the gaps under the feet is what we call "soft foot" in the industrial mechanic world...can take out machine bearings and break feet real quick :) good job...doin it right....boil cases real good in water and wash with acetone helps with welding
Keep making videos, man. I'm happy I came across this today. I'm at the stage just before I tear down my entire Evo big twin build for finish welding and paint. I didn't check for gaps and possible shimming needs during mockup. For guys like me, who are doing 100% of their projects on their own, it's rad that there's people like you sharing the knowledge freely. Keep on keeping on. Subscribed!
Another great video bud. You make it a lot more understandable and see how a little mechanical ability can go a long way. Thanks you take care and stay safe.
Dude i absolutely enjoy your videos! I’ve learned so much from your channel compared to others and im a green horn when it comes to choppers and bikes in general!!! Keep on keeping on man your a great teacher 🤟🏽
I am Your subscriber from Latvia (little country in North Europe). Thanks You for interesting videos and content. At this moment I ride Kawasaki Vulcan, but want build my own classic hardtail chopper, like in pictures of David Mann. Thanks again, bro!
Good video, good to see people still wrenching out there, lot of AMA card carrying riders these days, not like days gone by when there was a brotherhood of riders that would help each other out. I came looking for a refresher on shimming, as I am in the process of putting together a 1983 FXWG.
I have an Evo Sporster chopper but I am seeing now, that this is good for me too. Thanks! I will run through the bike tonight and make sure I don't see any gaps that could be an issue later. Thank you!
all good stuff!!! I thought this was going to be about shimming the front "sprocket" so the basket and front sprockets were in alignment... i.e. center line to center line... I love the technical stuff, it's all good!!! thanx for making good videos... 👍👍
I just found your channel and wish you well! Here are my shows ideas for great content. Well filmed, close ups where necessary, clear sound and show us everything even if you think its too simple. The type of builds you do are perfect. We all need advice on making stuff fit on old choppers, get them running, fixing the broken, cool ideas, timing secrets, carb tuning, running electric and brake lines. Upgrading parts and anything making it fit on choppers. Love pans and knucklesis a plus and engine rebuilds, heads, hot rodding etc. Thanks We'll support you. Its perfect its the everyday man in the garage so we can keep these old rides running. I'm looking for real education and doing it right. No f ing cheese like those pineapple podcasters boys who just throw up goofy shit
A friend bought a '54 Pan with a busted front motor mount. The last time I installed both my tranny and engine ('62 FL) I used a dollar bill to check the fit. I shimmed one front mount just a tad. Speaking of dollar bills: any of you guys with STD Pan heads see if you can slip one between the tin top and down post. I couldn't. I can now. I don't run a drive pully flange. The BDL 2" runs right to the edge. I considered tossing a washer under the pully to bring the belt inside, but I don't have enough threads to space it out. 'Sides, I've ran it like that for years with no problem. Oh yeah, and when I'm traveling I carry both a chain kit (breaker, master and half link) AND a spare primary belt.
im nucleaur power lazer line-up specialist! = i align motors and pumps to 1.5 thousands.. human hair= 10 . thousands. im would shim all to correct.. then too capitalize on non -cracking /level/ bonus vibration equal= add hard rubber shim to each or the same size.. #2 tip- take the time too make pusher nuts to ajust tranny.. 2x nuts /and ajust bolts.. on the metal plate = easy ! luv -info on belts.. savage 650 my first belt and im live dirt rd. so hopeing belt is way better at low maint. /lubed chains catch dirt soo bad and eat them up like sandpaper. belt or next i try driveshaft !
Hey man. Just came across your videos and really liking em. Keep it up. That's an awesome shop too. I came across an issue on my '71 shovel. The inner primary 5/16 bolt that go in the case are stripped. Turns out they already have helicoils and new ones won't hold. Maybe you could comment on the best fix for that in a future video? Do ya go up to a 3/8? Weld the holes and re-tap for 5/16? Thanks!
Have a pro street fxr frame bike & bought a Paughco four speed frame, to house the evo motor. The five speed has a Baker cluster, and want to install a softail transmission case. I’ve seen a photo, of how to notch the ear, for the swingarm. Main reason, for the five speed is, I have most, and just need a softail case,( which is not much $, then at 67, kicking is not what I want to do, I’d like to push the button & go. I’d love to hear everyone’s opinions, thanks!
Hey Cody what should I do about the chain oiler and the return oil lines at the oil pump? I’m not sure I trust what I’m reading online. Thanks for the vids keep up the good work👍👍
Good stuff! I think this is a really useful info for the newbies with these bikes and maybe for some of the more experienced fellows too. Whats that cylinderhead oil line setup on that mock up motor? I've been looking for that kind of "split" lines for my shovelhead. Its a way better idea for cylinderhead oil line routing than the OEM.
Hey man. Got some good tips from this video. Im currently building a 77 fxe and have swapped out the swing arm for pan head style. Could you give some tips on rear wheel alignment and spacing? Cheers!
This is right where I'm currently stuck building my first bike. I could not find this info anywhere. Question should the front pulley have any spacers behind it or should the stator. This bike I have came with a chain primary and I've pieced together a belt but still trying to figure out what I'm doing.
There shouldn’t be a spacer after your stator cover. Just the pulley. Some stator setups have a spacer inside some don’t. That depends on the kit you got.
All 3 of my shovelheads are original twin belts (two Sturgis and a Disc Glide), in original encased configuration. On one FXB i offset the inspection cover about 1/2" to have some belt cooling airflow. Smart or total nonsense ?
Just installed a throttle addiction kit to a sportster, about to paint the frame. Had a guy on RU-vid say the fine pitch threads for the axle adjuster is not good and should be replaced with a normal Harley thread pitch instead of the fine, should I make this change before I paint the frame or should the fine pitch threads be fine ? Thanks Cody
They are completely fine. I don’t see any reason why that would be a problem. The big twin older bikers,(panhead,knucklehead) all used fine thread axle adjusters.
Any chance of a trans rebuild video on checking end play and a completely rebuild ? I have yet to see one that goes into checking and setting proper end play on Rachet top
You’re belt Will 1000% walk off if you don’t have the lips on the rear Clutch basket and front pulley. You might not need the front but you 1000% need one on the front or Back or Or will walk Off
If you align the belt properly it will 1000% not walk off. I’ve been running that same belt for thousands of miles with no problems. I’ve built over 10-15 bikes running the same setup and the only time the belts walk is when the trans comes out of alignment.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 possibly with the old style ones where you don’t run a backing plate and can adjust the tension on the belt but 9 outa 10 belt drives will walk off of at least one of the pullies doesn’t have a lip
