Changing the Oil in my 2021 SeaDoo GITI SE 170 #JetSki Music: www.bensound.com Amazon Links #ad: Seadoo Oil: amzn.to/3yqZYez * As an Amazon Associate we earn a small commission on all sales.
Thanks for posting here mate. We plan on buying this exact model in Australia and quite handy doing these kinds of services, which as you indicated are not hard and can save you quite a bit of money. Cheers
do the skis have logbooks (like cars) which show proof of dealer servicing, or no servicing stamped log books with Sea Doo's, hence you can do it yourself, and not scare off ppl when it comes to re-sale ?
Glad you enjoyed it! If you like this video you may like our other videos on Sea-Doos as well. We recently started a new channel just to focus on Sea-Doo content. youtube.com/@WeekendersontheWater?si=p19IZLWkjHsWjMLg
Just a tip : take spark plugs out before turning the starter. It's less effort for the starter and battery. You can get a little more oil out by slushing from the filter housing while the starter is turning.
Thanks for the video. I didn't notice that you attached the earth strap on the coil pack incorrectly. It should go above the pack and under the head of the bolt. You put it under the coil pack. Doesn't look like there'll be much earth connection there. Have a look at 18:49, which is how it was before you removed them.
I have the 2021 Gti Se and did first oil change at 17 hrs. It’s getting cooler in Georgia so probably will not put very more hrs on this year. I bought the oil change kit with 3 quarts and 1 pint, rings and oil filter. I have the same pump and removed almost a gallon of oil. So now I am short oil. Next time I will get the gallon jug. The oil stick is showing just a little oil. Not near where it should be. I guess I literally sucked all the oil out of it. I’m confused when I read everyone saying it was more than enough. I have jet ski level in the garage too.
That is interesting. Having done a few oil changes on my 2021 and 2017, I've never been able to get more than 2.5 or so quarts out. Not sure what was done differently.
@@professionalweekenders I cranked it over several times and it seems to look close enough. So the kit was more than enough. I think it was probably overfilled from dealer.
Those are harbor freight jack dollies. They run about $100 each. I managed to catch them on sale for $70. Been thinking of doing a full review video on them, but long story short, they work great.
Great vid. Maintenance reminder just came up on my 2020 170 GTI. Do you know how to reset that? Going to try to change oil just as you did but want to reset that when done.
Thanks Matt. I'm not a mechanic by any means; I just like to to basic maintenance on my own stuff. I've not seen the maintenance reminder on my ski and I'm at about 70 hours so far. I did a quick Google search, it may be something more serious. You can start with the oil change and then try disconnecting the battery for a bit. If it is still there, you can buy a diagnostic device or take it to the dealership. Good luck!
Just changed oil in my 2023 SeaDoo 230 WakePro and noticed a gap between the oil filter canister cap & housing, say about .100". You mentioned this in the video, but was wondering if this is a constant issue and if you know why this is? Thanks for any information you can provide.
I'm not sure why the gap is there. It seems to be from manufacturing. However I do know that it was there before I ever did my first oil change, so I just keep it consistent.
the screws that hold the cover on.....what is on the underside of them? How do they not fall into the machine? Not the front ones, but all the back ones.
On the very first oil change, would you change out the spark plugs? Some say don't need to change plugs until 50hrs. I am a brand new 2023 GTX-230 owner.
@@professionalweekenders I have seen a lot of videos where people will run the engine (hooked up to water) for 4 min to warm up the oil first then extract the oil. (Strange because See Doo only recommends the engine to run hooked up to a hose for no more than 2min to flush out the exhaust) But I have also seen what you did. Hold the throttle so the engine turns over for 30 seconds then extract the oil. What to do? Im ready for my first oil change. Thank you.
Thank you. Just used a generic one from Amazon. It comes with the correct size hoses so no need to purchase anything else, I believe it is probably about 1/4". Here is the link to the pump on Amazon. Less than $20 www.amazon.com/Extractor-Scavenge-Suction-Transfer-Changing/dp/B07X33FC1V/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=oil+pump&qid=1631925818&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A1RKX5VK3854M&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRlRMQUhEOEZTTUhDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NjU5MUZSRTU4STlISjZaVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTA2MDgwMkdENVROM1FZNjdUUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
I got my oil change kit from the dealer and it came with 3 quarts plus a small bottle for topping off. The o ring package looks different also. Funny thing is yours has the small o ring as this one does not. Price was 81.99
Good to know. Thanks for the tip. Did yours include spark plugs? That seems to make the biggest difference in the price of the kits that I've seen online.
Spark plugs should have a specific gap in order to create an optimal spark. If the gap is too big or to small it may not spark correctly. I'm sure you can look up the official gap measurement in the shop manual, but what I typically do is take an average of the gaps on the old plugs when I remove them and ensure that the new plugs are set consistently to that measurement. Most of the time the plugs come pre-gaped, but it doesn't hurt to double check. You can purchase one of those measuring coins at your local auto parts store for less than a dollar. You can use the coin itself to increase the gap if needed, and if you need to reduce the gap just lightly tap the end of the plug on something hard.
Great and informative video! How is the hull holding up? Seeing videos of cracked polytech 2.0 and the dreaded carbon seal issues too 😑 I am in the market for the gti not going to be doing anything crazy let me know your thoughts!
So far good. Got close to fifty hours on it so far. No issues. The hull held up better than my fiberglass one did when both we run up on a bed of barnacles. No issues with the carbon seal either. I think that is an older issue, or from improper use. Don't run/rev it out of water to keep it cool and protect the seal from damage (aside from a quick engine flush). Also don't break the motor mounts jumping massive waves and you shouldn't have any issues. Finally, it comes with a 3 year warranty.
Concerns about carbon seals are mostly posted by SeaDoo detractors. Much ado about nothing. I have 260 hours on a 2007 GTI SE and the carbon seal is original and still good. And I also have a 2021 GTI SE 170 too, and I think fiberglass is smoother and less drag in the water, but the hull has fiberglass stringers embedded for additional strength. It would take an insane accident and impact to break this hull. Not concerned at all with strength and mounts.
I just did the first oil change on mine tonight. Your video was super helpful. The only thing I was curious about was I was able to get almost 4 quarts out of it. The kit only came with 3.5 so I have to buy another quarter to top it off. Why do you think you only were able to remove 2.5 quarts? The manual says we should be able to remove 3.3 quarts.
I wonder, if maybe yours was over filled. It can be a real problem to get the dipstick to show an accurate level. Make sure the ski is sitting level, turn the engine over a few times to get all the oil in the right places, and you may have to give it up to 30 minutes for all the oil to settle. Just be careful about putting too much in. Too much oil can damage the engine.
@@professionalweekenders It was still on the factory break in so it would have had to been over filled at the factory. The manual says it has 5 quarts in it and that you can only get 3.3 out. I guess i was able to get a little more than that out. I've got to find a different oil next year. 100 bucks for a 4 quart oil change is ridiculous.
I tryed to put it in drown mode hit brake instead of gas and it started for a second how must damage you think I did there was still oil in it verry little
I have a question: I completed the oil change yesterday, poured the New oil in an completed the job ! …however, I soon realized that I forgot to turn the engine over a few times (as you explained) to get more of the old oil out. Is it a big deal or what would be your say on this situation ??
I think it depends on how old the old oil is. If the old oil had more than 50 hours on it, I may go 20 to 30 hours knowing that the oil that's in there now is a mix of old and new. But if you want to be on the safe side, if you completely replace it all at least you'll know it is all new. So what you SHOULD do is replace it all. What I would do is probably run it another 25 hours or so.
@@professionalweekenders With this design you will never get all the used oil out. Poor design and nothing you can do about it that I can see. If someone could devise a way to tap a drain valve into the sump ( if there is a sump on these engines) they could make a ton of money. Premium price paid for a lawnmower engine.
The 130 and 170 are the exact same engine, just a different tune. Infact the GTX, GTR, RXP, RXT, FishPro are the same too although some have a supercharger. They all take the same plugs, filter, and oil. When you searching on Amazon the only thing you really have to look out for is don't buy one for the spark or the GTI 90. Those are smaller engines and come with less oil. I generally just look for one that offers a full gallon. This listing here will do just fine. www.amazon.com/Sea-Doo-Change-Filter-Rings/dp/B072PYLTFB/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3G38M9GL6P3SK&keywords=seadoo+oil+change+kit&qid=1662424831&sprefix=see+doo+oil%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc
Hey there! Thank you so much for watching. Links below :) Pump: www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Extractor-Scavenge-Transfer/dp/B082TNCJP8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=O191YCZKVIFT&keywords=oil+extractor+pump&qid=1682887309&sprefix=oil+extr%252Caps%252C174&sr=8-4&_encoding=UTF8&tag=profession038-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=65e99f8a1afae2c3ba9ac52b5a48e0fe&camp=1789&creative=9325 Kit: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071WCWZVT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&_encoding=UTF8&tag=profession038-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=5823f7a3669e963902c71633d6864180&camp=1789&creative=9325
Hey man, how many hours have you already put on it to need that oil change and especially spark plug change? I have a 2020 gti se 170 and with only 43 hours on it I was only going to change oil before summer and not spark plugs.
In the video, it only had 20 hours on it. The user manual recommends changing the oil and performing a full service within the first 50 hours. I believe it's a good idea to change the oil early and get out some of the metal shavings that is in the engine from the break-in process of the sharp edges and new grooves being cut as the engine breaks in. The manual further recommends additional full service once a year. Full service includes oil change and spark plugs. I agree the spark plugs are probably a bit overkill, but they come in the kit and don't cost much more. Also I'm trying to maintain my warranty while still doing the work myself. Finally you have to remember these are small high-strung engines they are not nearly as robust as a car engine. It's probably closer to a piece of lawn equipment like a small tractor or lawn mower, although this is a four stroke. It's not uncommon for manufacturers of lawn mowers to recommend oil changes and including spark plugs once a year.
Yours with 43 hours on it is perfect as long as you change the oil before the rideing season starts in your area. Keep your recipes for the warenty and have fun ripping it up on your ski this summer!
I did not have any codes to erase. This ski has 90 hours on it so far and no codes at all. My older 2017 had a maintenance required soon code pop up right around 100 hours while I was doing an oil change on it. I've heard that for the older ones like the 2017 that you need a special computer to erase it. In my case it just went away. So luckily I have not had to deal with any codes yet. For the newer ones like this 2021, I've heard that you can erase the code yourself, although I don't remember exactly the process. It has something to do with pushing and holding a series of buttons, I'm sure it can be found again on a form.
My local dealer got me with a 6 services 2 for each year, including labor and cost, a gap insurance and a 5 year Lasting UV coat to the ski that will cover any fade or damage part from sun exposure at $3400 cost 😆 These toys r very expensive 🤦🏻♂️
There is a small filter on the fuel pump inside the gas tank. I have not had to replace mine yet. I have heard that it's good for 500 or maybe even as much as 1000 hours before it needs replaced.
How come you wouldn’t pull oil from the fill cap? Seems like it might be easier? You can also get oil change kits from the dealer not Amazon that have the exact amount of oil in smaller jugs and a filter with rubber seals just so you know!
Thanks for the tip. I suction from the dip stick because it is direct access to the bottom engine. I'm not sure it's possible to snake the tube all the way down the engine from the fill tube.
@@professionalweekenders Question ... I have a 2020 wake 170 and I have a manual pump (that worked perfectly on our 2020 Sea Doo Trixx) BUT I can only get the tube about 2/3 of the way down on the 170?? It does have a slight bend in the dipstick, but I simply can't get it past that point and don't want to screw anything up.
@@cnterfld21 it should be be same engine. I had no problem getting my tube straight down there. I think there is a slight seal where the dipstick tube attaches to the block, maybe you're getting hung up on that. Try wiggling it or maybe get a thinner hose. You should feel it bottom out. I think I know the bend you are talking about at the bottom, but you don't need to bend it to get the oil out. Once it hits the bottom, that is it. No need for it to bend 90° into the pan.
@@professionalweekenders Well based on the length of the dipstick I'm coming up about 3 " inches short (story of my life..LOL) with the drain tube. And my Trixx has the 900 Rotax 90hp and our Wake 170 has the Rotax 1630 170hp. Thanks for the feedback
They start at $11500. Add in tax, title, delivery, and assembly, $14500 out the door. Of course that is without the $800 optional sound system which I didn't want and didn't get. I had hard time finding a 170 in stock that didn't already have the sound system installed. Had to drive to Orlando to get this one. Oh, and I already had the trailer. Expect to pay between $800-$2500 for a trailer if you want single vs double, aluminum vs galvanized.
Do you have a video on how to remove the battery from this model? I want to pull my during storage and trickle charge them, but don't know how to remove the battery.
Hey thanks for watching, unfortunately not I have not had to remove my battery yet. I have done a trickle charger while it was still installed that worked just fine. However I did just now go out and take a look at mine I think it is fairly straightforward to remove this battery. If you lift up on the cooling hose above the battery it should fold out of place, and then you only need to remove the strap that ties it down unbolt the terminals and it should lift straight out. I know on this model the battery is next to the engine while on the older style models it was located behind the plastic gray wall in the front storage area. Maybe I will do a video on this at some point though, you are the second person that I have seen with this question. Probably would make for a good video. Thanks for the advice.
@@professionalweekenders Hey! Yea, unfortunately, it's not that easy. Once the strap is removed it doesn't budge... There is a piece of sheet metal part-way over it, and whatever I try that won't budge either. Unfortunately, the only way I have to trickle charge them is to remove the batteries and charge them in the garage, because they will be stored in a storage unit without electricity. Any help is greatly appreciated and yes!... make a video!
@@darringunnell5158 okay, curiosity got the best of me. So here I am after midnight out my garage taking a look at the battery. First I unhooked the terminals. Be careful don't drop those bolts. Next I pushed down on the strap near the engine and was able to wiggle it towards the engine and under the clip. I've seen some other people that have a double strap while mine is a single blue strap. I did not have to fight very much to get that off but other people said it was a real pain. I was able to do it with my bare hands. Next with the strap off I see the metal plate to which you're referring. On my model it is fairly loose and can be easily pushed out of the way without bending it. Once that was out of the way the battery still seem to be stuck in place. I'll admit this had me stumped for a moment. But after reading other comments it doesn't seem as though there's any other mechanical connection holding it down. So I grabed the battery from the side, the the short end nearest the hall and pulled towards the center of the ski. That did the trick and the battery came loose. From there I was able to easily lift it straight out. Now putting it back in will be a challenge for tomorrow. I've read some other people say that putting it in as much more difficult than taking it out. But again I think that seems to be issues with how tight that strap is or how long the battery was left not in the strap. Good luck. I'll try to do a video on this maybe this week or next week.
@@darringunnell5158 and I can't go to sleep unless it's finished. So I tried to reinstalling it. That actually went much easier than I expected. I think the tip on this is to make sure you have a good pair of gloves preferably with a rubber grips. My strap was so covered in oil and Sea-Doo lube I could not get a good grip on it I also busted my knuckle pretty good. So definitely use some good gloves and you shouldn't have much of an issue.
I didn't, can't run the engine out of water for very long anyway. So I'm not sure how warm the oil will get in just a minute or so. I suppose it may be worth a shot.
If you have the money to buy a newer seadoo pay for sacrifice oil instead of spinning engine over low oil, just fill with same w synthetic car oil spill over engine 20secs no revs re drain fill with the good stuff and use red on that filter nut USE RED!!
