Factory car jacks are great for harvesting the high tensile rods and parts for making this! Just need to cut it out and pretty much have everything you need. A bit of welding/fab/cobbling work of some scrap and you can really make a nice little tool for doing multiple bushes!
Used this method many times. Depending on the bushing size and how badly it's stuck, sometimes I just use a torch to burn out the old bushing then cut the sleeve and punch it out. Then use the threaded rod method as shown to press a new one in. Also I put bushings in a freezer over night to make it a little easier to press in.
Great advice, I've used the freezer trick on plenty of things that are an interference fit. Everything from bearing races to valve guides in a mini cylinder head!
Just used the same method yesterday on a clio fork to replace 2 bushings. Very satisfying to DIY . bushings were 9.92€ and the easy way out was buy a new fork 42€. Needless to say i went with the bushing method and learned something more how to do.
This is how I did it the other day with the control arm still under the vehicle parcely still connected I like how you explain and the video was to the point alot of videos i have watched they explain it like you are 5year old and no nothing about cars and they skip over stuff and use fancy hi tec stuff and you end up watching a 30 min video with only 2 or 3 minutes that is even relavent to what you are doing so thank you
Glad you liked it. It's hard to know the level of mechanical aptitude of the viewers, so I just try to shoot down the middle of the road somewhere. Probably someone who has done some mechanical work before, but maybe just not that particular thing is what I aim for.
The install tip was worth the price of admission alone. I am hoping to change my Panhard rod, trailing arm, drag link, Radius arm bushes and install a lokka over Easter so this info was just in time! 👍
Agreed! I need to do my control arm bushings. A single control arm is $130. Bushings are $10/each but a press is $300+ and a bushing tool kit is $90. This is about $0.05 in sweat equity! Brilliant! I shall pass this shade-tree-ery down to my own children.
Great video. You should use barrel nuts as they are longer and have more threads, so that they are less likely to strip the threads under heavy loads. Oil your thread helps, too. Your pipe looked like it was deforming, so be sure to use a thick wall pipe.
It is amazing how controlled pressing can be; so much better and effective than trying to bash something in or out - great work! I love your install of the Panhard rod, very easy. Cheers Simon.
Yes they pretty tuff land cruiser bought a ball joint kit on Amazon bent the thick vise part my fault now then I bought another kit from harbour freight around same price but harbours was even thicker and dud the job so when I got the bushing to move it would make a loud crack and move maybe 3/16 just kept spraying fluid on it and the vice now I'm getting better at it and faster just got to keep adjusting everything yo get it centered as much as u can its kind of fun takes about an hour or nr bushing got me taking my time
Dude... why don't you make this easy on yourself, slip a piece of cut pipe over the handle of your wrench and comfortably take it off. You don't have to make it harder than it is. (Leverage)
Trying to change the lower bushing on a pneumatic 90 pound breaker hammer. I think this is the idea I needed. Seems a lot safer than my idea involving a 5 ton chain hoist, a long carriage bolt with hook loop welded on the end, and 2 stout trees.
Lock your Hubs 4WDing Northwest corner of the united states, the trees are endowed well enough. However, what happens when the bushing breaks loose, and where do I stand while pulling the belay chain on the hoist?
Mate you make it look so easy haha!...me just the other day i just finished putting the bushing in a 99 Toyota altezza rear bottom knuckle bushing thats the one the shock arm bolts to i cant just put the entire disk in the vice like you I tell yah it was a nightmare not having a proper hoist and just jackstands lighting was terrible and just me doing the job.. i was cursing and everything lol. Getting them out was a breeze but putting them back in I snapped 2 bolts because i couldn't see if it was aligned properly unless i really pulled the hub rods etc apart til it hanged down to view it as i did but didnt really want to and to getting better advantage...then the head of the shaft pop out that comes out of the diff head...keep in mind ive never done this sort of stuff before so after getting in the last bushing i ripped the boot and the nightmare continues the frustration things in the way etc!...oh my goodness its all done now it took me a week yes so i know what its like when things dont go right...but youtube is great to have
Thanks for the idea! I need to do the rear lower control arm on my Toyota Townace Van. I'm a bit scared of the spring as it seats on the lower arm. Hoping I can slowly jack the arm up into position without the spring taking my face off
I was waiting till the end for the track bar trick, thinking the whole time when I worked for Jeep I always had someone jump in and crank the wheel back and forth until It lined up lol. That 100% works, I've don't it 200 times probably. Jeep thinks it's a good idea to put ball joints on 1 end of things that were never supposed to have them. As far as the press method always worked for me. A ball joint press C-clamp kit is your friend. It seems to come in super handy for pressing things like those.
I believe it would be better to grease the socket, to avoid the issue getting it out. In addition greasing the new bushing is also recommended. (Silicon grease which doesn't impact the rubber)
It depends on the design of the bushing, on some, the inner is slightly wider than the outer, so you couldn't do it with one like that, though if both the inner and outer are the same length, that should work fine!
This method is great. I have been using it to remove bushings while the control arm is still attached on the other end because they are so maneuverable. Is this any danger in putting this much pressure on these materials though? I'm guessing/hoping no because the pressure isn't contant and only goes one direction but just wanted to make sure. Also could one use the new bushing to push out the old bushing and all at once seat the new one as well? I believe it will work but was wondering if this would damage the new bushing?
Where do u get these bolts? The ones from homedepot and lowes even the yellow grade 8 and stainless grade 12, the rivets bend, the nut gets stuck and cant get it off one bolt snapped in half!!
Thanks mate. The blooper reel is only a short selection that I have to choose from! We're all human, and sometimes I'm considerably more human than most! :)
My cars (nissan primera p12) friont control arm has bushes that mount on a protrusion or "pin" on the arm. You cannot use a bolt/nut (removal or reinstall) as that pin blocks the entry of one end off. Trying to figure out how best to proceed.
The idea was to demonstrate a bush change without the tooling you might have at home, including a vice. While I know the sway bar was held in a vice during the demonstration, it could have just as easily been ratchet strapped to a tree stump.
There are custom made tools on ebay for about £20 for my the axle bushes of my Ford Fiesta, by the time I've bought nuts and bolts I'd be as well with that. But, Many thanks.
If there is a cheap dedicated tool to do the job, that's usually easier. Though sometimes there isn't, and you might not have access to a press, that's when this method might come in handy.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I'll either use a hole saw or drill to first remove the old part. Then clean and sand the carrier before using the tool to insert the new part. Less risk of snapping the pulling bolt I think. I would be saving a £100 on garage labour. I appreciate the need for resourceness that you express, that and saving money! Many thanks for taking the trouble to post this guide!
I have just replaced my front panhard arm with an adjustable one and will be replacing the rear one in the next few days on my 80 series, luckily I didn't replace any of the bushes. This is a great way of doing the bushes and I wish I had of known this when I did the rear caster arm bushes last month. Great stuff keep it up. I have a question for you please which I am having problems with getting a correct answer to.. My 80 series has a 3" lift kit in it and I'm wanting to know if I need to get and fit a brake proportioning valve extension plate? Can you help me with this information please and maybe supply a video if you have one. Thanks Tim.
At 3" of lift the proportioning valve needs to go up 3" otherwise the braking will think there is reduced load on the back wheels, this is especially bad for non-abs cars. A simple extension bracket will fix this. Don't forget to check your diff brake line lengths so you're not hanging off the brake lines at full droop. Hope this helps.
@@LockyourHubs4WDingThanks, My rear brake line comes to the centre of the diff so I'm guessing that will be ok but I will check thanks. So do I need to adjust the BPV at all or just remove and fit an extension plate? do you have a video of this at all ??
It's the little things... before adopting the steering wheel technique, I spent a good hour stuffing around with ratchet straps. Now I kick myself for doing it any other way!
Thanks I'll check that tonight! You'll still need something on the other side as the centre of the bush protrudes out further than the edge by a few millimeters, a socket of the right diameter would do the job.
The press is a better solution no doubt. My local suspension guy shut shop and I was having trouble getting into a local mechanics. I probably lucked out having a peice of pipe about the right diameter, though a deep socket would be able to do the same job. It's all about self sufficiency and not having to rely on others especially if you're remote. The only thing I needed to get was the high tensile allthread after snapping the hardware grade m12 allthread I had in the scrap pile.
