Thanks for this video. I alway feel like there’s so much I should know and be able to do quickly. But really you show how it works for many of us to do a project, it takes time.
You need to check and make sure you are not overcharging the battery when running at throttle, what the call regulators are actually only a rectifier and will throw out over 16v 1/4 throttle to full out.
Thanks for showing us how you did it! Very neat. Have you used it out on the water yet with your fish finder? How fast does it charge your battery? Does it work well enough to power your fish finder?
Good video. Did you have trouble with the two green wires getting tight when you advanced the throttle? I know that bundle of connectors/wires moves with the mag plate as the timing advances.
That was a great video! Good videos on charging a battery from an outboard seem hard to come by so yours is a welcome find. Any chance you could put a link in the description to the rectifier/regulator you purchased? Thank You
This is the rectifier I purchased on eBay. Rectifier Regulator For Yamaha 9.9-25HP 1984-2010 Outboard Motor 664-81970-62 U9 The cost was $15 on EBay. The Yamaha OEM part was $75, so I took a chance on it. I would recommend you search for your motor. I also don’t know if there are differences from the OEM product, so please don’t take my work for it. Thank you for the nice comments. I hope this is helpful. More videos to come, as I play around in my garage.
By the way nice boat. Is that a homebuilt Spira design? Also FYI and not just MHO. Split type lock washers are worthless or even worse. In hi vibration application will actualy loosen the nut. You will NEVER find split type lockwashers in aviation aplications. Best to use Star type lockwasher, Nylon insert locknut, or and blue thread locker ie. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242®
Thank you very much for your help.. I have another engine. evinrude etech 30 hp coils are not receiving energy. We tried 3 ECUs. It is a steering system, but it is not connected to the steering wheel at the moment, we are just connecting the cables to the battery and trying it. They say it will not work without connecting the ignition key. Hello, good day my friend..
hey petro I did an electric start install on a 25 murcury pull start 1980s outbooard, the whole deal, new flywheel ,starter, stator ,ignition, the only thing confusing is the wireing from the stator to the rectifier to charge the battery,think this might have helped thanks
Thanks for watching. I have had no issues with over charging. I run a small fish finder 100% of the time and an occasional bilge pump and lights. I also use a bow mounted trolling motor for fishing (on a separate battery), so the outboard is only running a few hours when I’m out all day. Between the low outboard usage and constant draw from the fish finder, the balance works really well. I never have a dead battery and it’s been running that way for a few seasons with no issues.
How does it stop from over charging? Fish finder can’t be using too much battery power yet motor continues to charge. Will this not over charge battery? You have a sweet boat!
In theory I think you are correct, it could over charge. That bing said I fish with an electric trolling motor (separate deep cycle battery), so the outboard is only used to and from the fishing spot. If I run the motor for more then 30-40min, that would be a very long run for me. I also don’t charge the battery when not in use, so I don’t think I could ever over charge it. I also plan to hook additional components to the battery like lights and charging station for my phone. I’ll try to make another video when I add anything. Thanks for the compliment on the boat. Very fun bucket list project for me!
The regulator ensures the battery won't overcharge. The rectifier converts the three phase stator output to DC for charging, and the regulator regulates the charge rate. Just like your car it pretty much stops charging the battery at any significant rate by about 75% charged. It will never get a battery up to 100%. The sensor wire tells the regulator the voltage of the battery in circuit, the higher that voltage the less current will flow - the lower that voltage the higher the current, up to the maximum possible output of the coils of course... Very simple system. Worth checking if there is any residual AC voltage if you run the system without a battery, as if one or more diodes blow you get unrectified AS voltage across your system. Other than that should be robust and last for years.
This is the rectifier I purchased on eBay. Rectifier Regulator For Yamaha 9.9-25HP 1984-2010 Outboard Motor 664-81970-62 U9 The cost was $15 on EBay. The Yamaha OEM part was $75, so I took a chance on it. I would recommend you search for your motor. I also don’t know if there are differences from the OEM product, so please don’t take my word for it. Thank you for the nice comments. I hope this is helpful. More videos to come, as I play around in my garage.
