Chinese quad/scooter rectifier/regulator teardown with schematic 

Come on, it's obvious - the sand is simply a generous amount of _spare silicon_ just in case you need to repair your triac or something...

Being filled with sand seems to be common in quite a lot of cheap stuff trying to appear as good quality. I took apart a rechargeable C cell to find it containing a AA plus sand to add weight.

I was looking into similar stuff whilst rebuilding my '90's Yamaha. I was surprised to see how cheaply the original rectifiers were made. Basically shunting out the 3 fase generator to try and achieve some level of battery voltage. This causes great stress on the windings on long trips as a lot of heat is generated. Interesting to see that the Chinese managed to reduce the design quality even further... ! I'd love to see s teardown of a Japanese rectifier regulator! Thanks Clive! Love your accent, grew up in Edinburgh in the 70's...

These are known as "half wave" regulators and yes, it isn't suposed to have a full bridge rectifier as it is useless. Originally fitted on all honda (and chinese copies) style motorcycles after the 70's, when the battery used to just have a selenium rectifier. As the battery and light share the same coil, the battery voltage is kind of regulated. Some bikes even had a 10w resistor that the light switch powered when the headlights were off to improve regulation. Later you have "full wave rectifiers", with only one coil, floating from chassis ground to allow the use of both positive and negative half waves. This allows for a bigger battery for electric starting. You can also turn on the lights with the bike not running. There are of the 4-wire variety (like the one you showed, it's not good to confuse them) and a 5-wire one, with a switched voltage sense to eliminate quiescent current (also the battery won't charge if the bike is stolen)

As the Magneto turns, like sands through the regulator, so is the day or two of our quads.

The lighting winding is used for the headlamp which is the biggest power item. This means the secondary coil and rectifier can be much smaller, cheaper, lighter etc. The big power incandescent headlamp doesn't mind being AC so long as it's voltage is capped at about 13.5v. That is why at idle when the headlight is on on a bike you can often see the lamp flicker slightly.

Hey Clive if you like this stuff I can send you a mountain of it. I go to my buddies electronics recycling place three or four days a week to poke around and they get tons and tons of those cheap Chinese four wheeler’s, Dirt Bike’s, and motorcycles/crotch rockets. The wiring harness simply zip tied to the frame and some of them even have a knock off “brain box“ (ECM). I’ve dissected many of them just to check them out. I keep a modified toaster oven for help with depotting, and various harsh chemicals in different containers. Most of which are kept outside away from the shop and the departing definitely has to be done outdoors! The departing set up isn’t for this kind of cheap module… Because they really aren’t worth the time other than when I dissect them for fun. But I’m always being asked to repair industrial boards that have been parted. Companies like caterpillar bulldozers, miller and Lincoln welders, and many automotive ECM‘s are always parted with the nastiest and most difficult stuff 😆 I always avoid jobs like that. But if the customer iinsists and we absolutely can’t find a board somewhere online… Then I charge about 10 times my normal price 😂

Maybe the sand is part of chinese hourglass based timing circuit :)

Hey Clive - thanks for the video . I have been using exactly these guys for around 30 years and they are amazingly dependable . They do not tend to fry the battery and charge well enough . As a few others have said the lights get dim at idle but the battery charging is actually quite strong at idle and dips a bit as revs go up then stabilizes . The green to earth goes through a ceramic dump resistor 5-8 Ohms on my bikes , don't know if that is interesting for you . Thanks again for so many great videos and your smooth presentation style - much enjoyed .

Years ago I owned a 1971 BSA 250 cc single-cylinder motorcycle. As with many smaller bikes at least at the time, the alternator effectively consisted of a permanent magnet rotating within a coil. Its output was fed to a selenium rectifier, and the "regulator" was a 50-watt zener diode. It did have a battery which of course provided some voltage stabilization but that was the entire charging circuit.

The solution to overcharging batteries on older British Bikes was to use a ZENER DIODE with heat sink ,the lighting circuit was tapped from part of the alternator windings.

I am rebuilding an '80s three-wheeler and replacing all of the wiring and ignition components. Good thing I didn't buy this one, I was looking at it last night.

6:00 The magneto can be crowbar shunted on higher rpms because the frequency is higher and therefore the impedance rises, too. Also the filaments of the bulbs won't flicker when a high frequency spiky voltage is applied (1500 rpm = 50 Hz, assuming a 2-pole stator with a 4-pole permanent magnet rotor) 2:32 The same reason applies to charging the battery, higher rpms let the impedance rise and limit the current into the battery. When the lower part of the winding is shunted (chassis-yellow) the upper part (yellow-white) won't add much voltage to the overall output.

The quad bike I have worked on uses a 3 phase version of this for charging the battery. Due to the large amount of heat it produces, we have had several units fail. On closer inspection, the last two that have failed have also been mainly filled with sand and only potted with resin on the last few mm, supposedly for cutting costs even more, which wouldn't help heat transfer to the aluminium case. Generally when they fail, either the triac (or equivalent component) fails so no regulation happens and the battery is overcharged or the rectifier diodes go open circuit and charging stops all together. The rectifier diodes failing open circuit or the regulator being disconnected has interesting results as from memory, the cdi unit uses a connection to one phase of the stator to drive a voltage doubler to get it to the high voltages required. This relies on the rectifier diodes in the regular to reference this voltage to ground, meaning the ignition system won't work if the regulator fails open circuit or is disconnected. Once the bike is running however, there must be enough capacitance in the wires or some other factor that it will keep running without a regulator, leading to much scratching of heads :). The last time we replaced the regulator, we looked for a different branded one with the wires coming out in a different order of colours, so hoping it is built a bit better. We are also running the headlights on all the time to try to reduce the load that has to be shunted by the regulator and not leaving the engine idling for long periods of time. Fingers crossed it keeps working. EDIT: Remembered that the signal to the CDI unit is just one phase of the stator, not a dedicated coil

That circuit concept has been used widely in simple mopeds and scooters in the last 30 years or so. Simple but effective, cheap to make and very durable. I like it. I built a couple as spare parts for my broke fellow students in my youth. ^^

This type of generator, the same as a bicycle rim generator, is a current source not a voltage source so to turn it off you short circuit it. It still produces it's rated current but with no voltage there is no power. If you were to open the circuit at high revs there would be very high voltages on the coils.

This style of “regulator” has been around for a long time. Years ago I discovered these brute force shunt style clipping regulators on my dirt bikes. Apparently when you fire the thyristor abruptly, the surge of current causes alternator field to collapse. This effectively unloads the alternator and limits the system voltage at the same time. I had originally thought this would waste power and make the alternator hot, but it doesn’t. Crude, but effective.

This has inspired a new game idea: "Here's a waveform, draw a circuit that generates it." Because if you'd shown me that output waveform, I would've had to do some thinking about it. (In the linguistics department, they would sometimes have lunches and play a similar game. They'd hand out a printout of a spectrogram, and the game was to figure out what the person was saying. You had to figure out the sounds, then figure out the language, then translate. Linguists are a strange bunch, but fun at parties, especially linguist parties.)

Way back generators on small engines were just dropped across lead acid batteries or a bit later alternators were rectified and the battery just loaded it down. There was no attempt at any voltage or current control. This works so so when the charge current was only a few amps and the battery was primarily for starting. In some cases a separate coil was used for the biggest load, lighting, to limit the current to the battery. You had to top up the battery with water often and also charge the battery off the mains now and then if you wanted it to live. As the current drain went up in boat motors, power equipment, motorcycles, this scheme was not going to work. So the next step was to put a voltage clamp right after the rectifier. This was a big fat zener diode or a linear circuit that was basically a high dissipation clamp. This keeps the load constant on the alternator, maintaining a predictable idle speed, since small engines don't have the idle torque to deliver much power at idle. But it is very wasteful. Later versions used a SCR or MOSFET and PWM control to short the winding's out. Instead of the linear circuits. Large bikes usually have a 3 phase alternator for more power in the same space. This was the case up into the 90s, till bikes had a ton of power hungry loads and they also started having EFI which can regulate the idle speed. The bigger bikes then got field regulated alternators just like cars at this point.

Hello Clive the way the bigger bikes control and rectify the voltage is very similar to this except they usually use a 3 phase alternator with 3 thyristors one for each phase the voltge is then rectified by a 3 phase rectifier and the voltage sampled and each phase is then shorted by pulsing the thyristors on and off this then regulates the output voltage to around 14 volts this then controls and charges the battery. Its a bit of a sledgehammer way of doing it but it works just fine. It also does not overheat the alternator windings because as soon as it shorts out the alternator there is no current flowing as it is fully shorted and in theory no current flows and therfore no heating occurs during the shorted out pulses. Thanks for the channel by the way all very good stuff.

If they'd used a Triac shunt a bridge rectifier trigger circuit could limit battery charging voltage too. These were fitted the the Honda C90 when it went square headlight (well a variant of this) as the resistor based ballast system was prone to allowing the bulbs to blow. The first 12v CDI C90 with the round headlight just had a zener clamp and 1/2 wave rectifier based regulator. Honda kept the charging system as cheap as possible. The AC fed lights and battery as part of a ballast allows a better power factor load on the stator so allows a smaller stator plate to be used. With the lights on the stator is sized to be just about outputting at its VA rating so the regulator and battery have a pretty easy time.

Nice topic, and nicely presented.. hope you do more on automotive component's Clive 👍🏼

My ignition control module on my 79 granada was potted that way, and it did in fact have issues with moisture

Almost that same Reg was on some outboards, as I had one on mine, I changed it 2 days after I started to smell boiling battery, I had done a check on the old one before removing and found it was pushing 18v into the battery, the new one has a actual output Reg rated max of 14v which has made t safe for all connected to it.

It would be interesting to see a comparison between a cheapo reg rec and one from a Japanese manufacturer, especially as they can be prone to failure over time.

Hey Clive, could you strap a magnet or 2 to a drill bit and spin that with an electric drill in the magneto to simulate things?

Well there is all that sand in there to help spread out the heat, not sure how much that helps, but the thermal cycling along with ambient air pressure changes is gonna make that thing breathe really well so you're probably right about it being a moisture trap.

The old incandescent bulbs work fine with the strange wave-form. I upgraded my headlight to an LED rated for DC or AC (internal diodes?) and it worked but flickered. I upgraded my tail/brake light to LED and the brake portion died. Who knew that a single bulb was powered partly by DC and partly by AC? It didn't matter as long as it was incandescent. I eventually replaced the regulator/rectifier and modified the stator to achieve an all DC system so that I can run all LEDs now.

classic china, fill it with sand to make it heavy to "feel premium", and then put on resin.... Decoratively..

It looks like it's for a 6v system hence the 7v charge limit, your close with the reverse engineer but bridge rectifier will create an noisy dc power feed due to no cap, when high revs it will clip/shunt at 7v. This is why most peds/scooters lights pulse on idle.

The battery is regulated by the very shunt regulator you detailed as it shunts the entire winding. The bridge rectifier is because with lights off both sides will be full voltage.

Eric O recommended this channel. I just subscribed 👍

my friend had an early 80s suzuki and his dad put a headlight switch to shed load while cranking but if you left the load off it would boil the battery. Or that's what I remember. I learned back then not to try and troubleshoot bikes the way I know cars.

i feel absolutely naughty being here at under 1000 views, thank you clive!! you should buy a 49/66 cc chinese "happytime" engine kit as they are known in the motorized bicycle circles, they are fun as hell for the brief period between when you first get them and are still working the kinks out and when the engine is on it's last legs, you usually can get 2-3 years of life from them although i've had as few as 3 months before a engine ripped itself apart internally! my current build is on a 24 inch frame, totally hacked apart and ghettorigged custom just to fit :D ....now to fight myself not to buy a wiring loom... i dont need it, i cant afford it, i just want it..

You know, ever since starting to watch ElectroBoom many years ago, I can't stop hearing: "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!!!" inside of my head everytime someone mentions diodes or rectifiers.

Would the "shunt" also help keep the battery from being overvolted? Since it is a full bridge rectifier, it should do the same behavior on both positive and negative peaks of the sine wave. I guess the thyristor is in the wrong way for that to work, though.

Ahhh thats why when there wet it reads like a large capacitor. I love pointless half wave noisey rectification. I remember my bike light strobing making me fit fall off the bike and waking up in a ambulance. Expensive crap exposed for what it is. Cheers Clive 🤪👍

Could the first component be a triac instead of a thyristor? If so, would this circuit regulate both the positive and negative side to just over 7V - sounds good for a 6V bike system.

Hey there, its completely normal Design. My 1984 yamaha xt 600 has also sand in its cdi box. That Thyristor shortcut design is also the same , even on the later XT 600e Models with elelctric Start and 3 Phase Alternator with 3 Thyristor shortcut design and zener ignite system even without extra switching Transistor. Almost all Japanese Bikes are regulatet this way , but without ac Lights. And yes it collapses the Magnetic Field ot the Alternator , so the Thyristor is not killing the hole Energy,the altornator is able to produce. Greetings from Germany

I’m amazed you were able to un pot it and not destroy it when it was filled with non reworkable potting compound.

Some years ago, I had problems with my old 70´s moped (better call it Mofa- Motorisiertes Fahrrad) with an completly unregulated 6V magneto, that the lightbulbs would constantly burn out. I then tested a regulator from a scooter wich regulates anything higher than 12V to 12V´s, wich stopped that. But I always wondered how these regulators worked due to it needing a chassis ground. Oh and there is very nice webside wich goes into great details about 70 and 80´s Magneots and regulators wich where used in german mopeds in that time.

Great video!

On a Honda (moped) bike which is a 6 volt system the battery is charged with one diode in series (same as schematic) and the 'yellow' wire powers the headlight only OR when switched off goes to a load resistor similar to the resistance of the head light (maybe a bit lower actually) to prevent over voltage going to the battery? so no voltage regulator to be found or needed apparently? (the magneto setup is the same only 6 volt instead of 12 volts)

Bloody hell, I guessed it was going to be low rent but wasn't expecting it to be this bad! I'm glad the majority of these machines get briefly abused, followed by being left for dead when the owner gets bored of it.

Wouldn’t shunting the coil on that half of the sine wave change the voltage on the charging current half of the coil? Because the center tap is now the ground reference?

My previous comment stems from I am looking to use one of these to rectify ac to dc off a snowmobile to power a led light bar. With a capacitor after the rectifier to level out the power. Needing to know where to plug the load, load ground, supply and supply ground. Creating a complete loop since I am using the stock wiring up to where the stock light would have been.

That same unit is on many bikes from China and surprise surprise they always develop electrical gremlin when you wash them or ride in lots of rain

Any reason a triac with a zener controlling it's gate wouldn't work? slap a rectifier on the output, a choke, and a cap to get smoother DC, run the lights and battery charging together.

playing devils advocate, ultra high voltage/current fuses and construction site transformers in the UK are filled with sand too, because it's something that doesn't catch fire

I just went on a two month adventure replacing my motorcycle regulator/rectifier & stator. It was either deal with cheap, non-functioning parts or pay 10 times the price for OEM. 2000 Suzuki Marauder, VZ800

We got a house that came with a riding lawn mower trying to troubleshoot it it's very weird even with the wiring diagram for me to figure out so yes vehicles are weird they have both AC and DC and I only recently found out that a car's alternator is AC with a bridge rectifier that doesn't necessarily filter out all of it to dc. Oh yeah they also use the DC battery as a capacitor to smooth out the alternator which is why you shouldn't run without the battery, however newer Vehicles apparently turn off charging from the alternator after the battery has topped off so trying to run a large load like an inverter could theoretically burn out your cheap alternator.

Is the plastic around the seal hydrophobic or hydrophilic? Could the sand actually be sodium silicate? If so it is a desicant that can be regenerated with heating. Regular use may tend to evaporate moisture and because water vapor expands to 1600× its volume as a liquid, the sand leavs very very very little room for water vapor in the space to condence back into virtually no water after cooling. I'm by no means an expert in this so take all this for what it is worth.

I've got 2 blown reg/recs off my Triumph. Tempted to hack them apart to see where the differences are between the cheapo EBay version, and the eye wateringly expensive Triumph part.

I wondered if some magneto coils are arranged such that each one is referenced to ground (instead of series as shown). Also, since the thyristor essentially shorts the lighting supply when the switching threshold is reached, I wonder what current will flow and whether or not it's stressing the thyristor and/or magneto and/or wiring. I am searching for a solution that can be applied to a 6V system, so I guess (just for the lighting really as the supply to charge the battery seems to be ok, albeit rather crude - just a single diode as per your drawing. So far no boiling etc occurs).

Good video!

Personally for my experience with my three different scooters the first being a 50cc 2-stroke and the other two being four strokes the battery really never retained its charge too 12 volt or higher it seemed every two or three months during the summer I would have to recharge it just to make sure that I had enough energy to electric start the bike and keep the headlight bright enough for me to be seen at night and to be able to see!

This one is full of electronics! I had one with only one diode inside between white and red. And some sand under the sealing mass.

The alternator might have the overcharge protection built-in to it. Most modern-day alternators have the voltage regulator built in.

I had the voltage regulator fail on my late 90's yamaha FZR motorcycle once, I was facing a garage door and very quickly my headlamp got very bright, and then flashed every color of the rainbow at insane intensity before going dim and the bike dying. The headlight's behaviour is what alerted me to the regulator failing

What is this coincidence, I am now working on installing easy chips charging in a phone with a charging problem, the same piece that was explained in the video

The bridge rectifier would make more sense if a bidirectional thyristor was used in lieu of an SCR. Then it would actually provide regulation since it would shunt the lighting winding section and cap the voltage the battery sees. Maybe they over-skimped?

There are some things I don't understand. How is there a negative component AFTER a full-wave rectifier? Also, it seems to me that the voltage divider leaves about 0.3Vin on the zener anode, thus the zener should be active with Vin > 10V. Wouldn't this clamp output over 10V and protect battery from overvoltage?

That should be TRIAC, not thyristor. It clip both sides of sine wave. So that is reason why they use bridge rectifier. And trigger only with positive voltage on gate. That is so called parallel regulator. It short circuit coils. So on lot bike it regulary overheat, or coil burn out, if you drive it with headlight off. I have collection of schematic for CDI and regulators. If you want I can send it to you, so you can see different solution and compare it... It is usually for old bikes, some of them is for 6V systems.

Light run ok on AC no need for rectification but voltage needs trimming to stop bulbs blowing. Charging a battery need rectification the quad I am working on for friend has a three output wire. Ignition is separate inductive pickup. I understand a bridge rectifier. The circuit you have drawn reminds me of circuit on standard alternator. A zener diode breaks down over its voltage threshold. The allows current flow to base of delicate sensitive transistor., the transistor switches the base of a power transistor which disconnects path switching of rotor coil reducing the output. Zener diode switches closed again turning off delicate transistor which in turn powers up the power transistor reapplying ground to rotor. Basically a sensitive switch operating a heavy duty one all decided by zener diode switching. Almost like old school regulators on dynamo which used coil magnetism to move switch basically buzzing away regulating voltage and current.

Seeing how that all works, it wouldn't be too difficult to accommodate some decent circuitry in that little box - there is after all enough space. Decent charging, regulation etc - probably all available via EBay / DX / Banggood so relatively inexpensive, should anyone feel the need to experiment!

The main issue is that the magneto is a permanent magnet DC generator, it works flat out all the time and if not loaded/shunted will produce voltages well over 60 Volts at high RPM. That was one of the early Honda tests, unplug harness rev engine and measure for around 60 ish volts at the connector. So yes it's an incredibly inefficient system still used by 90% of bike makers today. Manufacturers today are now having issues caused by LED lighting, they have had to fit regulators capable of absorbing higher power due to the low current draw of the LEDs. In the case of the 2020 Honda cmx500 with LED lamps they have completely rejigged the harness so the regulator hangs out underneath the bike to try and catch cooling air, previously on the filament lamped models up to 2019 the reg was under the seat.

That was even more bare bones than I expected. I was expecting the old "amplified Zenner" type circuit.

I’m literally going down to my shop to see if I have a sandy one right now lolol

Hi, do you know how to depot a Shingenden voltage regulator, like FA020AA ? Thanks.

I got the opposite , dried it with 3 new rectifiers but only ever see 7 volts at output ?

My Magneto has two yellow wires coming out of it. one should be white I don't know which one is witch? does it matter which one I put the white cable into?

Perfect I need this ❤

Thanks for this. Explains why I seem to have had to replace batteries 3 times. Can anyone please link to a suitable good replacement ? Thanks.

The sand is for safety, it's an HRC-regulator.

Are you sure the thyristor isn't a triac? The circuit looks as if it might work on both half cycles if that were the case. You could try this circuit by connecting it to a lowish voltage (say 24 V) AC supply via a suitable current limiter. This could be a resistor or filament lamp. You could then see what is happening with your oscilloscope.

Things for these kinds of bikes are "built to a price point" and by watching this I can see that the bottom isn't too far off from what we have here... 3:33 - that diagram is almost a bit too naughty for youtube. XD

The overvoltage is accommodated in the battery by electrolysis. Battery water maintenance is a thing for motorcycles with these crude circuits.

Would a 100volt 3,700 or 5,000 or 10,000 Farrad capacitor be dangerous ? I need 100volt because a bicycle bottle or hub dynamo can output up to around 100 volts ac on very fast down hill descents. I plan to use it to make a full wave bridge rectifier as a smoother for my vintage bicycle dynamo lights (because modern mass produced dynamo lights are pig ugly) to stop the very annoying strobing that occurs with the AC & to hopefully enable the light to glow for a few minutes when stopped at traffic lights when the current from the dynamo is no longer flowing - the capacitor discharging into the load ( a 3 watt total of front & rear led bulbs). How long could I expect the lights to glow for before going out completely with these value capacitors please?

Unless stuff on the motorcycle/quad requires AC to operate, it would make more sense to do it like they do on car alternators: put a full bridge rectifier across the coils. With full wave rectification, the battery charging voltage can be a little lower (fewer turns on windings) and with windings not needing to handle short-circuit current ~1/4 of the time, they should be able to use thinner wire gauge too. You also get better energy efficiency and smoother operation from the engine by generating less unnecessary and irregular drag.

It would seam kind of easy and more efficent to do some basic voltage regulation with a buck converter.

Hmm. Interesting. Could the shorting of the generator be an effort at braking? Or perhaps a (really rudimentary, ineffective?) effort at regenerative braking?

Hi sir . How do i check on a rectifier where i connect the stator wires? Thanks in advance

So whats the pin out for it then? I see you scribed a positive top left but what position are the others?

Good. Is it possible to use both coils and feed all its it's dc output to battery to charge battery fast and have lightning being run from battery instead of this pulsing ac? Any way to convert both the coils to charging battery fast.

How do yo depot epoxy? Acetone? How? Didn't work last time I tried on potted led drivers... Do you use heat or ultrasonic cleaners?

Many scooter manufacturers simply state to not fully charge the battery. Some people can actually drain their scooter and keep it at around 40%, only charging to 90% or full just before use (an outlet with a timer set to two hours is usually enough) Which is the best way to keep a lithium ion alive. Which is completely different than a cellphone, where you almost always keep it at 100% when not in use.

I am trying to make remote control Ac appliances switch using CRT TV remote infrared receiver. The problem is when I search on google I found infrared receiver output logical means when I push the remote button sensor output is low. When I not push the remote button sensor output goes high so that means when I connect NPN or PNP transistor in to the out put of the infrared receiver to derive the rely. Rely derives the AC appliances. The problem is infrared receiver output not go low that means normally appliance is on. When I push the remote button appliance not turn of. Infrared sensor output is drop to 0.5 v instead of full. My CRT TV remote receiver module is brand new This circuit is not made of arduino .What is reason behind this please explain.

So it "regulates" by crowbarring the rails when the voltage hits the maximum limit and relies on the impedance of the magneto to limit the current. I guess it get around any issues handling the highly variable spikes and other nastyness which comes out of the magneto but I'd like to think that there is a better way. I suppose the battery will hold the voltage below the trigger point until it is fully charged.

Since the frequency of the voltage is directly derived from the cycle of the engine, I'm guessing that quarter cycle with no load at all is the power stroke of the engine in a two stroke motor. You do not want any extra load at all to hinder the production of power on that stroke. I suspect that they are only charging the battery on the half cycle to reduce the fuel consumption. The magneto is maybe 6 per cent efficient. The energy to charge the lead acid battery needs to come from somewhere and the more power that is diverted to top up the battery ultimately the more fuel that is used. There is a back EMF generated by the coil in the magneto, so the higher the load the higher the force rejecting the direction of movement, so the higher the fuel that is used if travelling at the same speed. And I'd say that it is something similar to the lights, on the other quarter cycle. Again it is to minimise the fuel use.

Clive i have an ecu and 3 phase reg rec off of a yamaha the reg rec u showed is more of just a voltage regulater

Clive my question is. As these take up the duty of heatsinks. Would adding fans to help scrub heat. Help them last. I’ve got a cpu fan connected to a toggle switch wire tied to my Chinese Rectifier with great results. I’ve heard guys lasting years on same Rectifier with a fan. But most don’t want to attempt the job which I used the turn signal line on fuse box for current.

Does the Wrecktifier offer some protection ?

The diode on the transistor's collector can also be removed if the bridge rectifier is simplifed as you describe I think. [ BTW the circuit is loooooooow quality IMO ]

What did you use to make the epoxy soft? I've been grinding mine out for hours. Got to the circuit board, it has two SCR's on mine, I did the lock test on them and both work. But all the other parts are a guess unless I can get the circuit board out. I tried alcohol and that didn't work.

this is VERY useful info. PLEASE do the cdi next. this explains why my battery exploded once. long ride, stopped for fuel, and BOOM when i tried to start again. im guessing hydrogen build up from over charge? i checked it and it was putting out 60VDC at around 1/4 throttle. never figured it out, even the "replacements" didnt work, just went with leds and plugged in a charger every night.

Is Clive correct here?? I was of the opinion that the yellow and white wires are AC coming in from the stator, and that the Regulated DC comes out on the red and green wires ??

Similar weirdness on a riding lawnmower's rectifier-regulator. The isolated charge winding puts out close to 40VAC open circuit and is rated for 15A. All the varieties connected one side of the charge winding to B+, which would limit them to half wave rectification, but beyond that they differ. I finally found a seller whose version did charge but didn't take the wimpy little wet cell battery to almost 18V like the first few I tried: i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/6e29e393-3972/k2-_fd3b94f8-5faa-4ac6-981c-89ba756bceb3.v1.jpg

Very cool, have wanted to see what was inside these as they keep breaking or producing odd results on my cheap china mopeds. Do the CDI next :D

Also make a review of a 3 phase Chinese rectifier regulator circuit.

Hi sir,,how are u? I hope u fine always,,until now i confius about my regtifier my moto,,a over voltage to charnging,,every time i change,,it not long time,my a month,,so i hope u can give me circuit diagram for half wave and with aprotec to accu if accu full,,please!!