I hope folks realize that this is a Pontiac 2.5 Iron Duke engine, NOT a Chevy 2.5. They are completely different, unrelated engines. That being said I believe they put non-CCC distributors in the H&X cars so if you can find parts for a late 70s Monza/Citation or a related vehicle you can use one of those distributor to give you a vacuum advance.
303 Nitzubishi I am aware that there are two different 2.5’s and that a vacuum advance distributor exists for this motor. You call also pull a small cap distributer from an amc and jeep. I just haven’t had the need to replace the distributor in the motor it runs fine.
My iron duke has never ran right since being rebuilt. It’s a 88 model with efi. Everything is new including Hall effect switch in distributor. But for whatever reason it bucks and jumps at low rpm. When accelerating and under load it runs great. It’s when your cruising along and kist barely touching the gas pedal that it spits and jumps. I just can’t figure it out. It’s like it needs a fuel air mixture adjustment but you can’t hook a computer to them and do that like newer stuff. I’ve tried different injectors and even a new throttle body. No luck. It is bored 40 over so the displacement is larger now so I dunno if that may be why . I’m fed up though And yes I’ve checked timing many times and ground the system with a paper clip like manual says to do
It’s def the increased displacement.. those old tbi ecms barely ran right completely stock.. the littlest thing will run havok with there tune .. newer efi adjusts and has some give.. the computer will compensate.. those older obd 1 gm computers sucked… Iv found fords the be way ahead back then
@@slayerofsouls1182 yea I totally agree. I did put a new idle air control valve on the throttle body and that did help quite a bit. It’s still not a smooth runner like it was when my dad bought the truck new in 88 but it’s better now. But like you said that computer isn’t capable of adjusting for the bigger displacement and whatever else may be slightly different than when it was new. My dad bought it new when I was 3. I’m 38 now and it’s my daily driver. Has new bright red paint and looks like a new truck again. No dents no rust. Somebody tries to buy it everywhere I go but it’s not for sale lol.
I never noticed that sorry I think I labeled something backwards in my diagram. The 12v hot going into the distributor goes to the positive side of the coil and two key on 12v.
trailmakers it’s in the skid steer now and runs at 3000 rpm under load and I’ve had no problems but if I ever have problems I plan on using a mercrusier 3.0 ignition module. The boat module is entirely electronically advanced.
Thanks you said you have wiring Diagram for the disi im working 30s chevy with 2.5 with bad computer of corse would like to change it to carb any help would Appreciated
Using the factory intake manifold with a two barrel to single barrel adapter with it bolted to a block of wood then the intake. Had to make my own gaskets for the block of wood. Used a piece of treated 2x4.
Well how wood holds up I was going to swap from tbi to carburetor but don't have wiring harness to run tbi just wondering if it leaks under that wooden adapter
@@chrisperkins7067 ok sounds good I might be able too you still have to use gasket under wood but I was thinking piece of billet aluminum might do better but the wood trick would les expensive
Been using it since the series concluded on the skid steer. Runs fine was digging a trench awhile back had enough power to have the rear tires of the skid steer off the ground when I was bucket deep in clay.
@@chrisperkins7067 I need to know more about the wiring to be able to make it run cause I can't find a solution cause I want to make it carb and no computer since mine is a tbi
@@chrisperkins7067 hey I just watched your part 2 and man you made my set up easy to do the only question I have now deals with timing how do I deal with that
