I like betweens. But I am frustrated that they don't sell the thinner ones in the typical stores I have around here. Number 9 was the thinnest I could get. I wanted a 10 or finer.
@@johannageisel5390 is hear you! I have a hard time finding decent betweens. I used to find good ones I the quilting section, but lately the quality us terrible!
*looks awkwardly at my little round plastic container of "Assorted Quilting Needles" that I grab needles absolutely random from because none of them are labeled*
You are the ONLY one who explained how to choose your needle based on what you're doing, and WHY it will work better, rather than listing what each type of needle is called and typically used for. Thank you. I've watched all the other RU-vid videos on the topic and yours is the best most useful one. :)
Very good tutorial. I have been exploring the world of sewing for almost 50 years. Started by making clothes for my dolls and bears when I was small and I still prefer hand sewing to machine sewing. All the sewing I have done in the past was based on very little knowledge of what I was using. Back then( almost 50 years) we just reached for the nearest things in the sewing box and used what we had on hand. But lately I am trying to pay attention to learning more about needles, threads, and matrials and taking more care in what I do. I began with making a sampler. I gathered many different types of threads, based on weight and fiber; then buying different types of needles, based on function and by maker. I arranged all my materials and started taking notes as I sewed. It taught me a lot about the materials used and how they affect a project, and I also discovered what I like and what I dont like. I also checked my old pincusion to see what needles I had been using and found I prefer sharps for hand sewing clothing and sashiko needles for hand quilting( big stitch) quilts. They don't teach much of this in sewing classes in school; in the Air force , where i learned industrial sewing; or on the job, in many different factories I worked for 30 years. It is good to keep learning.
That's wonderful! Experimentation is a big requirement to figure out what we like! I always say that the 2 best teachers in life are experience and failure
Why do your videos not have more views?! This is good, helpful, entertaining information. Thank you. And looking forward to watching this channel blow up! Cheers. ☀️✨
I am overwhelmed by all the information in this, and I'm barely halfway through. I keep rewatching the "types of needle" section over and over and feel like I am still missing something. I had no idea there was so much complexity involved in this...
It can be overwhelming for sure! There is a ton of information, but don't let that stop you. Pick a needle that you like to work with and you can always test out other needles as you go.
1) There are also "doll maker needles" that are extra long in case you have to stitch through a very thick project, like making a heavy pillow - or a doll's body. 2) I saw a video sometime back (can't remember where, surely RU-vid >_< ) that addressed the SHARPNESS of the sharp needles. The videographer had close-ups of common brands sold in fabric stores in the USA versus needles sold in Europe. The difference was astonishing! The USA needles were like blunt instruments, while the imported ones were polished with sharp tips even in close-ups. She compared different brands, but I don't remember which she found to be the best ones.
I just discovered your channel. I am a quilter and do hand piecing and quilting. I use a number 10 between and just discovered Bohin that I ordered online, and do I love them. Now I just have to tackle learning to use a thimble.
I'm currently more of a knitting needles person, but I'm learning and this gave me all the information I need! I'm looking forward to some new sewing projects this year. Thank you!!! 💜
I wish to know how to fit a thimble to my finger. I know that thimbles come in different sizes but don't know how to measure my finger to match my finger to the thimble.
It depends on the material. If it is very tightly woven, you want a sharp with a higher gauge. If the weave is loose, then you can go with a thicker needle. If you are using padstitching or if you are quilting, then you may want to use a between.
I am reatly genjoying your videos (sitting down and watching all of them today). Good info! I notice here that you mention 3 kinds of needles with lots of great info about the first two kinds, but did not address needles for decorative sewing. I expected you to mention tapestry (oval eye, blunt point), chenille (oval eye, sharp point) and possibly Japanese handmade needles (excellent for metal passing thread because the eye is round) in the last category.
Thank you! Yes, in this video I was focusing more on needles for clothing construction. Decorative stitching needles is a video all its own and I just don't think I could do it justice at this time.😊
What does it mean when the needle pkg say it is size 5/10? (or other slash/ description?) I have been sewing for more than 50 years, and always just looked at them to see if they were what I wanted to use... generally thin and med. length. Now I go to buy them, buy them, and even a size 9 is like trying to sew with a NAIL. They are HUGE! THICK!. And that is Dritz. II know I have never had anything fancy in a needle, but please help me. Just doing regular things like a hem, basting, etc.
Usually that means that the package includes those range of sizes. That is interesting. I usually order my needles and I prefer John James or Richard Hemming & Sons. For general sewing, I would look for Sharps in a size 7 or 8. I prefer short so I use betweens, but sharps are longer and most other sewists I know prefer them. I haven't used the needles from the sewing shops in a long time because I have found the quality to have gone down over the years. I know ordering online can be a pain, but I know I am getting better needles, so that's what I choose to do. I don't know if this answer is what you were looking for, so feel free to ask more if it doesn't make sense.
@@ThimbleAndPlume thanks for getting back to me. I may have to order online. I am just so used to SEEING, rather than going by a size. I like something a bit longer than what I have come to know now as a between. Thin and slick, not thick as a NAIL! The eye can be round-ish or long -- just get it through the fabric!!! Are you ordering from Amazon?
Hey, @@ritasmith9553 - I'm in the same boat as you, so here's what I did so I could learn sizes and types. I rewatched her video and took notes. Then I went to the links she gave and picked one. I picked B Black & Sons because they have the most array of sizes and types in stock of Richard Hemmings needles (the kind she said she likes) AND their site is easiest to navigate (Amazon is a NIGHTMARE when you try to find a specific thing - their search doesn't just give you the thing, it gives you tons of "similar" things first - I HATE THAT! I DON'T WANT SIMILAR THINGS! I WANT THE THING!!! lol). Anyway, don't be afraid of B Black's shipping price listed when you check out - they adjust it down - call them and they'll explain. Finally, I PURPOSEFULLY AVOIDED "assortments" since they aren't labeled and I wouldn't know what size I was using. I bought two or three packages each of sharps and milliners needles, trying to pick small, medium, and large out of what they had in stock so I can try them all to see which I prefer (and so I'll have them for different fabrics). Then I threw in a medium size of betweens just in case (I'm like you and don't think I'll like a short needle, but wanted to try them to make sure). I got some crewel needles, too, since they said they're exactly like sharps but longer eye so will fit larger embroidery threads, which I have a lot of. All this for about thirty bucks. Cheap lesson, I think. Hope this helps!
@@Liberal.Linda. Yeah, thanks for your input. I keep researching, myself. I'm thinking size 9 or higher, -11-12 if I can get them; and the Gold eye kind is what both my grandparents used to say to get (some 50+ years ago!, LOL) Walmart only has size 7's (like trying to sew with a giant nail or a railroad spike!) I got 9's at Joann, but they are absolutely the largest I'd want -- and marginal at best. AND THAT IS FROM DRITZ! What is this world coming to?!? We're talking about BASTING, and HEMMING, and sewing on BUTTONS! Nothing fancy! Can you believe it!? I'm going to check out your plan too, and see if it sheds some more light on this! thanks again!
Do you maybe know some needles that would be at least somewhat historical accurate for the 15th century? Or what could be used at an medieval reenactment event?
It depends on what part of the world you are recreating. Due to the need to sew fine silk fabrics, China had steel needles as early as 200 BCE. But, they weren't being used in Europe until the 1300's, and prior to that, they were using bone needles. So, you may be able to use modern needles depending on where and when you are reenacting.
@Thimble And Plume Thank you. That's so good to hear! That would be Germany, to be more precise Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It is near to Nürnberg. I only ever found thick brass needles in Reenactment Shops, but they would only do more harm to the fabric I think 🤔
What's wrong with cheap needles? I've been using needles from Michael's (and other craft stores) and never encountered an issue. But to be fair, I don't sew much. So I'm just curious why cheap needles are bad, because as a novice, it's not immediately clear.
Great question. I am talking about some of the super cheap ones. Sometimes they have burrs, or aren't very sharp, or the eyes have extra metal in them. These are the worst when you are sewing with silk or other fine fabrics. Also, if you do hand sew often, the needles bend after a while, and I find the higher quality ones bend sooner. I have also had them snap on me. The higher quality ones also tend to slide through the fabric better. And it really isn't a big difference in price. A couple bucks at most. I do a lot of handsewing, so its worth it to me to spend more.
What brand is a good one 🤔 I have problems my yarn getting cut and it's very frustrating specially if you are Habdycaped, I can do only stuff very short times becourse I'm getting strong pain because of my sickness.
Here are the brands she mentioned as quality (also written below her video): John James, Bonin, Colonial, Richard Hemming and Son. Where I live I've only been able to find John James and Colonial - both excellent.
