Chemically dipping a whole 1969 Mercury Cougar to remove all the paint and rust 

How about starting a little channel and letting us follow along?

You gotta do it! I’m curious to see what the base is now that you have a clean body. 2 part primer, then black?

Epoxy primer?

Ko PL

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Someone learned that the hard way. It's bad enough to lift it dry without them, but with all that liquid in it, it would get tweaked pretty badly.

I can imagine that it would probably fold like a mens wallet without them. 🤔

They rinse and then bake it but I can’t imagine they can get all of the acidic residue out of the seams. I’ve heard horror stories so personally I’d avoid this method

Dip it to primer /seal it?

No rinse/neutralizer?

Every area you hit with the pressure wand would be the same areas reached with low pressure media blasting..Without leaving hidden areas (chassis,plenum,rockers)exposed to residual rust,paint,acid.

DEFINITELY SO ....I would never do this Blasting with walnut shells is the best

Lol, like a cheese melt panini. 😅

Yeah. Looks like it would be fun job. Would be for me anyways. . Fantastic job 👏 👍

NOT acid is trapped and will cause rust in between every pinch weld of whole car If you can't dip it in primer you ruin a car this way Lifelong body shop owner 40yrs I've seen the years later effects of this sadly on cars people put BIG bucks in

Just for snicks they should pull out a stripped bicycle from under a car someday. That is if you are referring to Lt. Dangle.

Like all Chemical Dip Processing, a proper Warm Water Rinse, is recommended! Sometimes it's Hot water, and Tipping, Rolling, etc, on something like this, to thoroughly Drain all solutions from the Metal Pockets, even before the Rinse, and again after! Even after the Pressure Wash Spray down.

@@robertweekley5926 yeah I think the issue is that it’s hard to properly rinse between seams, and then on top of that, coating those part’s after. I’d dip parts like fenders and individual panels… but to dip a whole car, unless it could be dipped in primer after, I’d be cautious.

Goes to the same place as EV batteries.

3k flat rate

Even if they dip it in something to neutralize the acid it's still bare metal in every crack and crevice that cannot be painted so basically they ruined the car it will rust badly everywhere you cannot paint Dipping in a vat of primer afterwards would be the only way I would do this Lifelong body shop owner here 40yrs

@@drifter9425 What do you like, media blasting?

It does help! We actually have a pump that circulates the chemicals but I have to remove it everytime we pull a car out

@@minute_of_dangle Hi, what's the chemistry in the container?

Thank you! I really appreciate that. I’m glad you enjoy it! There’s a lot more to come.

The only problem with blasting is it could remove more of the parent material and pitting something you don't want with a car this old.

I'm a collision repair shop owner. I have done my share of restorations throughout my career. I never liked the idea of dipping a body. I have seen the problems with sandblasting. I wondered how well other types of media worked. I've heard of walnut shells, plastic, etc. I have a very nice 67 Camaro that needs a few of the welded exterior panels replaced. The trunk floor has a couple of tiny holes through the metal. Having the innerstructure blasted of any rust and protected before the new sheetmetal is welded on is my plan. I'm not sandblasting it. I'm not dipping it. I'm going to do it with less aggressive media. The back side of door skins present a problem. The enclosed area of the rocker panels, roof structure, and floor bracing also presents a problem for any process except dipping. It's 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other. There are benefits and drawbacks of each method. With 45+ years of experience working with automotive structure and coatings, the cars can be rebuilt better than new. But seldom are. They are slapped together quickly as possible for the sake of the almighty dollar. Whether blasted, chemically stripped, mechanically stripped, or dipped in acid, the end result, after the last polish of the new finish and the final vacuum of the new interior, depends on people who care about the cars, not just the pay. Building a nearly perfect car is hard work. Making excuses for all the flaws is impossible. People want what they pay for. The best you can give them. Build on my friends.

Soda blasting is what I have used for years and it doesn’t warp panels it done correctly

Cars from the ‘60s and ‘70s did not have an anti corosion coating on panels before welding. And even if they did it clearly didn’t help because these cars had rust holes all over before they were 10 years old or so, that is if you lived in a cold/wet climate. You can open the trunk on any original ‘60s/‘70s US build car and you will see some areas (like under the package shelf) that are not even painted, just bare steel right from the factory. Or at least a bad paint coverage. And yes, you can apply a coating after a restoration, just shoot some oily stuff in these places. Plenty products on the market for that.

Thank you! I appreciate that