This video helped answer some questions I had about potentially purchasing an HVLP vs Airless sprayer for my small home improvement business. I do quite a bit of finish work and more and more painting lately, and I do ALL the painting projects by brush and rollers. I'm prepping the exterior of a house now to paint, and I have an interior paint project I have started in the kitchen and dining room to be continued throughout, and I REALLY don't want to do the rest by hand. Thanks for the tips and helpful videos you provide for we aspiring pro enthusiasts. The 35 years of doing things the hard way are finally catching up with me :)
When it comes to choosing between HVLP and Airless, it depends on the application. You definitely don't want to use an HVLP on walls... An airless is best for cabinets (especially if using a solvent base finish) however, an airless can work too. Most home paint projects can be done with an airless. HVLPs would only come in handy for cabinets, and metal rails/gates.
Hi guys, love your channel! I re-finished bathtubs, tile showers, countertops etc with an hvlp turbine system for 12 years shooting mostly single stage urethane. Back then it was mainly 3 stage turbines so the material had to be almost over-reduced to get it to atomize properly. Using so much reducer creates a whole host of problems. But i bet this machine could spray single stage un-reduced. Kinda makes me want to jump back into the fine finish game again! Almost...😂
Very informative. I recently stumbled on all the hvlp systems. Would be great to get a video comparing the differences between the compressor, turbine, and pressure pot systems. Consider making a masterclass.
4 stage turbine and you can spray anything you want. 5 or 6 stage - even better. Best value for the money - Fuji. Tiny turbine, lasts 800 hours, guns have the least overspray ever.
I just had a cast iron garden tub refinished by a guy using the fugi q5. Did an excellent job. I may buy one to paint my cabinets, interior trim and doors
@@LVCID777 Q5 is an overkill. An alternative to using HVLP is a quality airless hand held gun with a fine tip. Or a regular airless with a hose and fine tip. But be aware that not all airless can handle solvents.
ok I fell a bit asleep while he was talking but his has good knowledge I think with a good presentation and some more coffee it may be really entertaining.
I have a Fuji 4-stage Q4 Platinum and am constantly wondering 2 things- (1) if I should have gone Apollo, and (2) seeing as I spray a lot of Latex(ish) stuff- if I should have opted for a 5-stage unit. The Fuji has been good, and I have successfully completed cabinet painting jobs with it, but I feel like I have to thin my product a little too much. I typically use Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd. I have tried a 1.8 and 2.0 tip size and always find myself needing to adjust my air and material flows. It seems like it is affected by the amount of room in the pot on the gun. The more room there is the better the paint atomizes. I have never sprayed any low viscosity products like lacquer or poly, but it seems like my unit might be better suited for those tasks. I have had great results with my Graco 495 and FFLP tips using the same products and I can consistently dial the exact pressure on the pump for repeatable results. I may have to go that route if I can’t get the Fuji to run! Do the pressure pots make a big difference for the problem I described?
I have 60 gallon air compressor and a even bought a graco airless sprayer when I repainted the exterior of my home and garage. The wife bugging me to do the kitchen and instead of buying new cabinets I want to paint them. That is what brought me here. I am going to do the cabinets but I don't see me doing anything else as I don't do any woodworking any more due to health issues. Will a HVLP siphon gun they got at Home depot (Ingersoll rand gravity feed $98) hooked up to my air compressor get me through this job?( approximately >100 sqft) She won't go for a several hundred $ Fuji system and I don't think those $120 Wagner's won't get me the finish I want. She wants to do the rustoleum cabinet system and just use foam brushes. I'm sure the color may come out ok but the finish is going to end up with air bubbles and boogers (lol didn't know what else to call those). Any thoughts? And yes, I should hire a painter but I'm on disability now so that's an issue. Lol. Thank you
HVLP sprayers? My air-assisted airless guns are HVLP. Yes, turbine guns are HVLP, but they're turbine guns. Derisively, they're known as vacuum cleaner guns. I have several of them, Accuspray, Graco, and Croix, all of them HVLP, all of them turbine guns. Call them turbine guns. My other regular guns are called C.A.S. (compressed air supply) guns. It's more important to know where the gun gets it's atomizing air than it is to know how much air is coming out of the cap. Accuspray conversion guns are also HVLP, but being conversion guns, they draw air from a compressor and inside these guns are venturi valves that convert high air pressure to high air volume.
Great video. I wonder if we can use something like Dewalt 5 horsepower portable vacuum (with a blower function) with a HVLP gun. I think something like it can be quieter, cheaper and stronger (more air volume) than a stage 5 machine as long as we can connect it to a flex hose. Dewalt even has a remote.
Lol did you say ow or out at the end of the vid? Sorry to hear about your back, that’s why I thought you said ouch. Anyways, thanks for the info and breakdown. I use the first HVLP unit you showed, the Fuji model. I’m now more educated on how these machines work and use/techniques as well. Thank you!
He won't give you the greatest advice. If you know what's what from his videos you can see that cabinets he does are sprayed ok but not great. This channel appeals to a mid-level mindset - get the work done, but not the best. It's a money generating channel. Primer - alkyd solvent based or a lacquer undercoat. Spray with up to 2 mm tip. Reduce with lacquer to be able to push it through the fine nozzle. Dry time - 30-120 seconds. Fills all voids - it is basically a "primer filler" (used to even out tiny scratches etc). The result is an absolutely smooth surface. It is great for priming MDF - priming is done in minutes (with other primers the edges soak up any other primer or epoxy, basically impossible to prime unless you wait hours and spray and sand between coats). Top coat - nothing beats polyurethane. But you can spray latex using Flowtrol. Even with a 1.8 mm superfine tip. The other option, non HVLP, is fine finish nozzle on an airless sprayer. But the hose will need 1 quart of material to just fill.
@@GreatWhiteNiko I'd rather stick to waterbase since I'm working in people's houses. Oil primer like cover stain doesn't smell once dry but takes 24.hours to. And I won't touch bin I value my health
@@als4817 Recently I started using Zinsser BIN primer - the one that is shellac based. No VOC like the lacquer undercoater or other fast dry alkyd solvent based primers. Get a quart and give BIN a try. Dries in about 2 min. Spray with at least 3 stage HVLP turbine, 2.5 mm tip, air wide open, no need to reduce with alcohol. Super nice coverage. But you must clean the gun with alcohol as soon as you are done and take apart and scrub all parts (5 or so really). Good luck.
Apollo 6 or graco 9.5 for renner paint? Looking at using the renner vertical paint without thinning and Ive heard with the Apollo 6 you don’t need to thin it.
Just wonder if I should get a apollo non bleeder system over the bleeder system. I would be getting a 4 stage turbine system just don't know about the non bleeder vs the bleed. I'm currently painting my 4200 sq ft house interior trim by using a brush and think a hvlp system would help me get through the job faster with a better finish. Any advise on the apollo system would be greatly appreciated.
No waste of material. Airless you need material to fill the hose. WIth HVLP you may waste 1 oz of material if you use a suction cup. With a gravity cup - zero waste. But HVLP guns need special cups to spray uspide down (cabinet door underside). Also overspray is more with HVLP compared to the 310 fine finish.
The digital readout is patented 🙄 I'm sure it would take any company all of 2 minutes to find prior art and challenge that patent. A million things have digital readouts, including readouts for pressure. I'm sure the patent is actually covering something else or was just written to be so confusing and hide such a simple "innovation". Good idea? Sure. Patentable? Give me a break.
Do you reccomend a HVLP sprayer or an airless sprayer. I need something to basically do it all ( paint a house, automotive parts, stains etc...) appreciate the channel !!
Bro what is the best brand of paint to use for like my garage I just had all new dry wall put up yesterday i hear a lot of trash talk about almost all the paint brands i look up so I'm really confused on what paint to use for indoors i need some answers i want my paint job looking good with some high quality paint that last
Make sure you use a primer for new drywall . Either sherwin Williams or ppg will help you but make sure you dust all the new dry wall off so no dust is on it and then clean what ever fell on floor and shake soft industrial broom off out side as well there cheap like 10 to 20 bucks or bunch of towels . And then 2 coat primer and 2 coat paint use a water base so easy to clean as well . I'd use a satin finish it's a garage and its be easy to clean if you care for it to be clean.
Uh...no. I went to the link because of your comment and the first thing there is the Apollo Sprayer. Don't know what you clicked on. Are you just trolling...trying to get a response....??
You can do it but you need experience spraying. And the downside is that you need to spray 3-4 thin coats and wait in between. Solvent based materials are superior and that's the way to do cabinets.
@@GreatWhiteNiko yeah true but id rather not use way more toxic chemicals. sure if you have a SHOP with all proper ventilation thats one thing and you could prob get a few thousand more per job. 90% of people DONT clean their cabinets. and if they do its just dawn soap and water so its not like you must use solvent based finishes
Jon Vanlandingham do u realize the size Compressor you would have to own just to be able to get the results that this hvlp unit can achieve not very mobile Go to any car body shop in the country and look at what size compressor they have essentially the same thing good luck lugging that compressor around!
@@rsharpe1985 I work in the painting industry using HVLPs and we are mobile. I've found you need a compressor with a min of 9cfm. I know lots of manufacturers recommend 14cfm with a 50 gal tank, but its not necessary in my opinion. But more air will help get a finer finish.
You need a large capacity compressor or you will be burning out the type most contractors use for pneumatic guns. Plus, there is no need to filter the air of moisture or other contaminants. Plus the air is warmed from a turbine which can be beneficial.