We have been engineers and general construction managers for 40 years. We have seen every way to flash incorrectly and they all fail. However, here we have genuine cut-in step flashing! This is the only way to correctly flash a chimney or trim. Very enjoyable to watch flashing done correctly. This should be a training film sent to all roofers in America who would nail their aluminum flashing on the brick and caulk with any tubes of caulk that will fail within a year or two. A genuine thank you for posting this very well done effort.
lol wut,every chimney done with solar seal caulk and proper double hem bent towards chimney will outlast shingles. engineer and manager means you havent done 300 chimneys like i did with my own hands and theoretical knowledge is not always works in actual field work
I’m not a contractor or anything. I’m an accountant, and I found this to be highly satisfying to watch. Great work! It’s an art form that takes patience and dedication.
Hi Chad, Thank you for the videos, you did an absolutely brilliant job, your attention to detail and narration was very well explained throughout. I am pretty sure there will be no problems with this job and your clients delighted with the finished job. I live in Yorkshire, England, and last year had a roof replacement, the roofer welded the Lead flashing as you described, and he also was very conscientious regarding his work ethic and the visual aspect of vertical lines etc. Well done once again. Gordon, Halifax, UK
Super clean install. Great 2 part video to learn from. I have a lead flashing repair to do and this taught me a lot. Pro tip: Once you the last ridge cap shingle is on and the silicone is wet. Rub 2 shingles or caps together over the silicone so the granules fall into the silicone so you don't see the nail heads. Another option is to put silicone/tar/roofing cement all over the last ridge cap and wet set another one over the top of it so you don't have to worry about nail heads.
Thanks, I’m glad you learned something from this. Great idea with the granules. I know they sell containers of granules but I never thought to grab some from the shingles I had. Almost all roofers here don’t cover any exposed nails with anything anymore. Sad really.
The amount of time and care taken for this job was amazing. I'm redoing my whole roof and wanted to flash my chimney in a similar way but finding lead flashing and the sheer cost of copper just doesn't make sense unfortunately. Still hard to find some of these specialized materials here in the Midwest without paying an arm and a leg.
Thanks! Lead is available at all masonry outlets and hardware stores here, even Lowes and Home Depot have it. It costs about $140-150 per roll now, although I have one supplier that will sell for $110 per roll.
If you know of another system that works then it would be interesting to hear about it. Otherwise how can you afford not to do it this way? I am not trying to be a jerk.
We use lead plugs to keep the lead in before siliconing little strips of lead rolled up and pressed into the joint so that it's tight and the lead doesn't move 👍👍 but really like how you do it as I haven't seen many people using lead over your way it's great to see
I wish all tradesmen thought about the ones who will be working behind them in the future. Many do shoddy work and have no consideration for the ones who have to come in later and fix their horrendous work.
Do you have any suggestions for how to talk to a roofer who is redoing your chimney flashing to make sure they do it correctly. I can see them rolling their eyes and not wanting me to tell them how to do their job.
Just ask them to make sure the mortar is all sealed up underneath the new flashing. Definitely tell them you want ice and water shield around the chimney (I prefer the Grace brand) with a 3” lap onto the chimney. Let them know that you’re particular about the flashing and you want it to look good. Sometimes just mentioning things is enough to make someone slow down and do a better job.
Great workmanship! I've been roofing for 45 years and haven't seen workmanship like this. Especially scribing the vertical lines to get a nice plumb look! Only one little nit pick, the nails in the shingle at the bottom left corner (1:02:22) are too close to the flashing and being that the flashing has a slight slant to it away from the fireplace the water is going to head toward those nails. Will it ever leak? Probably not, but after all that fantastic work it's the weakest point. I also like to leave about a 3/8" space between the edge of the shingle and the vertical bend in the shingle to allow a space for the water to run down. The water can still run under slightly but it helps with the water flow especially if the chimney is lower on the roof where there is more water accumulation. Thanks for the detailed workmanship. Nice to know that there are still quality workmanship being done!
This will fail eventually. Flashing needs to move and be separate from shingles. Being a mason for 30 years I've seen flashing done this way and it always fails. Flashing should have either a birds mouth cut into flashing or lead wedges forced into bed joints. This keeps the lead from backing out. A flush cut grinder will cut a deeper joint into brick to get at least an inch and a half deep. Just my opinion from experience.
Everything fails eventually. I wonder if you even watched the video? I’m guessing you skimmed through with the volume off. Your comment leads me to question your experience and integrity.
@@chadvaillancourt I watched. My integrity is top notch. Simply caulking joints will not guarantee they won't back out. I also am not a fan of base flashing returning back up chimney. That creates a dam effect. Better to have corner piece return 2 inches around face of chimney. I didn't insult you only made some constructive comments unlike you made towards myself. No one knows it all but may become a better craftsman by listening. I do give you credit for your time on this production. Good day.
@@brikkijim James he did all the things. And silicone will conform and jamb up a notch really well after curing. Fully embedded along the length with a single wedge to allow a linear stretch. Looks like a system evolved over time to survive.
@@markharmon4963 I only know from experience rebuilding chimneys. I've seen both silicone and one part urethane eventually fail. A rolled piece of lead pounded into joint will hold flashing in place even if caulking fails and peels out. I do like the fact that ice/water shield was applied under step flashing. I do hope I am wrong and it lasts a lifetime.
Great job. You want to “dog ear” (cut at a ~45 degree angle) the top corners of the shingles abutting the chimney so that any water traveling laterally off of/away from the chimney travels back toward/down the side of the chimney. Also, leave a little space at the angle change so water can flow freely along the side of the chimney.
This is the quality craftsmanship I try to achieve on a daily basis. I'm a mason for a chimney company just up 495 and there always rushing me 😆.. I actually stumbled on your channel because I'm a self taught and I sometimes use RU-vid sharpen my skills . I also have the same thoughts on caulking those joints 👍 I use a geocel caulking myself.
I’m glad to hear it! RU-vid is a great resource no matter the skill level. Everyone has a different way and lots can be learned if people are willing to share. I used the geocel proflex for years but I had to stop because of the cardboard tube. It’s a good product.
Polyurethane caulking works so well. Much better than silicone. Comes in many colors as well and smooths out like a dream with dawn dish soap and water.
@@chadvaillancourt I get it. 5-10 years vs silicones 20 year life. Poly accepts paint well around brick mould and is excellent for sealing wide cracks in masonry. Easier tooling as well.
@@chadvaillancourt silicone does not bond to graces self adhered sheet goods. In fact we use it to make temporary dams on bituthene for water tests because it peels off easily and cleanly. I have installed polyurethane sealant on high rise buildings that is still in perfect condition after 30 years. But you have to use quality products.
@@bunnylou4993 if you are only getting 5-10 years from polyurethane you are either installing it wrong or using cheap material. But since you said use soapy water it is clear you are installing it wrong. We routinely get 20-30 years from urethane.
I’ve done hundreds of tear downs and through flashings over 30 years and not one has ever leaked again! Guaranteed each one …..Your counter flashing is a solid job….
wow, after watching your videos on this chimney helps me realize all of what I thought I knew about very basic roofing and chimney 101, ..is nothing what I thought it was. I don't do that type of work but am needing chimney and dormer leak repair and am tired of band-aid odd job work repair that never works.. and my roof is dangerous to get on
Would it be OK to use 3 pieces of 8 inch lead to construct the front apron to cover up roofing cement stains? It would cover about 13 inches in the front and the sides would also be longer. Some pieces would exceed 20 inches. Is this too much to cover?
What a nice job! It looks really good too. Good explanations on why you do each step. I do handyman work, and nearly every house I enter has botched work. It blows my mind how much bad work I see. In Part 1 you showed layer upon layer of messy repair attempts that failed. Those hack jobs are fine in an emergency like during a storm when you're just stemming the tide until you can do a proper repair. Very much admire your skill and methodical work. I'm originally from MA and your accent sounds familiar! My 70 year old house in OR has the original heavy galvanized steel step flashing. I re-roofed 27 years ago, and just lifted it up like you said. It could probably go another 20 years, but I'm going to replace it with lead the way you did.
I'm a mason in Rhode Island and probably three or four times a year I have to replace flashing or build a chimney and flash it I've been looking for a video like this to learn any tips or tricks to make it easier and could never find one thanks for the video I can't believe it's been up for a year and I could never find it
The RU-vid algorithm is ridiculous, you could search the exact title and something else irrelevant would pop up first because it has more views and they have more subscribers. I hope you find the videos helpful.
Wow!! I do chimney work every day in Baltimore city Maryland. I love your technique. Although we don't use lead much. Mainly copper. And even aluminum. This is absolutely the correct way to do this!! I'm so tired of seeing caulk over everything! Then I have to grind it out and repair. I think this is an absolutely perfect video to show people the extents to make your chimney waterproof!!
Bro you’re supposed to solder the corners. Not welding or just beating it into shape. Not trying to be a jerk because you know more than most hacks out there 👍🏻
Chad - Thanks for the great detailed videos on this flashing technique. On both of your repair videos the chimney is at the ridge. My chimney is at the bottom eave/gutter end. It is about 20" wide so no need for a cricket. But how would you flash the back side of a chimney like this? Would you get a 30"x30 square piece to go up the chimney and up the roof in one piece? I would be concerned any piece on a 4/12 pitch roof would tear trying to make the bend on the corner from the back to the side. Thanks for any advice.
The method is close to the same. I did show it on some of my other videos. Maybe check the shadow-box chimney I rebuilt, there should be something on that one to help you understand.
I have never done any Roofing however I have climbed around on a few in my younger days just for sport. Most impressive. I sat here and watched the whole video start to finish with absolute amazement at the detail and precision which you apply to this job. Do you always work alone?
Thank you. I do have help for the summer when my boys are out of school and I have a couple good friends that also have masonry businesses that help me when I need it. I don’t want the stress of employees anymore.
Chad, I have to say that I am very happy to see pride in craftsmanship! I hope you share your ability and attention to detail with someone so it's not lost. I'm watching these videos due to the fact that we have a newer roof ands it's leaking into the fireplace. I have a tarp over the cap to see if it's coming from there, but it's still coming in. Which i assume leaves the flashing, which looked a bit like this one in the beginning. Mine however is on an exterior wall and recessed into the roof with a 5-12 pitch. The chimney is 3 to 4 ft wide, and the ridge side is just flat to the back of the chimney. Shouldn't that have a gable built to the back of it, to divert the water away? It's probably 14' of water hitting on that side. You can see were the previous flashing was stepped down the sides, like you did the lead, and the caulking was just left, and the new flashing matches the slope and is caulked in. I don't suppose you are local to NC? Either way amazing work!
I really enjoy watching your videos, you are so gracious in sharing your knowledge and experience. You mentioned that you work in the Northeast, do you serve the Saratoga/Albany, NY area? The flashing around my chimney is in poor condition and I am wondering if I could hire you?
Dreadful lead flashing. You'd be sacked in England for producing that. I wouldn't accept that from any of my lads. Learn how to weld lead. You won't need to smash the hell out of the lead then. Put lead soakers on top of each course of shingles, then a single piece of proper stepped flashing to sides. Buy a lead dressing/ bossing kit!
Another coward from England that runs his mouth; yet doesn’t have one video showing his technique. 🤦♂️ My method may not look the best, but at least any homeowner can replicate it with minimal tools, without learning how to weld and buying expensive equipment. Also it’s certainly more waterproof than your method of a single piece of stepped counter flashing ( the cheapest way). We don’t have lead welders here, it’s not a profession so masons have to do there own work. Maybe you’ll grow a pair one day and Grace us all with your own video. Doubtful.
Overall a great job, best I've seen. However, silicone will not last as long as polyurethane roofing chauk, I've cut open 40 yr old polyurethane chauk and it was like new inside and still stuck to everything, silicone will never last that long on the brick. Why would you fix the flashing and not the cap which is likely the cause of the leak? In my book, not fixing the cap is as bad as using wax paper as an underlayment that you complained about. If you fix it, fix it 100%. If the owner says no to the cap, don't bother with the flashing. You could have added a lead or metal cap with a 2" overhang and then put the existing stainless cap back on thereby adding a drip edge keeping the bricks drier.
Everything I’ve ever seen or read suggests that silicone is far superior to polyurethane as it isn’t subject to UV degradation. The new silicone is so good compared to the stuff 20 years ago. I’m very confident in using it.
@@chadvaillancourt Yes, it does UV degrade, but only the top 1 to 2000 of an inch. Once that oxide forms, it stops degrading. That is why all skylight manufacturers use it and not silicone. Polyurethane might look bad on the top, but inside it's like new, I've seen it on skylight glass I've had to replace and on other surfaces. Plus it will adhere to damp surfaces and stick forever, while silicone will not. It's nasty to work with, so you need acetone to clean up after, but it will outlast silicone by far. I've seen those articles about cracking when cold and sagging when hot, I've never seen that in over 40 years of using it on skylights and flashing. Never gets brittle in the cold or sags in the heat. At least the quality products I have used. Maybe cheap stuff will. But that can be said of cheap silicone as well.
@@chadvaillancourt How do you warranty your work if there is a known problem ( the cap) when you are done? Considering what they are likely paying you to do this, the cap seems a strange place to cheap out.
Your two part video is so well done I was able to do the work on my own house. Local supply store thought I was on drugs when I asked for sheet lead. Thank you for this two part video. Neighbors think it looks awsome.
So chimney flashing done by different people not the roofer? So when you habe a problem who do you call to repair chimney flashing? I though roofer does that kinda job?
The flashing has always been installed by the mason while building the chimney, then the roofer comes later and ties in the roof. Now, the roofers insist on installing new flashing every time a new roof is installed because it's an upsell. That's usually when it starts leaking. They hire the least skilled people and have them go fast. The skill level in roofing is probably at an all-time low. Profits are at an all-time high.
Why did you put an apron and a counter flashing on the bottom, but only did one piece of flashing on the sides? Wouldn't it be easier and just as effective to take the counterflashing you put on the bottom and just extend it further down, exactly how you did on the sides? Why the apron?
Most people do this the exact way you suggest, but you cannot get that single piece to bend around and offer enough coverage on the bottom corners, it’s always the weak spot. Also over time that single piece seems more likely to crack in the middle. This is just the way I do it, I’m sure there are many other methods.
Just use a small propane torch with a soldering tip to make corners water tight. It melts at very low temp versus welding you mention with oxy acetylene torches.
Nice job and videos Chad! What do you recommend for patinating the lead flashing or do you even oil it. Just pulled out the lead on my chimney and the underside was solid white. The original flashing job was crap so I'm doing it right. Thank you!
Thanks! Unfortunately I can’t find patination oil here, I’ve been looking and asking for years. In Europe it’s a common product. I did hear linseed oil works, and someone said wd40 but I haven’t tried either yet.
@@chadvaillancourt Thanks for the reply! It would add a nice touch to the lead work and perhaps catch on. The only thing close I found may be Tin-O-Lin from Calbar which is a tinners oil and may be similar. Have not contacted them yet. Its linseed oil based finish coat for lead/tin plated terne metal roofing. Something I'm not familiar with. They sell through Sherwin Williams in Biddeford per their website.
I've always rolled up a a tiny piece of lead to use as an anchor between mortar joint and lead to hold in place. Once you roll up the little peice of lead, use an awl to squish it in the joint. Then use a specific caulk to mimic the mortar.
I actually used a similar technique in this video with the lead pieces. I would never use caulking on a chimney though, just doesn’t last long enough or adhere good enough in my opinion.
@@chadvaillancourt Yea I did see that after I posted.lol.. They make a special caulk that is for that purpose, I forget the name of it. Maybe dynaflex, not sure but it was specifically for mortar joints while also providing the necessary flexibility. Great work, I miss it, but then again....
I used some THROUGH THE ROOF! sealer (comes in a cube-shaped plastic jug on my brick after water was coming in through some degraded mortar joints.. now im into getting the top section rebuilt.. do you recommend the paint-on sealers at all, for new chimneys? i think you mentioned in the first part of this video to let it breathe
Thanks! I prefer silicone in this application, it’s waterproof and flexible. Mortar cracks the first time the lead is lifted up to put shingles on especially if the roof is getting done in the following days.
i had my roof done and leaks within the chimney area (exactly older chimney like this one is). i know for a fact they didn't do this type of work with the flashing work they did. you're workmanship is amazing. i have to get someone do your type of work; i will show the next guy that i want exactly wha you did. What did you charge for this job? that way i know what to expect and not get ripped off again.
U don't cut the Verticle Cut to tuck your Flashing into the Brick? I've always laid my Shingles Over the Flashing, the Tar under the Ends to seal and stick. Nice Clean job 👍👍 I still not sure about Not Notching the Verticle ends of your Flashing. Blowing rain could get behind that area unless u Caulked under the Edge.
If you don't like the cardboard tubes have you tried a sealant like Dymonic FC in a sausage? My mason introduced it when I was helping him repair a wall ony building. He also taught me to clean and point bricks. BTW I have the same rotary hammer, I think mine is over 30 years old but doesn't get much use.
😮 What a beautiful job you have done. You definitely are a master Craftsman. What you do very good. Thank you for the video. It's gonna help me when I go to do mine. If I could afford to have you come to my house. I would, but I can't so I really appreciate you showing me what to do. Very fine video thank you
I have to say. This is the first time I have been impressed for a really long time. I Roof all day 7 days a week. I deal with idiots and their Ideas and opinions daily. But this right here is hands-down a legitimate idea and way to flash a chimney
As a retired contractor of 42 years..I can tell you that Through The Roof Caulk is one of the best products for sealing most anything through the roof..It Bonds to almost any materials and it does not dry and shrink like traditional silicone and crack away or pull away from material..Its almost like an adhesive as well as expandable caulk..You are very thorough and looks great..
I live in hill billy USA. When the roofer talked to me about flashing the chimney following a derecho, he said most people just have it packed wiith roofing cement, but I opted to have it flashed by their sub contractor for $250. The roofer did the lower flashing. The flashing guy used metal, not lead. He didn't step flash but just has it running at angle parallel to the roof line. I had to have him come out two more times to fix it from leaking. He said he cut a groove before installing it. I guess he did. My chimney is well down from the ridge in the middle of the roof. At the time, I didn't know how to build a saddle or cricket and the house didn't have one. My guess is the chimney sat on the ridge back when it was built in 1923, but the deadliest tornado to hit the USA decimated this town in 1925, and it appears they changed the orientation of the ridge from front to back to side to side resulting in the poor placement. Anyway, long story. You do great work.
I use torch down modified bitumen as flashing on my commercial building. Goes down super fast and 100% waterproof. This video shows a high class job but labor intensive.
The reason why the previous repairs failed is because this requires a lot of work, skill, patience and pride in your work. Unfortunately, those qualities have been lost today. Great work!
Great info! I wonder if the primers they make like perm a barrier or Henry would help with the membrane sticking. The big issue with those might be the time to set up. Your solution is probably faster and more efficient though. Keep up the good work Chad!
Chad, I live I never the UK where we do a lot of lead work, my tip to you is get or make some wooden lead beating tools as the wood allows the lead to flow around the shape chosen, your rubber happier grips the lead so does not allow it to flow so easy....try them you will be amazed at the difference it makes to shaping the lead.
I've been thinking for a while that I would get online and buy some proper tools from Europe, I just haven't gotten around to it. I'm going to look right now.
Thanks Chad! I want to send this video to the roofer coming in 2 days. I don't know if he speaks english. Hope he is skilled and takes pride in his work.
It's good to see someone properly flashing a chimney. I live in an old southern city and only about one in twenty are flashed properly, as most just have flashing glued to the chimney! Which will begin to leak immediately !
Excellent explanation and I enjoyed your video. I’m not a roofer or a flasher 😅, but I’m an ex paratrooper but do have fear of heights. I must admit I was nervous of seeing you work at height but using no safety scaffolding. You clearly know what your doing but it only takes one mis step or accident….just my thought.
Nice work you do. Surprised you didn't put some shingle grit over wet silicone on ridge shingle nails heads so they are hidden from view. Really good job though,I'm just Handyman but i can see what craftsmanship is.
Thank you. I guess I cannot remember, I thought I did put granules over the silicone, sometimes I do this although there is no real benefit. The silicone holds up to UV degradation without being covered, tar does not.
WOW ! You are the man ! Very professional. You certainly do excellent work with the necessary knowledge. Learned so much. I’m not a roofer or flasher but our roof is leaking around the chimney. Our house is thirty years old and the roof needed replacement because of a hurricane. The leaking is bad whenever we have a heavy rain. Nothing was done to replace the flashing or to fix mortar and brick erosions. We have a lack of available roofers because hurricane Ian caused major damages to Florida. Question: how does one find a qualified professional to do the right work like you do ?
