Cheap, Easy Power Where You Least Expect To Find It 

That's NOT gray, It's Chrome!

I got lucky and found a slant six 225 in a 1987 dodge ram d100 with only 65,000 original miles

I was born in 76' thank goodness I got to spend 95'&1996 helping Micky Holmes in his fully tooled machine shop in his barn.... He built and operated his machine shop mostly so he could keep his boy on the dirt track... While we were building 390s and 460s Micky filled my head with stories of how he did things back in the day when he had just got back from fighting a war in France. I can imagine how my life would have turned out if it were not for a chance introduction with micky and he told a 19 yr old kid to come back anytime. That goofy kid came back everyday until his was with cancer was finally over...

They a few of us young beards around to that have the knowledge because we grew up around and learned from grey beards like you all lol. Hotrodding It's still alive and well my friend

Fear not Old Head. There’s more of us in the making!

He covered that already. I think the vid was titled "The BS about backpressure".

Why ? Back pressure has a big play on things. Trust me. I’m 30 yrs old now still have my first car. My ‘72 Vette 350 lt1 4spd. When I was 16 I put a 2.5 inch exhaust on it. Straight back, each their own pipe coming from the manifolds no X or H in the middle. Now yeah she sounded good. That grumble.. the pops and bangs were worth it on decel alone. But I lost some down low punch. I could literally feel the difference... oh and the gas mileage went down.. that was noticeable too cus that 4 barrel quadrajet carb was thirsty already. And I barely knew squat about anything back then car wise. So yeah. Back pressure matters bruv. 2.5 inch exhaust an up for big blocks. Keep it 2 and 1/4 or less for small blocks. Real shit I’ve done the tests and have the seat time. If you believe me or not is up to you. I mean I prob wouldn’t believe my dumbass but it’s the truth from my experience.

@@beezy7412 what you experienced makes absolute sense but was due to a lack of proper exhaust scavenging, not backpressure. The crossover is what provides scavenging between two pipes which is why vehicles rarely run truly separate exhaust pipes (and why headers are collected into a single pipe). The exhaust pulse from one side pulls the other along via vacuum. Not quite the same thing that people such as Scotty Kilmer would refer to as "backpressure" which would be described as a certain amount of pressure feeding back into the exhaust that for whatever apparent reason is needed for best running of an engine. A good exhaust system will have tubing that is the appropriate size per the air volume being pumped out and will utilize minimal bends and constrictions so as to allow efficient flow through the exhaust while also having a crossover (if using dual pipes as in a Vette) to allow for proper exhaust scavenging. If a meaningful amount of backpressure is found in the system throughout the RPM range, something was likely not done right. This is as I understand it, anyway.

@@beezy7412 Also, damn good job managing a 72 Vette as your first car. Hope to have one myself one day.

Scavenging is not back pressure. The idea that engines need back pressure is old 1960 technology. Engines need scavenging. Look at 180 degree headers or 8 into one headers. The jump in horsepower and torque is crazy. It's not because of a change in back pressure. It's because the exhaust becomes more efficient.

My dad did it in his Stude him explaining this to me as a kid taught me how length controls airflow in a intake or exhaust and determined powerband and horsepower and torque numbers

Dad used Super Traps on on his Air-Cooled VW Engines.

Yeah most morons will argue "because no backpressure!" Backpressure is created by a restrictive exhaust, which kills performance.

@@Bahlzeron I can't believe people can't comprehend that when you lose the backpressure ,which is what you wanna do, you gotta go thru tuning in your "fuel metering device" again, be it a carb or injection.

I've been telling people for years that street headers (especially shorty headers) are only good for making noise, but I got the same results... nobody listens. They put them on and pretend they're going faster!

@@MrTheHillfolk Well, that is the most common school of thought out there. It's like the old saying, "a lie can travel around the world before the truth can get his shoes tied". Most people know how to tune a carburetor, (or know how to replace jets and turn screws anyway) but they have no idea that exhaust even CAN be tuned. So when they hear, "tune the carb because the exhaust if flowing so much better now", it seems logical.

Whitmer owes me a year of my life back

on a mild built engine it don't matter much street headers are better then stock been proven over and over i want to race him with my 1400 dollar pu i am running just over 700 hp on just pump gas on a stroked 454 but i can add nitro 3 stage plus if u are running a automatic u need to build it makes a big different even with a stock engine like a 02xx trans which is a stock trans but built from factory good to 800 hp stock but easy to build to a 2000 or a 3000 hp trans it pays to know ur shit and how to get this stuff cheap or free like my case. i showed my engine builder the video of him flipping the pistons he laughed at him all he said was that engine will never last this guy builds engine for the big boys . i grew up with the bell family if u know who they are bell helmets and racing gear plus they build engines is what they started with

the best way is to paint each pipe and where the paint stops burning off is where you cut it off

Hey, me too 😁

Did you take the class in CAD (cardboard aided design), I have heard it is really useful

Was your GPA 4.20. . . . .

Hahaha. I think i passed that class too!. Not sure, I forgot

We went from -20 4 days ago to 65 today. My backyard is a swamp... dogs are gonna need baths tonight... LOL

Oooooohh. Scary thought

Freeze plugs are suppose to keep that from happening.😎

100%

Hey, that's how I kept my rambler running in the 1970'S, oh yeah bailing wire and bars leak too.

Michael Haas one or two steps up from a coat hanger and jumper cables the flux core mig welder from harbor freight im pretty sure is what was used make the collector extensions .. Tony never said he was a amazing welder

Looks like chewing gum

Personally, I blame squirrels for John Woodworth.

I am a body man by trade and a airbrush artist I do some engine work I tune and do a lot of different ignition work and carburetor work I have friends that build hemis and Big blocks they help me on engine work I help them on body work and I do not like to half ass body work. I find Tony has very good information that does help a lot of people that don't understand the mechanics of cars. After this post I'm going to find a 1971 383 and I want to build it mild to put in another roadrunner or my 96 Dakota. It will have a five-speed manual transmission. I enjoy watching these videos I don't think my girlfriend enjoys me watching so many but she'll be all right with it. When I took her for a ride in my 71 roadrunner her eyes got big and she just held on to the seat. The last time the car was taken out and Street trim it turned 11:20 s

That would be hugely helpful.

TROLLS If ya don't have them, you're doing something wrong!

@@douganderson7002 Sleep in the doghouse last night or just trolling?

LS 454 swap ?

@@midnightrunner684 No, 5L Cobra Jet.

Good Question for Wednesday night live stream.. if not than Sunday.. 🖒

Are you wanting to remove the emissions systems or repair them? EGR, AIR, EVAP, and catalytic converters can all be removed fairly easily, and usually much cheaper and easier than repairing them. As for the fuel injection systems, it varies greatly depending on what make and model car/truck you have. Most have ways to read codes or "flash" the codes on the check engine light, but the codes will be very generic, so don't just replace whatever part is setting a code. You need to look up diagnostic flow charts and wire diagrams, which is why it's hard to find info, because nobody has time to put that stuff in a chat room, comment section or forum. The best advice I can give you is to search sites like ebay and go to swap meets or auctions and try to find the specific shop manual for the car or truck that you have. Don't just go with generic Motor or Chilton manuals. If you have a Chevy, get a Chevy manual, if you have a Ford, get a Ford manual.

@@livewire2759 its an 83 ford crown vic, I have the manual and I've been looking at doing this for awhile, my problem is I have a very odd duckling setup, as its a very early model with a modified ford cfi, instead of the easier and more common efi system.

@@honeybear2504 I see... well, I'm a GM tech, so you already know more about that car than I do!

Easily made fully automatic. Have the slipper pipe spring loaded with a couple of those damper rods as used on tool box lids and the like. Before a run pull the slipper pipe back to extend the collector and compress the damper rods. Have the slipper pipe hook onto a latch like the sear in a rifle. The latch mechanism has a rod hanging down with a weight on the end. When the car comes off the line the weight swings back and releases the latch. The clever part is it takes several seconds for the damper rods to extend. The collector length change rate can be fine tuned to suit the engine using a spring to slow down the damper rods. As noted in the video a collector that is cut for power off the line doesn't hurt much, if at all, on the top end. So making the collector length variable during a run might not help much. Having it adjustable in the pits between runs to suit track and atmospheric conditions might be the better route to take. This is where you need to have a worksheet with all the car's settings for each run to zero in on what helps or hurts performance.