I'm not a road cyclist, I'm just a commuter with an hybrid bike so this knowledge i guess I'll never use it, but man i love how you explain everything, and take the time to actually show with the camera what you are doing
Been building bikes for some time now but have just bought my first fully integrated frame. This series has been a massive help. Thanks so much! Hope your doing OK.
Thank you for this tutorial, Oz. I love the way you explain things, matter of fact and to the point. I love how you call out the little gotchas that obviously come from a wealth of experience. I've never put a bike together, but your tutorials make me want to try it.
Thanks oz for the upload. I just finished building my own Yoeleo bike using a lot of the tips you suggested. I even posted a video of the build on my channel.
I've been watching your videos for a year now and I love them. I never told you so here you go. BTW, I made the teflon wax lube and went through the three stage cleaning process on mine and my two children's bikes before heading out on our summer bike camping trip. It was so nice to no longer have black chainring marks on our calves and clean hands when putting chains back on after loosing them occasionally ( the various bike camping bags pressed on a number of cables thus making some of our controls less than perfect ). So anyways thank you for your work! And we'll see maybe our chains will last 15K kms!
The issue now though is that Yoeleo, while making a very nice bike, has raised their prices so much that they're no longer a "budget" option. Once they got the word out and got the UCI approval, their prices went way up, which is to be expected. But now you can choose much more budget friendly options on bikes that are built to the same quality for 1/4th the price. Velobuild, Hongfu, Dengfu, all basically the same bikes as Yoeleo for much, much less. And my Superteam carbon wheels that I paid $225 for are still rolling perfectly true more than 10,000 miles later and look fantastic. I know you were one of the first people to introduce us to Yoeleo years ago and what a great budget option they were, but that's just not the case anymore.
Hi, Oz! Thank you for another thorough "real life" tutorial, always a pleasure to hear your advice and see you doing a job right as an example! There's a point here which you might cover in one of your next videos. Tightening hose nuts at the calipers might feel quite confusing without lots of experience. Shimano suggests 5-7Nm torque on these nuts, but you cannot use a usual torque wrench here - just a spanner! When you reach the resistance of the olive forming a seal, it feels tricky where to stop tightening. Too loose may cause leakage, and too tight - damage caliper thread. Your experienced advice on catching the moment to stop tightening would be nice!
Video end is perfect, like best cooking ever, thanks again Steve 👍👏🏻 now let’s finish my PERFECT WHITE R12 with Shimano GRX components 👍 Thanks again from Brasil 🇧🇷 and please stay safe
Hooo awesome! Just in time! I'm gonna swing by the local post office to FINALLY pick up my handlebars, so I can finally start my build. But first I'm gonna watch the video now :)
I'm happy to see that you have the guts to own Chinese branded equipment. Some people like GC Performance on RU-vid trash everything from China. I've purchased 3 bikes and wheels from China and have never been disappointed. A lot of cyclists will say they want to see more people cycling but they are drinking the cool-aide and spewing trash talk about buying from China. Most people here in the US think paying more than $2000 for a bike even today is just way to much. I tend to agree. I would like to see more of the better known bike manufacturers offer bikes with say a SENSAH groupset and some Chinese wheelsets that are better priced than those that companies like Hunt are offing. People are only going to create more competition in the market if they start buying lower priced gear. It's good to see you are onboard with that.
You made that look so easy. i can tell you no bike shop will ever build a bike like this they will cut corners and rush the process because it is not there bike, i want to build my own bike because i know it will be done properly i will use your video as a guide thank you very much.
Brilliant video. If I might add one thing, I like to add some foam tubing to the top tube to protect it against bar strike when the bars can spin so easily before everything is built up. A bare alloy bar will chip paint or worse delaminate a carbon tube if the impact is hard enough.
Your hand placement on that torque wrench should be on the handle. The lower your hand is towards the ratchet end, the more torque is being applied. The setting on a torque wrench is spec'd to use the handle. Moving it forward like that over torques. Quite considerable on some wrenches.
WHAT AN IMPRESSIVE VIDEO SUCH ROAD BIKES ARE SO EXPENSIVE HERE IN AFRICA. IT IS SO HAD TO GET ONE WISH I CAN GET ONE OF THIS I JUST LOVE RACING BICYCLE ..OZ GIVE ME ONE OF THOSE😍 I WILL MUCH APRECIATE
It is also good practice to grease the lever clamps. Those integrated carbon bar are softer than the steel lever clamps and trying to push the lever around a tight bend in the bar can cause the steel clamp to shave material off of the bar. Because these bars are not perfectly round the grease doesn't allow the bar to slip.
Nice video! Very satisfying and calming to watch, I watched it while falling asleep :) And now after waking up I was looking for "Pt2" but then I saw the upload date was very recent
1st set of bleed blocks were hose clamps used during driving the barb into the hose, not bleed blocks. 3rd (orange plastic peice) is a pad spacer. The only bleed block was the one that came installed in the caliper.
One of the best videos on bike assembly I have seen. I can't recall ever seeing guidelines on how short to to clip the housing, even Park glosses over that part from my memory. Do you think you could eventually do a video explaining your preferred methods for the different external cable routings, if you have access to example frames or can do some diagrams? I know of over BB, under BB, and along the top tube for shifters. And how to tell which the frame is built for, and which you prefer if the stops and so on are minimal or reliant on clips.
how much does this frame set cost? is it 2020? how is that possible to buy a product like this and the manufacturer shit on the proper facing of the flat mount.
I still think Ultegra is the best value even. though i have 9000 series on one bike as i got some very good deals on new old stock. I really can't tell any differences to feel or function between the 3 top tier shimano groups.
@@glennoc8585 Shimano should release Di2 options available to mid-tier group sets. Not everyone can afford or justify spending top dollar on top-tier group sets.
I have used on my trekking bike Deore (105 equiv.) and XT (Ultegra equiv.), and on my CX bike Ultegra, Dura-Ace and now GRX with XTR brakes. For road riding I can see no real gains in using anything higher than 105, except maybe for the pedals, which have superior bearings on Dura-Ace, and maybe the levers, where better groupsets may give better modulation. The pistons on my XTR callipers are starting to stick regularly, despite my best efforts. There is very little to callipers (see SickBiker video); and so I will replace them with Deore (£16.99 each at Wiggle) instead of XTR (£104.99 each). It is very easy to spend money where you don't need to on cycling and not spend where you do need to, e.g. good bib shorts.
I think it would be safer to put on the end cap and the olive onto the hose before your hammer in the insert as sometimes the insert will expand the hose and you won’t be able to slide the olive over it.
Seriusly? Just flop the backside to the front and you can get out the parts of the Wrapped Plastic. Talking about the 3:00 Part. Intro looks nice like a total different Person =)
Would like a good recommendation on Road Frame from an old ride, not a racer, a recreational rider. something that would not beat me up on long rides. Please list Brand, and source for a reputable dealer. Love your videos, have got so many great tips, and ideas.
Hey Oz Cycle - The unboxing vid said the the R12 has a BB386 BB - this video you're using BB86 BB - is that the same? Can you link your BB as I need to get on for a BB386 frame with Ultegra crank. Cheers.
Is that a new refurbished bike garage? Very organized. Just building a new frame, but with sram axs. Having built both Shimano and sram, I like the preload crank method of the shimano. Great tips on grease choices..
Question for you Why did you put the older type Shimano Teflon coated cables on your bike, Being a master bike mechanic myself I would never put or recommend these cables. After a couple of months of use the teflon separates from the cable and bungel up inside the housing thuss makes for very poor shifting . That is why Shimano quit making and selling them.
How often do you change gear cables? This seems like it'll be a PITA everytime you have to do it. And when you do it, do you also change the housing? Also not talking about this bike only, the same would happen with an emonda 2021, or any bike with fully integrated/hidden cables...
Hi, i enjoyed your bike building vids, espically tipps like what kind of grease or paste you use. I see you featured some Yoeleo bikes, dont know if you have noticed, they now have a new G1 Gravel frame set, which some interesting specs: Grand Fondo geometry, with gravel capability, and yeah BSA instead of Pressfit. Care to review, if you someday get one?
Hello Oz, I really enjoy your videos, and am interested in doing my first bike build. I like the Yoeleo R12 frame in this video, and was hoping to get some information on how to purchase this frame, and your thoughts on the quality of the frame when you received it as well as the cost. I live on Guam and hope that the company would be able to ship this to me via USPS. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. P.S. Keep making all these great videos👍
Thank you for this video! I wonder, how you deal with rear derailleur cable shorting when turn the handle bar? Isn't it affects the derailleur position (and hence chain) when riding ?
@@stevenleffanue thank you, got it This pariticular Yoeleo frameset has cable-size holes on the bottom bracket area, so that the cable housing goes from the levers to the derailleurs as one piece, right? My Wilier Cento10 PRO unfortunately do not (there are 2 little wholes just for cables itself in the bottom bracket area), so in my case I have to make the cables+cover slack inside downtube, am I right?
Like your videos. Very easy to follow. I have one question. Did you use the right gear cable end caps on the lever end. The ones on mine have a short barb and a locating lug on them.
@@stevenleffanue Mine came with 2 end caps with short barb for levers and one longer barb end cap for derailuer. I’ve just checked Shimano manual and it does show end caps with barbs for shifters. Probably has little effect on function though
