After being notified by a subscriber that I neglected to add the kitchen sink in the total fixture units- an error I will forever be haunted by- I made just a couple of edits.
Thank you! I need to do some more videos now that I'm not teaching this summer. I'll try to keep these down to a few minutes- kind of hit specific code topics.
What type of educational video were you looking for, and for what reason? In other words, I'm just curious if it's for an apprenticeship, a company, or any other similar.
The very reason these videos began was for distance learning during covid. With that said, if you can use it to train others, be my guest. I'd consider it a privilege if you used it. Email me gorhambm@outlook.com if you have further requests. Thanks for asking permission, but you really didn't have to.
Im plumbing aprendice and all I can say thank you. Great videos👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 , a lot useful info. Thank you soo much, for you time, and explained to us . I'm planning to make my test for plumbing next year 👍 I Will watching all your videos ,👏
BG - I'm not a plumber. I'm a lay tenant. I have two questions: A. Moen claims their discontinued 1960 Moen 2215 Single Handle 1225 Cartridge Non-Pressuring-Balance Valve will discharge 10-GPM maximum of hot and cold water @ 120-PSI from the Moen tub-spout and 8-GPM maximum (12.35% less) of hot and cold water @ 120-PSI from the shower-arm (only 2.5-GPM hot and cold from a showerhead rated such). B. Per the 2022 UPC (Section 610.3, Table 610.3, and Appendix A), I made the below Hunter's Curve calculations for our 8-Unit 1906-built but 1960s-1970 upgraded fixtures Apartment: 1. 87.50-WSFUs for 36 Fixtures (8 of which are bathtubs/showers) 2. 87.50-WSFUs converts to 40 GPM (rough estimate) 3. 300-GPH Hot Water Tank C. Is the 10-GPM flow rate correct based on a 40-GPM water supply -- but only for the cold water supply, for up to 4 of the 8 tub-spouts at the same time (10 x 4 - 40-GPM)? D. Is the 8-GPM flow rate incorrect based on the 300-GPH Hot Water Tank -- only 5 of the tub-spouts, only 5 of the shower-arms, or any 5-combination out of 8 (8 X 5 - 40-GPM)? I assumed I can't convert the 4-WSFU assigned to each bathtub/shower into a 4-GPM hot and cold flow rate for each -- correct? Thanks! I hope you can answer my lay (non-plumber) questions.
The 1 1/4” main for that small residential house is a bit insane lol even though it’s code you’ll never ever see anything more than 3/4” around here where I live
When distance forces smaller diameters to increase velocity, it shortens the life of piping and fixtures. Pressures don't change, just the force (thumb over the hose - so to speak).
@@BGsPlumbingClass yes I am well aware it’s also diminishing returns the pressure drop is felt all around the house when you open multiple fixtures I was just saying it’s unfortunate nobody knows how to size mains we do it properly in my company though
There is a current push to re-evaluate the whole sizing parameter. With all the advances in water restrictive fixtures and materials, many believe the methods that have been used for decades are outdated.
@@BGsPlumbingClass I am from NJ and we use the NSPC it’s not great for water sizing the UPC is better method in my opinion I use it to size small commercial buildings and moderate size we also use it to size the water service into the building I never have any issues but the residential plumbing companies around me often just put what’s there back and it’s usually 3/4”! And then folks add 2 Bathrooms and a sprinkler system and wonder why the showers have no pressure lol
I was wondering about the F.U count of 3 for kitchen/dishwasher on the hot side. My original understanding was that it would only be 1.5 because it says kitchen, domestic with or without dishwasher. Could you clarify this for me? Thank you so much for these videos!
Great videos, thank you! but where you marked three on the hot water line for kitchen sink and dishwasher wouldn't it still be 1.5. They share the same line at that section. That's how they do it in the upc study guide.
In a residential setting. The set up in my video was for an independent line feeding the dishwasher. If you wanted to get really technical in sizing out the water system- which I never covered- you would take 75% of the value of the fixture for the hot sides.
Great video! Need to fix an error. The “20 FU’s” going to the laundry and the water heater includes 11 FU’s for the laundry and should only be 5.5. You doubled it through the water heater.
I understand your question- which is one often asked in class. But regardless of where the clothes washer or any other hot fixture is located, you still have to count the 14.5 units routing through the tank so the count is still 20. I get the confusion so I will work on a video showing the differences in water heater locations to show more of this scenario.
@@BGsPlumbingClassif you count the whole 20, you are taking two fixtures with a total FU value of 5.5, and giving it 5.5 for hot, and 5.5 for cold, and assigning pipe sizing data for double the fixtures’ FU value. Your video was awesome. Loved it. I’m better off for watching it! It’s just this one little piece that seems contradictory to your earlier lav sink example in the same video. So, earlier in the class, you drew only two lavs, and a water heater. There was a total of 4 FU’s, when considering HOT and COLD. But since the total FU value of those two lavs was 2, regardless of hot or cold, the supply line was just sized for 2. The number 20, includes the 9.0 from downstream, which is not related to my question. Let’s eliminate it for purposes of this question. The 20 now becomes 11. If this laundry sink at 1.5 and this “auto washer”😂 (awesome by the way). At 4.0, totaling 5.5, were the only fixtures in this building, why does the main supply for this branch have 11.0 (double the FU’s) as the pipe sizing factor, since the total fixtures on this branch, only have a value of 5.5? These two things seem like the same scenario, but with different values. How is it different?
This portion of the sizing is never the easiest concept to explain. It is tough to explain this through a reply. Could you email me at gorhambm@outlook.com and we can set up a short video conference?
Great videos, thank you! but where you marked three on the hot water line for kitchen sink and dishwasher wouldn't it still be 1.5? They share the same line at that section. That's how they do it in the upc study guide.
I should do another video that isn't really related to the class I taught at the time. You are correct, but in this case we had installed a separate dishwasher (Commercial) which was a stand alone.
Great question! I never did quite explain that. It is counted. When we did the total fixture unit value we came up with 24.0 F.U. and that was at the 42:30 mark. I know I forgot the kitchen sink but the note explains that (hazards of not initially knowing how to edit). So the total demand of 24 is never surpassed especially after calculating the alternate routing of fixture demand through the water heater. Once 24 is reached, that is the largest size and the largest demand. I plan on doing another sizing exercise soon- maybe this weekend- and hopefully it is a bit more clear, you'll have to let me know. Also at 1:05:15 I should point out that the value is 24 not 22.5 (again kitchen sink).
great videos ....I am in WA state have to take state test to renew journeyman card any videos specific to water and waste sizing on state test?........thank you
I'm not familiar with the Washington State Recertification test, but I am sure you'll do fine! If there are any drawings concerning sizing just remember to go through the steps, don't look at the whole of the system but one pipe at a time, and on waste systems it is all about the notes. You totally got this!!!
By total developed length I assume you mean the longest distance between the water meter and the most remote fixture. Is this separate for hot and cold water or the same for both (max of hot/cold)? Sometimes the water heater is in a remote location such that the pipe has to run to and back from. Thanks.
Yes, the distance the water has to travel from the meter through any piping to get to the fixture is the total distance. More often than not, it is going to take you through the water heater.
Absolutely! But if you think about it, the way the two water closets differ in the use makes sense right? A typical flush tank style has the volume already stored up in the tank and the design of the bowl is such that siphonage is what makes it work. The flushometer type work on volume and flow to pretty much push it out, which means you need that large amount all at once- and there is no storage tank to hold it. Side note: the Sloan Flushometer was first patented in 1906! Same design today!
It's an isometric template by rapidesign. You can get it on Amazon. I got mine in the days before technology and had to go into an actual store- dates me a bit.
@@BGsPlumbingClass Thank you so much, you make those drawing look so easy. By the way I really enjoy watching your videos they helped so much when I was studying for my journeyman license exam. Which I passed thanks again
Truthfully, once you reach your Fixture unit goal- in this case 24 fixture units- there is no need to proceed with any size above 1 1/4. The right thing to do at that point is to strike a line or put N/A. You are correct in that placing a number in the spot does nothing. In order for 1 1/2 copper to get that number through a 3/4 meter, you would need to increase the velocity to well above 8 fps- which would burst your system eventually. Good observation!
@@BGsPlumbingClass wouldn’t hurt. I think you dropped a thought there. I was able to figure it out using a study guide, and have since passed the test. I was actually thinking about making a video about this.
Absolutely! As long as it is correct, you should! It hurts my soul when I see videos of plumbing that isn't correct. Even more so when I post a video and realize later, that I forgot the kitchen sink.... UGH
The 2015 Michigan Plumbing Code does not use the Fixture unit calculations and only provide GPM and pressure requirements. How do you calculate utlizing these items only? Also Chapter sx is completely different.
In the UPC, Appendix A goes over the steps to take in sizing a system out using gallons per minute and friction loss. I did a video a few months ago covering that, but I gotta admit it isn't the best video. I need to do another one. The interesting thing is the Tables referenced in our Chapter 6 seen in this video was calculated and created using the "engineered" method from that appendix- which sounds like your method.
Great video. However, as simple as it may be, it's still about as clear as mud! Can you provide a step by step guide (in order of importance) to clarify please. I'm a 5th year apprentice and am testing for my journeymans test in a few months. I've never encountered this in the field. I'm also wondering how you apply this method in a commercial multi story building? Thanks again and I look forward to your reply.
I will do another sizing video soon and explain step by step how to size it out. I'll edit in some text or something. I'm a plumber, not a youtuber, so hopefully it'll be okay. Also, the method of sizing a large commercial building will be done using Appendix A of the UPC- at least here where I reside. Where are you (general geographic terms)?
@@BGsPlumbingClass I am located in Minneapolis, MN. I'm in an apprenticeship training program. The video you made does provide some clarity and it's greatly appreciated. However, myself and others that I've shared the video with are still confused about how it all takes place in a step by step manner that starts with sizing from the main and meter to the individual branches and fixtures. The hose bibs, water closets and flush meters / valves.
@@krmiller007 So you are using the Minn plumbing code which is still the 2015 version? If so it was adopted using the 2012 UPC- which has a slightly different take on sizing a water system. I will make a video specific to you guys if I am correct in the above guess. Please let me know if that is the current approved code you are using.
If you want the Uniform Plumbing Code, you can purchase it on Amazon. If there is a specific Code for your location, you could look that up as well and easily- in most cases- purchase on line. If that doesn't work there are plumbing supply houses that carry code editions. It really does depend on your location though.
If I understand the question, you want to know why the change in elevation is divided by two, not the developed length. In each foot of elevation the pressure drops .43 psi, which is close to half a pound. According to chapter 6 of the UPC, we round the figure up to .5 which means in 10 feet of rise we lose 5 pounds of pressure.
