Funny that it even matters … the rule of thumb is remove the -1st and then positive To Install Do everything in reverse, Install the positive first to avoid the burst . Although there really is no burst… it’s just people being way over cautious.. But sometimes when you’re making RU-vid videos, you understand that there’s knuckle draggers out there that want to make sure that they feel good about themselves … so you say things that really don’t matter And I do it so people will make comments… like yours It’s just 😂😂😂😂 my little ways of getting a chuckles for myself when needed… thank you for the chuckles. They do come in handy some days. And today was one of those days that I needed to chuckle. Thank you knuckle dragger . I appreciate you.
Thanks for this project. Is it necessary to remove the starter from the bottom, or will it come out through the top after you remove the brackets you showed? You mentioned that sometimes it can be hard to remove the crank sensor, but you did not seem to have a problem, which is encouraging. You said that sensor was okay - did you figure out what was throwing the code? Thanks again for the video on this Equinox.
Yes I did figure out what the code was, and it’s not going to be very encouraging . It ended up having a bad timing chain . I don’t believe you should attempt to remove it from the top I do not think it will come out from top. but if you have the same code more than likely you’re going to find out you need a timing kit it should be about $500 installed at a regular shop maybe 700 if they’re pricey.at the dealer ship who knows, If you’re nearby me I don’t mind doing it for you . I hope that was helpful for you good luck
Your reply was very helpful. On my 2010 Equinox with the Ecotec 2.4 Liter (LAF) engine, 10,000 miles ago the dealer replaced the chain for the water pump under warranty, but that required the removal and reinstallation of the timing chain. I am now getting codes for the crankshaft sensor, the lack of plausibility between the signals from the intake camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor, and ultra-high pressure in the high pressure fuel system, and others. According to the GM Technical Service Bulletins I have read, these symptoms together mean a timing chain problem. Either I need a timing chain kit or the timing chain tensioner was not properly re-set when the water pump chain was replaced and they re-installed the timing chain and re-timed the timing chain to the marks on the cam sprockets on the phasers. If they timed it incorrectly or forgot to re-set the timing chain tensioner, those are the two least expensive solutions to this problem. Both cam solenoids have been replaced, as has the intake cam sensor. Every single electrical connection has been inspected and treated with Dielectric Grease(as suggested by GM in a TSB issued in about 2010) and the battery has been replaced, as have the primary battery ground wires with an OEM one. By the way, before I started in on it, the car had been taken to the local Chevy dealer running, but came out not running, with an estimate of approximately $5,800 to repair. The service “adviser” said “the engine might be blown, and probably was, and that I should just give it to them for free as a junker,” or words to that effect. 80,000 miles on the car. Otherwise in perfect condition. Customers beware. After towing it home, I put a new battery in, and it runs, except for the aforementioned codes. The vehicle is still supposed to be under extended warranty but GM only repairs vehicles already on a secret list, and doesn’t repair anything not on the list. My prediction is that enough people will be killed by the “Reduced Engine Power” mode message, which is what I originally had, to put GM in bankruptcy when the truth comes out that once again GM refuses to recognise or repair a dangerous problem that affects all of its cheaper vehicles, whether 4, 6 or 8 cylinder and up to and including the 2500 series pickups. So far I have identified well over 50 distinct causes of the dreaded Reduced Engine Power message, some related to VVT, MAF sensors, or throttle body issues, but in the final analysis most are related to electrical issues related to bad power connections, bad grounds, corroded connections caused by leaks or vibration or looseness at the terminal, bad splices in the wiring harness, wires with defects hidden by insulation, or a combination of any of these. Failure to tell customers which oil to use and when to change it has caused numerous VVT failures and engine failures. P.S. Free wiring schematics and access to Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) are available on the website of BBB Industries, Inc. You mentioned that you thought your engine had been replaced - if a non-2010 engine was put in your Equinox, you may never get the timing straight until you find the GM TSB which explains what to do to correct the problem. In short, the phasers and position of the phaser timing marks were unique to the 2010 LAF engine, particularly on the intake phaser, and cannot be used on post-2010 engines (as determined by engine number or VIN) without having a play-by-play guide from the correct TSB or access to a GM dealership computer.
To be perfectly honest with you you can probably do it yourself remember “if anyone else can do it you can do it to” Clayism 121 learn him live by them they will help you in life , Cheers
Probably very very similar I think with that model you can actually just raise up the car and remove the two bolts and the starter comes out pretty easily you may have to remove the oil filter but I know it’s nothing real complicated
3:38 that circular one?? what ever it is please help is that a ground wire im sure someone did not put it on? the starter is on and attached but i found that peoce hanging from the left side???? it seems to be a ground wire not connected?? car will not start idk 🙄🤔🤔🤔🤔
good info but you need help with the camera...your as bad as I am...LOL..this truck keeps throwing the camshaft sensor code...replaced 2xs...works fine for few days then starts again...so going to change it again along with crankshaft sensor and starter because every so often the starter does not disengage..I hope and pray not timing...friend just bought few months ago..but fingers crossed for me!!!
Yeah the camera movement thing is just a nervous tick I have I’m working on it . But unfortunately I don’t have good news for you I am 100% certain from what you’re telling me that your timing has an issue you’re better off doing it before it breaks it is only about $100 for a timing kit and it is really not that hard make sure you get the complete kit that includes the timing for the oil pump it will save you some headache in the future
The camera and the light move too much to follow. I'm sure you have a lot of good advice to offer, but it is not being shown in a way most of us can absorb. At the very least, let someone else hold the camera, go slower, do multiple takes, and let _someone else_ edit it. You might be surprised by how good this could be.
Sorry sometimes good sometimes you’re bad, Apparently I must’ve been very bad in this video I do have a newer one where the lighting is much better it’s under my Chevy playlist
Oh really really sorry I actually just made a new video of this procedure less than a week ago and it’s 100 times better because that video was terrible I hope that’s helpful for you
Well instead of whining, bitching and complaining about some thing, make a better video go ahead spend a day and a half doing a job that would only take you an hour to do or even better yet. Go out and look at the thing that you’re trying to do and figure it out yourself instead of whining and complaining about a free video….
