There are so many options for scope on the market, so which one is right for you? Rusty breaks down 5 of the key things to look at, and then a whole range of other features you might want to consider.
For PRS scopes that I think are important and why: 1: durability. You’re going to bang up your scope. If it can’t take a bump here and there and lose zero, it’s worthless. My Vortex Razor Gen 1 tracks really well, but isn’t durable. 2: tracking. Pretty straight forward here. We dial on our scopes and they need to be precise. 3: glass quality and reticle design. I prefer a simple Christmas tree reticle. The scope I’m running is the IOR Crusader
I to say that your selection of scope is impressive. I just got another scope from a company that is new to the high quality PRS scope game. If you get a chance look at the Vector Optics Continental scopes. My latest is a 5-30x56 34mm tube. It's nice to read the grass and trees as your following the bullet trace. I'm a fan.
They are not new to this at all, sounds like they are better now though. my last vector would never hold a zero!!! and the scope rings where the worst I ever delt with!!
Athlon Ares BTR Gen 2 are better than the Vector Optics Continental 34mm. Better glass better turrets and more total elevation travel with a zero stop that won't limit total elevation travel.
Seriously thinking about a Burris XTRiii. Durability is my number 1, I would gladly sacrifice glass quality for it. Being in Australia I also think it's important to look at the customer service of the scope companies in case of issues. Country of manufacture also plays a part.
@@steffeness1 No 1-10 is worth buying in that range, unfortunately. Primary arms SLX 1-8 would be my pick in a solid LPVO, consider SFP here as well since you will primarily only need 1x for quick reaction or max magnification for precision work, where the reticle actually works. Everything in between is kinda pointless on an LPVO. Take a hard look at Athlon optics for the other categories. The Ares 2.5-15 is a very underappreciated scope. If you dont need illumination, the Midas Tac 6-24 or 5-25 are extremely hard to beat for that price range. Great Reticles and really good glass for what you pay.
I may have missed it in the video, but tracking is critical. People go to the store and pick the scope with the best glass, but you might as well throw it in the trash it it doesn’t track reliably. You should be able to adjust it up and down left and right over and over and never shift zero. Some of the cheaper scopes will have 3-6% change built into the acceptable tolerance. When you go up in price those tolerances go to 1-2% and then less than 1% on the highest quality scopes. Having great glass may get a scope out the door, but it’ll get returned very soon if it doesn’t have good internals.
Im fairly new in this sport but i'd like to know the turret adjustment is spot on. I can take a hit on glass quality as i only shoot out to 212m regularly or 350m max. I fully cheaped out on my first scope $200 off ebay for a FFP 6-24x50 no regrets. Ill outgrow it soon enough no doubt and slop in the turrets is the first thing i found to be a problem.
Thanks for the review, well done for a subject that is very subjective;) I found with my 3 scope buys for bencrest that it was..... Budget first because finances are finite. Reticle 2nd because that is what you will always see and it should attract you not confuse you. Then try to find best glass with that reticle, again that is what you will always be seeing thru. Lastly, shop around and wait for a sale, I have saved literally thousands this way. Because I benchrest shoot I don't need all the bells and whistles, none of my glass is illuminated so you can save there as well.
Unfortunately, the optic is an area where you can’t cheat the system. If you buy from one of the reputable brands, commonly used in whichever shooting genre you choose to play/compete in, you will meet the durability and reliability aspects. From here glass and reticle make up the rest of the difference. If you have a tighter budget, buy a reticle that makes sense to your head as priority and get the best optical quality you can as 2nd priority. There are many shooters in the top 10 running a certain brand of scope with arguably the most functional reticle, but glass in the rear of the price tier. This shows that glass quality is a lower value on performance return than reticle. That also being said, a lot of the top guys have been moving away from their scope sponsors and shooting Tangent Thetas, because glass quality could help pick up those last few points needed to be on the steps at the end of the weekend. TLDR Version (Starting with 1st Focal & 34mm tube as basic needs): - Reliability (Tracking) / Durability (Hold Zero & Zero Stop): Most Common Brands will be safe. - Reticle: It needs to work with your style (Not everyone likes tree style reticles, even) - Glass: buy the best you can afford after meeting the two priorities above. Parallax applies here - Features: Illumination, Capped/Locking Windage, Zero & Zero Stop Adjustment
The Athlon Ares BTR Gen 2 is a huge upgrade compared to the Arken. Don't have to spend that much $$$. I also own Nightforce, Kahles and March and though they're very good quality scopes, the Athlon Ares BTR and Midas Tac really surprised me how good these Chinese made scopes are and they are in fact noticeably better than the other brands of Chinese made scopes for sure.
I may be mistaken, but I think that the Nightforce SHV has zero set not zero stop. It’s acts similar to a true zero stop but is inferior in my opinion and shouldn’t be a feature on a Nightforce. Scopes a quarter the price include a solid zero stop so any offering from NF should have it as well imo
I run razors now. I love the durability, weight and turrets on them. And the Gen 3 zero stop is next level. Unless ZCO does a zero stop with that kind of ease ability I’ll stick with my gen 3’s from now on. I think what they did on the zero stop is phenomenal.
For me it’s quality, toughness, reliability , clarity of the lens , repeatability of the dial adjustments. if I were looking for a good PRS/Tactical scope that will get knocked and banged about and dropped and thrown around by big burly baggage handlers at airports I’d buy the Nightforce ATACR.
I'm currently running at s&b pm 2 but looking for an upgrade to an Christmas tree reticle in the new year , and probably go with an s&b 6-36x56 pm2 , just used to there scopes and to keep the same turret rotation.
Image quality on high magnification and spot on reliable tracking and no questions asked lifetime warranty including their electronics IE Illuminated reticles are most important.
Not sure if you answer comments, but I would love your thoughts. I was thinking of going with the best Arken scope for my PRS gun, but on Reddit, people said not to buy them because they aren't that good. I feel like their best scope is just as good, from what I have heard, as many other scopes that are nearly double the price. For example, the Arken is just shy of $500, while a Vortex Strike Eagle is around $1000. As someone who has these in your hands, what are your thoughts? Do you think there is a better middle ground?
I have a Vortex Viper PST and at 300 yds I can barely make out my 5-223 shot groups What scope will allow me to see my shots ? It would be nice if one of you RU-vidrs would go to the range and set the same target with a 5 shot group @ 200, 500, 700 & 900 yds and show us what the view looks like.
I have not used that make before, I shoot a lot of long-range, typically use US Optics or Nightforce, turret durability ( they are used a lot when shooting LR), glass and reticle are a big deal at 2000m.
I’ve always heard you spend more money on optic than the gun. However, if you have a cheap .308 ($7-800), there’s no reason to buy a $4000 scope. It depends on how much money you want to throw away. I guarantee you you won’t be upset with a $4000 scope but if you have need of that extra $2000-$2500, put it elsewhere.
MOA seems handy for estimating range but the numbers get to big to quick for fast adjustments. MRAD is not "more accurate" just much more efficient. The majority of US precision shooters have switched to MIL if there wasn't an improvement no one would have switched. MRAD doesn't care the units (inch or cm) it is just a base ten system. 1 MIL is 1 inch at 1000 inches (1 mil = 1/1000 of the distance)
Tangents have the gold standard on turrets unmatched. And the glass and top secret coatings that delete some mirage. They have found a super formula it is proprietary secret. One of the only scopes in the world that can deal with mirage.
