Today we remove the COE cab off of its original frame and get a better look at the underside. #classictruck #cabover #chevycoe #caboverengine #restoration
your flat floor plan sounds like the best way forward.... looking like a great example of the "Get it Running > Get it Right" mindset Roadkill has championed.
I love the way you are just doing it in your driveway the way we small car builders do it One man operation Brilliant All the way from Wexford Ireland PS send us some buckets of Sunshine
Hey, Wally love seeing the progress on the ceo. I was late getting home tonight it was a nice surprise seeing my old truck in there. I'm loving learning the history on our trucks and It's a 1956 ford in case anyone did want to know. Keep up the great work don't get to hot down there.
Nice project. Making a new floor is maybe the quickest way. I think it will drive nice when the cab is on de camper frame. Good luck with finding the best road to fix this project.
If it were me ( and I am glad its not) I would set this cab on the MH frame first before I cut anything. You may find that what you were going to cut was not a good move. Glad you are referring to carter hair styling and cold war motors for this project. Those guys have tons of experience doing this stuff.
I love this project! You may want to see where your new seat mounts will be before laying out the floor's cross members. Btw, you must have the best neighbors with all the stuff you have going on, on and off the street. You need to have a BBQ and invite them all over and keep them on your good side 🤣
I was thinking about what you are going to end up with at the end of the project. How about coming back full circle? If you leave the long wheelbase of the RV chassis, would it be long enough to permanently mount an old Air-stream trailer body on the back? Or most of one. You could create a retro style / Fallout 3 RV? It would really go places too, with the modern running gear you have. If you go to a show you will be the main attraction and you can also live in it. Lumber in the front, slumber in the back. It might be worth something too! I like the idea of a new floor. Messing around with old complicated sheet steel structures like that suck the life out of you. I know, I have been doing it for 35 years.Its a full custom job anyway, so much quicker to cut it all out. Please keep up the good work Wally.
Thanks, I was thinking about something like that but I want the truck to haul crap around with lol. This truck isn’t really nice enough for that in my opinion. Maybe the next build I can find a clean one to start with.
My dad used one of those COE to haul mail from the Train to the Post Office when I was a kid. He could drive that truck with one hand while rolling a cigarette.....lol
Cool COE I loved hearing the history. I would soak every part of this thing in penetrating oil to help with disassembly. I didn’t understand why you didn’t remove the driveshaft before moving the frame. I definitely like your idea of just fix what you need to get it on the road. It’ll probably always be a work in progress. Looking forward to watching the rest of the build. 👍🏻
I don't know why you don't use more shade sails to keep the blistering Sun at bay. I live in Tropical, Tranquil Sunny Queensland down here in Australia & I use them all around the areas of my shop in my back yard. Our weather patterns would be very similar with normal 100deg+ summer days. I just use the eBay one so not super expensive to buy. Love this build & love your work. Billy J.... OZ-Land.
Great Video! I have a 51' Chevy COE and I want to basically do the same thing. I got to get off my butt and start my project. I'm in Las Vegas NV, also extremely HOT these days!
Cutting out the stock floor and fabbing up a simple 1x tube floor would be pretty slick. Easier to mount custom seats that way because you can put the mounts where you need them. Lookin good Wally 🤘
Since it was a lumber truck I had the idea of a wood floor since it’s going to be flat anyway. Build the steel frame like you’re planning then cover it with a nice hardwood .
Great progress Wally, set small targets for each day you work on this project that way you can stay focused and not get overwhelmed, it also allows you to sit back at the end of each day with a coffee and admire your work, it does wonders to your enthusiasm and helps your brain plan the next move. Cutting the old floor out and re-fabricating is the better option i reckon then it's just tying patches in. Love your work Wally, cheers from Australia.
Cool project. You have obviously done more research than me on this swap....but as someone who has done various body swaps I would rough fit it to the new chassis before deciding an exact plan for the floor and go from there. I'm enjoying the series!
Thanks for sharing looks like you live in my old neighborhood back in the 90s I lived off of 43rd and bell Rd I can still feel the heat coming off those cinder block walls 😂
I would cut the floor and possibly the firewall out and start over. Think it would be easier in the long run. Just my 2 cents. Really enjoying this video series. Thanks
Don't forget life is short make your own floor Sounds the easy route Nice flat floor would look better you might Lower the cab so looks cool Good luck 👍💯
I have '49 GMC COE that I've been working on for about a year. Each time you said anything about about sealing the cab I reflexively though, "I'm not sure how... but best of luck!" I recognize most of your rust areas, and it adds up. I'm not sure how much rain you see where you are (I'm in San Diego), but I have wound up pulling the front and rear windows to change out the rubber to try to reduce the flow of weather into the cab. So before you make it too nice in there you might consider that. Also, I'll buy those inner fender sheet metal parts from you if you're not going to use them.
I would siggest, start by sandblasting the whole cab and yes i agree remove and rebuild the whole interior floor 😉 great project, look forward to watching the progress👍
Hey Wally, great progress. It would be a lot safer to adapt the original steering wheel to the motor home steering column. I’d hate to see you pinned to the back of the cab by that original column if you’re unfortunate enough to be in an accident. Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺
I agree. To much metal work can be a deal breaker. My 54 GMC i just did cowl panels and cab corners and lower B pillers and patched the rest enough to make it structural. It looks good enough to me. So thats all that matters
My suggestion is, get a pressure washer and a syphon adapter for sand. Use it to sandblast and pressure wash simultaneously before disassembling. Then Dissasemble and touch up what you missed. Then do a metal treatment to keep it from rusting. A flat floor and firewall will give tou a little bit more room. Square tube like you say, some sheet metal with a few beads rolled in it to stiffen it up a bit (16 gauge cold rolled)
I like the idea of taking the original panels of the floor and weld them up. Why not? If the metal is good. Sandblast idea is good and the tube frame to adapt the cab to the frame
Nice truck I enjoy the coes I have A42 international I. Enjoy my internationals and the coes Beef, that floor pan sheet metal is hard to replace and find.I always try to keep everything factory
WW this is the first of your videos that I've seen.. very interesting... Save your WD-40 for squeaky door hinges and make yourself a batch of 50-50 Acetone and automatic transmission fluid.. you'll thank yourself for it.. it has been tested against some of the best penetrants money can buy and it out performed them.. and it's also dirt cheap to make... A gal will last for years...
I think using the original body mounting subframe of the old frame could make mounting the body on new frame easy. I know its not a bold on part, but check it out how close it is. Sometimes answers are under your nose in these projects.
Water sand blast with Amazon knock off. Instead of sand get coal dust from tractor supply. This is what I’m doing on my 1971 Chevrolet K10 4x4 with granny low.
Don't make a final decision on the structure repairs until you get the sand blasting done. You can see what you'll have to work with then. Just Getrdone!
Screw heads use a clutch head bit or aka bowtie bit. I just did a 1953 3100 chevy pick up, not a cab over. I swapped on a S-10 chassis and had a bunch of these clutch head screws
I have a 48 coe,im adding a 5 window cab to rear to make a crewcab 4 dr.using4 doors to fab rear doors so it looks stock.9 ft forrest service bed,factory tow truck rear fender spacers for duals.87 gm motorhome chassis ,4whl disc brakes independent ifs all stock 10 lug wheels,cummins engine.6spd trans.using it to tow custom airstream 5th wheel trailer with 2 pop outs.used 2 mid 50 airstreams.its now 38 ft long.
I might replace the whole floor with removable section for engine access. But I would get cab corners frome someplace like LMC and then patina the corners to match and replace that one fender and pantina it as well. I would also use the fuel tank from the rv and route the filler neck to the stock location where the original fuel cap was
I will definitely have access panels. I didn't mention that, but I do plan on replacing what I can and match the patina. The RV tank is way too long unfortunately, it's 80 gallons which I don't need. I think I will do saddle tanks.
Hey there! I recently built a 48 chevy coe and I would recomend bolting the cab structure back to the floor and using it to mount to the new chassis. I put my coe onto a 1983 chevy k30 chassis and it fell right into place and didn’t have to make a new structure. Let me know if you need pics or more info!
Great Job getting the Chevy Cab/fenders off without getting hurt. where did u take the old frame?? did somebody buy the frame? cut-out the floor pan and rebuild-it..