Today I changed the engine oil, hydra power oil, and transmission oil on my 1960s Oliver 1650. Enjoy my sarcasm and some interactions with the barnyard animals.
Glad to see that you are getting that Oliver 1650 running again, and treating it to some fresh fluids/filters. I've got one of those in the shed myself that's been in the family since early 1970s. 5:55 You mention needing a funnel. Pull out your pocket knife, and cut bottom inch off one of those quart oil containers... handy insta-funnel ! 6:33 Hook the air tube back to the carb, and it will run a bit better with some suction through air filter. (Plus you keep dust/crud/hay out of your engine) 7:20 my 1650 has grille style #2, but both tractors have lights on fender, and it can be nice to have a few extra bright beamers on your nose. 8:40 you will be filling that Lil gas can a LOT, if you are working much with that Oliver... but probably best to have a clean Lil tank, rather than a cruddy rust filled one while getting other things fixed up. You will probably have to pull the hood & remove that tank later to get it cleaned out & maybe coated with tank cream. If you are lucky, you may be able to take off tank, remove bottom valve/filter screen, then toss in 30 nuts+bolts to shake +rattle loose anything inside, then re-use. 8:18 Yup, that's exactly the distinctive sound our Oliver 1650 makes! 23:23 You can hear it coming down the road or through a hay field long before you see it. 11:11 Maint tip: when putting on those oil filters, use sharpie marker to write year/month, so you know later when oil+filter last changed, and to avoid cross thread filter, turn backwards/ccw till you feel a click as threads line up, then twist in tighten direction. 11:40 another spot to use that insta-funnel 12:45 I think most Oliver's leak oil past the PTO shaft (ours always did) but you can top of 10yrs of oil cheaper than paying a shop to pull the shaft and replace a seal. Maybe that's a maint task you can do for yourself, and likely find the new seal for about $35 13:43 Woah !! Having that much water in your rear end & hydraulics is not good news! I hope it had not been run+worked like that much... but GooD on YoU for checking everything yourself and replacing fluids before going anywhere. You may have saved yourself a repair bill that's higher than the value of the tractor. Hopefully that was under 10% water that drained out, and the rest was oil. You likely have some moisture still in lines and pump that will need to work itself out & evaporate while running. Watch that over time to figure out if any new water is getting in system, or where it may have been coming from. 20:30 are the hydraulics unhooked for the Loader arms? You probably want to lift those UP a few feet, before the run into something, even if you have to pick it up with a jack & hold with a chain for a while. 23:45 Leave the choke 1/3 pulled out for the first 3 min running, it will be less likely to stall. 24:38 what was that 3ft shaft that just fell off your left fender? (doesn't look like you ran over it) 1:30 Yea, the cost of fluids ain't cheap, but the cost of a dead tractor isn't either. Hope it keeps running for years to come.
Just wondering why use diesel engine oil on a gas tractor? I’m trying to find more information about my Oliver and found it interesting. Thank you for sharing! This was helpful. I’ve also made a dang mess trying to fill that transmission!
Hi, I use diesel oil in all my equipment that has a flat tappet camshaft. This style of camshaft needs Zinc in the oil or it will ruin the camshaft. You can use regular oil, but you must use a zinc additive. Diesel oil already includes the zinc, so it is cheaper and more convenient to use diesel oil in older equipment. This does not apply to an engine with a roller camshaft. Hope this helps
You may have missed a fluid check under transmission compared to this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NlZ40Zin6h8.html And Another Hyd oil filter check: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dv_MU6sd9YY.html
