Chevy & GMC Truck Dual Master Cylinder/Power Brake Booster UPGRADE Install with Lines Explained 

Hands down you're among the best tutorial channels. I have to do this on my 76 C10 once the weather warms up. Thanks for all of the great content!

Awesome explanation of problems you can encounter during this procedure, Thanks David. You make it look so easy! But still realistic to the average weekend build!

Very good demo Dave. Informative and to the point. Thanks man.

I remember back to when I started cutting and flaring my own brake tubing and how stupid I was. I dont know how many times I'd finally get a perfect flare only to realize the fitting wasn't on the tube or if I made a hard bend I'd forgotten to get the fitting past it. Lol live and learn 😌

Looks good!! I just bought the complete stainless lines for my 79 F150. No issue!!!

This guy is mechanic Jesus. Great video.

Great video keep them coming!!!!

So what do you do if you are retaining the hydraulic clutch?

I love the videos keep them coming

Great video Dave. You might want to add how to adjust gap between booster rod and master cylinder. Should be around .020

Excellent instruction.

Can you please do a 81-87 roof skin replacement video?? Thanks for all you guys do!!!!

Dave, The Goat!

Great video, thx!!!!

Outstanding

I have the dual reservoir and power booster you featured on your video. I want to do a brake flush to replace old brake fluid. When I suck old brake fluid from reservoir and replace with new do I need to put reservoir cap back on with the 2 holder clips before I begin to hold brake and bleed brakes? Or can I keep reservoir cap off so I can see reservoir level? Or does it even matter? Big fan of your channel

Thanks for the info .

Do you notice in vid. when he's under dash drilling hole in brake pedal,you don't see any new bolt heads/nuts holding the booster????

Davy, I'm so loving this video because I have asked, why cant the master cylinder be bled attached to the vehicle? Owing to the fact it's as stable as using a bench vise and the shaft would be doing the same thing as whatever you'd use to push the air out of the master cylinder. Could you say the difference between double flare tool and bubble flair tool?

Thanks for the great video, I was doing some research on a single to dual master cylinder for my 66 Vette. I did have two questions. 1) Are you using steel or stainless steel - heard stainless is a lot more difficult to work with and steel doesn't last long. 2) Have you tried using copper / nickel lines yet with any luck?

Great videos. I deal with brothers because of them.

I like the video it covers a lot , I’m concerned about the air cleaner on my inline 6 hitting or interfering with the dual master cylinder and booster , will it fit in a 65 with a inline 230 and single barrel carburetor and original air cleaner assembly?

Thank You for a good video! Just on question: the original master cylinder was a combined brake/cluch unit? What happens to the cluch when the new master is in? Regards -Timo-

Great video. I'm doing a Front disc conversion on my 65 long bed. When running the brake lines out of the proportioning valve is there only one line or 2 lines? Also is there some where to find a diagram on how to run the brake lines?

Great video! I'm converting to a dual line system and want to buy a pre-bent stainless line for the crossover line to feed only the rear which runs down the passenger side of the frame. The pre-bent line is 1/4 inch. Is it okay to use 1/4 inch diameter and step it down to feed the 3/16 inch rear line? Also, is it necessary to use the proportioning valve with 4 wheel drum brakes?

Installed my brake booster and started bleeding everything. Brakes seem spongie and don’t get a hard pedal till about 2 inches from ground. Any pointers how to fix this issue?

The number 1 problem is over tightening the first or second step or both. Yes, it is easier in the vise to hold the tool arm, but fat & fluffy. Like neighbors cat that poops in your kids sand box. These will crack, snap off or leak. Each hose, tee fitting, wheel cylinder is machined inside and slightly different. I used the SnapOn kits for ISO bubble, inverted/double flare (either term is fine) just go easy. This in not holding a 100 foot tower so, tighter than hell + 3 turns is wrong. Maybe the reason for AN 33 degree fittings to keep it Bubba proof. Just army Bubba’s. Not good ole boys with gator loops on their hats. Keep it soft, let the fitting push it home to the old or new component. That’s how long lasting seals are made. And vehicles out of the ditch, excluding 3AM on Saturday nights. Just thinking out loud! Certified automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired

Dave kinda leaves important info when mounting the booster of things you run into.

I have a 62 chevy c10 when I brake the truck goes to the left I have new disc brakes and I did bleed the lines but can’t seem to find the problem any ideas

Hi Dave. On my 54 Chevy , aka O'l Beater. I'm starting to plan my brake lines.i have the original frame, but with a 1987 c10 front suspension, and brakes on the firewall.what VC would be the best way for me to get started, thanks for your Videos. Very good.

Can I ask you why you had to drill a hole 1 1/2 inch below the original one on the brake pedal? Is it required?

How bout if you don't want vacuum assist, just a standard duel reservoir mounted directly to firewall?

What was the reason you drilled the lower hole1 1/2in the brake pedal arm?

Hey, my chevy 64 has a 8 lug pattern, do you guys have a front kit for it, with master cylinder and booster

Where can I get the firewall template

I have a 1957 GMC and just replaced the master cylinder but its under the drivers side and not a fan of not being able to check the fluids , Is there a kit that allows me to move the master cylinder to the firewall under the hood and give me the conversion to make it power brakes

It’s a tragedy that Dave isn’t around anymore. If I’m wrong, let me know

What size is that spacer for the brake booster?

What is that plate called? the one that is screwed onto the truck?

Hello i would like to add a dual master cylinder to my 60 apache like dave installed my question is i still want to keep my 6 cylinder and clutch slave so how will i keep my hydraulics to run the clutch slave. Thanks for your help

Is this about the same procedure for a 73?

What do I do for the original hydraulic clutch?

Wow I'm early

Do you have this same kit for a manual transmission??

What's the part number for the pre bent brake lines

My 62 has a hydravac! 😩 pump

Original brake lines are 1/4 inch not 3/16

use dot 4 or dot 5 it wont hurt paint and is a better fluid