put a nut on the end of the axle to retain the wheel. If you get lucky, you may find a piece of rubber hose with a hose clamp that will fit. The whole idea is to retain the wheel on the axle so you can hang the wheel up by the axle. Run a piece of paracord or stout string through the cross drill and suspend the wheel so it hangs horizontal (axle perpendicular to the ground). Place a bullet level on the brake disc to indicate the low and high sides. Place wheel weights on the high side of the rim until the wheel levels out. You now have the location and the correct amount of weight for a static balance. Today many of us use glass bead placed on the inside of the tire through the valve stem for a continual dynamic balance system. It works very well but the kits can be a bit expensive. If you have purchased a kit with the installation tool in the past, one way to cut the cost of this method is to go to a local tire shop or car dealer and buy glass bead in bulk like they do and then use the installation tool you already paid for. It's about 1/4 of the cost of the kits at the bike dealer. Another cheap way to dynamically balance with beads is to use airsoft pellets. They come in boxes of 1000 pellets for a few dollars. Simply measure out 2 - 3 ounces on a small scale and pour them into the tire prior to installing the second bead. Install the second bead and inflate the tire. Some people do not like this method as they can hear the pellets in the tire but the noise goes away at about 10 miles an hours. The airsoft beads will wear out right around the time for a new tire is needed. I myself prefer the bead methods because they are a dynamic balance and will self adjust to compensate as the tire wears. Wheel weights cannot do this and are only good for a static balance. Ultimately the best method I have seen and used was centrifugal balancers such as those seen here : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ullnFQD4F1I.html They are pricey but they do work very well and they last for years. They install between your disc brake and the wheel and are left on permanently. I had them on an 1800 Goldwing and never had a single wheel vibration after installation. If you plan on keeping the bike for a long period of time, they will actually pay for themselves over the long haul with reduced tire, bearing, and suspension wear.
Hey Norman thanks for that write-up, that's a ton of good information! I had been working on a method in my head to do what you described with the paracord but hadn't got it ironed out yet. Thanks for completing that thought! also the bead thing is as of right now an entirely new concept to me, I'll be sure to look into that as I'm sneaking up on time for a new front tire again already. Thanks again! ~Z
When trying to set the bead, wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and crank it snug. Then fill with minimal air until the bead pops into place. Let a touch of air back out and release the strap. Then air up the rest of the way.
You can also use a jack under the tire and a racketing strap around the tire and under the jack. Tighten the strap then jack up the jack until she pops. Quick and easy!
suuuuub scriiiii bing! Life hacks! I love how simple so much of life really is :) Here in NZ the charge to fit a tyre is low (like NZ$25) BUT … to get there and back is an hour of my time. I'd rather spend that hour doing the job myself, save the 25 bucks, teach my son a handy skill, some mechanical maths (moments / pivots / fulcrums), not to be scared to give things a go AND I get to have some good bonding time with him too :) Thanks for posting this - much appreciated :)
I balance with the tire on the rim without seating the bead and mark the tire and rim... line up the marks when you seat the bead and half the time I dont even have to add weights...and if I do it only needs 1/4 ounce.
The reason for the zipties helping to remove and reinstall the tire, is that with the 2 beads of the tire so close together, it allows them to sit in the "valley" inside the rim to allow more clearance to get the opposite side over the edge of the rim. When the tire beads aren't compressed, they sit on the bigger diameter part of the rim and why you would need proper tools to remove.
I didn't hear you talk about the small dot that is put on motorycle tires at the factory. That dot is so yu line it up with the air fill steam because that is the spot on the tire that is the lightest. Great video keep up the good work.
Not. all tire manufactures use them anymore because most people speed balance not static like he was doing. But yes look for the dot mount tire with the dot directly opposite of the valve stem
Fantastic video brother. I'm getting ready to tackle this job as all the bike shops in Maine are backed up over two weeks right now and I'm not wasting two weeks of New England Fall riding time. Anywho, thanks for the insight and keep the rubber side down.
The heavy side will always go down , no need to spin it , Mark a 12 O'clock and let the tire go if it did not turn , move the mark to 3 O'clock or 9 O'clock let it go heavy side will find its way down . I been changing tires by hand from 1972 , Im 57 years old I just got a Ebay tire changer with bead breaker 106 bucks and have used it took me 4 minutes not 2 hours . Im going to make a No Mar bar , the no mar poly tips are not going to scuff the chrome wheels on my brothers bike . set of 3 no mar tips 30 bucks or 10$ each and a 4 foot pipe .
easy bead braking on street tires: stick the tire in a bench vise, I've done a gazillion of them that way with tires up to 180's, works great especially on the thick ass tubeless tires. static balancing when you can't get to centerline because of rim spar: clamp on weights are the best but if you have to use stick on weights start with 2 weights temporarily stuck on with a small piece of tape positioned somewhere around the 10 and 2 o'clock position, then start gradually moving them up equally toward centerline position, if you start running into the rim spar problem again then start adding more weights equally to each position until you get it balanced......
When using multiple weights, rather then going to one or the side of the previous weight, you can go to the opposite side of the rim. If using 4 weights having two on either side of the rim will get you closer to the center line.
Great tips with the tip ties. Wish I had seen this video earlier, before doing my rear tire . Shall try your method on my next day off on the front. tire Thank a lot.
Really good info ! Motorcycle tires are expensive by themselves. However, mount and balancing usually runs another $50. Simple but effective method. Thanks Zack !
Here's how you change a worn tire that you will throw out. Once the wheel and tire is off the bike, lay the wheel on a towel or rug and stab the side wall with a utility knife and cut around the tire. Flip wheel over cut other side wall around tire. Remove tread, remove side walls and discard. Lay new tire on side and rub tire paste on tire bead and wheel rim. Make sure tire direction is correctly oriented to wheel. Press wheel into tire. Flip over and press other bead by hand into wheel. Your done!, no tire breaker, no tire bars. Just your hands, a knife and tire lube..................aaannnnnd your welcome!
Easier said than done, especially when pressing on the second bead. They don't make long tire irons and powered tire machines for nothing. With the right rim and the right tire it can be easy on and easy off but so many times that isn't the case.
You can use the bicycle pump to put a sh*tload of pressure into another tire (your car spare wheel for example) and then you'll only need an air hose with an inflator chuck at both ends, one goes to the "pressure tank" tire and another one goes to the tire you are trying to mount. That two-ended hose is a good thing to have with you always, not saying it is a nice thing to steal air from the tires of parked cars but anyone who stops to help and does not have a pump or a compressor, will probably have a spare tire which they can pump back up in the next service station.
i learned a lot from your video and appreciate the confidence it instilled; thank you for it. you might be interested to know that you CAN in fact set a bead with a bike pump... if you also have a can of starter fluid. i learned this trick many years ago from some people who were on some kind of antarctic expedition or something crazy like that. the idea is, (in a very safe, outdoor place, away from anything flammable), just shoot a couple quick bursts of starter fluid inside the tire, step back, and throw a lit match at it. the fluid vapor will ignite, bursting the tire outward and onto the bead. then you can pump with a hand/foot pump. apparently there is a way to use just a ratchet strap as well (and no explosion)... seems much safer, and perhaps less detrimental to the integrity of the tire, but, no explosion!
thanks! I have been replacing tires at least one tire per year. Dyna Beads I would recommend. Some use the clear tube and remove the tire valve. tedious. I usually get the beads popped back on with a small battery operated air compressor then pop one bead back off and pour the ceramic beads into that side of the rim. Static balancing. take care!
Hair dryer heats from inside. Much quicker than the sun heating from outside. A good hot dryer will result with almost to hot to touch. Adding a towel on top to keep heat in works great.
This was a great video, one thing I've learned is you can tape the wheel weights on initally with electrical tape or similar before you commit to using the self adhesive backing. Easier to fix if you mess up and easy to remove that last weight if you go too far.
If you aren't a cycle shop, (or someone just bringing you the tire and not the bike) The easiest tire balancing stand is simply to mount the wheel back on the bike. I have a wheel balancer and I usually just throw it on the bike to balance it. (Of course you can't balance on the bike if you have a shaft driven rear and you're balancing the rear tires. If you want to bead the tire with your bicycle pump. Here's a tip: take a an old serpentine belt, wrap the belt around the center of the tire, (It's a bit tricky because the belt is going to try to fall off the round tire but it's doable,) twist the belt in circles until it tightens up on the tire. When it gets tight use a long pry bar or screwdriver to twist the belt. The belt will pull it in the center of the tire and force the edges of the tire out towards the rim. Start pumping the tire, when you see that the tire is sealing you can let the belt free.
Necessity is the mother of invention well done real world tyre change. You had me laughing at start with the wood snap but you got it done 👌 I will use the tape around the levers trick that's great thanks for sharing mate much appreciated cheers from Sydney Australia Happy Trails Brother
What I like about this, is that you're not gouging your rims with tire levers. Of course, rim protectors CAN save your rims from damage - the best rim protectors imho are the flat sides cut off of some old laundry-detergent bottles. They're big enough they won't slide all the way into the tire & get "lost" - use as big of a bottle as possible toward this end. Of course I'm not suggesting that you use the non-concentrated detergents, 'cause that's a waste just shipping all that water around. I'd rather see you pick up the bulk economy size bottles of concentrated detergents. Though keep an eye out for those 2-for-1 sales 'cause sometimes the smaller bottles are cheaper. Don't just go off the "loads per bottle", calculate the cost per mL or fluid ounce or whatever (depending on the currency used) and grab the best deal. These rim protectors are supposed to be FREE - get it? Okay, yeah - the flat plastic laundry bottle sides, cut with rounded corners so you don't scratch anything with THAT even - And maybe even double 'em up when you're really wrenching on a long-handled lever. Keep an eye on it, too - make sure the levers aren't pressing holes through the plastic, that the plastic isn't wounding your paint - watch out for a "crush injury" on the paint or clear-coat or chrome or whatever. And make sure the rim is protected EVERYWHERE you poke that lever - both along the lip of the rim AND under the tire itself where you can't see it - YET.
I can't take credit for it. But it does work. Rim gouges kind of a "pet peeve" of mine, 'cause I'm rebuilding a bunch of wheels with period-correct rims, sometimes NOS but also sometimes used. I'm doing some interesting (imho) wire-spoke stuff with my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" and "KZ440LOL" projects, as well as some rebuilt COMSTAR wheels using the lightweight Akront "NERVI" center-flange rims. Rare as hen's teeth. So I've had to make do with used rims sometimes. And some of these older wire rims seem to be softer than others. In every respect, not all wheels are created equal - And that definitely doesn't mean that "newer is better", either!
Im gonna use the zip method. I've backed over a tire edge with my truck to break the bead and also placed a tire under a kickstand to use the weight of a bike to break the bead. But the ties look soooo much easier! Thank you bro.. Just subscribed
Hey Thanks Big Poppa. I hope it helps, it's not completely painless but it seemed to work decently. You might get a kick out of this example of the technique you mentioned, using the truck. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jBr_exsYmnc.html
Just an itsy bitsy less painful is really good lol thank you for the info buddy its a big help.. Had to cut the tire off and the bead. It was very torturous but after a few grueling hours its now off lol the new one gets ziptied and out on next
I bought a Harbor Freight pancake compressor (6 gal - 150 PSI) some 12 -13 years ago. It was $89 and I used a 20% off coupon, not sure they take coupons on compressors any more, but that was the best buy I ever made.
i did it today the first time a 180 i had the same trouble with the wood, i cut my tyre in 2 arround with a stanleyknife then i press it from the rim and its off, then i use the ziptire , work great.....thanks man!
I mounted my own tire then took it to the local moto shop (cycle gear) where they do the balancing free of charge. Bought the tire for 20$ cash from a private party. I was quoted over 300$ prior to beginning this project, i spent a total of 47$ with the cost of the barely used front tire and a specialized tire iron.
A squirt of ether or gas and air pump hooked up add a match and bead is seated I've used that on my lawn mower wheels not a problem 👌 Just use a little you don't want to really blow it past the bead lol
Hey just watched your video i loved it im all about do it your self and being self sufficient. I realy liked that you even showed your errors as well. I have found that a lot of motorcycle riders use the static balance methods and sure 40 dillars and a shop will do it but for some people 40 is a lot when you only have 10. Keep it up and i plan on checking out you other videos and thanks again for the awesome advice.
I'm a big fan of anyone who uses a bit of 'McGyverology' to get things done. A big thumbs up to ZOAT for demonstrating what can be done if you put your mind to it.
loved your vid bead breaker brilliant as there are so many diff materials that could be used another great idea zip ties , and if i could add my bit wooden wedges harder woods like a broken hammer shaft buffed up makes a good Tyre lever again its a very abundant material also if you spay any airisol product like a deodorant inside the tyre then light it will pop ur Tyre onto the rimes works every time
Balance tire when loose on rim. Slide tire around to balance both together. Then air up tire and balance , if it needs it. Warm up tires before you try to mount them. Windex , so water does not stay inside rim , tire.
Thanks so much!! I have been playing with motorcycles for 50 years and you have added to my mental toolbox! You can also put a ratchet strap around the tire to help set the bead! Thanks again
Pledge furniture polish works great. Just changed both my tires on my Ultra Limited and it doesn't make a mess like soapy water. Zip ties, Pledge and C clamp or wood vise.
to get the tire off .. try using a sharp knife .. cut all around the tire side on both sides of the tire .. and you can pull the last part straight off .. simple and easy :)
a couple things.. you forgot about the White dot marker on side of the tire from the manufacturer indicating the location for the valve stem alignment! ok.. start over...lol.. Sunlight is good for warming up the tire and it's free .. also as said earlier "When trying to set the bead, wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and crank it snug". But i will add, if you have a firecracker lying around, slide it in, light the fuse and drop it into the interior..boom.. you have a set bead.. now use your bicycle pump..
Any reason not to balance on the bike? I mean, you already had to suspend the wheel to remove it so if you loose-fit with the axel then it should be suspended and spin freely.
thanks this video mad me realise i dont need to spend 85 dollers on a cheap balancing fraim from amazon i can make one like you but i can weld one together. thank you
I spent the $90 at Princess Auto for the bead breaker to avoid some of these issues, I was also fortunate enough to get parts for building my own balancer for $25 (These prices are in Canadian funds so consider then to be worth about 49cents US)
I had a tough one.I cut access with sawzall and torched the steel bead.I am a welder so it was easy not an issue.Took 5 minutes to get off.Let the tire sit in sun and did the tape method.Zip tie works too
I use a mouse fitting frame with bead breaker to free the tyre, £30. If you cut up an old hose pipe and slide sections on your rims your levers wont mark
After ensuring the wheel bearings are in perfect condition, Ive always spun the wheel in both directions say 10 times starting with the heaviest position at the 3 & 9 o'clock positions.This equalises the effects of inertia. Marking with chalk the heaviest position then take an average as the point to attach weights. Then add or subtract weight to suit. I would never put anything steel next to the wheel unprotected by plastic.
Thanks for the video. If you change your own tires, you may invest in a harbor freight tire changer. You can get it for 30$ with a discount coupon or something. don't usually buy electric tools there but I am ok with wrenches, mechanical ones that are just some piece of metal.
I know people say to align the red or yellow dot with the valve stem as it's supposed to be the heaviest spot on the rim. I normally remove all old weights place the bare rim on my balancing axel to find the heavest spot. You would be surprised how many times I found the valve stem area, not the heaviest. So I would mark the heaviest spot and align the tire with red/yellow dot. I have asked my old-time mechanic and he side doing it my way is more time that most mechanics don't do because they would need to charge more for the extra step.
Great video. I would suggest eliminating the soap and water and use the proper tire lube. When using soap and water, the water causes the bead seat area of the rim to corrode. The next tire change will involve a bunch of rim prep in order to get the bead to seal. I've seen them so bad that rubber sealant had to be applied to the bead seat prior to installing the tire.
you can make a cheap rim protector by getting one or several 4 inch (100mm) pieces of hose pipe and running a single cut along it allowing it to open up and slip over the rim... caution must be taken to ensure the piece doesn't get left inside the new tyre
yeah I suppose, depending on how you look at it. It was a pretty soft compound so it went from "Hey I can almost see a thread" in the morning to "I cant believe that thing held together" by the time I got home (34mi RT)
Great video, I subscribed and look forward to the rest of them. Btw, not a criticism, but worth mentioning: it is risky to ride a tire down to the cords. I’m getting my Motorcycle Safety Foundation Instructor cert. this year, so I point out risks when I see them.
That’s good advice and something that I heed pretty closely myself. If I recall correctly, on this particular tire I detected a hint of a cord just below the surface in one place right before heading to work (17mi). By the time I got home that afternoon I was shocked by how bad it had gotten so quickly
depending on your comfort level with fire, and small explosions (yeah!!), you can easily seat the bead with a small amt of flamable liquid (gas, brake fluid, etc...) and a lighter. pour small amt of fluid up into tire and light in appropriate safe manner. when it "pops" pump some air into it quickly. works every (almost) time. cya
Part of figuring things out for yourself is learning from others, after all, we want to learn from others' mistakes instead of our own. This video is a good tutorial , although not definitive for all applications 👍
