Chevy GMC 5.3L INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET UPGRADE with KNOCK SENSORS!! 

Looks like I will be following your lead on my 2003 Yukon, as my knock sensor code just came on. Thanks for taking the time to show as much as possible on how to take out the intake manifold. I'm no mechanic, but will try just about anything once. Your video's are extremely helpful for DIY's like myself. I felt your pain at the end of your video, hope that everything turned out ok. Reality isn't always pleasant, but it's always real. Thanks my friend.

Just by the way it cranks but no starts it’s the fuel pump. Been there and done that more times than I would’ve liked to. When I used to travel for work , driving 50k miles a year ,I’d actually keep a spare fuel pump in the back of my suburban for when this happens. Real fun on the side of the road but that’s why I cut an access panel out in the floor above the pump. 😉

If you think you have an intake manifold vacuum leak you can spray some WD-40 around the gasket while the engine is idling. Any change in RPM or sound will indicate where the leak is. This works on vacuum hoses also.

It just sucks Jimmy...when you spend a lot of time and money trying to fix a problem and at the end doesn't work..I've been there many times..I know you'll fix it brother..👍

It'd be worth checking fuel pressure. That will tell you if the fuel pressure regulator is functioning, as well as the check valve in the fuel pump. I had a fuel pressure regulator fail on me last year and after a shutoff it would take several primes of the fuel pump (key on/off) cycles to get it high enough to start.

I want to REALLY thank you for your video. You were very thorough and explained everything very well. I’m going to replace my knock sensors tomorrow and I’m hoping it goes well. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 5.3 motor. I’ll be checking your videos so I know what ELSE to fix!😁

You did the right things here, my 02 Silverado’s intake gaskets were toast, some of them were sheared off and missing. Granted my truck has 268000 miles but you are wisely repairing them to stave off future problems. The intake gaskets are a known issue for these engines

Love your videos. You really take the time to consistently produce high quality information. The best part of this vid was the reality at the end. I know we all feel your pain and it's nice to know we all experience it, even for someone that is meticulous about what they do. I hope you RU-vid pays you well for all your hard work. I'm going to at least buy a t-shirt haha. Thanks man!

How come everyone doesn't bother changing out the Valley Pan gasket when doing their knock sensors, it's right there and infamous for oil leaks! ;)

as long you had access in their change oil perssor sensor as well

There is a upgrade valve cover to avoid the oil in the intake with a long baffle

I’m a boy to do mine as well, I have a code for the injector and oiled pressure sensor so I’ll get them all fixed in one fun filled weekend. Thanks for the vid. Like you said, garage mechanics. Fun!

I replaced the intake manifold and throttle body on my 2006 Silverado 4.8L. I also had oil pour out of the throttle body as well wen I tipped up. I was puzzled too as to why there was oil in the throttle body. I have 275,721 on it. the reason I replaced the intake manifold and throttle body because I had a vacuum leak and the truck was hard to start. I runs like a champ now. I wish I would have seen your video before I did the job so I would have changed and sealed the knock sensors. Thank you.

Man, gonna tackle the knock sensor replace this weekend. Great, clear video. 👍🏿

If you want to stop the raw oil from going into the intake, you have to put a oil catch can on it between the PCV Port which is on the driver's side valve cover and the top of the intake.

Tell us what happened with your 5.3 vortec engine did you figured out the problem... Waiting ur videos man 👌👌👌

Should have looked into relocating the knock sensors. I relocated mine to the passenger side head behind the idle pulley. There’s 2 empty threaded ports the sensors thread into. The factory replacement harness will reach. I never had to lift my manifold since I left the old ones installed.

Thanks for the video. You backed up what I heard about the gasket RTV applied to the caps.

check fuel pressure at quick disconnect by manifold check ,volume delivery too- bet you have no crank position signal...

Great attitude! Taking your time and learning along the way is the right way. In my opinion gaskets needed replaced anyway from the looks of them.

As the owner of a 99 5.7 K2500 PU and a 99 7.4 C2500 Burb and an 04 5.3 K1500 Burb .. I can feel your pain....fuel pumps, fuel regulators, knock sensors, MAP sensors, MAF sensors, O2 sensors, Throttle position sensor, Crankshaft position sensor, Cam position sensor, ckp/cmp correlation...Et al.... But they are all doable and the AC or Delphi parts are reasonably cheap and plentiful.. In the past the fuel pump caused a Crank No Start for both the 5.7 and the 7.4 but they were both obvious as there was no 2 second prime whine at key on. Bad Crank Position Sensor caused intermittent Crank No Start on the 7.4. Had the knock sensor code on the 5.3 , intake manifold coolant leaks on the 5.7 and 7.4....in the cumulative 600k miles on these three vehicles only the fuel pumps ever left me stranded....Your approach is diligent and considered for the information you have at hand to consider... but be very careful when troubleshooting a crank no start with too many "parts" as you could inadvertently create a problem where none existed and end up with two reasons the unit won't run... Like others have said check for spark, check your fuel pressure and see if the injectors are pulsing during crank ...Oh yeah one more thing..my 04 Burb had a bad ignition switch that caused intermittent Crank No Start but it did throw a P1682... Good luck ...you will find it...

Had the same issue- cranks but no start. Ended up being a bad fuel pump. I replaced it and voila, it started right up. Good luck!

My tahoe was doing the same and I just replaced the fuel pump and now is running great

Not sure if you have checked into it yet but you may want to get a fuel pressure gauge and test how much fuel pressure you are getting off the fuel rails and go from there. You can get a cheap gauge that is fairly accurate from HF even. It's that time of year when fuel pumps mysteriously fail due to heat so it's a possibility it just crudded out on you.

Nice detailed work. I just saw your video. I like the longer videos for how to projects. You probably have your truck running by now but you should test everything before you buy anything. Make sure your battery is fully charged! Start with the basic stuff compression, spark and fuel. If your fuel pump runs for 3 seconds at key on like you said than it has power. Check for fuel at the fuel schrader valve. If you have compression and spark and fuel then try spraying starter fluid into the intake. If it still won’t start you’ll need to go through the troubleshooting list in the repair manual.

1) Fuel pressure? 2) Spark? 3) Valves moving? 4) Injectors working? (1) Locate fuel pump fuse, check. Locate the Schrader valve, usually on the fuel rail. Remove the cap. Depress the valve, does fuel spit out? Install pressure gauge. Turn key ON. Read pressure. Key OFF- how long does it hold pressure? (2) Check the IGN and PCM fuses; check ALL fuses & breakers, in cabin and under hood. Remove a spark plug, clip it's wire back on it, hold it with insulated plires and a heavy leather glove. Hold the end of the plug onto engine metal (ground) and crank engine over 5 seconds; observe for strong, blue spark. Repeat for other 7 plugs. (3) With all spark plugs removed- cover plug hole with finger. Crank over engine 5 seconds; feel for vacuum then pressure in each cylinder. (4) Unplug each injector, install a "Noid light" on the connector, crank engine 5 seconds. Observe for light to flash. Test each injector. I'd advise you to buy a Haynes manual for it- all of these tests, diagrams, torque values, and capacities are there. Much safer than heresay on the Internet.

If I hear: "it's really not that hard" in this video one more time!!! I'm burning my Tahoe in the driveway. This kicked my ass, and still is.

Well dang. That sucks. On a positive note, you have helped a lot of fellas who are dealing with the knock sensor issue. Like me. Thanks and God Bless.

+1 on fuel. Pump can turn on and not provide adequate pressure. My sons 2000 Sierra had an almost identical problem. It was the pressure regulator. Super easy to change on the 5.3. Best of luck.

Your videos look like me trying to do car things. I feel like you are learning these techniques just like I would. If you can do it, so can I! Thanks for the DIY inspiration!

I'm doing this job now myself but I have changed everything from plugs to crank sensor oil sensor seals on Mani and head gaskets the whole deal did most of it already before I got to Mani seal have rough idol and oil leaking hope this solves everything I'm already nervous but excited to see results

FYI. A little oil in the intake is normal. Do NOT replace a removable PCV on these trucks with an aftermarket one. These are fixed orifice type to restrict flow. Ones from aftermarket are usually "rattle" valve type and will allow more oil into the intake. New trucks use a permanent fixed orifice PCV that is part of the valve cover.

Dude, I'm doing this right now. Trust me, it's much easier to remove the intake manifold if you go ahead and remove the injectors from the manifold (but not from the fuel rails) and also remove the throttle body first. If you try to put all that back in there together in one piece, it's going to be near impossible to keep your gaskets in place. And you should change the throttle body gasket, anyway. The oil in the manifold is normal. Mine has that, too. It's because there is no PCV VALVE. It is now a PCV ORIFICE, instead. They still call it a valve, but there's no guts in it, only an orifice. The old PCV VALVE used to only draw air through the crankcase during high vacuum conditions. There was a weight inside that restricted airflow at low vac. These ORIFICES draw it all the time. Also note that the hose off the orifice goes directly to the top of the intake manifold. Because of the loop shape of the Vortec manifold, the oil gets slung to the rim of the loop by centrifugal force where it sticks to the inside wall of the manifold and gravitates to the bottom of the loop. It's an idiotic design that hasn't gained us one inch of extra gas mileage! The old manifolds would have just passed this oil vapor on to the cylinders and burned it. These PCV ORIFICES only make matters worse!! THEY SUCK -- TOO MUCH!! I sealed the grommets of my knock sensor wires with silicone sealer, too, but it's a waste of time unless you also seal the hole where the wire passes through the grommet. And you should clean all the surfaces you're going to seal with carburetor spray, not brake cleaner, before you apply the sealant. And don't touch any of these surfaces with greasy hands before applying it. I put my silicone below the lip of the grommets, too, so that it's sandwiched between the wall of the hole and the rubber of the grommet. Someone else here suggested installing something to catch the oil. I had thought of making a trap out of a mason jar or a bottle to put in the hose from the PCV orifice to the manifold. Or if you don't mind the extra expense, you could probably buy a dryer like they put on compressed air lines between the compressor and the machine that uses the air. Those have a draincock on the bottom which makes them easy to empty. I may do that as soon as I get this thing back together. One other thing I did that I may regret later is that I thoroughly cleaned and degreased the sealing surfaces of the block and the valley cover with carburetor cleaner. Then I put FORM-A-GASKET # 2 non-hardening sealant under the valley cover gasket and # 1 fast-drying/hard-setting sealant on the top side of it. I did that because when I looked at my old gasket, it looked as flat as dog poop on an interstate! So I thought, "In a few years this new gasket will look like that one, and I want it to stay stuck and seal!!" BTW, you should have pulled the fuel pump relay before you disconnected the fuel lines for safety.

Under your passenger behind the driver is the tank ,take a rubber mallet whavk it a few times and put a fresh gallon of gas as well in it, my truck was not starting and when i changed my filter i came across your videos a few months ago... moral of the story i beat my head against a wall like the emd of this video i had that face and then whacked the tank and it fired.... SOUND EXACTLY LIKE HOW THIS TRUCK DOES AT THE END..... Hope it helps your videos help me as well doing my intake n knock sensors soon myself why im watching this 1.... Thanks for the awsome videos and hope you get it fired up

So 1 Road what was the final call on this fix? You should do a quick follow up video or comment in this post so everyone knows.

Vacuum hissing in the cabin of the vehicle is generally the brake booster diaphram leak.

Nice video I just got done doing all of that on my GMC Yukon for the third time come to find out the last time I did it I cracked the intake I guess I overturn them but not this time I also put a fuel pump in my truck I can't wait to try to start it to see how it runs I'll let you know

Also a good tip, change your oil pressure sending switch in the back of intake manifold. Just good insurance

I just changed my knock sensors 2006 chevy Silverado 1500 and found OEM GM AC Delco parts on eBay. 2 knock sensors and wiring harness for $61.00 free shipping. The listing had 500 sets. They were here in 4 days and the real deal.

I just had to do my knock sensors and while I was in there I did my oil sensor and that was weird with the oil coming out of the throttle body, mine didn't have any coming out hmm great vid tho! I know I'm late to the party lol

Your PVC might be allowing oil to be sucked into the manifold. Check the hose.

Fuel pressure should be at 50 psi . U r the one that disconnected the fuel line from the manifold, and u said it was easy to disconnect If it was easy as u said, means there was no pressure in the system ( u could not disconnect the fuel line with a 50 psi pressure so easy ) Check the fuel pressure and it sound like a fuel pump issue Ur detailed video is great and the knock sensor issue is very common in 5.3 engine I have a 2004 Silverado with 109k and having the same issue ( it is from a bad fuel )

This will sound weird but there's a wire near the back of the intake along the fire wall that becomes weak and needs to be cut and extend with new attached wire to be connected straight to the battery ground connection. It's a thin black wire with a thin yellow strip. You have to break the harness open. There's also a video of a man running diagnostics and finds this wire is the culprit. Starts up right away.

LS engine draw oil in through the intake install a catch can dude

The 2 Knock sensors wont be the issue , it will only affect a small hesitation in performance as it’s more of safeguard to knock, what’s engine knock , a fueling or detenation lag or pre combustion , a very tiny part but is a fuel efficiency issue not a no start issue .

Hey bro, I just want to thank you for this video and all the info on the parts in the description, I bought everything cuz I needed to replace my knock sensors too. One thing I did though to make them more water proof, is I siliconed the ridge in the sensor holes, the rubber plug underneath, and like you did, as well as the wire where goes through the top of the rubber plug so no moister will ever get in them knock sensor holes again!

Did you remember to plug in the map and crank sensor?...

Gotta love the tryagnose. Bet the parts guys love you. 😂

Great video , don’t give up brother doing great ! 👍🏼

I did this on my 2001 Chevy suburban 2500 6.0L back when I was 16 an I haven't had a problem since

Dang near teared up when it didnt start 😢

You seem to do good work. But, you are just throwing parts at the truck. Test, and test again then perform the repair. You need fuel and spark. Check to see if you have them before doing another repair. Spark you can check easily. Fuel, spray some carb cleaner or brake clean into intake and see if it starts or at least attempts to, Then test accordingly. I couldn't afford you to repair my truck or the time out of service.

Great video and sorry you failed. I felt your pain. I really enjoy your videos because they are real and not planned (edited) as I can tell about your failure here. Still you remained positive and kept thinking of solutions. I hope I can find part 2 of this video to see what the issue was. I am about to tackle this job myself. Somewhat fearful of doing this job. I also saw some camping videos of you in your truck. Keep them up. I saw another video P042 error and the new gasket solved the issue. My 2008 5.3 has a "temperamental" check engine light that kept coming on a couple of times per month with no apparent reason. Now it comes on about every 2 weeks only at idle. Changed plugs wires, and 4 o2 sensors. Symptoms slight roughness in idle but ONLY sometimes. I don't get it. I took it to Midas they said it was fine and charged me $ 450.00 to do an induction cleaning which I think I could probably do myself. Didn't do anything for my issue. Light came back on a week later. These repair shops have no troubleshooting skills. I am better off researching problems on u-tube. I really don't like these new computer vehicles. I had a 1998 Chevy Astro until 270K NEVER had a check engine light, never replaced a o2 sensor. replaced cap and rotor a lot but very good vehicle. Every time I turn around this machine gives me a check engine code for something. Air bag light came on last summer and had the "recall" done. Didn't take care of the air bag light. I saw some videos that said to replace the 2 airbag sensors up front. The Chevy garage asked me If i would like them to troubleshoot and charged me $ 115.00 for diagnosis. They wanted $ 1,100.00 to fix the sensors. I purchased myself and replaced in 30 minutes for less than $ 300.00. Won't go back to Chevy Dealer (rip-offs) Also TMPS kept coming up bought a cheater box to stop the light. These TMPS are totally unnecessary.

I don't know if you ever change the crank or the cam pocishon sensors those two sensors is a very common problem Aldo the fuis and the rally do that too . But that it's a real good explanation . thank you for be so real

Nice video. One of your best. Thanks for posting!

The oil is from the PCV system. Some oil is normal. If you want to eliminate the oil you can get a catch can.

Before you change the pump, check the pressure and it should be in the range of 40-60 psi and if its not its your pump. Some fuel pumps have a sock on the bottom and when the car sits for a while the dirt tends to bunch up and clog the pump and it starts to act up. When you turn the key the pump will turn on but what matters is how much pressure it's sending to the engine and it should be in the 40 - 60 psi range.

I have a 2005 5.3 L was having the same problem with it not wanting to start.You didn't waste your time replacing that intake manifold gasket because by 70,000 miles it won't start to degrade to the point where it needs to be replaced but by the time you get to a 130-140,000 miles it's going to become an issue. Oils going to start dribbling all down the back of your engine you'll see.Actually you won't because you've already replaced it. But your fuel pump is the most likely cause if you've got spark.With only 70,000 miles your ignition should be fine.With these fuel pumps if this car was driven below an eighth of a tank time and time again that fuel pump got hot burned itself up and it's no longer giving you the pressure you need at startup.You might try throttling it till it cranks over I got my ex wifes Suburban started time and time again till I worked up the gumption to replace the fuel pump.After the new fuel pump no longer had any issue starting right up on the first click. And seeing how meticulous and analytical you are you could do this fuel pump it doesn't take nothing but a little tenacity and careful thought and you're wired that way anyway.You should have no problem replacing the fuel pump. It will be a little bit of a pain disconnecting and reconnecting some of those lines. You have to do it while the tanks kind of hangin there partially suspended it's a bit of a pain but you can do it brother. Here's Wishing you success Bro, Scott G.

Like I told you before check that your Fuel system is working properly, the fuel pump can still be working but incorrectly with low pressure or what ever. To be honest replacing the fuel pump is a lot easier than all the stuff you did. Also it does not harm to check that you have sparks could be an electrical issue too. Good luck hope you get it running again

there's no guess work when you use proper guages [fuel,vacuum,volt meter]

Damn man I would have gladly taken the old knock sensors and harness for a 6.0 I'm building. Love used old LS crap.

Perform a gm pass lock on it do the three step one 😉.....your welcome in advance

My man I’m feeling your pain accept mine starting I’m just getting misfire after upgrading to 6.2 manifold.. I know it’s long ago but the look on your face at the end I could feel it threw the screen lol

This model truck and all LS is with stock manifold this would be a good time to change your oil pressure gauge because it’s very hard to get to with the manifold on just food for thought thought you’d like to know learned that from my mechanic

Great video!!! I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe with 415,000 miles on it. I need to (way past due) do exactly what your video showed. Thanks for the detailed info as it will help me tremendously. (sounds like a fuel pump or filter issue as far as to why it would not start and sure that was covered many times in the comments below) I am for sure a diy guy so again thanks for the awesome video!!!

those cooked sun flower seed are the premature corn seed made from corn for E85 ethonal gas ,but some makes it through the refineries that get sent to gas station then sometimes in your car if they just fill there tank up, I work at a gas station and I see seed floating when I have to go out measure the the gas in our tanks!

Great detailed video. Oil seems to be common from pvc pulling the vapors to reburn has oily residue.

I love how this video is made but cant find anything where u updated what the problem actually was

No you don't have to drop the tank to test the fuel pump , absolutely not .

Its a crank position sensor.

if still searching problem try and unplug the mass air flow sensor and try and start again if starts with mass sensor unplugged, you then have a mass air flow sensor defect even though you just replaced.....might help sounds like what i was going thru on my 2000 monte carlo

If you have just 8 bolts that could be the reason for the vacuum leak.

Hey, thanks for your videos, I bought a 99 LT 5.7L 2wheel drive Chevy Suburban classic squad body from a 1 owner 90k miles , and I’ve too taken the task of doing my own work on it.... tune up, brakes, replaced all light bulbs with LEDs, add a Bluetooth modulator to the stock radio, replace all stock speakers with aftermarkets, removed the 4x10s in the rear deck with 6x9s, replaced all exterior house light units with oem parts , it’s a wonderful feeling when you can tell others “ I did that” ! Thanks for your videos and motivating me!

GM updated the material in those gaskets. the original gasket material was orange which you had, that stuff drys out and flattens out over time and causes a vacuum leak and causes it to run like crap when its really cold out and stalling until it warms up. the new material is blue or green depending on GM or Felpro. although Felpro has 2 different versions of the gasket. i actually prefer the plastic ones that clip to the intake over the metal ones, and here the metal ones are cheaper than the plastic ones. i've done lots of those knock sensors, and where i live in Canada, usually i end up replacing the valley cover as well, because the rear hole is so full of rust/mud/water that the sensor is so rotten it breaks off and you have to pull the cover up and the seal stays down there, then go through extracting the broken sensor or whats left of it. but care needs to be taken, cause there are openings under the cover right to the camshaft.

Question: What was the problem you were having that initiated this upgrade? "Having a problem with them"? Were they causing the car to stall? Making noise? Not switching gears?

I had bought the non ac delco ks bad idea. The codes came back but had one hell of a time trying to remove the first one. The top part of the ks was spinning and would not come off. I had to knock it of with a pry tool. The bolt was stuck in there had to use an extractor and out it came out. Yes I had to remove the valley pan and while I was at it changed the gasket too. Everything thing all good now.

The oil in your throttle body is coming from the pcv valve!...replace or delete it!!!...otherwise LS RULES!!!

My intake gasket has been failing for three or four months now, the issue that I have is the truck idols really crappy for the first minute after startup until that gasket heats up then idles fine.

It could be your fuel pump

Never assume always diagnose. Even though this did not fix your no start, as you said it is definitely a problem with these trucks so it would have needed to be done sooner than later anyways. If you have not got it running yet I urge you to test spark, the injectors & fuel pressure. If fuel pressure is low check the regulator first, most of the time when they go there will be gas in the vacuum line connected to the regulator so that’s one quick check. However if you check and there is no gas in the vacuum line that doesn’t mean it is good, the next thing to do would be to pinch off the return line and check fuel pressure again. If it goes up the regulator is the problem. If not it is the pump. And about the oil in the intake, that much is not normal it looks like you have a bit of excess oil coming up through either the PCV hose/valve on the driver side or the small PCV hose on the passenger side that goes from the valve cover to the throttle body. I would check both, see how much oil is in the hoses, check the PCV valve & maybe think about getting a catch can. I have one on my 5.3 and it works great, it keeps a ton of oil from getting into my intake where it does not belong.

While your intake is off you might want to change your oil pressure sending unit. It goes bad around a hundred and fifty thousand miles. Mine went out after I changed my intake gasket and my knock sensors.

Harbor freight fuel pump test gauge worked on my 5.3l The fuel pump was working like you mentioned for 3sec but only pump to 8 psi. You need + - 50psi I replaced with ac delco Engine started like there was never problems Best and I think easiest way to replace fuel pump is to remove the bed What I remember there was 6 bolts You need at list two person for that.

And if you heard humming coming from the rear of the vehicle your fuel pump is working your most culprit is fuel pressure regulator

good video how ever Im not sure you put your intake tube back on I know mine wont start with that off what was the problem ?

Appreciate your videos!! They are definitely helpful. Thank you for what you do.

I don't know if your figured out the oil in the intake but they do make an updated driver side valve cover to address that. It has a modified design on the underside of the valve cover to prevent oil from getting sucked up.

Check fuel pump, injectors may be clogged up as well. Wouldn't hurt to clean the mass air flow sensor. If it's really dirty you'll know a huge difference if you spray it down with MAF sensor cleaner. Hope this helps.

Check your fuel pump pressure and see if you are firing as well

Being that deep into this “repair” I would have changed your valley gasket also. Another common thing to go out.

Not sure where your oil pressure sensor is on that but it would’ve been good to replace that while having the manifold off my 2011 Silverado is along the fire wall on the driver side

I have had a Tahoe and Yukon xl, both with 5.3’s for YEARS. When there’s a “no start” condition, ALWAYS CHECK FUEL PRESSURE AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SPARK, FIRST AND FOREMOST. Then check fuel pump fuses and relay.

Fuel pump is probably bad it will run without a maf.

I definitely would have changed the oil sensor thats behind the valley while I was there and had the intake plenum off. Its such a pain to change when the intake is on.

Jimmy, it blows my mind that you spend good money on OEM parts but you haven’t bought a Chilton Auto Repair Manual for your vehicles. There’s no way that I would ever just watch a RU-vid video from someone else to get the torque specs for anything, especially not for the heads of a motor. I think you’re doing a really good job with your channel but this shotgun maintenance is pretty crazy.

Maybe it could be K&N filter oil bath that's accumulated over time?? Just a guess...

One possible problem to not starting is the crank / cam position sensor. It would have been nice to be able to access it while you had the intake manifold off

i always look up manufacturer torque specs sometimes its better to read a chart than watch a video great vid though about to be dealing with this myself so thanks for the info!!

I think that old oil is it accumulation of oil vapor that's in the return line from the valve covers.

Guys when your intake leaks loosen all 10 bolts. Then lift and jingle the intake. then run the bolts back down in a crisscross pattern. Tork in the same pattern. That should stop the leek.

Check the ignition switch module. I had an 04 truck where it was only powering half the ignition circuits. The model is in the column. It is not the VATs model it just powers certain circuits at whatever key position no programming involved.