Changing the shock absorbers on a Bosch ClassiXX 1200 Express

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With a machine that was trying to run out of the room during spin cycles I thought it was time to change the shock absorbers. With the tools to hand it took about 1 hour and well worth it.
Please 'LIKE' if you found the video useful as it will help to raise the video up the suggested list and help others. I don't stand to make anything from this as I cannot monetise below 1000 subs anyway.
WARNING - If you are going to play with the insides of this device make sure it is isolated from the electrical supply.

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5 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 122

@j.o.hulten2658 4 года назад

Thanks for posting this excellent video. The written instructions calls for a 13.2mm diamter drill to reame the hole. The bolt however is only 8mm in diameter. Twotone solves this brilliantly by turning the previous plastic bolt into bushings. Otherwise the damper would rattle with too much play. Since nothing of this is adressed in the manufacturers instructions you wonder what they were thinking. Changed the damper in90 min. Once again thanks

@twotone3070 4 года назад

Thank you. To be honest I did read about the problem in a comment on someone else's video, but until I performed the repair myself I didn't understand the significance of what they had said. I just had the opportunity to incorporate a solution into a video in the hope it would help someone.

@pohutukawa2346 5 лет назад

Thanks for this video. I faced precisely the same situation (except for my replacement shocks which were slightly different) with the white manufacturer pins, etc. Followed the same path as you down to drilling out etc. I found cutting with the hacksaw blade too difficult upside down so flipped the machine over. Tomorrow I'll do a load of towels and see what difference it's made but it's bound to be better as the original shocks were as shot as yours! Too bad a plastic pin is used for securing these shocks to the drum housing. They should all be relatively easy to remove, even if they are plastic. Thanks again for the video-much appreciated!

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

My pleasure. I hope the test goes well.

@pohutukawa2346 5 лет назад

It did! Little bit of knocking, but banging at start/end of spin has basically gone!@@twotone3070

@bikenut7777 4 года назад

Thank God for this video! I don't know how I would have managed otherwise. Assuming you can even understand them, there's no way to follow the Bosch instructions without removing the entire front of the machine. Furthermore, as others have mentioned, the replacement shock kit is missing two essential bushings. And who has a 13.2 mm drill bit anyways? Twotone's procedure works very well. No more clunking.

@twotone3070 4 года назад

Thanks, pleased it was useful, makes it worthwhile.

@luispaquete5581 4 года назад

Thank you very much for this video - I'm from Lisbon, Portugal, and you saved my day with my Siemens machine. I followed a slightly different approach, drilling in through the plastic pin (with a 10mm drill, as I couldn't find any 13,2mm one ;-) - removing the rubber rings and piercing the (now thinner) walls of what remains of the hollow plastic pin with a screwdriver and a hammer. Tried to saw as you showed but was too difficult due to the other plastic around the pin. The instructions that come with the absorber are simply horrible so again thank you very much for this !!!

@twotone3070 4 года назад

My pleasure, I'm pleased you managed to get the job done. Thank you for letting us know of your success.

@juliansmith4570 4 года назад

Thanks for video job completed, its a bit of a fiddle sawing them out but I also used a Dremmel and cutting wheel which did half the job and got the rubber bushes out of the way. Just got the element to fit and should be good for a few more years, 16 so far.

@twotone3070 4 года назад

This is what we want to hear, just reaching it's prime then. I've not had to do an element yet, did the pump a few years ago before I started videoing anything and everything. Thanks for letting us know of your success.

@mpourkoulas 2 года назад

Thanks a lot for this video, i face the same problem with a pitsos vario 600 machine. EVERY video i watched refered to the case with a removable safety pin. I was suspecting that it needs drilling, unluckuly. Now i ll fix it just fine...

@twotone3070 2 года назад

Good luck with your repair, thank you for your comment.

@Italos1234 3 года назад

Thank you very much for this video, it's really great, very analytical, what i was searching to change absorbers to a Bosch Maxx WFL 1660 washing machine. They have exactly the same mechanism. Greetings from Greece!

@twotone3070 3 года назад

My pleasure, I hope you are able to get the parts and get it done easily. Many thanks for taking the time to let me know, it is really appreciated.

@ivorbj7741 Год назад

Brilliant video, thank you. You've given me the courage to do the work on mine. Super job - thanks again

@twotone3070 Год назад

My pleasure, hope it goes well. There are other ways of doing it, this is just what I did.

@lebowsky11 5 лет назад

Nice job,thanks a lot,very helpful,it took me to long to see that i can't remove the plastic pins.i'd like to say that all this job could be avoided if Bosch had do a good job on this point.I replaced shock absorbers at a Philco in real 10 minutes.Anyway,thanks again...

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

Thanks, my pleasure and I think you are quite right.

@jamespassas9441 Год назад

That's exactly what I did, I made a sleeve out of the old hollow plastic peg so the bolt fitted snugly in the larger hole.

@twotone3070 Год назад

As has been commented here, it's not what they expect you to do. But I feel it's a good engineering solution to support the bolt fully over as much of the length as possible to restrict movement, as there are such large forces at work. It's not in the interests of the manufacturers or professional repairers to spend extra time doing it, they have a cost factor to take into consideration.

@jamespassas9441 Год назад

@@twotone3070 I think it's interesting that we both came up with the same solution to stop the bolt from wobbling in the hole! And like you, I also fitted the newer type of replacement shocks which are actually little pneumatic shock absorbers, rather than the original square section friction type. I think the proper shock absorbers work better. However, to saw the old peg at both ends, I used my oscillating saw (also made by Bosch!) rather than an old hacksaw blade, and this blade is also thinner. The oscillating saw cut through the pegs faster, as you'd expect! It seems like a very strange idea to have the shock absorber pegs moulded into the tank, although I can see how this could make factory assembly quicker...

@jamespassas9441 5 месяцев назад

So is yours still going strong? Mine's still working perfectly, even though it's now 22 years old! I've changed the shock absorbers (obviously!), the brushes (twice), the soap tray, & the pump, but other than that all bits are still original!

@1962LGBelg 4 года назад

dear Twotone, I'm from Belgium and have exactly the same problem (machine shaking heavily and going for a walk when starting to dry-spin after wash cycle) and the same model of shock absorbers that are mounted also exactly the same way (meaning harder to replace on the side of the drum). Mine is a Siemens Extraklasse XLM 130A (E-nr WXLM130AFG) which also 2 absorbers. * ADDENDUM * (a few days later after fixing my washing machine) : - The official spare part reference for the absorbers is 11030890. On internet available through different channels. - I was able to fix the old, original absorbers: removed back panel, tilt machine on its side, remove bottom plate, unscrew bottom bolt (13mm) of absorbers, slide out inner half from absorber (! outer half remains fixed to drum !), clean old grease and remove broken worn out plastic particles. Cut out from new thick and hard felt (4mm thick felt - available in any DIY - felt is what I use under poles of antique wardrobes to protect the wooden floor from imprint ) per absorber 2 rectangular shapes (about 2 by 3cm) that fits in the plastic frames on both sides of the inner half of the absorber. Grease well (I used Lithium grease) and slide in again to mount the absorbers. IMPORTANT TO TEST: You must fell a good resistance when sliding in and out the absorber. That is its function. Assembled everything back in. EUREKA: machine now running as new: ran 5 full cycles and washing machine no longer shaking when starting its dry-spin cycle at 1300rpm. My wife is happy! ;-)

@twotone3070 4 года назад

I'm sorry I didn't see your comment until now. It is interesting to see that you found a very inventive way to repair the machine, I take my hat off to you. Did you record the process?

@1962LGBelg 4 года назад

@@twotone3070 Hi again, about 4 months later now and my workaround - as explained here in my previous comment - did not hold much longer: my Siemens XLM 130A starts shaking again..... So this time I purchased two new solid 90N dampers - compatibles as Twotone used - that arrived today. Convinced that this time fix will be much more robust and solid. JOB DONE!! new shock absorbers installed , followed exactly the Twotone repair instructions from this video and it worked out great! Perhaps useful extra info: I also removed the back panel (12 Torx screws) which made it possible to drill out the 8mm hole from behind, using my DIY drill machine and a 25cm long 8mm-drill. Thanks for your video!

@twotone3070 4 года назад

@@1962LGBelg That's a long drill bit :) Thanks for letting us know how it went and pleased you've fixed it.

@K1bkc 5 лет назад

You make it look so easy! Ready to work on mine now ;-) Thank You!

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

It really is that simple if you have the tools and a little bit of patience, good luck.

@stevealdridge1919 10 месяцев назад

Great informative video, many thanks. Saved me £400 on a new machine, cheers.

@twotone3070 10 месяцев назад

I'm pleased it has helped. Thank you for letting me know.

@jonnewcomb 5 лет назад

I've got my damper on order.. in the meantime I found the loud clicking noise during spin could eliminated by sliding a spacer inside both dampers. I cut out a square from a plastic milk bottle, folded it over on itself a few times and slid it into the gap in the damper. Push it down as far as you can using pliers for extra grip. Cable tie to secure. All you have to do it tip the machine on its side and access from underneath, no screwdriver needed.. comment here if this helps..

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

Interesting workaround. I'd be careful with the water inlet hose when tipping the machine on its side, especially if you have pulled the hose tighter and therefore less able to rotate. Last thing you'd want is to split the hose at the back of the machine because it won't rotate. I disconnected mine, but if you were just doing a 'quick' job someone may be tempted to leave it connected.

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

Have you managed to get the job done yet?

@jonnewcomb 5 лет назад

@@twotone3070 Yes, all sorted, what a difference! No lurching or loud clicking during fast spin. The original dampers had failed before I inherited the machine. On inspection they are not good quality. Plastic and flimsy. Sad because the rest of the machine is solidly engineered. My neighbours below are forever grateful.. Thanks..

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

@@jonnewcomb Excellent, it's so satisfying to keep something working with just a bit of effort. :)

@1962LGBelg 4 года назад

@@jonnewcomb @Twotone Hi Jonathan and Twotone, today I managed to fix te original square-like dampers on my 15 year old Siemens XLM 130A. Flicked the machine on its side, took bottom plate off and unscrewed (13mm) one side of dampers (the side that is fixed to chassis). Slid out the inner part of the damper. Barings were totally gone (no resistance at all). Cleaned and removed worn out vinyl-like part, then fixed per damper on each side two rectangular rigid felt pieces that I cut from a larger felt plate (kind that you slide under furniture poles). Lubricated well with lithium-grease. Slide the 2 parts together and felt much more resistance when shifting in and out the dampers. Remounted all again and since machine has done 3 full cycles, including dry-spinning at 1300rpm ... AND NO MORE SHAKING AND LOUD NOISES !!! My wife tells me machine runs as new. I am a happy man (so far). Corona lockdown made me do this. FYI: Called Siemens repair and would have cost me more than 300 Euros to get the dampers replaced! See how long it will last. If not long, I will replace dampers as per two tones video instructions....

@spannerssockets6308 2 года назад

Stupid idea by Bosch for a damper mount. Have recently done the same job and have had a look on here to see how others have done it. I'd tried pushing the peg out but then decided to use a wood tenon to cut the peg as in this video. When I couldn't get the front end tapped out, I drilled it. I hadn't realized the peg was integral with the casing. Dampers will fail so Bosch should have used a removable peg.

@twotone3070 2 года назад

I agree. There must be some cost saving advantage to this method.

@antoinebraire 4 года назад

Hello, your video is really helpful ! I followed and I am very satisfied with the results. Thanks ! Alain, (from Paris)

@twotone3070 4 года назад

Thank you, I'm pleased it was useful.

@adamsala9291 11 месяцев назад

Thank you 👍

@jimbob036 4 года назад

I used my Bosch vibrating saw to cut the plastic pin in my machine, much easier than using a hacksaw blade!

@twotone3070 4 года назад

It certainly would be, not something I have though. :)

@jamespassas9441 Год назад

@@twotone3070 Ahh, you should get one, it's such a versatile tool! Dremel (part of Bosch) also make a version.

@jamespassas9441 5 месяцев назад

@@twotone3070 Ah, you should get one! There's also a Dremel version, & numerous other copy-cat brands now...

@TheEDDmaster Год назад

You don’t do it this way you remove the front panel of the appliance you use a 13 mm drillbit to drill out the centre of the tub lugs which holds the original damper in place, it’s very simple

@twotone3070 Год назад

You can to it this way, I just proved it on video. You can do it anyway you like.

@gonzalomartinez1630 2 года назад

Bravo

@twotone3070 2 года назад

Muchas gracias

@ricabailey1646 Год назад

Confuaed re top bolt, appears to fasten with allen key but what on other end?

@twotone3070 Год назад

Sorry I've been away and only just seen your comment, have you sorted it? The new bolt has an M8 nut at the other as I recall, it's been several years since I did this and I no longer have the machine. I think I show the kit of parts at some point.

@jeanyves5380 Год назад

I! Jean-Yves From france! You helped me but it's very tought! I'v got the same problem: This is bullshit! Well plastic dust with metal saw? Not even sure it'll be possible on my model. What i'm sure of : it's the same type of original ankle: it looks the same for sure. Even if my model is different: it's a Siemens WM12E363FF, not a bosch but in each side it has the same shape. Well for now the solution has been to first saw the shock absorber itself in the other side. Ok i think i understand : on the repair kit they tell to drill at Diameter 13.5 millimeters. There's not either way if we want to pass the new ankle which is rather different. The only thing is we must care to not to damage the the tank parts. I've not got that bit's size for now : need to buy again! 😮‍💨

@twotone3070 Год назад

You should only need to drill out to 13.5mm if the part you are putting back is that diameter. If the bolt that you are putting back is different then drill out to that size, it will be more secure.

@jeanyves5380 Год назад

@@twotone3070Thank's for your answer. I drilled at 13 mm and no problem. On the second one i just drilled at 13, no cutting like on your model and that was enought. And it just permits to keep a shock absorber clean as a model for the next time eventually. On this machine model there is just enought place to do things, i was even afraid the bit could go askew.

@alexwatson2783 5 лет назад

My very similar washing machine (Classixx 6 1200 express 2010) is making a loud banging noise on spin! On opening it up, it appears to be the front drum weight banging on the front metal.. lots of movement back and forth, appears to be the shock absorbers as weights, bearings etc seem fine.. I was just wondering if yours made a similar noise?? I'd love to fix this myself with the help of your vid!

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

Sorry initially mis-read your reply. It could do, it jumped around a lot when the spin cycle started, this may have abated as the speed got up, but not always and the spin would slow down to retry. You could easily check if it's the shocks by just releasing the lower support from the chassis and seeing if the shock moves too easily.

@twotone3070 5 лет назад

How did you get on?

@alexwatson2783 5 лет назад

@@twotone3070 Turned out to be an internal part behind bearing that fractured, or something like that.. not worth replacing apparently so got a shiny new one... Thanks for help anyway!!!

@roberthorton2714 2 года назад

Very good video.Do you have a link to purchase this kit.Many thanks

@twotone3070 2 года назад

Is yours this exact model?

@twotone3070 2 года назад

My machine has broken irreparably (see newer video) and I have harvested the parts. The shocks are just over 2 years old. I bought mine from espares but they don't appear to do this version now.

@redcoat192 3 года назад

Great video I followed it through! I've come to a problem that you might be able to help me with! What were the dimensions of the replacement screws in your spares pack? My pack came with 2 plastic plugs instead of nuts and bolts and like your machine mine has a moulded to the drum head which looks like it will interfere with the new plug!?

@twotone3070 3 года назад

Thanks. I've noticed from a cursory search that the majority of repair kits are with plastic pegs now, it must be cheaper, but you need a drill bit large enough to make the hole. Our machine is in use at this precise moment, so to get a length measurement I will need to wait. The diameter is 8mm, although it would need to be what ever size drill you use to drill out the peg, to get a nice close fit. Anything you see as long enough to go through all of the parts and into a Nylock nut would be sufficient. You will need some form of locking on the nut because of the vibration. I'll repost when I've looked inside. Okay... the bolts are 60mm long.... BUT .... you will need quite a deep 8mm socket to hold the nut still as the bolt extends through more than it needs, I used a box spanner to reach in for the final tighten. So I would suggest 55mm.

@redcoat192 3 года назад

@@twotone3070 thank you for that info! Very kind indeed! Best Wishes

@pietvandermeer9405 3 года назад

Hi, thanks for that - just wondering: wouldn't it have been easier to use the one bearing (edit: bushing) rather than drilling out the peg instead?

@twotone3070 3 года назад

It's a while since I did it and I'm not quite sure what you mean? I only drilled out the centre of the fixed part of the peg to get the M8 bolt through. The pointy, none fixed end of the peg slides out after you have cut it and wouldn't stay in place anyway. Early on I incorrectly guessed about the purpose of the metal bushings if you mean those, I just didn't edit it out in the final cut. Here to help if I can.

@pietvandermeer9405 3 года назад

@@twotone3070 Indeed, I should have said 'bush(ing)' instead of 'bearing' (as mentioned around 5:20). To me it seems you just create your own bushing from the drilled peg and use it in lieu of the supplied metal one - but maybe I misunderstood this. Were the metal bushings used at all?

@twotone3070 3 года назад

I see why the confusion now, I didn't show the bushings being put in, not very good instructions :( . At 13:01 you just get a quick glimpse of the lower shock being put in place and you can then see that I've pushed the bushings into the shocks rubber housing to hold the bolt in place in there. At 4:52, on the brief fitting instructions it shows them being fitted like that. I suppose the video, apart from a generic view of how to do it, only really works if you have the exact same kit, but I believe this may not be available. Hope this helps. Sorry for the delay, but I don't get notifications of comments beyond the initial comment left and have to remember to trawl through all of the comment threads for every video, not really very helpful.

@pietvandermeer9405 3 года назад

@@twotone3070 Very enlightening - thanks! I think I have a better picture now. Possibly washers help keeping the 8mm bolt in place (can't really see whether they are locked in place somehow) in the 13mm holes from the outside (one that is to be drilled as per the instructions and the one that kept the peg in place). Previously I assumed that this solely was the job of the bushings (that may still have this purpose in case they would fit into the13.2mm holes from the inside - which in your case does not apply of course). In that case, the drilled-out remains of the peg would strictly not be needed but they do strengthen the construction I suppose. That would also explain why they are not part of the official instructions. I am still wondering why a 13.2mm hole is to be drilled where a 8mm hole would do though-prob. It is just because it is easier to drill in the right place.

@twotone3070 3 года назад

On your last point, perhaps the instructions were written for a replacement 'plastic peg' kit, but have been put on an 'M8 bolt' kit? Given the high loads on the shocks during the start of a spin cycle, IMO you would have to have the bolt extremely tight to stop it being moved if you don't put in the extra homemade spacer. As you know a washing machine is quite heavy and most of this is the weight attached to the drum and that's before adding water. Certainly having a replacement peg makes it easier, no bushing needed in the kit or homemade...... but you do need a 13.2mm drill which is a smidge over 1/2", so by the time you've butchered the hole a bit, maybe it fits. I had a bolt so solved it using what I was given. Thanks for your thoughts.

@cal87249 3 года назад

Why you cut the locking stuff plastic?

@twotone3070 3 года назад

If you are replacing the existing plastic pin with M8 bolts then you will need a bushing to take up the space between the inside diameter of the hole left by the existing moulded plastic pin and the outside diameter of the M8 bolt. If you are replacing it with another plastic pin then you will not need to.

@damqnstefanov4977 4 года назад

Tank youuuuuuuuuu

@skservices5398 6 месяцев назад

Thank you sir i from india

@twotone3070 6 месяцев назад

My pleasure.

@neilcase 4 года назад

Maybe I missed it, but I couldn't see any mention of where you obtained the repair kit. Could you post a link? Ta

@twotone3070 4 года назад

It would depend on which country you are in. I got mine from www.espares.co.uk/ and this is the part I used "2 x Bosch Washing Machine Shock Absorber Kit for WFO2466GB/07 (ES543628)" BUT ...... make sure it is the correct one for your machine. I of course, MAY have got the wrong one, but it seems to have solved the problem.

@neilcase 4 года назад

@@twotone3070 I am also in UK. espares is a truly appalling website. I found 'compatible washing machine shock absorber' pair for about £13 but doesn't look as though they come with bolts and I couldn't verify model. Any chance you could post a direct link?

@neilcase 4 года назад

@@twotone3070 I just searched on the part number that you gave and it tells me it is discontinued :-(

@twotone3070 4 года назад

@@neilcase Yes, that is unfortunate that they have changed things. As you say here are the ones with no bolts but plastic pegs, another commentor says they have used something that sounds similar to that, but not how they did it. I only pointed towards the epares site because they are the ones I used, obviously I couldn't comment on any others. I'm sure if the pegs don't suit, a couple of nylock nuts and bolts from a hardware store would do the job, I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.

@jaycole3768 Год назад

Where did you get the kit?

@twotone3070 Год назад

I bought mine from espares but they didn't appear to do this version the last time I looked. I do have that set recovered from the machine after it irrevocably died of drum failure.

@sneekmatrix 4 года назад

Can you advise me where you purchased the shock absorbers and type?

@twotone3070 4 года назад

Which country are you in?

@sneekmatrix 4 года назад

@@twotone3070 uk

@twotone3070 4 года назад

@@sneekmatrix I got mine from www.espares.co.uk/ and this is the part I used "2 x Bosch Washing Machine Shock Absorber Kit for WFO2466GB/07 (ES543628)" BUT ...... make sure it is the correct one for your machine. I of course, MAY have got the wrong one, but it seems to have solved the problem.

@TheBobbybignuts 3 года назад

@@twotone3070 says part is now discontinued

@twotone3070 3 года назад

Yes that does seem to be the case. I suppose there is nothing stopping you from getting one with a plastic peg and using that, the removal process would be the same. You just need to get enough of the fixed end of the peg removed to get the new peg installed. You could get 2 M8 bolts and Nylock nuts instead of using the new pegs.

@kni78 4 года назад

Hello! Before laying on its side, did you lock the drum?

@twotone3070 4 года назад

Not sure I understand what you mean by "Lock the drum". Do you mean from rotating or falling?

@kni78 4 года назад

From falling.

@twotone3070 4 года назад

@@kni78 On my particular model the drum is held in place by large springs at the top. The shock absorbers are there to slow the rate of travel when the drum starts vibrating, they don't actually hold the drum up. I did find that with them removed and the machine on it's side, the drum rests against the back panel and you have to wedge something behind it to realign damper fixing positions, but it's only 30mm at most and easily done. There is a very small bit in the video of me placing a craft knife sideways to do that, but it may not be obvious what I'm doing. One of the problems with doing it on camera is that you are thinking about 2 things at the same time and I don't always manage to say the right things. :)

@kni78 4 года назад

Ok! Got your point! Your video is very helpful! Just to mention here that there are rebuild kits now available (probably not on sale at the time you made the video) that essentially replace the bottom part of the absorber (top part remains untouched). I am waiting for these to arrive 😁

@twotone3070 4 года назад

@@kni78 I certainly wasn't aware of them, thanks for making that known. Let us know how you get on with them.

@adamsala9291 Год назад

Where can you buy the suspension please 🙏

@twotone3070 Год назад

Which country are you in?

@adamsala9291 11 месяцев назад

@@twotone3070 thank you for your reply! I have purchase it on Ebay! anyway I put like on your video keep up the good work thanks. 👍

@laverdajota8089 4 года назад

Little tip , whilst at this stage , why not take motor off to give more space , fit some new brushes in motor whilst your at it , just a thought ps What an idiot design , all you need was two dedicated bolts and nylocs as OE , save all this trouble with cutting etc . This design would be ok if they were quality shocks fitted as OE

@twotone3070 4 года назад

Thanks for the comments. I suspect the moulded peg and clip design was for ease of manufacture, they don't really want many people repairing then.

@milk2sugarsplz 4 года назад

Very long winded way of doing it, the correct way is too drill the pins out with a drill bit 1mm wider than the pins. To do this you remove the front of the machine. No need to tip on its side.

@royannbailey6810 3 года назад

Is that really easier, it seems more potential to damage something.

@twotone3070 3 года назад

I'm assuming you have a different machine and repair kit. An 8mm bolt is going to rattle around a bit in a 14mm hole.

@milk2sugarsplz 3 года назад

@@twotone3070 I'm a white goods engineer of 16 years. Trust me, my way is the correct way. The new suspension dampers are supplied with metal bungs and bolts to allow for a snug fit after drilling out the old pegs. The instructions even mention drilling out the pegs so I'm not even sure why you've chosen this method.

@jamespassas9441 Год назад

@@milk2sugarsplz Why drill such a big hole in the plastic though, when the bolts are only 8mm thick? If you leave more plastic on the support, it will be stronger.

@milk2sugarsplz Год назад

@jamespassas9441 the new suspension kit comes with metal bushes to accommodate the smaller diameter bolts.