Chrysler 440 - 505 Stroker RB Big Block Part 6 - Wrapping up Balancing 

Its getting to be an effort in spending money these days. It amazes me to look back at when i started building engines to what it costs now to build one. I couldn't imagine building a competition engine these days for less than $100k. Too rich for me.

@Phil454LSX It is crazy how much it costs. Availability is even worse. Just fuel to get us through the season is out of hand. Hats off to anyone diving into this.

@@ronzezulka6646 There are less and less people doing this Sh*t. Hence, machine shops going out of business right and left. I love building and doing it on the side, but as i lose more and more trusted shops to retirement and bankruptcy, i will pack it up too. Its easier and cheaper to buy a crate engine or a used one.

@@ronzezulka6646 i got into the machining and engine building business when i was 18. I have learned A LOT through my years and this 440 customer has stuck with me since day one. I stick by him and always try to hook him up. I have engine dyno tuning experience and chassis dyno tuning experience as well as Nitrous, SCT and Hondata training. Its just getting out of hand to build cars and engines these days. This business is getting too out-of-hand to continue in it anymore. Don't be surprised if my channel shifts to BBQ and smoking meats. This will probably be one of the last engines i build for awhile, although, i do have a 340 on the horizon.

@@Phil454LSX Lol,,,I left the drag racing world years ago. I now own a restaurant/bar that specializes in smoker meats.

@thomaslynch2083 Good to hear and imagine that ... aftermarket parts not fitting right, that NEVER happens, lol. The Right Stuff is definitely some killer sealer and good luck if you have to take it apart again. It's more like super glue for metal. As far as cleaning gasket surfaces, I just use lacquer thinner (preferred) or brake kleen because they dry quickly and leave no residue. Then i use ultra gray Permatex where needed. Why i use ultra gray is a long story, but any "ultra" silicone will work. The only reason they still make the non-ultra silicone is because old school guys still buy and use it and last I knew, it was still their all-time best seller. I used to attend Permatex's trainings/sales pitches once a year. The Ultras far supercede the old stuff.

Oh Man, one of my buddies had a CJ7 (I think) at one time with a 304 in it, he said it was a death trap, lol. Also said that it would chirp the giant tires in all 4 gears and you could feel it squat and twist every time. So, this engine was originally going into a '64 Dodge 330 when we started, but he sold the car. At the moment, the plan is to put it into a '71 Dodge Demon ... The Red Screamin' Demon built into a super stock car back in the '70's by Petty Enterprises, to be exact. Yes, he bought THAT car. If you are a Mopar guy, then you know it, or you can google it. The owner is a huge classic drag nostalgia buff. The Demon is at or is going to the body shop to have the engine compartment sprayed and touched up and we are looking at a Fall-ish return. I hope to be finished by then or shortly after. I don't have access to a dyno anymore and I don't think he'll be spending the money to dyno it. I have some stand alone wideband O2's that we will use to dial it in, fuel wise. The heads are a set of Aluminum Trick Flow Power Port 270's and I have a high rise dual plane Indy intake for it, but we may switch to a single plane now that the car has changed and he has more hood clearance. The cam will be a custom grind, but nothing has been decided on as far as manufacturer, roller or flat tappet. We are seeing some guys breaking these blocks at the 750+ horsepower threshold. We bought the block from a Mopar nut that I know and he warned us of the 700+ threshold (he said) and he was a Mopar machinist for Ray Barton. It may get a main girdle before it starts going together or it will just live somewhat of a detuned life. The plan is 80% street time, 20% track time. I leisurely work at it as I have time. I have this thing called a full time job that takes away from my side work and projects but new videos will come as I progress. I plan to post a video of the first start and running when it is done. That is the plan, anyway. Stay Tuned and thanks for watching.

@@Phil454LSX Well I guess you could call me a Mopar guy, have owned one 426 Hemi in a 67 satellite, dana 60 4/speed, one 67 GTX 375 hp auto, then swapped for a sixpack set up, one 68 Monaco 350 hp 440 auto, one 66 satellite 340 4/speed or basically all Mopar's with a few exceptions. Currently own a 66 satellite, not sure what is going in it when I get the money to build what I want, if I could hit the lottery, it would be a 426 Hemi w/5 speed standard. I only have three 340's, 7 383's, 7 440's, 3 400's, 1 360 Magnum, 1 360 la roller, 3 360 la, 1 318 la, 1 318 roller and 1 5.7 hemi in my 07 ram and 1 5.7 hemi in my 09 300c. Yea I guess you could call me a Mopar guy. My CJ5 is slightly modified; after straightening the frame I boxed it, built the cross member for the engine went outside the frame for the spring mounts, J20 Axles w/lockers front and rear, alloy axles in the front, disc all around, np435 granny gear tranny, dana 300 transfer case, shorty headers two in and two out 2.5-inch flow master muffler, four-inch lift, tie rod behind the axle, etc. I am retired for 18 years and counting so things get done as money becomes available. Doesn't help that I have five other vehicles either. Hope to see some videos of that Demon at the strip!

@@stephenwest798 Yeah, i'd call you a Mopar nut, lol ... I'm a Chevy guy myself with a '72 Vette, '71 Trans Am, '79 Z28 and my latest is a '63 Impala that i want to put a Duramax in. V6 fuel mileage with big block power. If this economy doesn't turn around, i'll never finish anything. BUT, for side work, i'll do whatever comes my way and has cash backing it. I had to turn away a 2017 supercharged 5.0 litre Mustang engine because i had already started on this 505. The Muskrat video is in my shorts. Big engine jobs like this 505 don't make me much money, i don't lose, but i'm not getting rich. My favorite jobs to do are 5-valve VW/Audi cylinder heads that broke their timing belts. I bought special tools to reassemble them and shops charge tons to do them, i can under cut them by a few hundred and still pocket a lot of money doing them. My VW/Audi customers love me. My full time job just gets in my way, but that is a guaranteed living, so doing automotive work takes a back seat. I could go on and on about a business and equipment and my hate for the automotive business, but i won't bore you. I was in automotive since i was 17 and spent 23 years doing it. Mostly engine machining, building, manual transmissions, rears and towards the end i taught it all along with PCM tuning. I abandoned it all 7 years ago for a better career in building maintenance management with big companies and i'll never go back to an automotive career.

Thanks for watching the build. Yes, i will be doing the full assembly on this engine. Right now, i am taking a break to build a new, kick A**, engine stand for it (video coming soon). To answer your question, if the cap install was done correctly, the majority of the material was removed from the caps and minimal from the block and there should be no issue with alignment or leaks. Yes, it is very hard to check that on assembly and i mostly trust that my machine shop did the job correctly. I have been using this guy for 20+ years and he is well respected, i think we are good. To answer your other question, i bought a Mancini Racing billet rear main housing with poly seals, part no. MRE223. I don't f**k around with fitting and cutting rope seals. Too much wasted time making a rope seal fit and then crossing your fingers that it is good. Stay tuned, i'll be installing it soon.

First, let me say, i don't disagree and i am not arguing. I mentioned "smooth" balancing in the video or the previous video, which is what you are referencing. Its not so much a harmonic issue as it is a windage issue in the crankcase. It costs A LOT more money to do it your way and is not widely done in applications like this. Sure, there are better ways to do things, but at what expense? and what is the ultimate gain, does the gain justify the cost in the situation? I could use Swain Tech to coat all of this engine's internal parts and blow over $1k doing it, does it really matter that much with a block that is constricted to 750 horse? I'll make the threshold horsepower and not blow tons of money doing it. This engine will see 6500 RPMs at the most and not often. Hardly considered high RPMs these days as NASCAR engines turn 9000 rpm all day long at the track for hours. This is not a "race" engine and we are somewhat trying to stick to a budget and reduce costs based on the application. While i'd love to spend 1000's on it, it is limited by the block and we need to keep our heads out of the clouds. Its an 80% street / 20% 1/4 mile track engine.

I'm not sure i understand your question. But, yeah, you have problems going on .... an RB20DE, is that a Nissan engine? I assume so if you are talking about valve cover D seals. Thats an OHC thing for valve covers. Pouring coolant in the radiator shouldn't have anything to do with oil leaking out of your D seals. You have much bigger problems going on.