I might be wrong but.... I think these are rated for 1W. If you put 15V in and output 5v, that is 10v that has to be dissipated, if you multiply that (10v) by the applied current, say 200mA (0.2A) you get power. So in this example 10 * .2 = 2W. Is that not twice what this chip is designed for? I'm still learning, so feedback on my maths would be much appreciated.
according to the datasheet : Line and Load regulation are guaranteed up to the maximum power dissipation of 1.2 W for SOT-223. in any case im trying to see what happens when you reach their limit..how it behaves..
Your calc are right, he almost reached 2W on dissipation, so they are very good (not bad as described instead) keep them working at 1W max dissipation and they will never die. Dissipation is: (Vin-Vout)*I (for whoever don't know that)
I've used this cheap regulator (the 3.3v version) in one my projects , it's a piece of junk !! It ruined my project thanks to it's enormous heat ! I applied 5v input it worked fine for a week ( the temperature was high but seemed to be ok ) and then boom ! It burned down my main IC which was at the top layer of the pcb and has heatsink on it !! ( regulator was on the button layer ) So if you want my advice, never buy cheap components specially for the power unit of your project. The LM1117 is a better choice.
Did you read the application notes where they say that the output capacitor needed to be tantalum? Also, there is built in protection from thermal overload. Plus, it has the be heat sinked properly, which you did not.
do you often see many tantalum capacitors in cheap chinese products?i dont.most of the times cheap ceramic ones.thats what im testing here.cheap chinese regulators to see how they behave..as for the heatsinking i have heatsink at somepoint of the video which i describe as ''some kind of heatsink''in quotes ....i also say that the caps should be closer to the regulator and not with cables.the original ic's have protection, some of the fakes you cant count on it..
i try to use ams1117 5.0 DN711 , i think this serie may fake. İt cant handle one arduino and hc-06 bluetooth. İt warm up quickly and gives directly output voltage. İts broke down my hc-06
i think its fake then..maybe you should measure the current with a multimeter to see what current the arduino and bluetooth consumes together and then decide what regulator to use..
@@electronics4all Both of them max peak 60mA. After bluetooth paired the current drops 30~35 mA. The main dangeroua thing is ams1117 5.0 gives directly input voltage to the output. Thats crazy when you try your circuit on your car :). Normally an ic fail, it cut off the out put :). I decide to use l7805. It seems much safer than ams1117 5.0 dn711.
@@electronics4all if I will sent you a detailed photographs of the main board- like flight controller, all in one - integrated with esc, you will be able to chose something? You can't find normally proper scheme of the bord, they are mostly based on stm 32 chip
Good vid mate I guess if your designing a circuit well below the max specs of this reg then it should be ok... I imaging the 15v max would be a “spike” rating? I don’t know much about these
Los puedo probar sin los capcitores, solo directo el.positivo a la entrada del circuito y negativo a GND del circuito sin componentes para revisar su salida se voltaje
@@electronics4all I can test them without the caps, just direct the positive to the input of the circuit and negative to the GND of the circuit without components to check their output voltage
no.it cant provide the current that xl4015 does. and the voltage input is max 15v. if you require about 200ma at 5v(a little more with heatsink) with an input of 12v then yes..
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