For context... we had an addition put on our house one year ago that includes new roof around our chimney. Every big storm the roof leaked and we had the roofers back out and the contractors back 4 times to "fix" the leak. Every big storm it would leak again. Finally after investigating and getting fed up with the roofers i watched this vid and used this method around the flashing. We had12 hours of rain yesterday and i saw no water entering the attic in the usual spots. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Ik having the same issues..cant take these roofers anymore...I pay it leaks still.I have an addition put up for my feral cats and the brick wall flashing leaking still after 5 men up there. One last roofer finally said its the flashing ..cracks. But now I cant get them to even give me an estimate. Should I try sealing it myself...?
ok I will give it another try. Im 68 old woman lol and thought the leaK was coming from loose shingles the ass roofers lifted and did not secure back down.l I replaced them myself. Then still leaks . This new roofer came and said the flashing has cracks above the seal...so I will try this..ugh. @@hobbyoftheday4017
You just exchanged one bad solution for another because you just went right over the old caulking. Either cut & re-point the whole chimney or just cut the old caulking out of the joint & put backing rod & re-caulk it properly. No reason the paint that shit all over the brick face like that.
It would of be cheaper to use the right type of sealent for the metal flashing which sticks to both materials . And fill the missing brick joint back with cement mortar . Look tider to
I just had to share. I actually paid a contractor to fix my leaky skylights after a roof replacement. He never returned to replace them or the issues I was having with my chimney. flashing. After watching several of your videos I ordered the Bergstrom products and despite a terrible contractor my skylights and chimney have not leaked after truly heavy rains the last few weeks. Bravo!
Love the attitude, and the Flat roof doctor is on the house,,,, very good, and i love the MUSiC you inserted in video,,, just the rite amount of fun and your voice was great BRAVO,,, Peac out
There is nothing wrong with this repair, people are being a bit stuck up. The customer could have indeed paid for a much more expensive job, removing the metal flashing/cladding and previous repair then repointing the brickwork. That costs a lot more, huge difference and these dudes have done an effective repair that will weather in, won't be noticeable after a few seasons and be weathertight for many years for minimal cost, time and fuss. Good job lads. Not all customers want to spend big.
Why do people do this, you might of fixed the issue but it looks absolutely terrible. When you do a job you need to make it look clean and fix the issue at the same time that’s what a real roofer is.
@@manillafresh57 , yep. If somebody offered me up a hammered dogshit looking repair like that on a million dollar plus house I'd be pissed...it "might" have fixed the problem, but it looks like absolute crap...
USMC Warrior I agree that’s a bs sloppy job I will never let them ppl fix my chimney the funny thing about is tha he’s talking sht about who did the silicone and he just go on top of that and just cover that shit up lol
Next time hire a Mason & not a roofer to re-point or caulk the chimney. 95% of roofers are going to smear Karnak or some other type of roofing shit all over the place like this.
I disagree on using that poly seal where the mortar was missing... you should have used Hydraulic Cement and filled and removed all old and loose mortar. I would have mixed the cement with a 'Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier' to make it more waterproof and to make it stick . A lot better than 'tape and glue'. After cementing I would use this sealant.
I agree with you, everyone has their own way to repair things. I have used Hydraulic Cement in the past. The way you explain how to repair missing mortar is correct but time-consuming. I am showing to make repairs that also last, but in far less time than what you want to do. Economics my man!
@@FlatRoofDoctor some roofs are steep, hard to work on with time consuming and work danger from falling. Not to mention cold and windy. Fast and good fix do job well done for now.
I dunno man, looks a little iffy. Mighta wanted to actually fill those gaps before sealing, patch job looks terrible, and any decent inspector is gonna red flag this anyway... but if you need an immediate fix, i guess this'll technically work.
does that fix the problem because there were many wholes in there? Don't you think the chimney needs to be worked on and fill those lines with mortar first?
Maybe you don't get it. For your sake, I had to remove the caulking in some parts to show why it is not working. If I just said it is no good and don't show, you would still be ignorant. But maybe you still don't get it.
After the turbo poly seal gives out, idk say 5-10 years or however long it lasts in rough conditions, is it ok to reapply directly over the old application or would I have to remove it first then reapply? Thank you, I'm excited and anxious to use it!
Question for roofers I had a new roof put on the first rain my mantle got wet. I've lived here 22 years the mantle never had got wet the roofer came back Andre caulked the counter flashing I asked him to replace the counter flashing as it had been up there 45 years he stated they only replace 10% and mine does not need to be replaced. It leaked again he is pretty adamant that it was coming through the bricks it had rained 2 weeks before and not one drop no moisture at all on my mantle I don't think it's a coincidence anyway roofers my question is what is the proper thing to do both him and me? Thank you
The brick needs to breathe. There is always moist that either goes in or out and if you trap it in the brick, you will cause more damage to the chimney.
We have a stucco house, stucco around the chimney. Our fireplace has caused damage to the asphalt shingles and we now have a small leak. I was hoping to cover the flashing and damaged shingles but not sure if this product is recommended for stucco? Any advice on the shingle? Wondering if I should just replace them. Got a quote from a couple professional roofers to fix everything and was quoted around $2000 which I just can’t swing at the moment so trying to find some good diy options.
Dunno if you got this fixed yet. This method might be OK for a short term bandaid fix but for a real long term repair there are much better repair videos out here. Flashing is tricky. Even if you hire someone to do the work you have to be informed. There are just to many bad contractors out there.
Hi, I'm thinking that the repair may not have fixed the problem if the chimney crown is not fixed properly. It looks like you're still going to get water dripping right down the sides of the chimney and deteriorating the brick. Please explain . Thanks :)
Do you have any old jobs, like more than a year ago, that you can go back and get videos or pictures? I'd like to see what it looks like over time and how it holds up.
Thanks Libby, you are pretty. How about making a video for your channel? Just start with any subject and use your phone and post something. You will be surprise how quickly you develop in a vlogger
Thank you for your excellent advice on RU-vid. We have a leak problem in our metal sunroom roof, and we are impressed with how you test products. We live in Tyler Texas. The turbo poly seal looks like a wonderful problem solver for us. Thanks so much for your demonstrations and advice. Nick and Shirley
The masking tape is what it is. You get it from any store that sells paper or hardware or paint supply. The white fleece that is used in conjunction with the Turbo Poly Seal or Super Silicone Seal is a specially formulated Polyester fabric.
Its not tape, it is a sealant that comes with a Polyester Fabric that is super strong. You sandwich this Polyester fabric between two coats of Turbo Poly Seal as shown in the video
Can I use this where a small shingled roof of a bay window meets the vertical wood shingles on the house? I think I’m getting A leak in there somewhere.
Send me some pics of what you think the problem is and I will be able to analyze the problem for you and recommend a solution. send to this # 203 858 0080
The fact that you have to re point brick work says that something went wrong. BTW, re pointing or grouting is just superficial. Very seldom is that a solution.
Re-pointing is done with mortar & not straight cement because cement is too hard. Only people that are mason's or restorers by trade do it the proper way. Most 'roofers' just go up there & smear shit all over the brick face & call it waterproof.
Best to make apron flashing, chase it into Bricks. Will last forever Main issue why your approach, is anytime metal joint with masonry, you absolutely need to chase it into the substrate. Your only as strong as your weakest link which is the brick and mortar surface you are adhering to. And your turbo poly will pull of the chimney eventually. Turbo poly is great, but not in this application, obviously just my opinion and you are great at what you do, and it will last more than silicone. Just never as much as doing it properly. Also need to remove the old caulking
Ok, so this is the conventional method for many years as you describe " Best to make apron flashing, chase it into Bricks. Will last forever" In my 40 years I have seen that fail 1000's of time on chimneys and walls. 1. Cement does not adhere to metal properly. 2. The grouting used to seal the slot does not last forever as you imply. 3. The expansion and contraction of the metal over a year will work it loose from the grout joint 4. The weakest point of any roof is the flashing. 90% of all roof leaks stem from the specific flashing you are referring too. 5. Just keep on doing whatever everyone else has done for the last 100 years, and think it is good, does not sound very intelligent. 6. I have developed several other techniques to deal with this 100 year old problem. 7. Turbo Poly Seal is for now the best and easiest solution. I have used it for the last 10 years and it beats the metal flashing 100- 1. On Posts, walls, door pans, curbs. It is just amazing 8.Turbo Poly Seal adheres to brick, cement, metal, asphalt, ,wood - what more can I say 9. Turbo Poly Seal is flexible, pliable - it is a game changer. it saves time and it works.
Absolutely, Turbo Poly Seal will stick to everything except EPDM rubber. It is my go-to product for all kind of repairs. Any flashing, skylights, glass and vent pipes, metal or plastic, this product will do the job. In the past I used caulking to seal skylights and never had any success. Since I switched to Turbo Poly Seal, I have never had to go back. It is an amazing product
@@andrewbeaudry9705 Ah, good question. I am not sticking it to the rubber boot. I use the rubber boot just to have a base for supporting so I can make the transition from metal to metal. The rubber is just giving the support while curing. If that brittle old rubber wasn't in place, then there would be a void are and it would be hard to make a transition
For 1 thats not the proper way to do that lol number 2, now your chimney looks like total shit with all that tar and tape all over it. And lastly(I could go on but 3 is enough hopefully) now its going to cost you more because someone who is a professional and knows what they're doing like me will have to clean up that mess you made and its going to piss me off because that tar gets everywhere all over everything and impossible to get off. So I'm going to charge you more. People also have to understand that 90 percent of these videos are wrong because the people making them doesn't know what they're doing either, or they're figuring it out for themselves. Then you guys watch it and think oh I can do that. I'm not complaining thought because it generates work for guys like me hahaha.
In the long run actually repair your flashing and chimney to new with new material because this way will cause you money down the road this is the cheap and unprofessional way
Well, in the amount of time you spent fooling with that, you could have: Cut a brick kerf bent some counter flashing, Applied sealant in the brick kerf Set the counter flashing Tossed a couple Tap Cons or concrete nails, Sealed the heads, Left & Wouldn't have to touch it ever again. It would also look a lot better! I normally like your content, however this one gets a thumbs down.
Hey Robert, Are you kidding me. 1. Cutting a brick kerf - getting the grinder out and set-up time - and cutting - 20 min 2. Set up a brake to bend flashing - tag a brake along for flashing - st up 30 min 3. Sealant?? You mean caulking as they did with already flashing in a "kerf" (that failed) 5 min 4. Get a drill and add "Tap Con" 5 min You must be out of your mind to think that the process you described is faster than what I did in the video. That literally took less than 10 min with no tools but a brush and scissors. BTW. the sealant you are referring too is caulking, and that never last. Ther Turbo Poly Seal covers at least Two inches on either side of the transition. That will seal better and last far longer than caulking that covers barely a 1/4" on each side of the transition. Caulking also shrinks and thats why it always comes loose from the brick or any object.
No you use a cordless grinder it takes a min to put a diamond blade in if you are really slow. To cut and bend an edge on the flashing takes at most 5 mins if you don't do it all the time. And no you don't need a break the edge of a 1x or the edge of a ladder works just fine. As a chimney sweep i reflash allot of chimneys. And the hardest and most time consuming part is cleaning off the goop used by previous people "fixing" the flashing.
Dumb comments. Re-watch the video. He's showing a solution for the home owner to do themselves and said a couple times for them to go pick up a can. Because you know...all home owners have metal breaks.
As a new homeowner with zero experience doing any of the main comments suggestions I appreciate the tips that Flat Roof Doctor gave in his DIY video. I'm not sure which would be better honestly but if the treatment Flat Roof Doctor did works then I'll be doing that. It's very simple to the average homeowner that doesn't have the experience of fixing these things and would normally spends hundreds if not thousands to fix these things.
Bog Roll.. :) No it's reinforced non sticking tape, there's loads of them op the market, lots have fibre glass running in them. They really do add a huge amount of strength to a job.
Repointing is using a cement to fill the slot. Cement is not a pliable material and does not bond to metal. This problem has been existing for many years. Making a transition from cement to metal. But, you are correct, Repointing might work, but, I don't carry cement and water with me. As I was coming down from the higher roof after doing a scupper on it, I noticed this issue on the lower roof. So, in 30 min I had it fixed.
@@audman7895 Not so, I did that repair over 2 years ago and everything good so far. I was referred to this owner by friends I have done similar work. The references are what matter. Most of my work is from references for the last 30 years. You know that your repairs are good when people are talking.
The white roll is Polyester fabric or fleece that comes with the Turbo Poly Seal to be able to cover big voids and cracks. This fleece get sandwich between 2 coats of Turbo Poly Seal
Sorry to hear that Chris. Maybe you would like to expand on your comment and explain why? This particular chimney already had many repairs in the past and nothing lasted. After applying the Turbo Poly Seal all the chimney flashing leaks went away and thus far so good.
To leave things as is, you will not find the problem. By poking around to will find what is loose stuff, what is sticking and not. When you have a pain and you go to the doctor he might poke around to find out what is wrong. Or maybe you might tell him not to poke around because you are fine. lol You don't make sense.
Ok here is what you are missing 1. Do you suppose the chimney was pointed correctly from the start. They surely did not leave it with big gaps. 2. I deduct from what I see that the cement came out and it leaked. Then someone else came and filled the gaps with caulking 3. Then I came and made the transition from the brick to the flashing 4. Then you came and made a remark on what everyone has done wrong so far. I have fixed 100{s of chimney flashings. The cement does not adhere to metal. Cement barely adheres to brick. Why would you then think that pointing it again will be any different_ If cement does not stick to metal, how will that be a better job_
