That's a nice rip fence but that price is well over the struggles of a few minor tweaks to the normal one that comes with the saw. Just think how many man hours go into earning that amount of money?
I have to agree. I have a Porter Cable table saw. Paid $500 for it from the big box store. Does great, and actually, that fence is really good. Not AMAZING, but since I totally suck at wood working? Yea, it does a great job. at over $1K for the fence, it is WAY outside the budget.
Yeah I honestly haven't had a lot of issues with my fence. Now if it was a fence that could grip both sides of a full sheet of plywood and hold it while it automatically slides it thru the cut then I'd say "yeah that's worth a grand"
does this work with an outfeed table? my current fence has the outfeed table which is hinged on to the front fence, but since it my fence does not lock to the front rail, the outfeed table is flush to the saw table top with no gap. Im assuming because this locks on the front fence rail there has to be a gap?
I own this fence, and the rubber adjustment wheel is my only complaint about the whole thing. It's really not good for fine adjustments. You can even see in this video how the fence jerks around when he pushes the wheel. Bumping is still my preferred method for micro adjustments. And yes, I know the wheel's friction to the rails is adjustable (I've played with it a lot). The wheel is, however, very nice for sliding/rolling the fence up to stock to avoid blade deflection. I often do this when I have a piece of wood that I want to match the ripped width to. It's a phenomenal fence, and that is truly my ONLY complaint
I certainly get what you're saying. I found the key is keeping the rails and the rubber wheel clean. If it starts to get gunked up with dust (either the wheel or rails), yep it jerks a bit.
Good review Logan. I had looked at Harvey a while back, but their "sales force" is so weak, and only profit motivated I couldn't get any real product info, except what their "too slick ads were selling" I'm a just the facts Ma'am kinda guy, and they ain't that. Functionally the only thing I got was the front and back rails, and my Vega fences already have that,😄 long time. Most everything else is maybe niceties, some it seems you really like, me I was kinda meh, about most of the tall short fence, I've long used a plywood box over my Vega anyhow, and so I have no bottom gap, which is the only reason I'd want the short fence. Vega has micro adjust, and the glass/plastic difference. Really dood did they pay you to say that???? I have been in front of some beat to hail table saws, and never couldn't I see the indicator.
I'll send a few pictures of the heavily used saws in the shop. The plastic indicator and rule are so worn, you cannot read them. Yes, Vega has a micro adjust. However, if I remember correctly, it's a pain in the butt to use. Lock the micro adjust, unlock the fence, turn nuts to move the fence. Seems like this is a much better solution. And no, I've never been paid for a review, nor will I.
I was all "COOL"...wonder if it would work on my saw....then I saw the price and darn near passed out. HOLY WAH, that cost more than half my shop! Yea...nope.
Logan, I have a question about the installation of the Big Eye on my SawStop PCS. Did you just mount the fence into the non-threaded holes of the steel wings? With the mounting holes threaded on the main top, there isn’t a way to tighten the eccentric bolts.
Hello. Thx for this. Do you happen to know if this would fit a Laguna Fusion 2 saw? I'm so sick of dicking about with the fence on this! Grrrr! And... at this price does it come with a free saw? 😆
Nice review, it helped convince me to put one on my S/S PCS 3hp 36 inch with router in right side after the cast iron right wing. , I recently installed the ST 1500 Harvey slider removing the left side extension table and cutting the rail down to fit. The slider is moved flush and this reduced the slider stroke to 36 inches from a max 48. My shop is narrow at 11.5 ft wide so reducing the saw width is a must. I will also be cutting this fence down to fit with slider. I also have the S/S industrial pump lift and it lifts all legs off the floor spins and move like it is on air. I miss my big shop but I am adapting , in my old shop the S/S originally was 52 fence with stationary outfeed table/ work table 6 inch drop down Nordfab duct with jointer on the side.. I used to grumble it was a PIA to walk around. Adapt or die, or maybe just quit woodworking, same thing.
My stock fence had a major problem. The plastic panels on the sides of the fence were not flat. At the far end, they curved outward, causing the wood to bind against the riving knife. And, I had couple of minor problems. The deflection you mentioned when tightening down the fence, and the ruler was inaccurate. So, I was in the market for at least a new fence extender system. But, a new fence system is a bit scary. The biggest question is would it work with my current cabinet saw (Powermatic PM-1000). I read the installation manual, did some measurements on my saw, and on paper it looked like it would. With Harvey, I haven't figured out if their pricing is based on phases of the moon, tidal charts or sunspot activity. I kept checking until the price dropped dramatically and bit the bullet. I am not disappointed. It took me a couple of hours to install, and 10 minutes to get it to within 0.0015 of an inch parallel to the slots on the table. Deflection is gone. And, the ruler is a lot more accurate. I do have to make sure I haven't accidently slid the ruler somehow. The hi/low fence system is an added bonus. A couple of other interesting items to note. First, the underside of the front fence has a t-slot running the entire length. So, it is easy to build jigs to hold things. I'm working on a jig to hold allen keys, riving knives and blade guards (for when not in use). Second, when in the high position, there is a T-slot under the fence. This can be used to hold a table extender.
Logan, thanks for the review. No need to drill holes in your saw to install. The fence guide rails have T-slots that allow the attaching T-bolts to be located in the holes of your saw. Once the included T-bolts are installed, the guide rails just slide into position and the backing nuts are tightened down.
The "fine adjustment" looks pretty un-fine. I often need to adjust my fence in a couple hundredths, but it looks like I'd still need to bump-bump for that amount of refinement, no?
The fine adjustment wheel is actually dialed in really nicely. There's no slack, and really no need to bump adjust since it's so responsive. Your mileage could vary if you're trying to sneak up on a hundreth though.
What did they do to bridge city? From my standpoint, they bought it to keep the business alive, and have actually maintained the quality of tool that John was producing.
@@popularwoodworking I’d disagree about the quality but I’m sure you’d have to back up a sponsor🤣. The designs of the new tools are awful. The thing that really gets me is moving all the jobs to China.
@@butterflywoodworks2374 As an editor, I appreciate my advertisers but will call a spade a spade if the tool sucks. Until last year, John Economaki had continued to design tools for them. I get the overseas manufacturing thing. China will certainly manufacturer top-their tools if you're willing to pay for them. Most people aren't however. I always bring up the point of Woodpeckers ....They manufacture everything in the USA, and people complain non-stop about their prices.
