I've had low voltage at my coil and unable to start my 1970 'Cuda. This video brought concepts together, and was a breath of fresh air. The wiggle, trick with the ignition switch worked, and may lead to a solution. I like how it explained the centrugugal and vacuum advance methods to adjust timing to different conditions.
Hopefully you've solved the problem by now but don't forget to check the coil polarity is correct and also firing order! Simple, elusive issues that lead to perplexing problems if not approached systematically! Hope you got it running!
@@hindflight I found my problem was the power from the battery in the 1970 system comes into the ammeter gauge from its bulkhead connector. I found this gauge was bad, and bypassed it by hooking both incoming wires on the same screw. The gauge is bad, but my drain is fixed. What I did was check voltage at each connection by peeling insulation to get a good connection; voltage first coming into the bulkhead was good, and the next component was the amp gauge, which was bad, draining some voltage which affected everything else-power coming into and leaving the ignition switch going back out to the ballast resistor and + coil.
Had an interesting issue where i turned the key to OFF position as the engine turned off, the ignition switch sprang momentarily switched back to ON or run position as the engine was off. what was the issue in the end? Killed the ballast resistor and showed up as a no crank no start, confirmed that the starter was good by jumping the starter terminals with a screw driver, it cranked so at least you can do that to see if the starter is dead or not. Quite exciting as the car was dead at a local gas station with a heft of tools in the trunk to save the day, also had a spare resistor. *CARRY SPARE IGNITION PARTS* Points/condensor/Rotor/cap/ballast resistor/and maybe a spare coil.
